i5 6600K overclocking advise to 4.6Ghz

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Crofighter88

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Feb 13, 2016
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Hi all

i just upgraded my pc and need some info.
i've been reading many threads, But never found the answer i was looking for

i have :
Intel i5 6600k Skylake
Gigabyte z170x GAMING 3
16gb DDR4 @ 2666mhz
cooler : H100i (with sp120 Quiet edition fans)
GTX 980 Strix (overclocked it)
250Gb SSD + 2x1TB HDD (no raid)
coolermast 850w power supply

the stock cpu is 3.5Ghz , boost 3.9Ghz

So this is what i did to overclock it :

i adjusted the multiplier to 44 and and it is stable without adjusting the voltages
i used prime95 for couple hours, and had no issues

now i wanted to try to go to 4.6 /4.7 if possible

when i tried 4.6 , i got a blue screen
so i adjusted the vcore to 1.350 . got in windows and tested it with Prime95
i stopped prime95 after half-hour because one core stopped working.. (rest was still testing)

i"ve read that u need to increase the vcore to go further
so i raised the vcore to 1.4v
when running prime95 , one core still stopped working

Im kinda afraid to push it over 1.4V since i want to use my CPU daily


So what do i need to do get it stable?

When i put the multiplier to 45 with 1.4V , i have a stable overclock

The max temperture i had on my CPU is 63 C (145F)


grtz

Cro


 
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You should be able to run at 4.5 GHz on 1.36 V (tested this with Prime95 v28.9 build 2 for one hour). If it doesn't give you a perfect test result, try 1.37 V but you definitely don't need (and shouldn't) stay at 1.4 V. Every bit counts.
 
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I agree. I have mine (i5 6600K) at 4.4GHz on 1.29 V fully stable (Prime95 28.9 build 2 for over one hour) air cooled (Cooler Master Hyper 212 X) with medium fan action. This seems to be the ideal overclock for the CPU. I can get 4.5 GHz stable at 1.36 V but what a jump to gain a puny 100 MHz. It's really not worth it and showing that the CPU performance improvement is starting to diminish far too much to be beneficial. The extra heat makes the fans spin crazy and the whole rig becomes far too noisy. I have seen guys mentioning 4.6 GHz but I really wonder for what practical result? I plan on keeping the thing for around 3 years, not killing it within 3 months ;-)...
 
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Hi,

Sorry for english,

Look in 113 page

http://

If this right , you can put 1,52 voltage . But we must understand about accuracy of voltage regulator ,so probably it is about 5-10% of max voltage , so put more than 1,365-1.444 risky...
 
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The reason you get cores ("workers") stopping on prime95 is primarily because of problems with performance (delays) in accessing the memory (resulting in rounding errors). To speed up the processor's memory access, go back to the BIOS (press the "DEL" key repeatedly to get in), and set FCLK to 1GHz (the top setting, from 800 KHz) and enable "Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.)" to "Profile 1" (this may be the only one of the two profiles available) and leave everything else (except see what to do for the memory OC below) pretty much on the default value (as per the booklet of documentation that comes with the motherboard or 'mobo' for short - good to check this out too). It may not seem like much but this way I am getting my i5 6600K (Intel Core i5 6600K Skylake-S 3.5GHz 6MB No HSF Retail Box) at 4.5 GHz (multiplier set to 45) with a VCore of only 1.35 V (CPUID HWMonitor shows package Temp. gets to 59 C, power at around 90 W max. and CPU VCore at 1.344 V max.) with a cheap air cooler (no expensive water cooling here).

So I get low consumption and low heat (temp. stays way below 70 C), but preferably don't use EasyTune6 (inaccurate), go to the BIOS directly (finding the parameters is easy) - use Esc = back and F10 = Save/Exit. For 1.46 GHz I guess (never tried) you would need to set VCore at 1.41 V (+ 6 mV) but it's not worth it for an extra puny 100 MHz that you would never notice. I would not go over 1.35 V (ever) for a "daily" PC as I plan to use the processor for 3 to 5 years, not to fry it in 3 to 5 months ;-). Going from 3.5 GHz to 4.5 GHz is already a paltry 28.5% increase (let's not be greedy here) and with the memory boost detailed above, the difference is very visible (boot time went down noticeably too) and it is extremely visible of course on benchmarks (Valley, Heaven, Aida64, OCCT, Cinebench, SteamVR, Faceworks, MSI stress engine and others - even timing prime95 itself).

