Question Need help diagnosing source of constant hangs.

[maquis]

Hello,

Starting with a timeline of what I've been dealing with and what I've done so far (system specs are at the bottom of the post):

Prior to this week, everything had been generally working fine since I built this box almost 2 years ago. For the past month, I have been doing a lot of sculpting in blender and have had some crashes, but I had run windows memory test which showed no issues, so I figured my project was just pushing the boundaries of what my computer could handle.

Tuesday morning, when I woke up, my computer was completely non-responsive while at the login screen. Due to the fact that I didn't lock the screen Monday night, I know that it must have rebooted (likely for a Windows software update) overnight.

I hit the restart button to restart Windows. It went to a screen showing the Aorus logo, and prompting me to press any key to skip disk check. It counted down for a couple seconds, and then hung hard. I restarted again, and this time it went to a windows repair screen, where it hung.

I rebooted a few more times, getting various variations of the above, but always becoming completely unresponsive pretty quickly after getting past the bios.

My initial theory was bad RAM, so I swapped in some RAM from another computer I had handy. Behavior was exactly the same. I created a windows install key drive, and booted into that to see if I could repair something. With the key drive, it seemed to generally work fine until it tried to actually make changes to my system, at which point it would immediately become unresponsive.

So, I went out and got a new samsung SSD and swapped that in for the OS drive. Still hung when I tried to install windows to the new SSD.

I moved the SATA cable for the drive to a different SATA port. Interestingly, at this point, I could run the windows installer without any hanging until the point where it needs to reboot. However, every time I did that, it gave me the error "Windoes could not prepare the computer to boot into the next phase of installation."

I tried another install media with the same result, but Google said another possible solution to that error would be to remove any other drives in the machine. So, I removed my two m.2 data drives. In the process of doing that, I had to disconnect then reconnect my graphics card.

Did that, and rebooted. Got a hang right away, but tried again. On the second time, I got past the first reboot of the installation process, and then it hung right after, when asking for some input (I don't remember what it was asking for, but it was the first step after it reboots while installing windows 11). Restarted, and it went back to the beginning of the install process (can't figure out how to pick up where it left off), and again it's hanging during the process.

Thinking back to what changed since it had been not-hanging, I tried re-seating my graphics card in case that was poorly seated or something, but that didn't fix anything. Now, the hangs are frequent again and I can't even get to the "check partitions" step of the installer without it hanging.

I also updated my bios, in case there was a bug or something there, but it seems like there must be something going on with the hardware, since it just goes into a hard hang pretty quickly.

Now, it will sometimes hang while trying to bring up the installer, and sometimes it will go to the "select your keyboard" area of the installer (the part that happens after a reboot normally), but within 2-3 minutes of me working through that, it goes into a hard hang.

Any theories as to what's going on? What would you do to diagnose/fix this??? Is this a problem with my motherboard? Or something else?


Computer specs:

Motherboard: gigabyte Aorus x570 master
CPU: Ryzen 9 5950x
GPU: RTX 3080ti
Ssd (currently): Samsung 870 1tb
Ram: 64gb (4x16gb). Not sure of brand off the top of my head and it's not open at the moment. Previously had 4x32 Corsair ram.
Power supply: Corsair hx1200

Not sure what other info would be useful here... Feel free to ask if there's anything important I'm missing! I'm feeling a bit out of my league here since I'm honestly not big into the hardware side.

Thank you for the assistance!!!

 

[Darkbreeze]

How old is that power supply? As in, how long has it been in service?

Have you tried plugging any USB devices like keyboard and mouse into different USB ports or even unplug them entirely just to see if the system still hangs at a certain point?

If possible I would try to use ANY other graphics card that is compatible regardless of how low end it might be, if you have access to one. Beg, borrow or steal one to swap in so you can try to eliminate that as the source of the problem.

 

[maquis]

How old is that power supply? As in, how long has it been in service?

