Question Is going for an open frame ok instead of a normal case ?

[ptTimeBldr]

So this is the open-frame or test chassis for ITX m'boards that I've opted for instead of a normal ITX case. Is this a good idea or bad idea for cooling, etc? Reason behind it was I wanted a system that would be easy to clean and maintain. The Gigabyte A520I AC m'board is already secured, but the PSU still hasn't arrived btw because it was out of stock, so I ordered a new 550W SFX one just a few hours ago. Anyway, is an open-frame a good idea? My accom is high and dry, no pets running around, etc, so it should be safe.

 

[Colif]

You might get more dust
you will need a power button
accidental damage to parts is more likely.

Some possible comparisons, test benchs are about closest -
https://www.overclock.net/threads/questions-to-test-bench-owners.1040691/

Pros/Cons of a test bench over a normal case?

Hello, recently I started thinking about making myself a test bench. I am not a benchmarker or anything like that, I just prefer the looks of a test bench and I like the idea of having my hardware on display instead of it being hidden somewhere. I also think this would be a fun little project...

www.overclock.net

more thoughts on it - https://steamcommunity.com/discussions/forum/11/1752358461525471121/
it looks like it should be fine.

 

[PsychoPsyops]

Well it also depends on what you are going to use it for. If it's anything high-power, cooling will definitely be a problem. Open frames don't provide better cooling just because it is open, air flow is necessary, unless the thing is in some sort of freezer.

 

[ptTimeBldr]

You might get more dust
you will need a power button
accidental damage to parts is more likely.

Some possible comparisons, test benchs are about closest -
https://www.overclock.net/threads/questions-to-test-bench-owners.1040691/

Pros/Cons of a test bench over a normal case?

Hello, recently I started thinking about making myself a test bench. I am not a benchmarker or anything like that, I just prefer the looks of a test bench and I like the idea of having my hardware on display instead of it being hidden somewhere. I also think this would be a fun little project...

www.overclock.net

more thoughts on it - https://steamcommunity.com/discussions/forum/11/1752358461525471121/
it looks like it should be fine.

Yep I would get dust more quickly than if it was all in a case, but would be easier and quicker to get rid of with those aerosol spray cannisters with a plastic tube. It also came with power and reset toggle cables/switches that you just plug into the m'board sockets.

 

[ptTimeBldr]

Well it also depends on what you are going to use it for. If it's anything high-power, cooling will definitely be a problem. Open frames don't provide better cooling just because it is open, air flow is necessary, unless the thing is in some sort of freezer.

It will be for general tasks and some gaming. I did watch a fair number of YT vids featuring this type of open frame with a similar system spec, and mmo's shown on those seemed to run fairly well without overheating issues.

 

[Nighthawk117]

You won't have any cooling issues and it will be easy to clean with compressed air. Biggest issue for me is more vulnerable to accidents. I would just place it somewhere out the way to avoid damage.

 

[SkyNetRising]

So this is the open-frame or test chassis for ITX m'boards that I've opted for instead of a normal ITX case.
Reason behind it was I wanted a system that would be easy to clean and maintain.

For those reasons it doesn't make a lot of sense.

 

[ptTimeBldr]

You won't have any cooling issues and it will be easy to clean with compressed air. Biggest issue for me is more vulnerable to accidents. I would just place it somewhere out the way to avoid damage.

As long as I've got some sort of fan directed at APU/CPU, NVMe SSD & external HDD or SSD, I should be ok. It will be placed under a bridge-stand for the monitor to prevent any damage.

 

[ptTimeBldr]

For those reasons it doesn't make a lot of sense.

Well, it does make sense because being an open frame will make it easier to clean. I won't have to remove any side panel, etc, to do this. Surely this is the whole point of these open frames anyway, otherwise why do we have them? Just as a test bench? And then you transfer the tested system into a case, right? But then what do you do with the test bench??

 

[USAFRet]

Surely this is the whole point of these open frames anyway, otherwise why do we have them?

Easier parts swapping on a test bench.

 

[FoxInFlames]

This will be more detailed than necessary but I'd rather do it.

As what others said, open rigs are quite prone to dust and damage (and lack of airflow unless you have fans directed at things which need to cool)

Personally, I'd just go with a chassis, because they have directed airflow and stuff, and a basic protection from damage, and builds within a chassis are not difficult to maintain, you just remove one of the panels (depending on which side you're working on, the motherboard or the rear, where you generally keep SSD and HDD parts), put the cpu horizontally and do what needs to be done.

And removing the panels isn't a very big deal either, they either have 4 screws, 2 screws or (in my case) just a magnetic panel you can pull open

Though a lot of things do depend on which kind of Itx chassis you're going for, they come in several shapes, here are some examples

One that's taller than its longer

One that's longer than it's taller.

That looks like a console, now


Of course a lot may depend on your space and the usage scenario (and the size of the components you're getting, not everything fits), and an open build would be better if you just have a habit of taking everything apart, cleaning and and putting it back in, but in my own experience as a rather clumsy person (who can't see a glass of water without knocking it over) I'd rather get a chassis to prevent accidental damage to the components

 

[BFG-9000]

So long as you don't have any children who might throw balls around, and don't mind the RF interference on Wifi, an open case is fine.

