Question i5-13600KF acceptable temperature with custom loop

Apr 10, 2024
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Hi everyone,


I recently built a custom loop with a byski 360mm copper radiator with a thickness off 30mm and wanted to know what the acceptable temperatures are for a i5-13600KF.

My PC specs:

i5-13600KF
PNY DDR5 2x16GB 6000 MAKO (XMP enabled)
MSI Z790 Gaming Pro WiFi
EVGA RTX 2080 Ti FTW3 Ultra (air cooled)
Corsair RM1000X

I already undervolted the cpu with LLC set at 4, and a negative voltage offset on the cpu core voltage.

When using prime95 small FFT with AVX im getting around 80C on my processor at 1.170v (~170W) with a ambient temperature of 22C. I feel like this is quite hot for a custom loop or am i wrong? I already tried reseating and repasting but it did not help at all. I can’t check water temp because i do not have a sensor for it but the reservoir does not feel hot to touch.
 
Solution
Certainly some flatness issues there. Again, contact frame would be my first inexpensive choice.

You also may want to adopt a full spread thermal paste method rather than letting it spread out under pressure in the meantime.

Lapping means getting some glass (for a really flat surface), many grades of sand paper, and wet sanding the chip and potentially chill plate for a few hours. Up to you if that is worth it.
You didn't mention the block or pump, so can't really judge anything based on just the radiator size. Under a benchmark, seems fine. Only so much surface area to get rid of the heat.

Are you experiencing any high temperatures during normal use?
 
Thank you for replying, this is the cpu block and distro plate im using with a integrated pump, RPM is set at 4000:
View: https://imgur.com/a/ATovhnX


the pc works perfectly fine during normal use such as browsing. Max temp is around 36C and at idle 28C. When playing light games temps can spike up to 50 sometimes. Just during prime95 tests it reaches up to 80C max, someone else told me that i only should be getting like 50C with stock settings (no overclock)
You didn't mention the block or pump, so can't really judge anything based on just the radiator size. Under a benchmark, seems fine. Only so much surface area to get rid of the heat.

Are you experiencing any high temperatures during normal use?
 
When you say integrated pump, what kind?

I found an interior shot of that cooler, not that fancy honestly. Just a relatively thin block with machined grooves. Presumably a jet plate, but they didn't go out of their way to focus the cooling fins, they cover the entire chill plate.

I would expect it to have similar performance to high end AIO coolers based on the amount of material used.

Nothing wrong with it though and mid-50s for gaming is about right.
 
So i assume that the cpu block is holding everything back? Will getting a better cpu block improve temperatures a lot?

This is the information i found about the pump:

Rated voltage: DC12V
Working noise:<40 decibels
Rated current: 1.4A
Lift: 5-6M
Maximum speed: 4000RPM
Rated power: 17W
Flow rate: 960L/H
Life:>50000H
DC17-SDB

When you say integrated pump, what kind?

I found an interior shot of that cooler, not that fancy honestly. Just a relatively thin block with machined grooves. Presumably a jet plate, but they didn't go out of their way to focus the cooling fins, they cover the entire chill plate.

I would expect it to have similar performance to high end AIO coolers based on the amount of material used.

Nothing wrong with it though and mid-50s for gaming is about right.
 
I don't see the point. You aren't going to gain any performance lowering the temperate even 10C, maybe if you then proceeded to try boosting the clocks up a notch. If it is going full speed at 80C then you still even have some headroom for overclocking now. Just depends what you are comfortable with. I would only consider it if you planned to have the CPU running a full load all the time, and then I would question why you don't have 13900k/14900k.

I'm using a 10+ year old block on my CPU and it gets the job done on my 12700KF. Should fit LGA1816 too, so I may just keep on using it if Intel's next series of chips is worth having. I would have to replace it I think for AM5, though maybe I could get it to fit too. Slightly better design then what you have there, with cross cut machined fins and actual spots for water return and presumably excess turbulence.

You might also experiment with reducing the pump speed Faster is only better to a point and you might be able to really extend the life of the pump by slowing it down. With only the CPU in the loop, shouldn't have too much trouble keeping the water moving.
 
Well i was planning to overclock it but i will leave it as it is now. Getting a better water block for it would just be a waste of money. Anyway, thank you for helping me out!
I don't see the point. You aren't going to gain any performance lowering the temperate even 10C, maybe if you then proceeded to try boosting the clocks up a notch. If it is going full speed at 80C then you still even have some headroom for overclocking now. Just depends what you are comfortable with. I would only consider it if you planned to have the CPU running a full load all the time, and then I would question why you don't have 13900k/14900k.

