[SOLVED] is my temp normal

xJesserX

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hey , i'm building a new pc and until i finish i'm using my old one that has an i7 3770 with a cheap cooler (57 rpm 0.O) and 16 gb ram ddr3 dual channel and 1tb hdd
my question is while playing league with the integrated graphics ( intel hd 4000) i get decent fps (130 dropping to 90-80) but my cpu temp goes to 60-71 and after the game finishes back to 48-51 while using chrome are this temp normal when using the integrated graphic ?
 
Solution
It's a little high for just gaming, not even running a thermal stress test, but it's well within specification. Likely it's due to the cheap cooler. A better cooler, even a "cheap" one like the Gammaxx 400 or Hyper 212 EVO, would be a major improvement over the stock cooler if that is what you are using.

If the cooler has been on there for a long time, it's probably worth getting some fresh thermal paste, cleaning the old paste off both the CPU heat spreader and the bottom of the heatsink using isopropyl alcohol and then putting it back together with fresh paste.
It's a little high for just gaming, not even running a thermal stress test, but it's well within specification. Likely it's due to the cheap cooler. A better cooler, even a "cheap" one like the Gammaxx 400 or Hyper 212 EVO, would be a major improvement over the stock cooler if that is what you are using.

If the cooler has been on there for a long time, it's probably worth getting some fresh thermal paste, cleaning the old paste off both the CPU heat spreader and the bottom of the heatsink using isopropyl alcohol and then putting it back together with fresh paste.
 
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xJesserX

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Jul 6, 2019
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It's a little high for just gaming, not even running a thermal stress test, but it's well within specification. Likely it's due to the cheap cooler. A better cooler, even a "cheap" one like the Gammaxx 400 or Hyper 212 EVO, would be a major improvement over the stock cooler if that is what you are using.

If the cooler has been on there for a long time, it's probably worth getting some fresh thermal paste, cleaning the old paste off both the CPU heat spreader and the bottom of the heatsink using isopropyl alcohol and then putting it back together with fresh paste.
how about the low rpm and the cpu fan not detected in speed fan to increase the rpm speed
 
Speed fan is fickle. I don't use it, and I don't recommend it. Some people like it, but mostly those are "old schoolers" that have never grown out of it being the only thing out there back when it was.

Download HWinfo and run "Sensors only". See if the CPU fan speed is detected using that, or check in the BIOS.

What cooler are you using now? Is it the stock cooler or a cheap aftermarket job? If you don't know, post a picture.

 

xJesserX

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Jul 6, 2019
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Speed fan is fickle. I don't use it, and I don't recommend it. Some people like it, but mostly those are "old schoolers" that have never grown out of it being the only thing out there back when it was.

Download HWinfo and run "Sensors only". See if the CPU fan speed is detected using that, or check in the BIOS.

What cooler are you using now? Is it the stock cooler or a cheap aftermarket job? If you don't know, post a picture.

cheap aftermarket and i have a fan in the back of the case
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the 56 rpm is the cpu one
 
What utility did you use for that monitoring screenshot, because it ISN'T HWinfo "Sensors only". Now, that reading COULD be accurate, in which case not using HWinfo might not matter, but sometimes, it does. Honestly, you should be able to LOOK at the CPU fan and tell if the fan is turning faster than 56rpm, because that would be EXTREMELY slow and I'm not even sure the fan motor could function at that low of a speed. It's more likely that it's a PWM or RPM reporting failure on the fan assembly, which is having the additional wonderful effect of also confusing the fan controller so that it's not increasing speed when it should be.

Did you look in the BIOS to see what the BIOS says? I mean, if your CPU fan was running at 56rpm, you'd be overheating, without any doubt, especially with a cheap aftermarket little cooler. IN general, the end result is probably going to be the same and that is that you need to replace that cooler, period. Nice thing about that is that it's not a waste of money. Get a good cooler, and you can then RE-use it with the new system you are building when it is ready to use.

Monitoring software

HWmonitor, Open hardware monitor, Realtemp, Speccy, Speedfan, Windows utilities, CPU-Z, NZXT CAM and most of the bundled motherboard utilities are often not the best choice as they are not always accurate. Some are actually grossly inaccurate, especially with certain chipsets or specific sensors that for whatever reason they tend to not like or work well with. I've found HWinfo or CoreTemp to be the MOST accurate with the broadest range of chipsets and sensors. They are also almost religiously kept up to date.

CoreTemp is great for just CPU thermals including core temps or distance to TJmax on older AMD platforms.

HWinfo is great for pretty much EVERYTHING, including CPU thermals, core loads, core temps, package temps, GPU sensors, HDD and SSD sensors, motherboard chipset and VRM sensor, all of it. When starting HWinfo after installation, always check the box next to "sensors only" and de-select the box next to "summary".


Run HWinfo and look at system voltages and other sensor readings.

Monitoring temperatures, core speeds, voltages, clock ratios and other reported sensor data can often help to pick out an issue right off the bat. HWinfo is a good way to get that data and in my experience tends to be more accurate than some of the other utilities available. CPU-Z, GPU-Z and Core Temp all have their uses but HWinfo tends to have it all laid out in a more convenient fashion so you can usually see what one sensor is reporting while looking at another instead of having to flip through various tabs that have specific groupings, plus, it is extremely rare for HWinfo to not report the correct sensor values under the correct sensor listings, or misreport other information. Utilities like HWmonitor, Openhardware monitor and Speccy, tend to COMMONLY misreport sensor data, or not report it at all.

After installation, run the utility and when asked, choose "sensors only". The other window options have some use but in most cases everything you need will be located in the sensors window. If you're taking screenshots to post for troubleshooting, it will most likely require taking three screenshots and scrolling down the sensors window between screenshots in order to capture them all.

It is most helpful if you can take a series of HWinfo screenshots at idle, after a cold boot to the desktop. Open HWinfo and wait for all of the Windows startup processes to complete. Usually about four or five minutes should be plenty. Take screenshots of all the HWinfo sensors.

Next, run something demanding like Prime95 (With AVX and AVX2 disabled) or Heaven benchmark. Take another set of screenshots while either of those is running so we can see what the hardware is doing while under a load.
 
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