Mouse glitch driving me crazy

Toggle sidebar Toggle sidebar
Status
Not open for further replies.
4745454b

4745454b

Retired Mod
Apr 29, 2006
29,242
449
93,590
System specs should be in my profile, but quickly I'm running an Intel 3570K at stock settings, Gigabyte Z77X-UD4H, 16GBs of I think G.skill DDR3-1600 10-10-10-30 @ 1.5v, Gigabyte 7950 WF3 with 4 screens hooked up (using 2 active mDP to DVI adapters) and an Antec 750W Green powers all this. I wasn't sure what GPU(s) I was going to buy so I went big. I'm considering buying a 400-500W Gold in the future. Disks are many. I have 7 drives running right now. 2 Samsung SSDs, a Blu Ray reader, and a number of normal hdds ranging from 250-2TB. Looking to also reduce this number by buying more larger drives.

So here is the problem. My old i5-750 on a Gigabyte P55-UD4H ran great. Even used the same RAM. Not a problem. But I didn't have any SATA 3 ports or PCIe 3.0/USB 3.0. I bought my GPU first and had issues with it. I would daily lose the monitors. Only a reboot brought it back. I figured it was some bug with the difference in PCIe between card and board. When I got the new system that problem went away, but another started. My mouse "times out". You'll hear the disconnect sound, then it will reconnect and start working again. You can hear the sound as it happens every time. I've updated USB 3.0 drivers, updated the bios, upgraded and downgraded the GPU in case it relates to that. Nothing has worked. Doesn't matter if its on a USB 2 or 3 port. Happens randomly all the time. I have tried another mouse, problem continues. Both mice are the same model so if the Logitech M100 has an issue with this board that might be it. I've tried to use a USB to PS2 adapter, but I don't have a working mouse at all. I even spent last night reinstalling windows in case it was an issue cause I did the driver trick when moving boards. Still here. If I lift the mouse off the desk/pad it will force it to happen. Otherwise it just randomly times out. Any ideas at all?
 
Solution
nukemaster
When I wanted to test usb pins on my old systems, I would just meter the board on my external hard drive because it was more easy to use the probes(no comments you :0)

About the "10 pin" connector(2 x 5), i was talking about having one of these apart to apply your own power to it.
USB2-0-Af-2-Receptacle-on-Bracket-With-10-Pin-Housing-25cm-Cable.jpg


It is easy to just pull out the power wires and connect them to a molex to ensure your mouse gets all the power it needs(assuming a 5vsb issue).
Sort by date Sort by votes
Problem is it happens more or less randomly. I suppose I could hook up a volt meter and have someone else lift the mouse then put it down. Have to find a friend and my volt meter... Bad mobo and an issue with mice and USB3 ports is what I've found digging online. Someone claimed that if you turn off the USB3 ports in the bios and stay with only USB2 you won't have any issues. Not sure how much I believe that. I would think we'd know if there was an issue with Win7 and USB3. Otherwise everyone says bad board and to return it. I know I'm outside of Newegg return policy, I should still have a one year (at least) with Gigabyte. Config issue in the bios? I've also considered it might be an issue with my large number of drives. If they drawing to much power at once from a limited 5V rail and causing a power issue. I suppose to test this I could power down and pull some cords.

I haven't seen any M100 drivers. It shows up as a basic HID. I went to logitech's site and installed the software for it, but its only config software. Didn't see any drivers. On the new windows build I didn't reinstall seeing as it didn't load a driver.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Going on the above users(scout_03) post.

Many boards use the 5vsb rail on the power supply for USB. This is why you may be able to charge devices with the system OFF.

If you feel like a little modding, you can get a 10pi(only 9 pins in the connector and only 8 used) -> USB connector(normally mounted on a plate to install in an empty pci slot). Cut the power wires from it(leave the USB data[green/white most times]) and power it directly off the power supplies 5 volt rail(back and red)via molex. This will also give you an option to check the power on the molex to ensure it is working.

This would give you a USB port with as much power as the power supply can deliver(not ideal and a fuse would be ideal to prevent over current. The chances of a device pulling enough power to be an issue are almost non existent).