Modern wifi routers have very heavily shielded USB 3.0 ports inside the case (even the traces leading to them are armored) because Superspeed USB 3.0/3.1 Gen 1/3.2 Gen 1 operates at 2.5GHz which not only interferes with 2.4GHz but also 5GHz as the 2nd harmonic. Superspeed+ 3.1 Gen 2/3.2 Gen 2 actually operates at 5GHz (RT-AC68 wasn't shielded and so wifi performance suffered badly whenever the USB 3.0 was in use). This can be an issue with many modern windowed cases too, if the window isn't at least anti-static metalized (complete RF shielding would look like the perfed metal in a microwave oven window which is designed to contain 2.45GHz)

This must explain at least some of the many complaints about bad wifi on this board. If everything is ethernet, then it's not going to be a problem.

For the most ghetto fabulous appearance though, the proper procedure is to use drywall screws to directly attach the board to the wall, at a height easily reachable by air compressor blow gun for dusting.

 

[ptTimeBldr]

Easier parts swapping on a test bench.

That's another good reason for them 😉

 

[ptTimeBldr]

So long as you don't have any children who might throw balls around, and don't mind the RF interference on Wifi, an open case is fine.

Modern wifi routers have very heavily shielded USB 3.0 ports inside the case (even the traces leading to them are armored) because Superspeed USB 3.0/3.1 Gen 1/3.2 Gen 1 operates at 2.5GHz which not only interferes with 2.4GHz but also 5GHz as the 2nd harmonic. Superspeed+ 3.1 Gen 2/3.2 Gen 2 actually operates at 5GHz (RT-AC68 wasn't shielded and so wifi performance suffered badly whenever the USB 3.0 was in use). This can be an issue with many modern windowed cases too, if the window isn't at least anti-static metalized (complete RF shielding would look like the perfed metal in a microwave oven window which is designed to contain 2.45GHz)

This must explain at least some of the many complaints about bad wifi on this board. If everything is ethernet, then it's not going to be a problem.

For the most ghetto fabulous appearance though, the proper procedure is to use drywall screws to directly attach the board to the wall, at a height easily reachable by air compressor blow gun for dusting.

No, there won't be any kids or pets running around and I'm high up in a block of flats, so virtually no issues with insects and such.
I didn't think of RF interference though. All my systems are connected to the Internet router by WiFi, so could it interfere with this? The m'board comes with a WiFi antenna though, which should help.

 

[ptTimeBldr]

This will be more detailed than necessary but I'd rather do it.

As what others said, open rigs are quite prone to dust and damage (and lack of airflow unless you have fans directed at things which need to cool)

Personally, I'd just go with a chassis, because they have directed airflow and stuff, and a basic protection from damage, and builds within a chassis are not difficult to maintain, you just remove one of the panels (depending on which side you're working on, the motherboard or the rear, where you generally keep SSD and HDD parts), put the cpu horizontally and do what needs to be done.

And removing the panels isn't a very big deal either, they either have 4 screws, 2 screws or (in my case) just a magnetic panel you can pull open

Though a lot of things do depend on which kind of Itx chassis you're going for, they come in several shapes, here are some examples

One that's taller than its longer

One that's longer than it's taller.

That looks like a console, now


Of course a lot may depend on your space and the usage scenario (and the size of the components you're getting, not everything fits), and an open build would be better if you just have a habit of taking everything apart, cleaning and and putting it back in, but in my own experience as a rather clumsy person (who can't see a glass of water without knocking it over) I'd rather get a chassis to prevent accidental damage to the components

Some nice looking ITX cases there. I've done quite a few mATX builds over the years and all were in cases, but didn't like removing side panels to clean them, which depending on how they're situated can be awkward. So I decided to go for an open frame this time. I think it will work...

 

[FoxInFlames]

Some nice looking ITX cases there. I've done quite a few mATX builds over the years and all were in cases, but didn't like removing side panels to clean them, which depending on how they're situated can be awkward. So I decided to go for an open frame this time. I think it will work...

Feel free to do so, i can see why some would prefer everything out in the open instead of inside a box, and since there's nothing around your rig that can damage it, a case won't really make a huge difference.

 

[ptTimeBldr]

Thanks. The appeal for me - apart from being easy to maintain, is the functional, semi-industrial design, so at least it will be interesting to look at.

 

[Karadjgne]

Dust isn't generally an issue with open frames unless they sit for extended periods. Heat rising from the gpu, cpu, motherboard has a strong tendency to make air rise, which creates a natural dust barrier. Especially true of the wall mounted units. It's why there's no real need for dust filters on Top of a pc, dust only settles where there's no air flow of any sort.

Cooling isn't an issue due to the same. Temps are generally lower to start with since all coolers are subjected to Ambient temps, which in a case means the air temp inside, not outside the case excepting front mount rads. Being in an enclosed case and not subject to outside environment, airflow is highly important for the feeding of outside ambient and removal of inside heat, not an issue with an open test bench.

