[SOLVED] Last Motherboard / System with Legs: That will last 15 years

[timtak]

I am looking for a new motherboard / system that has legs, in the sense that it will last a long time -- ideally 15 years.

My SSD equipped Intel Corei7 computer is about 15 years old. it works fine. I don't need anything faster afaik. Even rendering video is fast enough for me. But I don't think that it will keep working for (assuming I am alive that long) the 10 or 15 years till I retire.

I try to purchase SSDs, and power supplies that have a lot of watts, or extra watts, since that seems to encourage computers to last a long time.

But other than SSDs and a good power supply, is there anything else I should purchase so that my next computer lasts at least another 15 years?

I am scared that if I get the latest fastest i9 chips and motherboard it may last less well due to its higher performance that I don't really need.

Is there anything else that will improve the longevity of my last computer? Water cooling? A good fan? Bigger box? Rubber feet? A certain type of mother board? A low power chip set?

 

[lvt]

The simpler your computer is, the longer it will last.

Some facts to consider :

1. Do not use water-cooling, use a good air-cooler instead.

2. Use the latest motherboard and CPU at the time of purchase.

3. Even if you want to use a GPU, the motherboard should have onboard video, just in case.

4. Buy a good quality PSU with higher wattage than what you need, for example you need a 500W PSU, buy 650W. Higher capacity PSU tend to last longer as they run cooler with less stress.

 

[timtak]

Dear Ivt

Thank you very much for your response.
Thank you for telling me that air-cooling is preferable.

I will get a motherboard with an onboard GPU just in case.

Thank you for confirming my thoughts regarding PSU.

2. Use the latest motherboard and CPU at the time of purchase.

Why should I use the latest rather than a trusted, or highly durable mother board?

Does anyone have any other suggestions regarding PC durability?

Tim

 

[lvt]

Why should I use the latest rather than a trusted, or highly durable mother board?

Newer motherboards usually have better onboard graphic, RAM capacity, higher FSB... that would be beneficial in the future because even if the motherboard could last 15 years to match your expectation, the CPU might need to be upgraded as the processing power needed to run software increases year after year.

For example if a decade ago you bought a motherboard that only support core 2 duo, your computer would have been useless today as you can't expect much from such CPUs. But if you invested a bit more on a better motherboard at that time, you will actually be able to use the latest Core 2 Quad. A C2Q like Q9550 or Q9650 still can do almost everything you want today, even light games with fair setting.

 

[TerryLaze]

There are no mobos with onboard graphics anymore, haven't been any for more than a decade.
There are mobos with gpu outputs but they do need a CPU with integrated graphics for them to do anything.

If you are ok with the performance of an i7 from the first or second core-i series then you can get a system with a current i3 now and get better performance than that and it will use less power.
You can also get an i9 and just reduce its power levels and even shut down some of its cores if you think that that will make it last longer.

 

[timtak]

Newer motherboards usually have better onboard graphic, RAM capacity, higher FSB... that would be beneficial in the future because even if the motherboard could last 15 years to match your expectation, the CPU might need to be upgraded as the processing power needed to run software increases year after year.

For example if a decade ago you bought a motherboard that only support core 2 duo, your computer would have been useless today as you can't expect much from such CPUs. But if you invested a bit more on a better motherboard at that time, you will actually be able to use the latest Core 2 Quad. A C2Q like Q9550 or Q9650 still can do almost everything you want today, even light games with fair setting.

I am using the same software (Office, Photoimpact=Photoshop-like software, Video editing software) that I was using 15 years ago. My body, my number of limbs, my mind, and my needs have not increased and I am still not able find time to make better books, pictures or video material so I anticipate that my needs will be the same in 15 more years.

If I were to want to play games on a computer then there is no end to the required processing power so that eventually the game is the same as reality (perhaps that will be achievable soonish and then there will be no need for better hardware for even games). But I do not play computer games.

I am not finding that software has greater demands OTHER THAN f Windows which seems to do nothing more for me other than make greater demands (thought apparently it makes Photoshop and video editing faster). Win2k was better than 10 in GUI terms

My eyes do not see further. My hands do not type faster. My mind does not work quicker. I can't think up text, images or videos more quickly. My software requirements have not increased nor do I foresee that they will increase.

I bought a computer 15 years ago that I am still satisfied with now. I am not sure why I would want more.

But I do want durability.

 

[timtak]

Thank you for your generous advice!

There are no mobos with onboard graphics anymore, haven't been any for more than a decade.

Oops. Just shows how far behind the times I am. All my Mobos have onboard graphics, though it generally does not work since I am using fairly low grade non mobo GPUs.

Then you can get a system with a current i3 now and get better performance than that and it will use less power.