If this fixes it, you may have a power supply issue(or a board issue). A multimeter can only see voltage not ripple.

If you need more details, let me know.

EDIT.

My mouse and usb external drive are the only things connected to my USB 3 ports(cheap logitech LX3).

EDIT EDIT
The drives should draw most power from the 12 volt rail.

EDIT EDIT EDIT.
Can you please place the mouse on the mouse pad and wiggle the cable just in case it has some breaks(this would mean intermittent loss of contact) inside. That would cause EXACTLY this issue.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Fool it with a wake setting?http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-hardware/logitech-wireless-mouse-lx7-fails-coming-out-of/64b6f274-6e3b-4dcb-a679-f40eb6017ae5
I had a mouse with a built in timer that could not be disabled. saves the battery I was told. I had to throw it out.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Cosmin, I did that on the last Windows build, I haven't done it on this one. I do know it didn't make any difference.

Nuke, you lost me at "10pi(only 9 pins in the connector and only 8 used) -> USB connector". 10pin, is this a female USB 3.0 connector you are talking about? I didn't follow to much of what you wrote because I can't see in my head what I'm dealing with. I understood the hook up to molex part, I've done things like that before to power fans. I currently only have my keyboard, mouse, and phone hooked up to USB. My xbox controller isn't plugged in at the moment. One thing I forgot to mention is ONLY the mouse has an issue. I can keyboard just fine, and use the xbox controller to play Blur without issue. Its ONLY the mouse.

"Wiggling" the cord didn't do anything.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Beers, I'm not sure how that applies. I haven't put the new windows build to sleep yet, but I was able to use the mouse to wake it on the old one.

Now that I remember, I did have the occasional "issue" of my computer being up even though I left for work with it in sleep. At first I thought someone was breaking in only to wake my computer, but then it happened twice before I even left. Somehow even though I wasn't at the computer it thought it got a key press?
 
Upvote 0 Downvote

Ghost wake for me was "widows media center" waking my rig up because I gave it the permission to do it without realizing it. Command prompt "powercfg last wake". Try another mouse.

 
Upvote 0 Downvote
To my knowledge this is the only PC on the network. My tri plex comes with cable and net, but I'm the only thing on the network when I browse it. There shouldn't be any WOL things going on. But I'll go back into power management and turn off WOL if I can.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
No cats or kids. By myself now after my ex and I split. It's already a cheap mouse, this is the ~$10 mouse from walmart. I'll check the manual again for any power settings for USB. But I don't remember seeing any.

Edit: People at work laugh at me. I bring in photos of the changes to my "baby" to show off what I've done next. They don't understand why I would spend so much on a computer. I tell them this is what happens when a geek works 40hrs a week, and his monthly expenses are <$1k. I REALLY need to find a GF, running out of changes to make... LOL.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Upvote 0 Downvote
When I wanted to test usb pins on my old systems, I would just meter the board on my external hard drive because it was more easy to use the probes(no comments you :0)

About the "10 pin" connector(2 x 5), i was talking about having one of these apart to apply your own power to it.
USB2-0-Af-2-Receptacle-on-Bracket-With-10-Pin-Housing-25cm-Cable.jpg


It is easy to just pull out the power wires and connect them to a molex to ensure your mouse gets all the power it needs(assuming a 5vsb issue).
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Solution
Ah, now I understand. I think I even have some of those laying around. Would be USB 1 or 2, but shouldn't matter as this is only a cheap mouse. Pull the power wires out, and splice them into a molex plug. This might be something really simple to try as I should have all the parts. Molex 5V is the red one and black ground right? Yellow is 12V? Should at least rule out a power issue...
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Sweet, memory didn't fail me this time. Getting near the relaxing part of my day so now is the time to mess with this. I still don't think this is a power issue, though it should rule it out.

Edit: Got it made. I'll try it out when I get home from work tomorrow.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Status
Not open for further replies.

TRENDING THREADS

Latest posts

Moderators online

Share this page

COMPANY
RESOURCES
FOLLOW
Top Bottom