[SOLVED] My CPU hits 78°C while my GPU is only at 49°C, should I be worried?

Jan 6, 2021
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CPU- Intel i7 10700f
GPU- GeForce RTX 2060

Is that abnormal, what should I do? I just want to make sure my pc is fine.

Just checked again and my CPU hit 88°C and my GPU was still at 49°C , I am worried
 
Solution
CPU- Intel i7 10700f
GPU- GeForce RTX 2060

Is that abnormal, what should I do? I just want to make sure my pc is fine.

Just checked again and my CPU hit 88°C and my GPU was still at 49°C , I am worried

I'd be concerned about the cpu being that hot, normal temps for 10700f should run you between 38c idle and nearly 60c at full load.
I suggest you go out or online buy artic mx-4, put 5 dots on the cpu once you clean off the old grease from cpu and oem heatsink.
After that it should cool down some but I suggest a water cooler if you want to over clock some.
I use a corsair h60 on my core i5 9400f with artic mx-4 and it does a really nice job...

Ringwraith34544

Commendable
Oct 17, 2020
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1,530
CPU- Intel i7 10700f
GPU- GeForce RTX 2060

Is that abnormal, what should I do? I just want to make sure my pc is fine.

Just checked again and my CPU hit 88°C and my GPU was still at 49°C , I am worried
88C is a very high temperature if you are playing games but if you are torturing your cpu with a program it is normal(maybe)
 
Jan 6, 2021
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Depends what you were doing. Without context, there's not much to say.
I was running Valorant and had a twitch stream open, but I did have my fans set to a quieter mode and when I put them back to normal my CPU temp did start to drop. I'm just confused bc my GPU temp stayed the same the entire time and hasn't risen.
 

Ringwraith34544

Commendable
Oct 17, 2020
69
0
1,530
I was running Valorant and had a twitch stream open, but I did have my fans set to a quieter mode and when I put them back to normal my CPU temp did start to drop. I'm just confused bc my GPU temp stayed the same the entire time and hasn't risen.
valorant is depending on your cpu and when you open a twitch stream you make the load more so it is normal there is a big temp difference between cpu and gpu but 78 is high but it is still safe everything under 80 is safe
 
Jan 6, 2021
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valorant is depending on your cpu and when you open a twitch stream you make the load more so it is normal there is a big temp difference between cpu and gpu but 78 is high but it is still safe everything under 80 is safe
Ok thanks, my CPU usually hits max 82, is there anything I can do right now, or show I get another fan?
 
Jan 6, 2021
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Post the full PC specs, and maybe something can be done.
CPU- Intel i7 10700F
Motherboard- HP Dorado Intel H470
GPU- 6 GB GeForce RTX 2060
Memory/Ram- HyperX Fury 32 GB (2x16BG)
SSD- PCle NVMe M.2 512GB
HDD- 1TB 7200 rpm
Power Supply- Cooler Master 500w 80 Plus Bronze ATX
OS- Windows 10 Home 64

Does this help?
 

Phaaze88

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Ambassador
The chassis' design is hindering airflow to the cpu. The gpu appears to be holding up well though.
A top-down air cooler isn't what I'd call adequate for a cpu of that caliber. [I'm assuming it's a top-down model from the images I looked up.]

Probably the best thing you can do here - period - without having to spend any money:
Windows Search > Edit power plan > Change advanced power settings > Processor power management > Maximum processor state. Set it to like 98-95%, click Apply and exit.

As for spending money, I have 3 ideas, but it's highly likely that the proprietary motherboard smacks at least 2 out of the 3 ideas to the ground for one reason or another.
It's anti consumer by trapping you into only making changes/upgrades to the PC through the company.
1)Corsair H80 or Arctic Liquid Freezer II 120. These need a couple extra headers that probably aren't present on a motherboard like that.

2)A larger air cooler should fit, but... HP doesn't disclose the available clearance for that... because they don't want you changing it - at least, not on your own, and you probably can't take out the mobo without ripping out some other cable.