About cooling (very important), the case (Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Black Mid Tower w/Side Panel) has 8 fans - one 92mm Noctua (NF-B9 92mm Redux Ed. PWM) exhaust full speed all the time (at the back with double-sided tape), the others all linked to the mobo sharing the 3 headers (SYS FAN1 - 2 - 3) by type. Most of the exhaust work is done at the back top end by 2 really smooth Corsair ML140 (140mm Mag-Lev SP - Static Pressure) that can go up to 2000 RPM (I observed 1,450 RPM max. in my rig) with three 140mmm Thermaltake Riing SP (top, bottom, front disc bay), one 140mm "quiet" Corsair front (Corsair AF140 140mm Quiet Edition Blue LED) positioned vertical because it is a sleeve bearing fan, and one 140 mm Fractal "silent" (top). The Noctua at the back (on the card slots left without their cover to suck the hot air out) is paired with a 120mm Thermaltake Riing SP inside constantly running at its top 1500 RPM speed and facing back towards the graphics cards, 50/50 top/bottom of the top card which tends to be hotter by being heated by the bottom card (works like a dream).

Here is a PICTURE of the inside showing the position/speed/CFM of the fans: http://imageshack.com/a/img923/3196/PjaqTS.png

All the perforated grilles of the case have been cut out with sharp pliers (hole by hole ;-) - even gave me some "RSI" in the wrist - slow process) around the edges of the exhaust fans (enabling free access), including the same for the intake of the Corsair RM650x 650W 80PLUS Gold Modular PSU and other intake fans like those at the bottom and at the top of the case (the dust filters are still used over the intake fans for the dust of course). All intake fans are forced to take exclusively external air (not uselessly re-stirring hot internal air) with self-adhesive (common house window-seal from a local hardware store) foam fitted tight all around their outside edges. A plastic separator is used to separate the cool air intake (at the front) from the hot air exhaust (at the back) of the two SP fans at the top of the CPU (both at the top panel of the case)

Similarly, all exhaust fans are forced to extract exclusively air from the inside of the case (not uselessly pumping anything from the outside) using duct tape to close all the unwanted openings of the case. So there are 7 more fans inside (one for PSU), one 120 mm Thermaltake Riing SP (fixed to the top of the disk bay with two 25mm nickel brackets from the local hardware store) paired with the Noctua for the graphics cards (facing each other - although not exactly on the same level - mostly to extract the hot air accumulating between the two cards which are only a few cm apart for the SLI link), two per graphics card (by design), one 120mm Thermaltake SP and the CPU has one with a heatsink (Cooler Master Hyper 212 X). The whole 15 (8+7) fans are rarely working all at the same time because the air flow and distribution are very efficient, so the quietness is remarkable (just a little swish...) and the cooling really effective (2 to 5 C above ambient temp. at all time). All airflow was optimised one fan at a time (time well spent).

Most motherboards come with two CPU_FAN headers for 4-pin PWM fans. "Two" (2) because it is often needed for a water cooling radiator. So as I don't use water cooling, I connected my CPU cooler's fan to one of them (CPU_FAN1 - No. 9 on my picture) and the parallel exhaust fan (at the top back of the case - No. 7 on my picture) to the other one (CPU_FAN2), as it's also a 4-pin PWM fan (such a fan is not that expensive, and well worth it). This way when the CPU heats up and its cooler fan's (No. 9) speed increases, so does the speed of the case exhaust fan (No. 7) directly parallel at the back. It's a great way to extract excess heat from the case at the precise time it builds up and significantly helps the CPU cooler lower the CPU temp., resulting in both fans spinning at a matching but not equal speed (different fans working in tandem). The light roaring itself, as the CPU starts working harder, is great to hear.