Have you tried plugging any USB devices like keyboard and mouse into different USB ports or even unplug them entirely just to see if the system still hangs at a certain point?

If possible I would try to use ANY other graphics card that is compatible regardless of how low end it might be, if you have access to one. Beg, borrow or steal one to swap in so you can try to eliminate that as the source of the problem.

Power supply is from April 2022 when I built the machine. (Most components are from then). I expect it should last longer than 2 years, right?

I have changed out the mouse, and have moved mouse and keyboard to different USB ports.

I have an rtx 2080 in the kids' computer. I will cannibalize that to rule out the GPU as the source of the issue once I get a chance.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Power supply is from April 2022 when I built the machine. (Most components are from then). I expect it should last longer than 2 years, right?

I have changed out the mouse, and have moved mouse and keyboard to different USB ports.

I have an rtx 2080 in the kids' computer. I will cannibalize that to rule out the GPU as the source of the issue once I get a chance.

Yes, and that's a very good power supply so the probability of it being related is fairly low. Possible, but not likely as it might be if it were five or more years old OR a cheap quality unit.

Let me know after you try out the other graphics card, and keep in mind that sometimes especially if there are issues happening you may need to do a hard reset of the BIOS once you swap the cards out in order to force a reset of the hardware tables and ensure that the card is properly recognized and configured.


BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.

It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.

Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens.

 

[maquis]

Yes, and that's a very good power supply so the probability of it being related is fairly low. Possible, but not likely as it might be if it were five or more years old OR a cheap quality unit.

Let me know after you try out the other graphics card, and keep in mind that sometimes especially if there are issues happening you may need to do a hard reset of the BIOS once you swap the cards out in order to force a reset of the hardware tables and ensure that the card is properly recognized and configured.


BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.

It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.

Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens.

Okay, swapped the 2080 in place of the 3080ti, reset the CMOS (I used the button on the motherboard), set up the automatic defaults for the bios...

And it froze up about 30 seconds into booting.

The 7-segment display on the motherboard has been saying "9E". I don't remember if it said that back when everything was working correctly (half a week ago), but I looked that up in the motherboard manual, and all it lists is "reserved". I wasn't coming up with much with Google for this specific motherboard either.

I guess this rules out the GPU as the source of the problem. I think it also seems to make the PSU less likely, as the 2080 uses *way* less power than the 3080ti would, although it's still possible, I guess

Honestly, I'm running out of components to swap out of this machine... I haven't swapped out the PSU, motherboard or CPU. PSU is the cheapest of those components, but it *feels* like it's the least likely to be the culprit. CPU and motherboard are both expensive components, and a bit of a pain to swap out... (I am *not* a hardware person.... My experience is primarily in software!).

Thank you so much for the help and advice! I appreciate the assistance, because I feel very out of my league right now, especially with half my computer's components scattered around my home office!

 

[helper800]

Okay, swapped the 2080 in place of the 3080ti, reset the CMOS (I used the button on the motherboard), set up the automatic defaults for the bios...

And it froze up about 30 seconds into booting.

The 7-segment display on the motherboard has been saying "9E". I don't remember if it said that back when everything was working correctly (half a week ago), but I looked that up in the motherboard manual, and all it lists is "reserved". I wasn't coming up with much with Google for this specific motherboard either.

I guess this rules out the GPU as the source of the problem. I think it also seems to make the PSU less likely, as the 2080 uses *way* less power than the 3080ti would, although it's still possible, I guess

Honestly, I'm running out of components to swap out of this machine... I haven't swapped out the PSU, motherboard or CPU. PSU is the cheapest of those components, but it *feels* like it's the least likely to be the culprit. CPU and motherboard are both expensive components, and a bit of a pain to swap out... (I am *not* a hardware person.... My experience is primarily in software!).

Thank you so much for the help and advice! I appreciate the assistance, because I feel very out of my league right now, especially with half my computer's components scattered around my home office!

