My motherboard is becoming sus....

[RL_Blazkowikz]

It's been a while since I posted here. Glad to be back.

Anyway, a few months ago I bought new parts(motherboard, processor, RAM) to bring back my PC back to life since my good old MSI FM2+ motherboard finally gave up after six years.

New build initial specs:

ASUS B450M PRO II
AMD Ryzen 3 3200G
Kingston Fury 8GB 3200MHz
Kingmax 960GB SSD
Thermaltake TR2 S 700W 80+ White
Thermaltake Versa H13 Windowed

New build updated specs:

ASUS B450M PRO II
AMD Ryzen 3 3200G
Kingston Fury 16GB 3200MHz
Kingmax 960GB SSD
FSP HV Pro 85+ 650W 80+ Bronze
Inplay Meteor 01

The main issue about this build is everytime I boot it the first time everyday it won't turn on instantly. I had to switch the power supply on and off until it boots normally.

First suspect: Chassis

I had replaced it with a new one. Same issue exists.

Second suspect: Power supply

Replaced the power supply. Same issue exists.

Do you recommend replacing the motherboard in this case since it is still under warranty? I appreciate your responses.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Both those power supplies are very low quality, so we might go through a long laundry list of problems only to find that it's still a PSU issue in the end. It's not uncommon to end up with the same problem if a component is balking at a lack of sufficient, clean power, even after replacing one cheap or faulty unit with another cheap or faulty unit. Does that mean the PSU "IS" the issue? No. But it does mean that you should be aware that without having a known "good" quality power supply in the mix, it might be a matter of beating our heads against the wall for no reason.

What is the exact model of your memory kit?

What is your current motherboard BIOS version? Please don't say "the latest", because in about 9 out of 10 cases where somebody says that, it isn't "the latest" at all.

So, the first important question here is, since this is a micro ATX motherboard and most cases come with standoffs preinstalled (Or in some cases, a few preinstalled) for ATX motherboards, did you make sure that you ONLY have the required standoffs installed for mATX and that there are no standoffs installed that do not exactly line up with a standoff mounting hole in the motherboard, removing any other standoffs?

Are you using a power strip or surge protector or USP battery backup? If you are using ANY of those things, eliminate them, and plug directly into the wall socket. These are components that are notorious for this type of behavior.

When you say it won't "turn on instantly", what, exactly, do you mean by that? Do you mean that when you press the power button on the case nothing happens at all, or do you mean it starts but goes through several POST processes, restarting between attempts to train the memory, or that it does something else entirely? Since we are not there to see what is happening you need to be VERY explicit in explaining what is going on when trying to get help from a forum.

 

[RL_Blazkowikz]

Hi,

My memory kit's exact model is KF432C16BB/8 . As for the motherboard BIOS version, it is 3802(I flashed it myself).

And yes, I made sure to put the only required standoffs based on the mounting holes the motherboard has.

I will try to plug it directly on a wall socket since it's connected to AVR.

As for the last part, the closest was the first one.

 

[Darkbreeze]

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

And if you have not yet, it might be a really good idea to pull the CPU and make sure there are no bent pins as well as checking, triple checking, all of the items on the no post checklist at the link above.

 

[RL_Blazkowikz]

Update:

I found the culprit and it was the AVR that's causing the problem. I plugged my PC directly to the wall socket and for a few days it's working fine. Thank you, Darkbreeze for the help.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Sure thing man. My pleasure.

Here is my spiel on using power strips and such. If you choose to use one rather than plug directly into the wall, and in some cases I get it that it's necessary, you will want to read this.

Years of experience using PC systems and having to diagnose bushels full of issues where a high number of them ended up being faults with the circuitry inside the power strips. Primarily, cheap box store models but also a good number of supposedly premium power strip "surge protectors" that don't actually protect you from anything other than your own fear of what might happen if you actually end up needing a surge protector. A false sense of security.


Most people buy and use power strips because they THINK that the fact it says surge protector means something. Usually, it doesn't. This is one of my favorite quotes on the subject from an electrical engineer and residential/commercial electrical journeyman I know.

Buy a good one, but understand expensive OFTEN does not equal good.


"Monster" brand are the low end junk that are sold for a premium price. Look for what us professionals use. Tripp-lite is one of my go to absolute favorites as they have a price to quality mix that is exceptional. The Belkin brand is junk as far as I am concerned as they focus on how it looks and not how it works. APC is also another one that I will trust , but they mostly cater to data centers and Corporate customers when it comes to their quality units and they DO sell some lower end products that slot into the budget market that are not the same unquestionable quality as what they sell for professional and enterprise use.


Lastly, if you really care about your electronics, get a Whole house surge suppressor installed in your electrical panel. Only a few hundred bucks and it protects everything including the overpriced LED lightbulbs that is all the rage these days.

Units you want to consider will be those sold by APC, Tripp-Lite, Eaton, Leviton, General Electric, Polyphaser, Ditek, Siemens, ABB, Square D, Intermatic, Cutler-Hammer (Eaton), and Syscom, these are the brands you can trust to have high quality internal electronics if you MUST use a power strip but even so you STILL will want to ask around about specific models OR look to professional reviews as even these big boys occasionally have a product with some glaring flaw that makes it's way into the final product and might best be avoided compared to other available models.

Do not however use a power strip thinking that it offers significant protection, because even the best of them does not, not really. Whole house protection is the only real protection from major surges or lightning strikes. And even then, sometimes, nothing is going to save you if the strike is close enough to home.


Monster and Belkin, and a few others that are commonly used, almost unilaterally use the same protections in their 45 dollar surge protector strips as what you would find in an 8 dollar Amazon or Walmart branded model. And if you ever take one of these, or any cheap box store, dollar store (Even worse than these others usually BUT occasionally about the same) or Harbor Freight power strip apart you are likely to find frayed wires, poorly soldered connections with blobs of solder nearly touching crucial and potential short circuit points, super low quality MOVs, and a ton of other indicators that no real integrity was involved in the design or manufacturer of these units.


Another factor to keep in mind is that even with some of these high quality units, any protection that MIGHT be afforded, is usually the end of that product after one shot. This, directly from the Tripp-Lite manual for the #1 selling surge protection power strip in the world.

All models feature an internal protection that will disconnect the surge-protective component at the end of its useful life but will maintain power to the load now unprotected.

I believe many models from APC and a couple of the others I listed have now incorporated designs that permanently disengage any ability of the device to deliver power once a surge or short of significant enough caliber to incur the protection has occured. That basically means once there has been a surge or short, throw the device away. Even for high end models. Only whole house protection and properly earthed circuits offer any true protection from a serious surge or direct strike from lightning somewhere close enough to affect your segment of the grid.


And whatever you do, don't EVER buy any kind of extension cord, power strip or other electronic device with slip rings.

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