Question Micro stuttering in all games

[Helicrom]

Hello everyone, i've been having this issue since the end of 2019 i think.. Im so done because since then i've changed every part at least once. Right now everything is brand new or few months old and no difference.
IT HAS TO BE SOFTWARE/DRIVERS/BIOS Settings or something. But i've tried already so many things from other topics and im out of ideas... Temps while gaming are 45-65*C depends on games/settings/capped fps or not.
While playing when the sttuters happen i notice my gpu usage and clock drops if that helps. Here is little benchmark https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/44405311

• Fresh installed OS, latest drivers on everything + BIOS, DDU, Game mode on/off, xbox off, power mode on High performance and some CMD settings.
• Brand new CPU,RAM,MONITOR. Tried also malware scan, adwcleaner, memtest86, memory diagnostic tool, cinebench 15, latest windows.

!!!!!!! IMPORTANT !!!! THIS IS MY SETUP NOW with a bit more fps but same stutters (everything stock): !!!!!!!!! IMPORTANT !!!!!!!!!
●CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600x + Arctic Freezer 34 Esports Duo
●GPU: Asus Dual RX 5600 XT Evo
●MTB: Asus Rog Strix B450-F Gaming (latest bios 4402)
●RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 2x8GB 3600MHz
●PSU: Corsair TX750M 80+ Gold Semi Modular
●SSD: Adata XPG SX6000 Pro 256GB M.2 PCIe (OS) + Crucial P5 500GB M.2 NVMe
●Monitor: 240hz Dell Alienware AW2521HFLA Freesync premium + Gsync
● OS: Copy of Windows 10 Pro 21H1
● AMD DRIVER: 21.6.2
●Mouse: Razer Deathadder Chroma
●Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm Quickfire TK Blue
●Headset: Kingston HyperX Cloud Stinger
●Case: Zalman N5 MF (7 fans)

THIS IS MY SETUP FROM 2020:
● CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 + Arctic Freezer 34 Esports Duo
● GPU: Gigabyte RX 580 8GB
● RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 3000 16 GB CL15 (2 x 8 GB)
● MOBO: Gigabyte b450 Aorus M + F51
● Adata XPG SX6000 Pro 256GB M.2 PCIe (OS) + SSD Kingston A400 120gb + 1TB Seagate Barracuda 7200
● PSU: Corsair TX750M 750W + 80 Gold
● OS: Copy of Windows 10 Pro 20H2
● AMD DRIVER: 20.11.1
● MONITOR: AOC C24G1 144hz with Freesync
●Case: Zalman N5 MF

 

[Lutfij]

We're currently on 21H1 for the OS, so you're not on the latest version of Windows 10. Some might say that it's not much of a difference, we'll let the OS version slide for now. Did you reinstall the OS after the parts/platform migration? You might want to fabricate your installer for your OS using Windows Media Creation Tools, to make sure that your OS isn't corrupt. At this point, is the Corsair PSU in the build 2 years old? BIOS version on your Asus motherboard? Can you please list the titles that you've taxed the system with and where you sourced said titles from?

 

[Helicrom]

We're currently on 21H1 for the OS, so you're not on the latest version of Windows 10. Some might say that it's not much of a difference, we'll let the OS version slide for now. Did you reinstall the OS after the parts/platform migration? You might want to fabricate your installer for your OS using Windows Media Creation Tools, to make sure that your OS isn't corrupt. At this point, is the Corsair PSU in the build 2 years old? BIOS version on your Asus motherboard? Can you please list the titles that you've taxed the system with and where you sourced said titles from?

• I'm using the latest windows fresh installed yesterday (21H1) You have seen the version from my pc on 2020.
• I'm using the latest BIOS 4402 and latest AMD software and chipsets.
• I bought this PSU new on 21.10.2020 and i had the same issue with the old one Cooler Master aswell with all old parts that i recently changed.

THIS STUTTERING IS NOT FROM A HARDWARE ISSUE !!! I've made sure of that after changing every part at least once.
I've noticed the sttuters in all games: Cyberpunk 2077, Dota 2, CS GO, Fortnite, Battlefield 1, Cod Warzone.

 

[mikewinddale]

So as far as I can tell, you've replaced literally every component except the SSD and the CPU cooler. So really, you just built an entirely new computer that has the same issues.

You actually have two entirely different computers that both have the exact same issue as one another.

So the question becomes, what do these two separate computers have in common? And the one thing I can think of is: the AC power outlet.

Maybe you have dirty power coming from the AC outlet? If the AC voltage is sometimes dropping, then maybe your PSU has trouble providing enough power to the GPU?

Do you have a UPS?

 

[Helicrom]

So as far as I can tell, you've replaced literally every component except the SSD and the CPU cooler. So really, you just built an entirely new computer that has the same issues.

You actually have two entirely different computers that both have the exact same issue as one another.

So the question becomes, what do these two separate computers have in common? And the one thing I can think of is: the AC power outlet.

Maybe you have dirty power coming from the AC outlet? If the AC voltage is sometimes dropping, then maybe your PSU has trouble providing enough power to the GPU?

Do you have a UPS?

Actually the ssd's are few months too, i've had the stuttering issue before that with my old normal ssd + hdd. So i bought these two m.2 nvme.
Well i've some problems with my AC power outlet. I've that weird buzzing noise coming from my pc and headphones aswell but about the power, i'm not sure.
And i dont have UPS connected to my pc. But we've one UPS in the house for emergency, so if its the same i might try it on my pc?
But as far i remember i brought my pc to a friend and tech guy and i still had the issue i think.