Using less power is not a goal of mine unless it has durability advantages. Should I get an i3 so as to make my computer last longer?

You can also get an i9 and just reduce its power levels and even shut down some of its cores if you think that that will make it last longer.

I have no idea. Will that make it last longer?

I am more confused than at the time of the OP! sorry...sorry...

Tim

 

[timtak]

I don't play games, but I can see that if I did I would need as much power as possible.

need to be upgraded as the processing power needed to run software increases year after year.

I have been using the same software for the past 15 years, I am not sure why I would need different software in the future, other than forced upgrades by Microsoft that is.

 

[King Dranzer]

If you need the best that would last long without lot many compromises.
Here is the list:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-11700 2.5 GHz 8-Core Processor ($397.21 @ Adorama)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($99.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B560M-PLUS WIFI Micro ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory ($154.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 980 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Adorama)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($90.46 @ Amazon)
Total: $1132.57
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-07-09 01:55 EDT-0400

But if you need to cut down on budget and fine with few more compromises.
Here is the list:

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i5-11500 2.7 GHz 6-Core Processor ($276.31 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.00 @ B&H)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B560M-PLUS WIFI Micro ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($149.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 980 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Adorama)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($90.46 @ Amazon)
Total: $920.72
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-07-09 02:03 EDT-0400

You can choose between the two.

But in any case I recommend purchasing external storage unit which supports RAID 1 and two high capacity HDDs to go into. And backup your data from time to time(no need to connect the storage to online network as you can run it offline completely fine). This will reduce the possibility of Data loss failure over time due to hardware failure.

 

[lvt]

I have been using the same software for the past 15 years, I am not sure why I would need different software in the future, other than forced upgrades by Microsoft that is.

It depends on the specific software, your MS Office from 1997 might still work well on your decade-old computer, but when you encounter a document with newer format like DOCX, you will be unable to open the document with your current version of MS Office, so you will have to install an alternative software or use Google Docs online. But as using online Word processor must be done on a web browser, it's very resource-hungry, your computer will start show sign of slow down because your favourite web browser isn't what it was 10 years ago, it will eat almost all the RAM your computer has. By this time, simply watching Youtube already takes no less than 80% your CPU power.

That was what happened with most of computers that were built around 10 years ago, and similar things also will happen to your computer 10 years later. A little hardware update in the future will be a real necessity, all it take you is to put a new CPU and another stick of RAM in.

 

[timtak]

I am currently using the following from about 2006 (15 years ago)
Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 960 @ 3.20GHz 3.20 GHz
RAM 12.0 GB

A computer form 1997 would be 25 years ago. I do have one, and it stands unused.

Thank you King Dranzer. The only thing is the higher spec version is a little slower than my current PC from 15 years ago, it seems! Having 32GB of memory sounds good though. I have about 1700 dollars to spend (all of my yearly budget).

 

[lvt]

A computer form 1997 would be 25 years ago. I do have one, and it stands unused.

Sorry for the typo, I meant 2007.

Will take my morning coffee before typing next time.

 

[DRagor]

The only thing is the higher spec version is a little slower than my current PC from 15 years ago, it seems!

Nah, its not. The confusion comes from the fact that Intel used to show CPU max speed in its stats (so your 960 has max speed 3.2 GHz) while now they show base (slowest) speed (so those 11700 start up at 2.5 GHz but end at 4.9 GHz).

 

[timtak]

Thank you both.

I will go for i7 2.5GHz then.

I will get something that can be expanded when I get my budget next year (more memory etc).

 

[JWNoctis]

There's also the fact that the i7-11700 had eight cores, while the old i7-960 had four.

Instruction-per-cycle performance would also have much improved, such that the actual multithreaded performance difference might be closer to 3-4x or even more, depending on your use case.

While real-world application performance will vary, a look at some of the benchmark lists, like this one, might be helpful in familiarizing yourself with the current level of performance.

 

[timtak]

Thank you!
my i7 960 is benchmarked at 1507
whereas I am looking at current machines with
i7 10700 which are benchmarked at 5394 which is as yo usay 3-4 (3.6) times
faster. Wow.

 

[King Dranzer]

Thank you!
my i7 960 is benchmarked at 1507
whereas I am looking at current machines with
i7 10700 which are benchmarked at 5394 which is as yo usay 3-4 (3.6) times
faster. Wow.

Yes. The i7-11700 is many times faster than i7-960 when it comes to single core performance. And has double the number of cores and threads. Which is an extremely huge jump in performance.

 

[King Dranzer]

I am currently using the following from about 2006 (15 years ago)
Processor Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 960 @ 3.20GHz 3.20 GHz
RAM 12.0 GB

A computer form 1997 would be 25 years ago. I do have one, and it stands unused.

