[SOLVED] My computer turns on for 5 seconds and then shuts off.

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Threepexx

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Nov 27, 2016
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I was tired one night and was about to go to sleep. Went down to the home button to turn off my pc, but accidentally pressed the restart button, and now my pc wont turn on anymore. It just turns on for about 5 sec, and my motherboards brand name comes on the monitor, then it turns off again and repeats the same process until i plug out the power cable. I've tried taking out my ram and putting it back in, and my computer worked somewhat. The pc detects that my ram has been replaced and wants me to go into BIOS boot. In the boot menu it says that I got my fully 16 gb ram there, so its nothing wrong with the ram and my motherboard, I think. But when I try booting the pc again, it wont work and does the same sht over again. I've watched some youtube videos, and they say i should try changing the motherboard battery, but I got a mini-itx motherboard and it does not have one. So im kinda helpless right now, and i would appreciate some solutions too this problem :)
 
Solution
Darkbreeze
Again, I'll say this.

500w cooler master i took from a prebuild pc long ago. Its probably about 6 years old by now.
Click to expand...

This however is almost certainly your problem. I would highly recommend addressing THIS before looking at any other potential causes.


It would be almost unheard of for a CPU that could not be, and therefore was not, overclocked, to have just suddenly failed when it was only five years or so old. In fact, most CPUs just don't die unless they are inflicted with damage through misuse or neglect, or are VERY, VERY old.

It's always possible, but the fact is there are MANY things that could trigger that CPU debug light including a lack of power delivery. Seriously, I would start with the power supply and THEN if...
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I was tired one night and was about to go to sleep. Went down to the home button to turn off my pc, but accidentally pressed the restart button, and now my pc wont turn on anymore. It just turns on for about 5 sec, and my motherboards brand name comes on the monitor, then it turns off again and repeats the same process until i plug out the power cable. I've tried taking out my ram and putting it back in, and my computer worked somewhat. The pc detects that my ram has been replaced and wants me to go into BIOS boot. In the boot menu it says that I got my fully 16 gb ram there, so its nothing wrong with the ram and my motherboard, I think. But when I try booting the pc again, it wont work and does the same sht over again. I've watched some youtube videos, and they say i should try changing the motherboard battery, but I got a mini-itx motherboard and it does not have one. So im kinda helpless right now, and i would appreciate some solutions too this problem :)
 
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Yes, it has one. ALL motherboards with a BIOS or UEFI setup program have a CMOS battery including those used in laptops. If it is a desktop motherboard from the last 15 years, or more, at least, it has one. It is doubtful that is your problem though.

I would FIRST try doing a hard reset of the BIOS, which of course is going to require that you STILL locate the location of your CMOS battery on the motherboard.

What is the EXACT model of your motherboard. Knowing ALL of the rest of your hardware specs would be helpful as well.
 
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Darkbreeze said:
Yes, it has one. ALL motherboards with a BIOS or UEFI setup program have a CMOS battery including those used in laptops. If it is a desktop motherboard from the last 15 years, or more, at least, it has one. It is doubtful that is your problem though.

I would FIRST try doing a hard reset of the BIOS, which of course is going to require that you STILL locate the location of your CMOS battery on the motherboard.

What is the EXACT model of your motherboard. Knowing ALL of the rest of your hardware specs would be helpful as well.
Click to expand...


setup:

motherboard: msi h110i pro
Gpu: GeForce gtx 1050ti
Cpu: i5 6500
Storage: 120 ssd and 1tb hdd
psu: 500w cooler master i took from a prebuild pc long ago. Its probably about 6 years old by now.
ram: 16gb corsair lpx 2x8
Tower: node 304
 
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JBAT1: Clear CMOS (Reset BIOS) Jumper
There is CMOS memory onboard that is external powered from a battery located on
the motherboard to save system configuration data. If you want to clear the system
Click to expand...

500w cooler master i took from a prebuild pc long ago. Its probably about 6 years old by now.
Click to expand...

This however is almost certainly your problem. I would highly recommend addressing THIS before looking at any other potential causes.

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...
forums.tomshardware.com forums.tomshardware.com


.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Darkbreeze said:
This however is almost certainly your problem. I would highly recommend addressing THIS before looking at any other potential causes.

Discussion - PSU recommendations and power supply discussion thread - Tom's hardware

Below you will find MY standard list of recommended power supplies and beyond that this thread is intended as a landing place for questions or discussions regarding specific units, platforms or related PSU tech, all of which are all welcome to be discussed here. If it's related to power supplies...
forums.tomshardware.com forums.tomshardware.com


.
Click to expand...


Recently noticed a red light on the motherboard that flashes red right before it shuts down. By further research i found out its the EZ Debug LED on my motherboard and the light flashes red on CPU. Might my CPU be damaged?
 
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Again, I'll say this.

500w cooler master i took from a prebuild pc long ago. Its probably about 6 years old by now.
Click to expand...

This however is almost certainly your problem. I would highly recommend addressing THIS before looking at any other potential causes.


It would be almost unheard of for a CPU that could not be, and therefore was not, overclocked, to have just suddenly failed when it was only five years or so old. In fact, most CPUs just don't die unless they are inflicted with damage through misuse or neglect, or are VERY, VERY old.

It's always possible, but the fact is there are MANY things that could trigger that CPU debug light including a lack of power delivery. Seriously, I would start with the power supply and THEN if the problem isn't fixed, then worry about trying to troubleshoot other failures. Chances are good that with what was probably a poor quality unit to begin with, or mediocre at best, and the age of the unit, that that is where your problem is. Either way, probably definitely time for a new one anyhow. This time, don't make the mistake of not going with a high quality unit, assuming that one wasn't.