The three disks (WD VelociRaptor 500 GB <last year> [10000RPM 6Gb/s] - WD Raptor 160 GB <older> [10000RPM 3Gb/s] - Samsung 850 EVO Series 2.5" 7mm 250GB SSD <newer>) show max. temps of 27 C - 33 C - 25 C respectively. The ASUS DRW-24D5MT 24x Black SATA DVD Writer OEM and ORICO 6-in-1 3.5" Internal Card Reader are not used most of the time. A ORICO USB3.0 4 Port PCIe Expansion Card was used to add 4 USB 3.0 outlets for my four disks to a total of 13 TB (Seagate Expansion 3.5 inch USB 3.0 at 7200 RPM). I use two extra 2TB portable drives on the USB 3.0 outlets located at the front of the case and connect them only as required. A lot of duct tape (black) was used to streamline all cables (especially from the two graphics cards) and ensure unobstructed airflow throughout. A good, neat cable management is also important even if nobody can see it at the back or opaque side panel. Then I took over 30 High Res. pictures of the whole thing. That way I can view every inch of the internals without having to open the case to check/make sure of something (like to further improve).

For the memory OC (2 X Kingston 8GB Kit DDR4 HyperX Fury C14 2133MHz), I go from 2,133 MHz to 3,000 MHz with the CAS at 14, tRCD at 16, tRP at 16, and tRAS at 28 (14 16 16 28). These settings come from optimised tests (with serious analysis and results) found on the internet at HWDB: http://hw-db.com/memory/2687/hyperx-hx421c14fbk2-16-review/2. The CAS (the first parameter like C14 - Column Address Strobe) is the most important one to watch for. That's why memory chips with C16 are often cheaper. All this runs perfectly stable on prime95 (v 28.9 build 2) for over 2 hours which is largely enough (one hour should be sufficient - it is a very demanding test). The mobo is a Gigabyte Z170XP SLI LGA1151 DDR4 ATX "Ultra Durable" (so they say). Just make sure to have: Memory Timing Mode - click Enter and again on Manual [] Channel Interleaving - click Enter and again on Enabled [] Rank Interleaving - click Enter and again on Enabled (Enabling Interleaving will ensure the same settings on the two A and B mem. channels) [] Memory Boot Mode - click Enter and again on Normal (safer mode) [] Channel A Memory Sub Timings - click Enter (check that the memory timing mode is already on Manual). In the end I set them on C15 17 17 28 with tCmd (Command Rate CR) at "1 T" under 1.30 V, perfectly stable (even already under 1.28 V).

By the way temperature control is very important for me because I also overclocked the two graphics cards [2x MSI GeForce GTX970 Gaming 4GB PEAK GDDR5 2xDVI HDMI in SLI - always above 60 fps at Ultra settings] by having them set to GPU - 1501 MHz and DDR5 MEM - 4001 MHz (each) with the following parameters: Core Voltage +0 (left as is - for no risk of damage) - Power Unit (%) 100 (Priority set down --> to Temp.) - Temp. Unit (C) 79 - Core Clock (MHz) +147 - Memory Clock (MHz) +496 - Fan Speed (%) Auto (red background). The temp. varies between 64 C and 65 C max. all the time with the card fans below 50 % (around 1000 RPM). This GPU setup can go higher (I can easily get the GPU at 1600 MHz but 1501 is enough). When running at full power (99-100 %) they consume an extra 150 W each. The PC itself uses 150 W, so all in all it comes to just above 450 W total. It is important to know because the whole rig runs out of a 550 W UPS with a good reserve for around 20 min. but set to gracefully shut-down when only 5 min. of juice is left in it (plenty of time)

Lighting is red for inside (case, MSI graphics cards and fans) and all exhaust fans except the Noctua (light grey), blue for outside and air intake. Total cost USD 2,200, AUD 2,950 (I was on a budget). The network cable (ALOGIC CAT6 3m Blue) is largely sufficient. A high speed HDMI cable ensures perfect pictures on the Dell Hi-Res monitor. Have fun my friend, life is very short indeed.
 
