Question kraken 120

[jaxson m@lcolm]

i have a 450 aorus m motherboard and i just bought the kraken 120 aio and i dont have rgb headers but i dont care about the rgb that much, but i didnt know if i should buy a rgb controller so itll work but also i dont have a aio pump header on my motherboard and didnt know how i could make the aio work and i didnt know if i could plug the pump into the cpu cooler header, if anybody has answers please let me know

 

[jaxson m@lcolm]

and i didnt know if i just need to get a whole new motherboard that has teh right headers

 

[drivinfast247]

Plug the pump into CPU_FAN header. Set header power to 100% in BIOS.

 

[jaxson m@lcolm]

Plug the pump into CPU_FAN header. Set header power to 100% in BIOS.

but what about the radiator? and will the aio work without the rgb plugged in?

 

[drivinfast247]

but what about the radiator? and will the aio work without the rgb plugged in?

Yes. But you will need power to the pump, though.

 

[jaxson m@lcolm]

Yes. But you will need power to the pump, though.

Ok so do you onow what header i plug my radiator into?

 

[jaxson m@lcolm]

Ok so do you onow what header i plug my radiator into?

Its a 3 pin

 

[drivinfast247]

Its a 3 pin

That's the pump cable that should be connected to CPU_FAN.

Didn't this come with a manual?

 

[geofelt]

Plug the pump into sysfan_1 or2
Set that fan speed in the bios to run at 100% always.
Plug the radiator fan header into the cpu header where it can be motherboard speed controlled.

Is there a reason why you bought a 120 aio?
They are not very effective compared to simple tower type air cooler.

 

[Paperdoc]

There is a right way to do this, and you will need only one small accessory -a Splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Black-Sleeved-Splitter-Converter/dp/B01EF9OI0O/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1WY0BLGZRWIBC&keywords=fan+splitter&qid=1683229737&sprefix=fan+splitter%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-3

That's a 2-pack, you need only one of them. Look closely at its two male (with pins) outputs, and note that only one of them as all 4 pins in it.

Plug the Splitter into the CPU_FAN header. Plug the 3-hole female connector (with only 2 wires) on the end of the cable from the rad into the only Splitter output with all 4 pins. Plug the 4-hole connector (with 4 wires) into the other Splitter output. Boot your system and immediately go into BIOS Setup (see mobo manual p. 21). Go through the MIT screen and choose the PC Health Status screen. There choose to work on the CPU_FAN header and make these settings of configuration options.
Fan Speed Control Normal
Fan Control Mode to PWM, not to Auto or Voltage
Fan Stop DISabled
Temperature Warning to 80C for now. You can change this later if you need to.
Fan Fail Warning to ENabled.

When all are set use Esc back to the Main Menu, then F10 to get to the Exit Menu (p. 37.) Choose Save and Exit Setup. This will save your settings and reboot.

Your AIO system is designed to have the PUMP unit run full speed all the time to circulate fluid though the rad loop. CONTROL of CPU cooling is done solely by changing the speed of the RAD FAN. Now, the pump uses a quirk of the design of the 4-pin PWM fan system. In that system if you plug a 3-pin older fan into a 4-pin header using PWM Mode, that fan will run full speed all the time. Your PUMP is wired just like an older 3-pin fan. So when you use the Splitter to connect it to the CPU_FAN header and set that header specifically to use only PWM Mode, the pump will always run full speed as designed. On the other hand, the FAN also connected to the Splitter is a new 4-pin design, so it WILL use the PWM signal from the header and have its speed controlled that way.

That CPU_FAN header has an important second function. It monitors its "fan's" speed signal for possible failure. It can do this for only ONE device connected to the header. So when you plug the PUMP into the Splitter output with ALL 4 pins, that is the only speed signal sent back to the header for monitoring. In your system, the most important item to monitor for failure is the PUMP - if it fails to circulate liquid, there is NO CPU cooling. Such a failure will be detected and a warning pop up on your screen. Further, many mobos also will actually shut down your whole system quickly if this happens without waiting for the CPU temperature reading to rise, as a preventive to avoid having sudden high temperature damage your CPU chip.

The Rad Fan speed will never be "seen" in this system, so from time to time YOU should just look and verify it is still turning. If it ever does fail (this cannot be detected automatically), other protection systems based on the actual CPU internal temperature will kick in and reduce your system performance or shut you down to prevent CPU overheating.

 

[jaxson m@lcolm]

That's the pump cable that should be connected to CPU_FAN.

Didn't this come with a manual?