Thank you King Dranzer. The only thing is the higher spec version is a little slower than my current PC from 15 years ago, it seems! Having 32GB of memory sounds good though. I have about 1700 dollars to spend (all of my yearly budget).

The specific components I selected like that 550W PSU from Corsair RMx lineup is very high on quality and extremely reliable. And then there is Corsair Warranty Service which got you covered for good 10yrs nothing to worry about it.

That ASUS TUF-GAMING B560M-PLUS is also high on quality and comes with WiFi 6 atached to it. So if you upgrade your Internet connection to faster speeds and get WiFi 6 router. You will get better speeds and connectivity. It will work fine with older Routers as well so don't worry.

I selected that Case and CPU Cooler to get the quietest possible setup. It will be low on noise levels as well.

I will list the Suitable External Storage unit as well.

 

[King Dranzer]

Here is the list:

PCPartPicker Part List

Storage: Western Digital Gold 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($159.95 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Gold 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($159.95 @ Newegg)
Custom: WD Diskless My Cloud Pro Series PR2100 Network Attached Storage - NAS - WDBBCL0000NBK-NESN ($359.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $679.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-07-09 07:12 EDT-0400

If you have budget left or can afford it over time I say go for it. You can store all your current data from Old PC onto it. And all the data that will get generated over time will be safely backed up onto it.

Why I selected WD Gold HDD in specific is because of their extremely low failure rate over time. I recommend running the Two 4TB HDDs in RAID 1. Back up your stuff once every week or every month. And it will be fine.

Well having a storage back is my personal recommendation. If that is not very much beneficial for you or you don't have much of the data that needs to be backed up. Or have online storage solution. Then you can skip on it.

 

[timtak]

Labour is really expensive here in Japan so I am tempted by King's first parts build
but I have never put a PC together before.
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-11700 2.5 GHz 8-Core Processor ($397.21 @ Adorama)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($99.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B560M-PLUS WIFI Micro ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($149.99 @ ASUS)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory
Storage: Samsung 980 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1002.11
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-07-15 01:11 EDT-0400

I wonder if my 25 (or 20) year old PC case will work with modern components.

 

[JWNoctis]

For a case that old...Does your old PC show "It's now safe to turn off your computer" screen on shutdown, and you have to turn it off by yourself by pressing the power button?

If it does, a new case is not that expensive.

EDIT: Cooling might also be troublesome - The cases from those time I'm familiar with never had any exhaust fan except for that on the power supply, and may or may not have mounting points for more.

They tended to be much more solidly built than the average currently-produced case, though.

 

[TerryLaze]

For a case that old...Does your old PC show "It's now safe to turn off your computer" screen on shutdown, and you have to turn it off by yourself by pressing the power button?

This is a windows XP problem and has nothing to do with the case.
The cooling could be an issue though, they do have exhaust fan mounting points but I have no idea if they can be cooled to the same degree as current cases.
On the other hand there are pretty terrible modern cases as well...

 

[JWNoctis]

This is a windows XP problem and has nothing to do with the case.
The cooling could be an issue though, they do have exhaust fan mounting points but I have no idea if they can be cooled to the same degree as current cases.
On the other hand there are pretty terrible modern cases as well...

I thought that had more to do with ACPI support. Though I'm not sure how power buttons on older cases (i.e. the ones that directly disconnected power to the computer) worked. The ones I'm familiar with already worked like they currently do.

Now that I think about it, OP might also encounter problem fitting their CPU cooler inside the case. Those proportions were about unimaginable even by early P4 days.

As of the rest of the components that might come with such a case, any floppy disk drive (both 3 1/2in and 5 1/4in) and optical disk drive with IDE interface would also not work without additional adaptor, if OP still needed them.

 

[King Dranzer]

Labour is really expensive here in Japan so I am tempted by King's first parts build
but I have never put a PC together before.
PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: Intel Core i7-11700 2.5 GHz 8-Core Processor ($397.21 @ Adorama)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler ($99.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B560M-PLUS WIFI Micro ATX LGA1200 Motherboard ($149.99 @ ASUS)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 CL15 Memory
Storage: Samsung 980 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Meshify 2 Compact ATX Mid Tower Case ($119.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1002.11
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-07-15 01:11 EDT-0400

I wonder if my 25 (or 20) year old PC case will work with modern components.

Not hard at all. You can private message me anytime through out the build process.

 

[timtak]

I still have not ordered anything.

I can afford the above with an even better power supply and a graphics card, but I would be purchasing probably from Amazon Japan (which has an interface in English).

https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en

@King Dranzer

Should you create a list of links for Amazon Japan then I think I will order them.