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You are welcome - by the way, I added a couple more details I thought about (like some of my sources) and... my posts are not always this long ;-).
All the very best with your (safe) OC,

Philippe, Western Australia (...where it often gets very hot)
 
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Our weather is clement - heat record is 38.2 dgr C while the opposite figure is -53.3 dgr C. If you take a leak outdoors in such a temperature the stream freezes before reaching the ground ... 🙂
 
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i'm not sure about this but i'm a previous user for i7-3770K stable clock to low 4.2GHz fulltime.. with only 600W 80+ PSU load with 650 Ti boost..
now my mobo have problem, i'm selling off the CPU and going to purchase i5-6600K with gigabyte Gaming 5.
i will try to get up to 4.4Ghz with bottle neck PSU that supporting 980Ti Xtreme.

however, try to check the limitation on certain ROG forum so that you can achieve 4.7GHz. IMO, take it easy. 😛
 
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The important settings to make sure of:

Manually set your RAM to stock
CPU All Core: 4.7ghz
Cache Ratio: 3.5ghz
CPU Amplitutde: 1000
CPU PLL ORT: Disabled
FCLK Frequency: 1GHZ

CPU Voltage mode: Fixed
CPU Voltage: 1.330v
LLC: Level 1 (flattest for my board, take into account different companies have the levels at different spots)
DRAM: 1.2v
VCCIO 0.950v
VCC PLL: 1.200v
VCCSA: 1.050v
CPU Internal PLL: 0.900v
 
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EXPLANATION
---------------------
-- UNCORE (= 'not core', 'not CPU'... like cache for example) is easy to set. This post is valid for Skylake 6600k / 6700k on any motherboard (Gigabyte, Asus, etc.). Among other things, the Uncore Ratio relates to the frequency of the cache used by the CPU. And you have to manually set the Uncore Ratio in the BIOS of the motherboard because it remains stuck at the stock ratio of 35 (3.5 GHz) even after you have overclocked the CPU Clock Ratio way above that. To do this my Gigabyte Z170XP-SLI motherboard WRONGLY indicates to set the Uncore Ratio equal to or higher than CPU clock ratio. Why wrongly?

-- Think about it. The cache is a slave sub-process working for the CPU core master process that it is meant to assist by temporarily storing transient CPU data. Understandably, if you make the slave faster than its master, it will cause problems (!). So the BIOS should rather indicate to “set the Uncore ratio equal to or LOWER than CPU Clock Ratio”. That’s why it is perfectly stable when you leave it at its stock ratio of 35 (3.5 GHz) even after you have overclocked the CPU Clock ratio way above that (the Uncore Ratio is then much LOWER than the CPU Clock ratio). But then the cache (slave) lags considerably behind and puts a brake on the CPU (master) which is then badly in need of an assistant that can keep up with its much higher overclocked ratio. The master has no time to wait for the slave… which leads to timing problems. Doesn’t this make a lot more sense?

-- At stock values, both the CPU ratio and the Uncore ratio are set at 35 (3.5 GHz) and that’s very stable as, being that low, the frequency remains stable within tolerances. But after overclocking, the frequency starts to vary a lot more and the Uncore (slave) ratio can briefly peak (too much) above the CPU (master) ratio which often causes a blue screen with (of course) a timing error like “CLOCK_WATCHDOG_TIMEOUT”. At 4.5 GHz, my CPU Clock varies between 4495 and 4504 (not perfectly 4500). To avoid it, simply set the Uncore Ratio just ONE NOTCH BELOW (as often with overclocking) the CPU Clock Ratio. For example, if your CPU Clock Ratio = 45 (4.5 GHz), then set Uncore Ratio = 44 (one under). That way the Uncore Ratio will always stay BELOW the CPU Clock Ratio.

CONCLUSION
-- Having reached a stable overclock with all green after 2 H on Prime95, boost performance by setting the Uncore Ratio just ONE NOTCH BELOW the CPU Clock Ratio you reached. For example, at a stable CPU Clock Ratio = 45 (4.5 GHz), set Uncore Ratio = 44 (one under). It has "some" (not a lot of) benefits concerning performance, voltages, and power (= temp.)