I'm using a 10+ year old block on my CPU and it gets the job done on my 12700KF. Should fit LGA1816 too, so I may just keep on using it if Intel's next series of chips is worth having. I would have to replace it I think for AM5, though maybe I could get it to fit too. Slightly better design then what you have there, with cross cut machined fins and actual spots for water return and presumably excess turbulence.

You might also experiment with reducing the pump speed Faster is only better to a point and you might be able to really extend the life of the pump by slowing it down. With only the CPU in the loop, shouldn't have too much trouble keeping the water moving.
 
Hi, today i decided to take my loop apart and when opening the cpu block i noticed there was some gunk inside but it wasn't that much. The hole from the jet plate where the water flows through looks kinda small to me.

QFrrMZI.jpeg


When you say integrated pump, what kind?

I found an interior shot of that cooler, not that fancy honestly. Just a relatively thin block with machined grooves. Presumably a jet plate, but they didn't go out of their way to focus the cooling fins, they cover the entire chill plate.

I would expect it to have similar performance to high end AIO coolers based on the amount of material used.

Nothing wrong with it though and mid-50s for gaming is about right.
 
It is actually really wide by comparison to what you generally see. Since there it little depth the jet plate is doing all the flow routing. The reason for the large inlet I assume is the direction of the fins. Water comes in, hits the fins and has little way to go perpendicular to the fins, so that channel in the middle is the only path back to the outlet.

Still, not encouraging to see that level of junk build up already.
 
It is actually really wide by comparison to what you generally see. Since there it little depth the jet plate is doing all the flow routing. The reason for the large inlet I assume is the direction of the fins. Water comes in, hits the fins and has little way to go perpendicular to the fins, so that channel in the middle is the only path back to the outlet.

Still, not encouraging to see that level of junk build up already.
Would getting a different CPU waterblock make a difference?
 
A small difference. Not something that is worth the expense unless you are trying to push the CPU to its absolute limits.
Okay thank you, i have tried every single thing i could and this cpu literally hits 80C with prime95 small fft avx off. It’s way higher compared to others with this processor. Funny thing is that it only hits 150-160w at 1.142v which is not even the rated power of this specific cpu..
 
Okay thank you, i have tried every single thing i could and this cpu literally hits 80C with prime95 small fft avx off. It’s way higher compared to others with this processor. Funny thing is that it only hits 150-160w at 1.142v which is not even the rated power of this specific cpu..

Your first post was saying 170W, so something changed.

Contact frame might help a few degrees. Could also be a less than perfect cooler surface. You may also have a very high convex CPU IHS that requires lapping.

I have a Bykski water block for my 3080Ti, had to replace it almost immediately as I wasn't able to get any pressure and temperatures were not much better than the EVGA air cooler. Switched to an EK block and had zero issues. Just not sure I can trust them again, their quality control may be quite lax.
 
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Your first post was saying 170W, so something changed.

Contact frame might help a few degrees. Could also be a less than perfect cooler surface. You may also have a very high convex CPU IHS that requires lapping.

I have a Bykski water block for my 3080Ti, had to replace it almost immediately as I wasn't able to get any pressure and temperatures were not much better than the EVGA air cooler. Switched to an EK block and had zero issues. Just not sure I can trust them again, their quality control may be quite lax.
yes i forgot to mention that i managed to get a stable undervolt (lower voltage then before). I never had a custom loop before this but byski their radiators are actually good for the price. Not sure about their other products though.. it’s just so strange to see some people with a AIO getting better thermals then me, even with overclocks. Do you think that lapping the IHS would make a big difference? I was thinking to delid the cpu but not sure if its really worth it.
 
Lapping would only be worth it if you can prove your IHS or CPU cooler aren't properly mating. One test is to take the CPU out and try spinning it on a flat surface. It should not spin, if it does that means it is very convex. It can also be very concave where the middle isn't touching. You kind of just have to eye ball the thermal paste and see if there is less pressure happening in the center. However, recent tests have shown that some convexness is good, because the CPU retention bracket actually sucks the middle down.

A contact frame evens that pressure out and stiffens the motherboard, which can bend under the pressure of some coolers.

As to some AIO performing better, they may have better cold plate designs. Superior fans, and radiators combined.

I use Alphacool and XSPC copper radiators, haven't had any issues. My old Swiftech Apogee XL CPU block is still in use. I like big tubes, so I use 13mm/10mm tubing on XSPC compression fittings, with a D5 variant pump (alphacool).

Generally I am quite happy with a CPU that stays under 80C. My old 7700k running 5Ghz at 1.419 volts would hit the low 80s after saturation. But I was torturing that thing. Before delidding, one core ran about 10 degrees hotter which was the main concern. I got that down to 3 degree difference after reapplying thermal compound, not liquid metal. If all of your cores are roughly the same temperature, than there likely isn't a problem there. Liquid metal is an option, but that has its own dangers. I don't recommend thermal compound under the IHS on newer Intel chips. The extra cores make that even riskier.