3)A new, more airflow friendly chassis. That board likely has front panel connections that will not work in other chassis, making a new chassis useless.

I'm just going to strike them all out. There's just no way around what HP did.

If nothing else, the thermals you see are 'acceptable'. The edit power plan suggestion is probably the best thing you can do to get them within your comfort zone.
 

HWOC

Reputable
Jan 9, 2020
144
23
4,615
Depending on the type of connector your CPU fan has, it might be possible to change it to a higher performing model, such as Noctua NF-12Ax25. Next time when you have the case open, post a photo of the motherboard area here and we can have a look.

I have couple of Dell PC's around that have unusual 5-pin fan connectors, but I was able to get adapters from Ebay for a few bucks to fit standard fans in their place.
 
Jan 6, 2021
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The chassis' design is hindering airflow to the cpu. The gpu appears to be holding up well though.
A top-down air cooler isn't what I'd call adequate for a cpu of that caliber. [I'm assuming it's a top-down model from the images I looked up.]

Probably the best thing you can do here - period - without having to spend any money:
Windows Search > Edit power plan > Change advanced power settings > Processor power management > Maximum processor state. Set it to like 98-95%, click Apply and exit.

As for spending money, I have 3 ideas, but it's highly likely that the proprietary motherboard smacks at least 2 out of the 3 ideas to the ground for one reason or another.
It's anti consumer by trapping you into only making changes/upgrades to the PC through the company.
1)Corsair H80 or Arctic Liquid Freezer II 120. These need a couple extra headers that probably aren't present on a motherboard like that.

2)A larger air cooler should fit, but... HP doesn't disclose the available clearance for that... because they don't want you changing it - at least, not on your own, and you probably can't take out the mobo without ripping out some other cable.

3)A new, more airflow friendly chassis. That board likely has front panel connections that will not work in other chassis, making a new chassis useless.

I'm just going to strike them all out. There's just no way around what HP did.

If nothing else, the thermals you see are 'acceptable'. The edit power plan suggestion is probably the best thing you can do to get them within your comfort zone.
So you're saying if I want to make any changes I would have to do it through Dell?
 

HWOC

Reputable
Jan 9, 2020
144
23
4,615
Yes, looks like a 4-pin connector all right. Assuming that the pin order would be the same as with aftermarket fans, then you should be able to replace that fan with a better one. The main issue is how to mount it onto that heatsink. If all else fails, zipties is usually a working, although not pretty alternative. :)
Another option might be to replace the entire CPU heatsink. Hole spacing on the motherboard would have to match the spacing on the new heatsink. Not sure how comfortable you with this sort of stuff, you would have to measure the distance between the four holes on the motherboard where the heatsink is attached to. This measurement would have to match the spacing on the new CPU heatsink.
Actually, thinking about it again, the best first course of action would probably be to increase case airflow. How many (if any) fans do you have at the front of the case bringing air in? Is the fan at the back that is in the photo the only exhaust fan? You could replace that rear fan with a better one, and if you have a fan at the front, that could be also replaced, or if you have no fans at the front, but there is space for one, you could add a fan to the front.
 

Phaaze88

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So you're saying if I want to make any changes I would have to do it through Dell?
For the most part, but now that I can see a picture of the inside of an actual user's PC...
It looks like you could put a stronger cooler in there after all, but they sure went out of the way to make DIY changes/upgrades inconvenient for you...
I was right about the front panel connector thing - you definitely can't swap to another chassis.

I see one free, 4pin header at the top-right corner. What about the beneath the gpu? Could you take another pic, but at a lower angle?
I'm kinda getting ahead of myself - I don't even know if you're interested in even trying to replace anything yourself, despite the possible headache it can bring.
Plus, have you tried the edit power plan suggestion?
 