Additional note: - A 1:1 ratio between CPU freq. / Cache freq. raises temp a little and only slightly reduces memory latency (1 to 4 %) the higher the memory frequency goes above 2133 MHz (2333 - 2666 - 3200 - 4000MHz). So keep cache freq. slightly below CPU freq. if temp is really a problem, otherwise aim for a 1:1 ratio (every bit of performance is worth it IMO).
 
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With a CPU Clock Ratio at 47 (4.7 GHz), you'd better set your Uncore Ratio (Cache Ratio) at 46 (4.6 GHz) and don't forget to set your X.M.P. to Profile 1 (or Profile 2 if available) - your DRAM should probably be at 1.35 V but I don't have enough specific details for that. I wouldn't bother with VCCIO and VCCSA as the board's rules should take good care of them (dynamically). Even though, 4.7 GHz is quite high for a 6600K, and 1.330 V CPU Voltage (VCore I presume) is very low to be stable at that frequency. Did you successfully (all green) run Prime95 for at least 2 H on this setting? You must have good water cooling or something...
 
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This is an excellent result ;-)
 
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I did see tests at 1.52 V, even 1.60 V but only for a lab experiment. And it works fine with a super efficient (read "expensive") water cooling system (like liquid nitrogen). Some people talk about "the road to 5 GHz for 6600K" (!). When Intel say 1.52 V they still have deducted a 5% allowance down from 1.60 V, the absolute theoretical max. However, this is not to last and practically not even feasible with common retail air or even water cooling.

For everyday use, the max of this CPU is for me 4.5 / 4.6 GHz on a VCore value of around 1.35 V (some lucky ones can achieve this on around 1.30 V) as set manually (keep away from "Auto") in the BIOS (a CPU VCore of 1.356 V Max is shown in CPUID HWMonitor) - CPU Clock Ratio at 46 (=4.6 GHz) with the Uncore Ratio (cache) at 45 (one less than CPU) or even 46 (i.e. a 1:1 ratio) if your temps are well under control - FCLK at [1 GHz] - the "Internal (on-chip) Graphics" Disabled (too wasteful when using a GPU card).

You don't need to touch much else (other than Memory OC and LLC - Load Line Calibration - for voltage stability) as the MoBo's rules will take care of it dynamically - been there, done that, and came back (potentially dangerous exercise).

Whacking on it a full GHz (from 3.5 to 4.5) is already adding over 25 %. Max temps should be kept below 75 C ideally (under 80 C in most situations) for everyday use even if not left "ON" the whole day. This is all perfectly safe as the mobo will automatically shut down the entire rig if you stay too long above CPU Package temp (the highest core temp) of 85 C to protect the CPU. So the ultimate limit is the temp (the heat), not the voltage, not the current, not the VRM, ...not anything else really.
 
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It's on an Cryorig H7 air cooler, and it's perfectly stable. I thought about upping the cache ratio, but decided against it. not a lot of benefit for the effort. The ram runs at 1.2v, and is stable. I've already manually set it, i'm letting the previous posters know what settings worked at 4.7
 
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"not a lot of benefit for the effort"... are you sure about that... total cumulated effort amounts to a magnitude of approximately 2 min. ...once ever. And when you write "and is stable", did you get a 2 H Prime95 (latest version) all green? Your RAM could probably be overclocked too by going over 1.20 V. This can increase overall performance significantly.
 
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I prime overnight, so much longer than 8h. Overclocking is not a 2min job. You test out each setting on the way up, not 1 and done, and many guides have shown that 1000mhz on the cache is equivalent in performance to 100mhz on the cpu. Cache overclocks also make core overclocks less stable, so I'd prefer a 4.7/3.5 to a 4.5/4.5

RAM is much more fragile than a CPU, and thus I don't like to overclock it. Some people do, some people are comfortable with it, some people think it's durable, I don't. It takes a lot to kill a CPU, it takes a little bit of heat to kill RAM.
 
