Seems like I remember my dual core C2D CPUs idling in the mid 30Cs. What are you using to read temps? Try RealTemp. Then run the cores at 100% usage with Intel Burn Test at the default settings. See what the load temps are.
Are you sure you got the cooler's push-pins in securely? If you can see the back of the board, check that the white fingers are spread properly and the black pin is all the way thru the white part.
Seems like I remember my dual core C2D CPUs idling in the mid 30Cs. What are you using to read temps? Try RealTemp. Then run the cores at 100% usage with Intel Burn Test at the default settings. See what the load temps are.
Are you sure you got the cooler's push-pins in securely? If you can see the back of the board, check that the white fingers are spread properly and the black pin is all the way thru the white part.
If one post is not held securely, YES. That would be keep the heat sink from mating tightly to the CPU's heat spreader. Heat transfer will suffer.Came home from school and decided to test it with RealTemp and Intel Burn Test, the 1st CPU Core went even to 99°C and the 2nd CPU Core went up to 92°C !!!!
I really do think that it's because of that white broken pin which causes the cooler to move a bit.
If one post is not held securely, YES. That would be keep the heat sink from mating tightly to the CPU's heat spreader. Heat transfer will suffer.
Is your PC a pre-built or custom made? Some pre-builts take a proprietary cooler.
You apparently bought the wrong replacement cooler. The original cooler was a PWM fan. Your replacement is a DC controlled fan. They don't talk the same electrical language.
Plug the 3pin cooler into the 4-pin CPU FAN header to start with. Those headers accept both. Then it will be up to the BIOS to determine if it can only control PWM style fans or if it can also control regular DC fans.