 

[mikewinddale]

Make sure it's a UPS that can correct for dirty or unreliable power, not just complete blackouts. Do you know the model name of the UPS?

 

[Helicrom]

Make sure it's a UPS that can correct for dirty or unreliable power, not just complete blackouts. Do you know the model name of the UPS?

I dont think its the proper one for this job. The model is Paco 600L.
Tell me what kind of UPS i should be looking for because i saw there are Offline, Online and Interactiv.
If they are not super expensive i will go and get one, too see if it fixes the problem and cuz in my village we get blackouts very often.
Plus that high frequency noise coming from my pc when connected to the AC power outlet is driving me crazy and the buzzing noise coming from my headphones.

 

[mikewinddale]

Plus that high frequency noise coming from my pc when connected to the AC power outlet is driving me crazy and the buzzing noise coming from my headphones.

That's definitely a problem!!! I wouldn't be surprised at all if this is the source of all your other problems too!!!

So the difference between offline, line-interactive, and online is the degree of filtering they perform, and how they switch between AC power and battery.
--- Offline UPSes run directly off AC except when the power is off, when they switch to battery. So an offline UPS provides no filtering when running off AC.
--- Online or "double-conversion" UPSes are always running off the battery, and they simultaneously recharge the battery. So online UPSes are always supplying the most highly-filtered power, because it's coming from the battery, not the AC.
--- Finally, line-interactive UPSes fall in between those two. A line-interactive UPS switches between battery and AC like an offline, but it always filters the power through the inverter, like an online.
See here and here for some guides.

Most high-end consumer-grade UPSes are line-interactive. Typically, I would recommend either the Cyberpower CP1500PFCLCD or the APC BR1500MS / BR1500MS2. (The 1500 refers to the VA rating. VA are related to watts, but they aren't the same. Cyberpower's 1500 VA is rated for 1000 watts, while APC's 1500 VA is rated for 900 watts - both of which are enough for your 750W power supply.)

But both of those UPSes are line-interactive. And given how severe your power problem sounds - high frequency noises and buzzing!!!! - I'm not sure line-interactive is enough. You might need an online UPS.

But online UPSes are harder to find, because most consumers don't need them.

I found this online/double-conversion UPS from Tripp Lite , but it's much more expensive than the Cyberpower and APC line-interactive UPSes. And this online UPS from APC is even more extravagantly expensive.

At this point, we've gotten beyond my technical knowledge. I don't know exactly how bad your power problem is, and whether you really need online/double-conversion or whether line-interactive is enough.

I'd suggest you call Cyberpower, APC, and Tripp Lite on the phone - or email their customer support - and describe your issue. Tell them about the noises you hear when you connect to AC, and ask whether they think you need online/double-conversion or whether line-interactive is enough.

Or maybe someone else on this forum knows better than I do.

 

[platipus25]

did you try not messing with the ftpm in the bios. i had bad stutering with ftpm enabled in games
enabled it to install windows 11

Hello everyone, i've been having this issue since the end of 2019 i think.. Im so done because since then i've changed every part at least once. Right now everything is brand new or few months old and no difference.
IT HAS TO BE SOFTWARE/DRIVERS/BIOS Settings or something. But i've tried already so many things from other topics and im out of ideas... Temps while gaming are 45-65*C depends on games/settings/capped fps or not.
While playing when the sttuters happen i notice my gpu usage and clock drops if that helps. Here is little benchmark https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/44405311

• Fresh installed OS, latest drivers on everything + BIOS, DDU, Game mode on/off, xbox off, power mode on High performance and some CMD settings.
• Brand new CPU,RAM,MONITOR. Tried also malware scan, adwcleaner, memtest86, memory diagnostic tool, cinebench 15, latest windows.

!!!!!!! IMPORTANT !!!! THIS IS MY SETUP NOW with a bit more fps but same stutters (everything stock): !!!!!!!!! IMPORTANT !!!!!!!!!
●CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600x + Arctic Freezer 34 Esports Duo
●GPU: Asus Dual RX 5600 XT Evo
●MTB: Asus Rog Strix B450-F Gaming (latest bios 4402)
●RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 2x8GB 3600MHz
●PSU: Corsair TX750M 80+ Gold Semi Modular
●SSD: Adata XPG SX6000 Pro 256GB M.2 PCIe (OS) + Crucial P5 500GB M.2 NVMe
●Monitor: 240hz Dell Alienware AW2521HFLA Freesync premium + Gsync
● OS: Copy of Windows 10 Pro 21H1
● AMD DRIVER: 21.6.2
●Mouse: Razer Deathadder Chroma
●Keyboard: Cooler Master Storm Quickfire TK Blue
●Headset: Kingston HyperX Cloud Stinger
●Case: Zalman N5 MF (7 fans)

THIS IS MY SETUP FROM 2020:
● CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 + Arctic Freezer 34 Esports Duo
● GPU: Gigabyte RX 580 8GB
● RAM: Kingston HyperX Predator 3000 16 GB CL15 (2 x 8 GB)
● MOBO: Gigabyte b450 Aorus M + F51
● Adata XPG SX6000 Pro 256GB M.2 PCIe (OS) + SSD Kingston A400 120gb + 1TB Seagate Barracuda 7200
● PSU: Corsair TX750M 750W + 80 Gold
● OS: Copy of Windows 10 Pro 20H2
● AMD DRIVER: 20.11.1
● MONITOR: AOC C24G1 144hz with Freesync
●Case: Zalman N5 MF