Which, by the way, what IS the EXACT model of that Cooler Master unit?
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Solution
Darkbreeze said:
Again, I'll say this.



This however is almost certainly your problem. I would highly recommend addressing THIS before looking at any other potential causes.


It would be almost unheard of for a CPU that could not be, and therefore was not, overclocked, to have just suddenly failed when it was only five years or so old. In fact, most CPUs just don't die unless they are inflicted with damage through misuse or neglect, or are VERY, VERY old.

It's always possible, but the fact is there are MANY things that could trigger that CPU debug light including a lack of power delivery. Seriously, I would start with the power supply and THEN if the problem isn't fixed, then worry about trying to troubleshoot other failures. Chances are good that with what was probably a poor quality unit to begin with, or mediocre at best, and the age of the unit, that that is where your problem is. Either way, probably definitely time for a new one anyhow. This time, don't make the mistake of not going with a high quality unit, assuming that one wasn't.

Which, by the way, what IS the EXACT model of that Cooler Master unit?
Click to expand...


Alright.

I was about to upgrade by setup with a new motherboard and a ryzen processor. So I guess you would recommend me buying a new psu too. I'll have my eyes open and hope for a killer deal on black friday. Tanks for everything :)
 
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For sure. And just to help avoid making any questionable choices, I (And others I'm sure) would be perfectly willing to look at any potential parts you are considering choosing when the time comes just to make sure, and to help you, avoid choosing anything that we know might be a thorn in your side later on or a bad choice.
 
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Darkbreeze said:
For sure. And just to help avoid making any questionable choices, I (And others I'm sure) would be perfectly willing to look at any potential parts you are considering choosing when the time comes just to make sure, and to help you, avoid choosing anything that we know might be a thorn in your side later on or a bad choice.
Click to expand...


I was thinking about getting ryzen 5 3600 and Gigabyte x570 i aorus. Im also going for a new PSU, but i haven't decided yet. I need one to fit my case, because it's a small tower. Any suggestions?

I also might upgrade my GPU to something better later on, but I dont really see the point doing it right now.
 
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The Node 304 will accept any standard ATX power supply up to 160mm in length. So length is the only critical factor you'll need to look at as far as the form factor of the power supply. Some ATX PSUs will be shorter or longer, you'll just have to check the specifications for any unit you are considering.
 
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Darkbreeze said:
The Node 304 will accept any standard ATX power supply up to 160mm in length. So length is the only critical factor you'll need to look at as far as the form factor of the power supply. Some ATX PSUs will be shorter or longer, you'll just have to check the specifications for any unit you are considering.
Click to expand...


I was thinking about getting the Cooler master MasterWatt lite 600w PSU. It's 150mm in length. Do you think, the PSU being smaller than 160mm, it is a problem.
 
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No, that's a piece of crap.

It's LITERALLY the worst scoring power supply EVER on JonnyGuru from any well known name brand that I've seen.

Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 600W (230V) Power Supply – Page 6 – JonnyGURU.com

www.jonnyguru.com www.jonnyguru.com

And if you had read my PSU recommendations at the link I posted earlier, you'd have seen that because I specifically mention that fact along with a link to that unit. Worst ever. It's just another reason why Cooler Master gets no love from me for any of their hardware, especially their power supplies. Yes, they've had two or three decent models over the years, but 90% of their PSUs are plain garbage.

This unit would be ok, is fairly inexpensive and is much at least much better than the Masterwatt Lite series. It's also 150mm.

https://www.newegg.com/corsair-cx-s...&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-Fy4gxVbE7HrlAFlA_uzEGQ
 
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Darkbreeze said:
No, that's a piece of crap.

It's LITERALLY the worst scoring power supply EVER on JonnyGuru from any well known name brand that I've seen.

Cooler Master MasterWatt Lite 600W (230V) Power Supply – Page 6 – JonnyGURU.com

www.jonnyguru.com www.jonnyguru.com

And if you had read my PSU recommendations at the link I posted earlier, you'd have seen that because I specifically mention that fact along with a link to that unit. Worst ever. It's just another reason why Cooler Master gets no love from me for any of their hardware, especially their power supplies. Yes, they've had two or three decent models over the years, but 90% of their PSUs are plain garbage.

This unit would be ok, is fairly inexpensive and is much at least much better than the Masterwatt Lite series. It's also 150mm.

https://www.newegg.com/corsair-cx-series-cx550-550w/p/N82E16817139202?Item=N82E16817139202&nm_mc=AFC-RAN-COM&cm_mmc=AFC-RAN-COM&utm_medium=affiliates&utm_source=afc-PCPartPicker&AFFID=2558510&AFFNAME=PCPartPicker&ACRID=1&ASID=https://pcpartpicker.com/product/FdRFf7/corsair-cx-2017-550w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-cp-9020121-na&ranMID=44583&ranEAID=2558510&ranSiteID=8BacdVP0GFs-Fy4gxVbE7HrlAFlA_uzEGQ
Click to expand...


Alright that looks good, but I need a psu with the good old molex cables. My case fans needs one.
 
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Ok, so you mentioned the red debug light on your CPU before. Have you had the CPU out of the socket at any time since when it wasn't doing this, to where maybe something was bent or damaged when it was put back in?

Any other changes of hardware that might have caused this or maintenance inside the case prior to the PSU being changed?

Have you taken the CPU out to check for bent pins on the motherboard?

Honestly, given the age of the system and the fact that it seems this was an OEM motherboard, it could just simply be a faulty motherboard issue, especially if it just started happening out of the blue with no reason for it such as messing with hardware or upgrading anything.
 
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