[SOLVED] Is this a solid setup? And are there any additions or retractions that would need to be made to top this off?

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That was an over-generalization; it's still going to depend on the games in question.
Sure, 2060 is a poor choice for 4K, but look at the cpus you paired both gpus with: a mid-range cpu + high-end gpu vs a high-end cpu + mid-range gpu.
The two setups almost cancel each other out...
 
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Phaaze88 said:
That was an over-generalization; it's still going to depend on the games in question.
Sure, 2060 is a poor choice for 4K, but look at the cpus you paired both gpus with: a mid-range cpu + high-end gpu vs a high-end cpu + mid-range gpu.
The two setups almost cancel each other out...
Click to expand...
Ok then let's meet in the middle 😉
- https://pcpartpicker.com/list/KMcTCL
 
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Those T-force Vulcan 3000-3600mhz sticks have not been working on a lot of Ryzen motherboards, particularly B450 chipsets. I'm sure that's not the case, in every case, but I've seen a good number of them over the last month or so where they had Vulcan sticks and they had to be returned for something different. Whether it's because they were just bad sticks or because there is some incompatibility between the components they are using on them or the number of ranks, and the boards, IDK, but there is something going on there. Plus, they are supremely cheap memory kits anyhow. I wouldn't recommend ANY Team memory kit that wasn't a known B-die kit. Not for Ryzen anyhow.
 
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hey so basically yes this is indeed a long term setup if you are not looking to get the most juice out of your build and just do gaming it is a really good setup
save up some money and upgrade when you can
 
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On a final thought I would be willing to downgrade to the conventional rtx 2070 8 gb instead of the super if I was to get the ryzen 5 3600 and switch the motherboard to check out any incompatibility issues, what do you guys think of this as a final product? I'll buy windows from the website suggested earlier or another one that I've seen as trusted. Also once again I'd REALLY rather not send in the motherboard for a bios update because I've had to do that before and I'd rather not go through that process again.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/D9Dq3t
 
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Agree with the 2070 build.

Regarding motherboard compatibility, if motherboard stock is new, it should say Ryzen 3rd gen or Ryzen 3000 ready on the box. If not, Msi Ryzen boards have the ability to flash bios without a cpu called flashback. All that is needed is power to the board, a usb stick inserted in the flashback usb slot with the bios file on it renamed as MSI.rom and press the button to proceed.

 
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Why would you need to do that? The board I suggested has BIOS flashback. You don't even need a CPU to be installed, AT ALL, to flash the BIOS on that board.

That build is about as solid as it gets, everything is high quality, nothing is old or slow compared to the rest of the system, everything is from trusted manufacturers and honestly, in regard to the SATA vs NVME SSD, that NVME, while nice to have, does absolutely ZERO for you when it comes to gaming aside from maybe a one second difference in loading times on some game maps or levels. Other than that, zip. So when the budget is so critical, saving ten or twenty bucks to go with a standard SATA SSD, makes a lot of sense, and will still be magnitudes faster than that old, slow 5400rpm hard drive.

But whatever. You didn't listen in the last thread you created, so I doubt you'll listen this time either. Some people are just hard headed that way.
 
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Last time I was told to ignore the possible incompatibilities icon I ended up screwing around with my computer for weeks before finally sending it off for a bios update, I need to know for sure, am I going to have to do that? And is there anything wrong with the setup I sent you, it was one someone else suggested in this thread and I made slight altercations to it. The reason I'm being "hard headed" as you put it (which was a completely unnecessary insult) is because I'm not that far into my current job and this is a lot of money for me, and so you can understand why I'm being so tedious especially in a field that is so broad and has so many things that can go wrong, which I've experienced in every aspect on my first build which was entirely suggested from this site and I didn't question for a second. So please, straight answers and not insults on my intelligence and temperament would be appreciated.
 
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Hard truth and toxicity are worlds apart.

You will not come in here saying:

supercrosses123 said:
I've had some idiot critique me on every aspect of this build
Click to expand...

after some of our best members have tried to help you, and I have tried to help you, and other members in this thread have tried to help you, and all you can do is whine. It's exactly this kind of self entitlement that leads to problems in threads. So, we aren't doing that.

Also, in the spirit of trying to help make sure you don't end up getting bent over, I would highly recommend that you avoid buying a Windows key from ANY of those "cheap keys" or gray sites. Sure, they'll probably work, at first. But 90% of them get blacklisted within a year or fail to activate again if you need to reinstall later because they've been blacklisted as stolen or fraudulently obtained keys. It doesn't matter one iota whether the site itself is legit, the sales of all those cheap keys are not. Microsoft has verified this again and again, but these imbecile tech sites keep insisting on posting links to them as though that somehow of itself lends them legitimacy and makes the core issue of the fact that none of those places are legitimate partners or distributors of product keys just go away. It doesn't.