Personally, I would check the CPU pins and socket. If there is nothing suspect there then I would assume there is an issue with the motherboard. If you get a new motherboard and still have the same issues, then congratulations, you have a failing CPU, a rare issue indeed. I seriously doubt the PSU. When PSUs failed a PC will just shutdown immediately, no hanging involved. The only other thing I can think of is a rouge standoff screw pushing into the motherboard over the years causing either shorts that lead to the hangs or physical damage to the motherboard itself. This kind of standoff screw would be in a spot the motherboard does not have a through-hole for a screw to fasten it to the case. Motherboard and CPUs are diagnoses of exclusion, meaning that you assume they are the culprits after testing everything else.

 

[maquis]

Personally, I would check the CPU pins and socket. If there is nothing suspect there then I would assume there is an issue with the motherboard. If you get a new motherboard and still have the same issues, then congratulations, you have a failing CPU, a rare issue indeed. I seriously doubt the PSU. When PSUs failed a PC will just shutdown immediately, no hanging involved. The only other thing I can think of is a rouge standoff screw pushing into the motherboard over the years causing either shorts that lead to the hangs or physical damage to the motherboard itself. This kind of standoff screw would be in a spot the motherboard does not have a through-hole for a screw to fasten it to the case. Motherboard and CPUs are diagnoses of exclusion, meaning that you assume they are the culprits after testing everything else.

Makes sense. I figured after all this, the motherboard was probably the most likely culprit. I was just hoping it might be something less expensive!

Thanks so much for the help!

 

[Darkbreeze]

I'd have to agree, however, few more questions won't hurt.

First of all, if you built this two years ago then your motherboard should be under warranty still. Motherboard warranties are generally 3 years pretty much across the board. I wouldn't buy another board if you can get it replaced for free UNLESS of course the waiting will cause you pain and then maybe get a different board but still send that one in for RMA so that you have a backup for when one of them dies at some point down the road and for the obvious use case of troubleshooting things in the future.

I'd definitely check the CPU for bent pins. Yes, I get it that it was running fine for a couple of years, but it would not be the first time I've seen a system with a bent pin or pins that simply weren't bent all that badly, not start showing problems until some point down the road. Vibration, moving the case around or simply over time the weight of the CPU cooler itself can eventually cause it to begin having problems where it didn't have them to begin with even though the problem always existed and you just didn't know it. This is not common, but it does happen. I've seen it four or five times.

Also, memory. Ryzen is VERY finicky about memory. Did you at ANY point around the time the problems began make ANY kind of changes to hardware, to BIOS version or to BIOS settings? Even if you didn't, in some cases a configuration might work for a while and then for some reason the system decides it doesn't like something and will change the memory configuration itself which can cause problems.

Does this machine hang even if you are not trying to boot into Windows? Like, if you just go into the BIOS, will it still hang?

What are the exact model numbers of the memory kit that belongs with this system AND the memory kit that you swapped in to test it? Did you try a single DIMM from each of those kits? Did you try multiple different single DIMMs from each of those kits? And did you make sure the single DIMM was installed in the A2 slot which is the second slot to the right of the CPU socket?

On each of your 4 DIMM memory kits, did ALL of the memory from each of those kits come together in one kit or were any of them made up of multiple two DIMM kits, even if all four are the same part number but were purchased separately?

Have you pulled ALL of the drives, power and data cables (Or removed from board if M.2), and tried to see if the system still hangs without attempting to boot into Windows, IF it was hanging when you weren't trying to boot into Windows like in the BIOS or running Memtest86?

 

[maquis]

I'd have to agree, however, few more questions won't hurt.

First of all, if you built this two years ago then your motherboard should be under warranty still. Motherboard warranties are generally 3 years pretty much across the board. I wouldn't buy another board if you can get it replaced for free UNLESS of course the waiting will cause you pain and then maybe get a different board but still send that one in for RMA so that you have a backup for when one of them dies at some point down the road and for the obvious use case of troubleshooting things in the future.