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Priming overnight is what most people do, only a few nerds sit staring at the screen for 10 hours with glary eyes. I also test in the background during the day, while downloading for example and on the way up, down and horizontal if requiredl. You are right, it’s definitely not a 2 min. job like just raising your cache freq. (Uncore Ratio) from 3.5 to 4.6 GHz which you probably haven't even tried (!). As a consultant I am used to valuing my time and keeping track of it. I spent already over 163 hours on my 6600K overclock since last April (not finished yet), and not just on the CPU Clock Ratio, as you know, also on the cache and on the memory (tCL, tRCD, tRP, tRAS, and CR) and other timings, then the BCLK, FCLK, X.M.P., VCCIO, VCCSA, PCH and most other parameters.

For primary timings (CAS, tRCD, tRP and tRAS), the minimal stable values depend primarily on the memory frequency with voltage playing a secondary role in the borderline areas. However, on Skylake you also have to keep in mind that tRCD must be equal to tRP at all times and that the minimal tRAS value one can set in the BIOS is 28.

I suppose you haven’t considered looking into any of those if you haven’t even done something as basic as raising the cache frequency. Just customising and studying the airflow/temp./pressure in the case (with smoke/an infrared temp. meter./pressure gauges, etc.) took me 23 hours (15 fans) and that is not done overnight… lying in bed. When you write “many guides” I would consider that to be around 6 (it has to be at least 2, technically). I’d really like you to give us the full list so that we can have a thorough read through it all.

Mind you, I wasn’t aware that 1 GHz on the cache, like going from 3.5 to 4.5 GHz is equivalent in performance to a full 100 MHz on the CPU, like going from 4.6 to 4.7 GHz which is really great (and totally unexpected). I was more thinking about a few nanoseconds saved here and there without voltage override, but this is a pleasant surprise given that (from my experience) setting the cache freq. also slightly lowers the package power consumption (W) and therefore the temps. Cache overclock at 4.5/4.5 IS UNstable (don’t bother) as the cache freq. has to remain lower than the CPU freq. at a high overclock because the freq. becomes somewhat 'jittery'. It can be 'equal' at a much lower freq. like the stock freq. 3.5/3.5 (as when you buy it).

So personally I’d much prefer 4.7/4.6 now, especially after what you wrote. With low CPU temps. that should be a great overclock.

RAM is more fragile than a CPU, agreed, although DDR4 (and even more DDR5) is not as flimsy as you seem to portray it (<<a little bit of heat…>>). As for <<it takes a lot to kill a CPU>>… try me. I killed a few since I got my dual B. Sc. (Hons) European degree in both Computer Science and Electronics a few decades ago. My first one was a Motorola 68000 (m68k) in the early '80s.

Memory chips are perfectly OK if you stay within the official voltage/temp. tolerances (as tested in labs) while increasing the frequency. That’s why it doesn’t void the warranty (3 full years on my Kingston !). If the frequency is too high, it won’t be stable, that’s all (no drama). You don’t “kill RAM” with higher frequency settings (!).
 
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The only settings I personally applied to run at a very safe 4.6 GHz by setting VCore to 1.355 V in the BIOS are:

----For the CPU:
[1]-CPU VCore at 1.355 V,
[2]-CPU Core Ratio at 46,
[3]-Uncore Ratio at 45,
[4]-FCLK at 1 GHz,
[5]-Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.) on "Profile 1",
[6]-PCH at Auto
[7]-CPU VCore Loadline Calibration (LLC) on High, and
[8]-Internal Graphics Disabled (using graphics cards instead).
and
-----For the memory:
[9]- System Memory Multiplier (32),
[10]-CAS Latency (15),
[11]-tRCD (17),
[12]-tRP (17),
[13]-tRAS (28),
[14]-DRAM Voltage (CH A/B) 1.30 V (from 1.28 V stable to ensure increased stability), and
[15]-Memory Enhancement Settings to "Relax OC"
[16]-Command Rate (tCMD) 1.