Delidding is a last resort. I've only done it once, but also during the era of thermal compound rather than solder TIM.

I don't think any change is worth it unless you just want the experience of doing it.
 
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Lapping would only be worth it if you can prove your IHS or CPU cooler aren't properly mating. One test is to take the CPU out and try spinning it on a flat surface. It should not spin, if it does that means it is very convex. It can also be very concave where the middle isn't touching. You kind of just have to eye ball the thermal paste and see if there is less pressure happening in the center. However, recent tests have shown that some convexness is good, because the CPU retention bracket actually sucks the middle down.

A contact frame evens that pressure out and stiffens the motherboard, which can bend under the pressure of some coolers.

As to some AIO performing better, they may have better cold plate designs. Superior fans, and radiators combined.

I use Alphacool and XSPC copper radiators, haven't had any issues. My old Swiftech Apogee XL CPU block is still in use. I like big tubes, so I use 13mm/10mm tubing on XSPC compression fittings, with a D5 variant pump (alphacool).

Generally I am quite happy with a CPU that stays under 80C. My old 7700k running 5Ghz at 1.419 volts would hit the low 80s after saturation. But I was torturing that thing. Before delidding, one core ran about 10 degrees hotter which was the main concern. I got that down to 3 degree difference after reapplying thermal compound, not liquid metal. If all of your cores are roughly the same temperature, than there likely isn't a problem there. Liquid metal is an option, but that has its own dangers. I don't recommend thermal compound under the IHS on newer Intel chips. The extra cores make that even riskier.

Delidding is a last resort. I've only done it once, but also during the era of thermal compound rather than solder TIM.

I don't think any change is worth it unless you just want the experience of doing it.
I find the older generation processors much easier to overclock etc.. I was able to get my 9700K at 5.1Ghz easily but those new ones already run crazy hot out of the box. I probably won’t consider delidding but i will take a look at the cpu tomorrow and keep you posted. Thank you for all the help.
 
Lapping would only be worth it if you can prove your IHS or CPU cooler aren't properly mating. One test is to take the CPU out and try spinning it on a flat surface. It should not spin, if it does that means it is very convex. It can also be very concave where the middle isn't touching. You kind of just have to eye ball the thermal paste and see if there is less pressure happening in the center. However, recent tests have shown that some convexness is good, because the CPU retention bracket actually sucks the middle down.

A contact frame evens that pressure out and stiffens the motherboard, which can bend under the pressure of some coolers.

As to some AIO performing better, they may have better cold plate designs. Superior fans, and radiators combined.

I use Alphacool and XSPC copper radiators, haven't had any issues. My old Swiftech Apogee XL CPU block is still in use. I like big tubes, so I use 13mm/10mm tubing on XSPC compression fittings, with a D5 variant pump (alphacool).

Generally I am quite happy with a CPU that stays under 80C. My old 7700k running 5Ghz at 1.419 volts would hit the low 80s after saturation. But I was torturing that thing. Before delidding, one core ran about 10 degrees hotter which was the main concern. I got that down to 3 degree difference after reapplying thermal compound, not liquid metal. If all of your cores are roughly the same temperature, than there likely isn't a problem there. Liquid metal is an option, but that has its own dangers. I don't recommend thermal compound under the IHS on newer Intel chips. The extra cores make that even riskier.

Delidding is a last resort. I've only done it once, but also during the era of thermal compound rather than solder TIM.

I don't think any change is worth it unless you just want the experience of doing it.
Hi, i disassembled the cpu block today and took the cpu out to test what you told me to do. I did not notice any spinning but i can see that the thermalpaste did not cover the whole cpu. When placing the IHS on a flat surface you can see that its slightly lifted.
Here are the images
 
Certainly some flatness issues there. Again, contact frame would be my first inexpensive choice.

You also may want to adopt a full spread thermal paste method rather than letting it spread out under pressure in the meantime.

Lapping means getting some glass (for a really flat surface), many grades of sand paper, and wet sanding the chip and potentially chill plate for a few hours. Up to you if that is worth it.
 
Solution
Certainly some flatness issues there. Again, contact frame would be my first inexpensive choice.

You also may want to adopt a full spread thermal paste method rather than letting it spread out under pressure in the meantime.

Lapping means getting some glass (for a really flat surface), many grades of sand paper, and wet sanding the chip and potentially chill plate for a few hours. Up to you if that is worth it.
I will take a look at it, might consider delidding it instead of lapping the IHS. I have been using a contact frame since day one but did not seem to improve a lot. Anyway, thank you for informing me.