I'd definitely check the CPU for bent pins. Yes, I get it that it was running fine for a couple of years, but it would not be the first time I've seen a system with a bent pin or pins that simply weren't bent all that badly, not start showing problems until some point down the road. Vibration, moving the case around or simply over time the weight of the CPU cooler itself can eventually cause it to begin having problems where it didn't have them to begin with even though the problem always existed and you just didn't know it. This is not common, but it does happen. I've seen it four or five times.

Also, memory. Ryzen is VERY finicky about memory. Did you at ANY point around the time the problems began make ANY kind of changes to hardware, to BIOS version or to BIOS settings? Even if you didn't, in some cases a configuration might work for a while and then for some reason the system decides it doesn't like something and will change the memory configuration itself which can cause problems.

Does this machine hang even if you are not trying to boot into Windows? Like, if you just go into the BIOS, will it still hang?

What are the exact model numbers of the memory kit that belongs with this system AND the memory kit that you swapped in to test it? Did you try a single DIMM from each of those kits? Did you try multiple different single DIMMs from each of those kits? And did you make sure the single DIMM was installed in the A2 slot which is the second slot to the right of the CPU socket?

On each of your 4 DIMM memory kits, did ALL of the memory from each of those kits come together in one kit or were any of them made up of multiple two DIMM kits, even if all four are the same part number but were purchased separately?

Have you pulled ALL of the drives, power and data cables (Or removed from board if M.2), and tried to see if the system still hangs without attempting to boot into Windows, IF it was hanging when you weren't trying to boot into Windows like in the BIOS or running Memtest86?

Thanks! I did contact Gigabyte earlier today to try to get a process started toward getting the motherboard replaced under warranty. I haven't heard back from them yet, but hopefully they can help me out.

I haven't checked the CPU for bent pins, so I will go ahead and check that. I was hoping not to have to mess with it so I don't accidentally damage it, but that is a good quick check.

I did not make any changes to hardware for quite a while prior to the issue showing up. I ran the windows memory test about 1-2 weeks or so before the problem started, and other than that, I believe that there may have been a Windows update overnight when the problem first started. Practically all my bios settings were at the automatic defaults. Usually, the only time I would go into the BIOS was when I was trying to change the boot order, or look at something.

The machine does not hang at all while in BIOS. It's only when I move past the BIOS, either booting to a USB key drive, or booting to the OS drive. I've tried multiple bootable USB key drives, and two different OS drives so far.

All the memory appears to be corsair memory. The original memory is Corsair Vengeance RGB. I believe the smaller memory is regular Corsair Vengeance. I haven't tried a single DIMM, but I will try that tonight. I didn't know there was a specific slot to try it in, so I will make sure to use that when I try it. I believe that the RAM came in 2-packs, but each set of 4 was purchased together in the same order. (The larger memory was purchased directly from Corsair as a gift, so I don't know how it was listed, but it all came together).

Thanks again so much for all the help with this! I've been learning a lot through this process, even if it isn't the fun way to learn. (It was much more fun learning about hardware when building this machine 2 years ago!) Hopefully some of the tests you suggested here will give a bit more information so I can get this solved soon!

 

[Darkbreeze]

So now it's a whole new situation. Does not seem to be hardware for sure then. Let's make sure.

Memtest86​

Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.

Click here to download Memtest86 USB package​

Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.


No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.

 

[maquis]

So now it's a whole new situation. Does not seem to be hardware for sure then. Let's make sure.

Memtest86​

Go to the Passmark software website and download the USB Memtest86 free version. You can do the optical disk version too if for some reason you cannot use a bootable USB flash drive.


Create bootable media using the downloaded Memtest86. Once you have done that, go into your BIOS and configure the system to boot to the USB drive that contains the Memtest86 USB media or the optical drive if using that option.