 

[ptTimeBldr]

Dust isn't generally an issue with open frames unless they sit for extended periods. Heat rising from the gpu, cpu, motherboard has a strong tendency to make air rise, which creates a natural dust barrier. Especially true of the wall mounted units. It's why there's no real need for dust filters on Top of a pc, dust only settles where there's no air flow of any sort.

Cooling isn't an issue due to the same. Temps are generally lower to start with since all coolers are subjected to Ambient temps, which in a case means the air temp inside, not outside the case excepting front mount rads. Being in an enclosed case and not subject to outside environment, airflow is highly important for the feeding of outside ambient and removal of inside heat, not an issue with an open test bench.

Totally agree, can't argue with what you say here, and whenever dust does start to settle all I have to do is use one of those compressed air dispensers.

 

[BFG-9000]

If you don't use the USB 3.0, then wifi will be unaffected (USB 2.0 is only 240MHz so OK). Those routers with external antennas also suffer if the USB 3.0 port is used like with a flash drive, especially if with a poorly shielded USB extension cable but sometimes you can wrap foil around them to fix things. With completely unshielded traces on the motherboard from chipset or USB chip to the back ports, some wifi interference is virtually guaranteed whenever the USB 3.0 is actively being used.

Canned "air" (it's really the refrigerant R-152a*) is pretty expensive but at least it is dry. A powered air duster would provide an unlimited supply of air at ambient humidity levels. An air compressor condenses all of the moisture out of the air and even an inline coalescing water filter can only reduce the humidity to 100% which would be adequate for something like a plasma cutter, but spray painters require less so also use disposable filters or something like a MotorGuard (which is essentially a pressurized canister holding a roll of toilet paper! Yes the name is because they originally sold it as an add-on car oil filter to "deep clean" the oil). Even if you don't have your own air compressor, if you have access to one you could get a portable air tank, which lasts a surprisingly long time with a small blow gun or airbrush, and can also be used for other things like filling tires.

*R-152a has long been used as the gas in spray dusters because it was cheaper than R-134a (which provides more pressure so was used in more premium spray duster products, but is being phased out for being a greenhouse gas causing global warming). Earlier R-12 was phased out by 1996 for damaging the ozone layer. CO2 would make for a powerful duster if you already have a beverage carbonator, but is 10x the pressure so too high for packaging in a cheap spray can (it's 3400x less powerful a greenhouse gas than R-134a)

 

[faalin]

I've had three open case computers, this one was a work computer that i built. Biggest thing is just making sure no one bumps into it or you drop something on it.

second open frame for work

This one was a gaming computer i left at a friends house so i didnt have to travel with a tower

still in the build stage

 

[ptTimeBldr]

If you don't use the USB 3.0, then wifi will be unaffected (USB 2.0 is only 240MHz so OK). Those routers with external antennas also suffer if the USB 3.0 port is used like with a flash drive, especially if with a poorly shielded USB extension cable but sometimes you can wrap foil around them to fix things. With completely unshielded traces on the motherboard from chipset or USB chip to the back ports, some wifi interference is virtually guaranteed whenever the USB 3.0 is actively being used.

Canned "air" (it's really the refrigerant R-152a*) is pretty expensive but at least it is dry. A powered air duster would provide an unlimited supply of air at ambient humidity levels. An air compressor condenses all of the moisture out of the air and even an inline coalescing water filter can only reduce the humidity to 100% which would be adequate for something like a plasma cutter, but spray painters require less so also use disposable filters or something like a MotorGuard (which is essentially a pressurized canister holding a roll of toilet paper! Yes the name is because they originally sold it as an add-on car oil filter to "deep clean" the oil). Even if you don't have your own air compressor, if you have access to one you could get a portable air tank, which lasts a surprisingly long time with a small blow gun or airbrush, and can also be used for other things like filling tires.

*R-152a has long been used as the gas in spray dusters because it was cheaper than R-134a (which provides more pressure so was used in more premium spray duster products, but is being phased out for being a greenhouse gas causing global warming). Earlier R-12 was phased out by 1996 for damaging the ozone layer. CO2 would make for a powerful duster if you already have a beverage carbonator, but is 10x the pressure so too high for packaging in a cheap spray can (it's 3400x less powerful a greenhouse gas than R-134a)

Thank you. I won't have to worry about using USB 3.0 sockets, as the wifi antenna seems to connect to two terminals to the right of the ethernet port.

 

[ptTimeBldr]

I've had three open case computers, this one was a work computer that i built. Biggest thing is just making sure no one bumps into it or you drop something on it.

second open frame for work

This one was a gaming computer i left at a friends house so i didnt have to travel with a tower

still in the build stage

Good to know someone here has done open frame builds, at least now I know I'm not the only one. I like the second build the most which seems to provide a lot of airflow with those fans, and there's water cooling as well I think?

 

[FoxInFlames]

and there's water cooling as well I think?

Not the person you asked, but i believe so.

 

[ptTimeBldr]

Not the person you asked, but i believe so.

Yes it does look like it. Must be some serious overclocking going on with four 120ml fans and the water cooling.