Jan 6, 2021
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For the most part, but now that I can see a picture of the inside of an actual user's PC...
It looks like you could put a stronger cooler in there after all, but they sure went out of the way to make DIY changes/upgrades inconvenient for you...
I was right about the front panel connector thing - you definitely can't swap to another chassis.

I see one free, 4pin header at the top-right corner. What about the beneath the gpu? Could you take another pic, but at a lower angle?
I'm kinda getting ahead of myself - I don't even know if you're interested in even trying to replace anything yourself, despite the possible headache it can bring.
Plus, have you tried the edit power plan suggestion?
I don't mind spending money to improving the cooling, just depends on how much but here are three more pictures of the inside.
 

Phaaze88

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Ok, you've got 2 free fan headers in there currently. A new cooler is definitely an option.
But geez, that cabling, the gpu bracket, and the front panel I/O being installed as a separate card in the bottom-right corner...

I'm telling you now: It's going to be a pain in the butt to undo that and put it back.
Are you familiar with working inside a PC? If not, do you have a buddy who is that can do it for you?

The coolers I have in mind are Corsair's H80 and Arctic's Liquid Freezer II 120. How are the prices of those to you?
I could recommend some air coolers as well, but I'd need to know how much total height(in mm) is available, and that means you'd have to remove the current cpu cooler and thermal paste, measure from the top of the cpu towards where the side panel would be if it were closed.
Then you'd have to reapply new paste and remount the current cooler.
 
Jan 6, 2021
20
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Ok, you've got 2 free fan headers in there currently. A new cooler is definitely an option.
But geez, that cabling, the gpu bracket, and the front panel I/O being installed as a separate card in the bottom-right corner...

I'm telling you now: It's going to be a pain in the butt to undo that and put it back.
Are you familiar with working inside a PC? If not, do you have a buddy who is that can do it for you?

The coolers I have in mind are Corsair's H80 and Arctic's Liquid Freezer II 120. How are the prices of those to you?
I could recommend some air coolers as well, but I'd need to know how much total height(in mm) is available, and that means you'd have to remove the current cpu cooler and thermal paste, measure from the top of the cpu towards where the side panel would be if it were closed.
Then you'd have to reapply new paste and remount the current cooler.
No I am not familiar at all with working inside a PC but yes I do know some people who could help me. So the Corsair's H80 and Arctic's Liquid Freezer II 120 are liquid coolers? Because if so I don't know how those really work, and where exactly would I install them? Would it require me to move some things around in my PC?
 

Phaaze88

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No I am not familiar at all with working inside a PC but yes I do know some people who could help me. So the Corsair's H80 and Arctic's Liquid Freezer II 120 are liquid coolers? Because if so I don't know how those really work, and where exactly would I install them? Would it require me to move some things around in my PC?
1)Great!
2)The pump inside the cpu block moves the heated liquid through one tube to the radiator, where it is cooled down by the fans, and the cooled liquid returns to the cpu block, and the cycle repeats.
3)You will install the cpu block over the same area where the current cpu cooler sits.
There's a back plate packaged with the coolers that will need to be installed behind the motherboard, which is the reason you need to take the board out in the first place.
Then there's the radiator and fans which you should install at the top as exhaust. You will need to remove that square-shaped tile at the top in picture 1/3.
You'll need 2-3 headers - which you have. 1 for pump power and control, and the other for the fan(s) - I think those packages come with splitters, so you may only need 1 header for fans.
 
Jan 6, 2021
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Oh ok, that is very helpful and I understand what you are saying. When you said the square shaped tile at the top of my PC in picture 1/3, did you mean the thing at the top left or top right? Just want clarification. So if I were to install one of those two coolers you suggested, I would pretty much need to disassemble my PC, correct? Also, this method would be more affected then just replacing the current CPU fan with a better one? Say I did what you suggested, would I have to do the same thing if I had to replace the liquid coolers a few years down the road? Sorry for asking a lot of questions, just want to make sure I completely understand.