You CAN use Memtest86+, as they've recently updated the program after MANY years of no updates, but for the purpose of this guide I recommend using the Passmark version as this is a tried and true utility while I've not had the opportunity to investigate the reliability of the latest 86+ release as compared to Memtest86. Possibly, consider using Memtest86+ as simply a secondary test to Memtest86, much as Windows memory diagnostic utility and Prime95 Blend or custom modes can be used for a second opinion utility.

Click here to download Memtest86 USB package​

Create a bootable USB Flash drive:

1. Download the Windows MemTest86 USB image.

2. Right click on the downloaded file and select the "Extract to Here" option. This places the USB image and imaging tool into the current folder.

3. Run the included imageUSB tool, it should already have the image file selected and you just need to choose which connected USB drive to turn into a bootable drive. Note that this will erase all data on the drive.


No memory should ever fail to pass Memtest86 when it is at the default configuration that the system sets it at when you start out or do a clear CMOS by removing the CMOS battery for five minutes.

Best method for testing memory is to first run four passes of Memtest86, all 11 tests, WITH the memory at the default configuration. This should be done BEFORE setting the memory to the XMP profile settings. The paid version has 13 tests but the free version only has tests 1-10 and test 13. So run full passes of all 11 tests. Be sure to download the latest version of Memtest86. Memtest86+ has not been updated in MANY years. It is NO-WISE as good as regular Memtest86 from Passmark software.

If there are ANY errors, at all, then the memory configuration is not stable. Bumping the DRAM voltage up slightly may resolve that OR you may need to make adjustments to the primary timings. There are very few secondary or tertiary timings that should be altered. I can tell you about those if you are trying to tighten your memory timings.

If you cannot pass Memtest86 with the memory at the XMP configuration settings then I would recommend restoring the memory to the default JEDEC SPD of 1333/2133mhz (Depending on your platform and memory type) with everything left on the auto/default configuration and running Memtest86 over again. If it completes the four full passes without error you can try again with the XMP settings but first try bumping the DRAM voltage up once again by whatever small increment the motherboard will allow you to increase it by. If it passes, great, move on to the Prime95 testing.

If it still fails, try once again bumping the voltage if you are still within the maximum allowable voltage for your memory type and test again. If it still fails, you are likely going to need more advanced help with configuring your primary timings and should return the memory to the default configuration until you can sort it out.

If the memory will not pass Memtest86 for four passes when it IS at the stock default non-XMP configuration, even after a minor bump in voltage, then there is likely something physically wrong with one or more of the memory modules and I'd recommend running Memtest on each individual module, separately, to determine which module is causing the issue. If you find a single module that is faulty you should contact the seller or the memory manufacturer and have them replace the memory as a SET. Memory comes matched for a reason as I made clear earlier and if you let them replace only one module rather than the entire set you are back to using unmatched memory which is an open door for problems with incompatible memory.

Be aware that you SHOULD run Memtest86 to test the memory at the default, non-XMP, non-custom profile settings BEFORE ever making any changes to the memory configuration so that you will know if the problem is a setting or is a physical problem with the memory.

Interestingly, it seems to be running memtest86 without hanging. Does that rule out anything as to the source of the problem? If memtest86 completes with no errors, what would you do to fix the problem?

I've never turned on xmp in the past, and currently I'm just testing with a single stick of memory. Trying to boot with this single stick of memory in still hangs, so I figured I'd test with this.

I have approval for an RMA on the motherboard, so am planning to do that in the next day or two if i am not able to find another solution. (RMA process will leave me without a motherboard for 2 weeks, so....). I'm literally just not sure what else could be the source of the issue.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Memory often won't run without enabling it's XMP profile, other than at the very basic default and even then it may have issues. XMP defines the speed, voltage and primary, secondary and in some cases tertiary timings to be used so without it enabled, generally speaking, all bets are off. So yes, I'd enable XMP in the BIOS, save settings, exit BIOS and see if it does any better. Also, once you enable XMP if it DOES seem to do better, it would probably be a good idea to run another four full passes of Memtest86 again with XMP enabled. Lots of memory can pass at the native default speed and timings but can't at XMP and you need to know that if that's the case.

