So i did my first boot but i quickly turned off of the pc bescuse the top of the hyper 212 evo's heat pipes were kind of crumbled or melted. Did I fry my CPU. IM REALLY SCARED TO TURN IT BACK ON. The cooler was on and I was pushing air through the copper pipes. This happened in like 5 seconds. Thanks.
hyper 212 has damaged heat pipes
- Thread starter Pc_Noob_7
- Start date
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doubletake
Honorable
- Sep 30, 2012
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What exactly are you talking about? You mean to say that the pipes no longer look like this? After having powered on your system, the pipes now look different than they did before?
There's almost no way this could happen unless the pipes were defective from the factory, so it's highly unlikely you're at fault for something like that. Please upload pics though so we can get a better idea of what your problem is.
There's almost no way this could happen unless the pipes were defective from the factory, so it's highly unlikely you're at fault for something like that. Please upload pics though so we can get a better idea of what your problem is.
Gam3r01
Titan
- Jan 12, 2013
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If you mean the tips of the heatpipes sticking out the top, then that is normal. Sometimes they get crimped/bent during manufacturing. Its how they seal the heatpipes, its not exact.
So long as they dont have any holes, or are extremely out of place they will not impact performance.
So long as they dont have any holes, or are extremely out of place they will not impact performance.
dudio
Illustrious
- Apr 26, 2015
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If youre referring to the top copper pipe looking crushed,
mine are the same. They crimp them like that, and not all are pretty.
Check out the middle right pipe in this pic..is it what you mean?
http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2007/11/cooler_master_hyper_tx2_and_212/tx2-1-8.jpg
mine are the same. They crimp them like that, and not all are pretty.
Check out the middle right pipe in this pic..is it what you mean?
http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2007/11/cooler_master_hyper_tx2_and_212/tx2-1-8.jpg
doesnt matter. its perfectly fine as the hyper 212 doesn't use phase change cooling. it relies entirely on the wick effect to transfer heat so even if the pipes were open they would still work just as well as if they were sealed. the only reason they are sealed is to stop you cutting yourself when installing.
synphul
Champion
- Mar 11, 2011
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I don't think they would work if they were open, they do rely on wicking but they also rely on the small amount of liquid inside condensing and flowing back to the base of the cooler to keep cycling. If they were open the liquid inside would soon evaporate and there would be nothing to wick, they'd just be dry pipes. Thought it was worth mentioning only because more than once I've heard people who had a 212 evo or similar cooler who ask about cutting the ends off the cooling pipes to make them fit in a case where they're slightly too large to fit with the cover panel in place.
http://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/981-how-cpu-coolers-work
I agree with MarkW there's no way a cpu would get hot enough to melt copper. The ends of the pipes typically have an odd crimp where sealed at the factory, I would look at the temps in the bios and if they look anywhere close to normal (not sure what cpu is used) it's likely fine.
http://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/981-how-cpu-coolers-work
I agree with MarkW there's no way a cpu would get hot enough to melt copper. The ends of the pipes typically have an odd crimp where sealed at the factory, I would look at the temps in the bios and if they look anywhere close to normal (not sure what cpu is used) it's likely fine.
while that link is technically correct its only actually only relevant if you mount the motherboard horizontally. that way the liquid can fall into the base of the cooler.
but when you mount the motherboard vertically the liquid will fall to the lowest point in the pipe due to the laws of physics. which means depending on which ever way you mount it you will either get no liquid contact with the part of the pipe that covers the cpu or you get less than half. so many cheaper manufacturers just dont bother filling the pipes and rely solely on the wick effect.
but when you mount the motherboard vertically the liquid will fall to the lowest point in the pipe due to the laws of physics. which means depending on which ever way you mount it you will either get no liquid contact with the part of the pipe that covers the cpu or you get less than half. so many cheaper manufacturers just dont bother filling the pipes and rely solely on the wick effect.