Yes lol it came with manual but i left it in my sisters bf car and its gone

 

[jaxson m@lcolm]

Plug the pump into sysfan_1 or2
Set that fan speed in the bios to run at 100% always.
Plug the radiator fan header into the cpu header where it can be motherboard speed controlled.

Is there a reason why you bought a 120 aio?
They are not very effective compared to simple tower type air cooler.

It was in my budget and it was my furst time at best buy so i wanted to get the best out of it with a aio

 

[jaxson m@lcolm]

There is a right way to do this, and you will need only one small accessory -a Splitter like this

https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Black-Sleeved-Splitter-Converter/dp/B01EF9OI0O/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1WY0BLGZRWIBC&keywords=fan+splitter&qid=1683229737&sprefix=fan+splitter%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-3

That's a 2-pack, you need only one of them. Look closely at its two male (with pins) outputs, and note that only one of them as all 4 pins in it.

Plug the Splitter into the CPU_FAN header. Plug the 3-hole female connector (with only 2 wires) on the end of the cable from the rad into the only uSplitter output with all 4 pins. Plug the 4-hole connector (with 4 wires) into the other Splitter output. Boot your system and immediately go into BIOS Setup (see mobo manual p. 21). Go through the MIT screen and choose the PC Health Status screen. There choose to work on the CPU_FAN header and make these settings of configuration options.
Fan Speed Control Normal
Fan Control Mode to PWM, not to Auto or Voltage
Fan Stop DISabled
Temperature Warning to 80C for now. You can change this later if you need to.
Fan Fail Warning to ENabled.

When all are set use Esc back to the Main Menu, then F10 to get to the Exit Menu (p. 37.) Choose Save and Exit Setup. This will save your settings and reboot.

Your AIO system is designed to have the PUMP unit run full speed all the time to circulate fluid though the rad loop. CONTROL of CPU cooling is done solely by changing the speed of the RAD FAN. Now, the pump uses a quirk of the design of the 4-pin PWM fan system. In that system if you plug a 3-pin older fan into a 4-pin header using PWM Mode, that fan will run full speed all the time. Your PUMP is wired just like an older 3-pin fan. So when you use the Splitter to connect it to the CPU_FAN header and set that header specifically to use only PWM Mode, the pump will always run full speed as designed. On the other hand, the FAN also connected to the Splitter is a new 4-pin design, so it WILL use the PWM signal from the header and have its speed controlled that way.

That CPU_FAN header has an important second function. It monitors its "fan's" speed signal for possible failure. It can do this for only ONE device connected to the header. So when you plug the PUMP into the Splitter output with ALL 4 pins, that is the only speed signal sent back to the header for monitoring. In your system, the most important item to monitor for failure is the PUMP - if it fails to circulate liquid, there is NO CPU cooling. Such a failure will be detected and a warning pop up on your screen. Further, many mobos also will actually shut down your whole system quickly if this happens without waiting for the CPU temperature reading to rise, as a preventive to avoid having sudden high temperature damage your CPU chip.

The Rad Fan speed will never be "seen" in this system, so from time to time YOU should just look and verify it is still turning. If it ever does fail (this cannot be detected automatically), other protection systems based on the actual CPU internal temperature will kick in and reduce your system performance or shut you down to prevent CPU overheating.

And withh this aio more likely being for an exhaust fan since its 120mm would it still be efficient? Doesnt have to be really efficient just enough to atleast keep it from overheating?

 

[drivinfast247]

And withh this aio more likely being for an exhaust fan since its 120mm would it still be efficient? Doesnt have to be really efficient just enough to atleast keep it from overheating?

What CPU?

 

[Paperdoc]

Connecting that AIO system as I said (both to the CPU_FAN header via a Splitter) has NO impact on whether it has the capacity to remove heat fast enough to keep the CPU cooled properly. It has the capacity it has.

drivinfast247 raises the pertinent point: is that AIO system suitable for the CPU you are using? As a guide to this question, you can compare the max Watts rating of the CPU chip (called TDW for "Total Dissipated Watts") to the rating of the AIO in its ability to remove Watts of heat.

 

[jaxson m@lcolm]

Connecting that AIO system as I said (both to the CPU_FAN header via a Splitter) has NO impact on whether it has the capacity to remove heat fast enough to keep the CPU cooled properly. It has the capacity it has.

drivinfast247 raises the pertinent point: is that AIO system suitable for the CPU you are using? As a guide to this question, you can compare the max Watts rating of the CPU chip (called TDW for "Total Dissipated Watts") to the rating of the AIO in its ability to remove Watts of heat.

Yes its compatible