I would try this before moving on with an RMA if possible.

 

[maquis]

So do I just look online to find the correct info for the memory? It has worked fine for 2 years with xmp off, but I will happily try turning on xmp if it might solve this issue!

 

[maquis]

Ok... Figured out how to set up xmp. Got it on and with the correct info. Still only using a single ram. Hung twice when starting up into windows setup.... Trying memtest again.

 

[maquis]

Sorry for lots of posts, but just wanted to add in here that I verified that it also hangs inside a lubuntu livecd. So it does not appear to be windows-specific. It doesn't hang during grub, but it hangs within a minute of Linux starting up. So, for one reason or another, grub, memtest86 and the bios seem to be fine, but it hangs if I go further than those. Which would lead me to think about the GPU, but I have problems both with the 3080ti and the 2080.....

 

[Darkbreeze]

Ok, so, does it at default memory configuration. Does it at XMP configuration. Does it inside Windows. Does it in Ubuntu. I'm going with the board.

 

[helper800]

Ok, so, does it at default memory configuration. Does it at XMP configuration. Does it inside Windows. Does it in Ubuntu. I'm going with the board.

Agreed, motherboard seems to have some sort of issue. User error seems unlikely because the build ran for two years before issues started. @maquis update us when you get the new board from the RMA.

 

[maquis]

Sent the board in for RMA. Waited 3 weeks, until they got around to testing it. Their result is that they ran a 12 hour burn-in (whatever that means), and updated the bios (it was already at the latest bios), and everything was done on their end. So, they sent me my original board back. Not surprisingly, nothing has changed.

So, either I'm wrong and the problem is not with the board, or the problem is with the board but it's not something that their 12 hour burn-in test would detect.

Anyone know what the burn-in test involves? Do they actually connect it to a computer and boot up? Or is it just in a chassis where it doesn't actually check to make sure all the connections are working and such?

I'm honestly so frustrated right now. What next? Do I buy a different motherboard? Replace the CPU? Replace the PSU? Or do I pay to have a professional computer repair place look at the machine?

If I replace the motherboard, do I upgrade to an x670 or do I just get the closest x570 I can find? (Upgrading to x670 would require a new CPU... which would make this even more $$$$ than it already has been).

 

[maquis]

Looks like if I upgrade to an x670 motherboard, I will have to replace all my ram in addition to my CPU! Looking at trying a PSU replacement real quick, and then if that doesn't work, finding a cheap x570 motherboard that is compatible with my components. If the cheap x570 motherboard works, then I can yell at gigabyte and tell them that they need to *actually* replace my current motherboard under the warranty? Pcpartpicker shows a couple cheap x570 motherboards that might be slower than what I currently have, but should be able to support all my current components...

 

[maquis]

Well, I bought a cheap Asus motherboard, and it is *still* freezing. Tomorrow I'm going to try cannibalizing my husband's computer's CPU, and see if that fixes it. If not, I guess I may be buying a new PSU, since his PSU is a different brand/setup than mine, and I'd prefer not to have to rewire all the power cables in both of our boxes... (thankfully, someone warned me last week that different psus have different pinouts, so you can't just swap the PSU box in/out.... why aren't they standardized????)

 

[maquis]

Final update... turns out the CPU somehow went bad? Replacing the CPU has me up and running.

 

[helper800]

Final update... turns out the CPU somehow went bad? Replacing the CPU has me up and running.

Failed CPUs are rare, but not unheard of. Seen about 10-15 on this site over the years.

 

[maquis]

Thanks to everyone who helped me with this issue. I really really appreciated the help, especially since hardware is not my specialty!

Not sure if there's a way to give karma, or a way to mark the post as resolved. If either is possible, please let me know!