synphul
Champion
- Mar 11, 2011
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The pipes aren't meant to be full as in sloshing, they're only filled with a few drops. Sometimes it's water, sometimes it's a compressed gas under vacuum. If it's a compressed gas under vacuum, as soon as the pipe is opened - poof, it's gone. If it's water it's usually only damp, enough to create a wicking effect with what are usually sintered copper pipes. Nothing more than a rough surface along the interior pipe walls. Again it's usually under vacuum to reduce boiling point of the fluid, if it were standard water it would have to reach 212f/100c in order to function which isn't the case. It 'boils' at a much lower temp to create the effect inside the pipes and has nothing to do with orientation. The vapor inside the pipes will be gone and any residual moisture will evaporate leaving empty dry copper pipes which won't do squat for cooling. The people who have said manufacturers don't put anything in the pipes are likely the ones who cut the pipe open and when nothing 'spilled' out assumed there was nothing inside and don't grasp the concept of how the heatpipes actually work.
If heat pipes didn't work, air coolers using them wouldn't be as effective as they are. Dry heat pipes wouldn't work. The cpu would either heat the baseplate or the direct touch pipes, heat would transfer through the metal to air (which we all know is a poor carrier of heat) and the fan would be blowing across a warm air filled hollow copper tube. Even those who think their heatpipes were empty (and they got scammed) come back and say well it was damp inside - well of course, that's what makes the heatpipe work. It's a closed loop system similar to an aio cooler. Poke a hole in the tubing of an h100i leaving just hot air inside it with no fluid of any kind and nothing to cycle but warm air through the tubes and radiator and see how well it cools. Same idea.
Some links for further reading
https://www.google.com/search?q=inside+cpu+heat+pipes&rlz=1C1GIWA_enUS622US622&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CB4QsARqFQoTCLrH2c2X68cCFcWAkgodQwMOXw&biw=1600&bih=1067
file:///C:/Users/synphul/Downloads/ENG20110900012_55498362.pdf
http://www.electronics-cooling.com/2004/11/use-of-heat-pipe-cooling-systems-in-the-electronics-industry/
http://www.ocmodshop.com/heat-pipes-explained/
Heat pipe coolers work no better dry than an empty water cooling loop and opening the system either by cutting off the ends of the heat pipes or poking holes in the water cooler tubing will result in the same effect. Maybe if someone has a cpu they don't mind cooking and a cheapy cooler like an old 212 evo floating around they can try cutting open the tubes, mounting it up and leaving the system run. Then they can tell us how long before the system either died or shut down due to thermal overload. Not something I'll try on my components.
If heat pipes didn't work, air coolers using them wouldn't be as effective as they are. Dry heat pipes wouldn't work. The cpu would either heat the baseplate or the direct touch pipes, heat would transfer through the metal to air (which we all know is a poor carrier of heat) and the fan would be blowing across a warm air filled hollow copper tube. Even those who think their heatpipes were empty (and they got scammed) come back and say well it was damp inside - well of course, that's what makes the heatpipe work. It's a closed loop system similar to an aio cooler. Poke a hole in the tubing of an h100i leaving just hot air inside it with no fluid of any kind and nothing to cycle but warm air through the tubes and radiator and see how well it cools. Same idea.
Some links for further reading
https://www.google.com/search?q=inside+cpu+heat+pipes&rlz=1C1GIWA_enUS622US622&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CB4QsARqFQoTCLrH2c2X68cCFcWAkgodQwMOXw&biw=1600&bih=1067
file:///C:/Users/synphul/Downloads/ENG20110900012_55498362.pdf
http://www.electronics-cooling.com/2004/11/use-of-heat-pipe-cooling-systems-in-the-electronics-industry/
http://www.ocmodshop.com/heat-pipes-explained/
Heat pipe coolers work no better dry than an empty water cooling loop and opening the system either by cutting off the ends of the heat pipes or poking holes in the water cooler tubing will result in the same effect. Maybe if someone has a cpu they don't mind cooking and a cheapy cooler like an old 212 evo floating around they can try cutting open the tubes, mounting it up and leaving the system run. Then they can tell us how long before the system either died or shut down due to thermal overload. Not something I'll try on my components.
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