My guess is that will be ignored too, but that's totally your gig there. My job is just to make you aware of it. What you do after that is totally on you. You could get lucky and it's a legitimately resold key. It's a risk though, so as long as you are aware of that, then maybe it's a risk you are willing to take. Just know, that when it happens, there is NO recourse for it. The seller site will say they are not responsible for the legitimacy of their 3rd party sellers, the 3rd party seller will say they sold a valid key through a legit retail site and Microsoft will say screw you.
 
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PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Best Buy)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($88.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Crucial MX500 250 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($47.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($53.49 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card ($463.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT H500 ATX Mid Tower Case ($89.98 @ NZXT)
Power Supply: EVGA 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($98.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1227.40
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-06 22:22 EST-0500


No possibility of incompatibility. All parts are verified. The board is Ryzen 3000 compatible out of the box.
 
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Solution
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.00 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE ATX AM4 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Patriot Viper Steel 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3733 Memory ($79.98 @ Amazon)
Storage: Crucial P1 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($95.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: MSI Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB MECH OC Video Card ($379.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT H510 ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.98 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($84.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($98.99 @ Amazon)

Total: $1268.90

Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-06 22:34 EST-0500

This would be me. You could save some by switching to a B450 /3200MHz ram instead but if it's swingable I'd not do that. Just as there's a noticeable difference between 2133 and 3200, there's also a difference in 3200 and 3733, which is the sweetspot for Ryzen 3000 series.

I believe the topic of the ssd has been sufficiently covered, doesn't need further iterations.
 
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Darkbreeze said:
But 90% of them get blacklisted within a year or fail to activate again if you need to reinstall later because they've been blacklisted as stolen or fraudulently obtained keys.
Click to expand...
"90%" sounds like a made-up number. : D

Most of those using keys from reseller sites that I've heard of don't have problems with them. And in general, I suspect the vast majority of those should be "legitimate" OEM keys, albeit ones from regions where Windows costs substantially less due to the economic situation in said countries. No doubt, it's against Microsoft's terms and conditions to be reselling those keys in other regions, and they technically could disable such keys activated elsewhere in the world, but I certainly haven't heard of any mass-blacklistings of cross-region Windows keys. And sure, it's possible that the key could end up disabled down the line, but so long as someone bought the key for their own system, they probably won't care all that much, as they didn't pay much for it to begin with, and can just get another key to replace it with. And of course, a de-activated copy of Windows 10 should still be functional, just with a watermark and limited customization options, so it's not like one will be locked out of their computer until they get a new key.

That said, it's probably not a good idea to get a key from such a site when building a system for someone else. And I wouldn't go out of my way to suggest someone get their Windows key that way. It is possible that some keys might not have actually been legitimately purchased, in which case deactivation of the key is a likely possibility. So I would agree that tech sites probably shouldn't be recommending third-party key resellers, or promoting them in sponsored deals, as appears to be the case there.
 
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Yes. 90% IS a made up number, since we have no way of tracking this. But if you read the MANY responses in the article that was done recommending cheap keys HERE last year, and then added the ones in there to the growing number of them that we've been casually been keeping tabs on across the forum, you'd know it is much higher than anybody is willing to believe.

I will also tell you, without ANY room for doubt, that Microsoft has SPECIFICALLY said that 100% of keys not purchased through specifically authorized retailers, are illegitimate. So at any time, ANY of those second hand keys could be revoked. Even if you only paid ten bucks for it, seems like an unnecessary risk to take that could lead to paying MORE than if you'd just purchased through a legitimate channel to begin with.
 
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Darkbreeze said:
Yes. 90% IS a made up number, since we have no way of tracking this. But if you read the MANY responses in the article that was done recommending cheap keys HERE last year, and then added the ones in there to the growing number of them that we've been casually been keeping tabs on across the forum, you'd know it is much higher than anybody is willing to believe.
Click to expand...
I decided to fact-check this and skim through the 60+ responses in the thread for that article last year...

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forums.tomshardware.com forums.tomshardware.com

Out of all those posts, only two of them were from people mentioning having problems with an aftermarket Windows key, and neither actually had their key deactivated after some time. One had bought a key on eBay, and found it to be a volume license, but got refunded when they contacted the seller about it. The other bought a key from a reseller site, and found it to be a used key from the start, but apparently didn't want to bother going through the refund process.

Then there were at least several people mentioning keys from resellers working perfectly fine, in some cases for years. And others mentioning getting Windows through the Insider program or an Education Edition, or simply never activating Windows, and putting up with the limitations.

The only ones mentioning their key becoming deactivated were those with keys from apparently authorized sources, where motherboard changes caused the deactivation.

And around half of the thread was just posts from those who hadn't actually used a key-reseller talking about how bad they were without actually providing any data to back them up. : P
 
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