---------> All the other settings are left on their default value (see below).

Below are all the settings as listed in the BIOS:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Advanced Frequency Settings
Performance Upgrade Auto
CPU Base Clock Auto
Graphics Slice Ratio Auto
Graphics Unslice Ratio Auto
CPU Upgrade Auto
CPU Clock Ratio 46 <----------------- [2]
FCLK Frequency For Early Power 1 GHz <----------------- [4]
Advanced CPU Settings
- Repeat
- Repeat
Uncore Ratio 45 <----------------- [3]
CPU Flex Override Disabled
Intel Turbo Boost Technology Auto
Turbo Ratio (1-4 Core) Auto
Package Power Limit
-- to --
Number Of Cores Enabled All Auto
CPU Enhanced Halt (C1E)
-- to --
C8 State Support All Enabled
Package C-State Limit
-- to --
CPU EIST Function All Auto
Residency State Reg. (RSR)
-- to --
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetch All Enabled
Extreme Memory Profile (X.M.P.) Profile 1 <----------------- [5]
System Memory Multiplier 32.00 <----------------- [9]
Advanced Memory Settings
- Repeat
- Repeat
Memory Boot Mode Auto
Memory Enhancement Settings Relax OC <----------------- [15]
Memory Timing Mode Manual
Memory Multiplier Tweaker Auto
Channel Interleaving Enabled
Rank Interleaving Enabled
IMC Timing Settings All Unchanged
Channel A Memory Sub Timings
- Repeat
- Repeat
CAS Latency 15 <----------------- [10]
tRCD 17 <----------------- [11]
tRP 17 <----------------- [12]
tRAS 28 <----------------- [13]
Channel A Advanced Timing Control
Unchanged Except
Command Rate (tCMD) 1 <----------------- [16]
Channel B Memory Sub Timings
- Repeat
- Repeat
All Unchanged
Advanced Voltage Settings
Advanced Power Settings
CPU VCore Loadline Calib. High <----------------- [7]
VAXG Loadline Calibration Auto
CPU Core Voltage Control
CPU VCore 1.355V <----------------- [1]
CPU Graphics Voltage (VAXG) Auto
CPU VCCIO Auto
CPU System Agent Voltage Auto
CPU Core PLL Overvoltage Auto
Chipset Voltage Control
PCH Core Auto <----------------- [6]
DRAM Voltage Control
DRAM Voltage (CH A/B) 1.34 V <----------------- [14]
DRAM Training Voltage (A/B) Auto
DDRVPP Voltage (CH A/B) Auto
DRAM Termination (CH A/B) Auto
Internal VR Control All Unchanged
BIOS Features All Unchanged
Peripherals All Unchanged
Chipset Unchanged Except
Internal Graphics Disabled <----------------- [8]
Power Management All Unchanged
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Readings at Idle / Under Load (22C ambient):
CPU Vcore - 1.356V / 1.344V
Package Temp. - 30C / 56C
Package Power - 15W / 59W
--------------------------------------
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 X (single fan)
Case: Fractal Design Arc Midi R2 Black Mid Tower w/Side Panel Window (rather large so as to fit graphic cards in SLI).
Graphics: 2 x MSI GTX 970 in SLI mode both overclocked at 1501 MHz and with their DDR5 Memory set at 4001 MHz (each).
The rig is totally stable on all tests available on Prime95 (v 28.9 build 2) - Cinebench R15 gives a score of 766-767 constantly.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Note that I didn't disable Turbo Boost because when I tried this, it didn't give me as good a performance (speed, power, temp.)
Both VCCIO and the System Agent Voltage (VCCSA) seem to be set at 1.25 V automatically by the MoBo rules.
Here is a picture of the inside of my rig showing the position of the 15 fans: http://imageshack.com/a/img923/3196/PjaqTS.png
 
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I am running my 6600K at 4.6 GHz after setting VCore at 1.355 V in the BIOS. Temps are max. 54C under heavy load with a cheap single fan air cooler. So it can be done with the right mix of parameters... and an average chip.
 
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