Looking for a Good 1000watt Psu

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TheMajesticBurger

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May 2, 2017
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I am getting confused by all these different certifications, and just Psu in general. I never knew there would be so many things you need to find, in order to confirm that is is good. I am currently looking at Sliver Stone's 1000watt 80+ platinum, since it is platinum but it is also pretty small ( I think ). I have also seen Cosairs's 1000w Psu but it is a gold certification. I am building in a itx case ( Fractal Nano S ) so I need a small Psu. If someone could tell me which psu is the best or if the psu I listed above are good, that would be great!
 
Solution
You need perhaps 600 watts (160 watts CPU @ 5.0 GHz, 220 watts GPU, 50 watts fans, 50 watts pump, 50 watts platform, 50 watts to use for random other parts). 5.1 vs 5.0 GHz is a significant jump. Generally, 5.0 GHz may or may not require delidding, but 5.1 almost always will if you want the CPU to last.

750 watts is more than enough. 850 is simply excessive. 1000 is ridiculously unnecessary, and completely unwarranted. Also, you can't fit a 1000 watt unit in that cases.

Also, RGB lighting is worth about 10 watts in the more extreme cases.

TheMajesticBurger

Commendable
May 2, 2017
140
0
1,680


Well, Thanks for all the help. I going to stay with Sliverstone cause the custom cables are a lot cheaper. XD
 
You won't need a 850W PSU for a single 1080 & an i7

The test you've posted was total system load from the wall at max stress. So the whole system (PSU, Mainboard, CPU, cooler, RAM) drew 200W from the grid, including efficiency losses.
Add another 300W for a highly overclocked card and rads and you're at 500W
A 650W unit can easily handle this. Heck, unless you're benchmarking all the time, a 550W quality PSU can handle those gaming loads.
The only reason to get a 850W unit is either to add a second GPU or to run it passively cooled in a silent build.

Before buying a PSU keep in mind that your case supports PSUs up to 160mm max, but shorter ones are recommended because cable management gets quite tricky.

Factoring that in several recommendations fall short.
A Corsair RMx or Seasonic Prime is way too long, as is the the EVGA P2, the XFX XTR and other quality supplies​ being at max size

The Strider is not a bad PSU but hardly justifies it's price. They cheap out at secondary capacitors and their soldering work is mediocre, neither is it one of the quietest units out there.
The small size is a big plus on the other hand.
Personally I'd go with an EVGA G3, Silverstone cut too many corners for my taste but if it comes at a good price, go for it


 


We've already verified that the PSUs in question fit. Both are 150mm. I agree with everything else said, though.
 
The units you recommended don't fit. Recommended are units with less than 160mm length.
(Also I highly doubt there's any evidence of the G3 performing worse than the Seasonic G, all reviews I've read so far showed performance levels at Seasonic's prime standards)
 


The longest side of the SeaSonic X-850 is 160mm.
The longest side of the SeaSonic SSR-750RM is 160mm.
Only the Snow Silent unit is over 160mm.

And in the price range of a 850W G3 unit, there are 80+ Platinum PSUs like a 850W P2, SeaSonic XP platform, and Corsair HXi. I'm sure the G3 can't achieve that level of performance (consistent efficiency above 90%). And yes, there is no evidence that Leadex Gold performs worse than SSR-RM; in fact, the SeaSonic SSR-RM performs slightly worse than the Leadex Gold platform in every category (by like zero point some percent). But the SeaSonic units maintain an extremely similar performance for less price than any EVGA PSUs at a much lower price.
 


The P2 is too long, the HXi series is too long, and the G2/GS series is too long.

While I don't normally recommend the G3, it fits this build. Also, the unit-to-unit variation between PSUs is normally in the realm of 10% of the measured value with the exception of efficiency. Less than that should not be considered a demonstrable difference.

While the Seasonic units are good, I still lean towards the shorter options in this case. In general, it's not a good idea to make recommendations that give no margin for error regarding dimensions. It makes installation and maintenance unnecessarily difficult. While your recommendations fit on paper, real world compatibility may come down to manufacturing tolerances. That's pretty shaky territory.

Lastly, the OP seems to have already made up his/her mind. Others have already covered the relevant issues extensively, and the OP does not seem to share the priorities that most of us have. Repeating what has been said already isn't likely to change his/her mind.