New Asus P8Z68-V Pro won't power on

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BGA23

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I completed my second build yesterday and when I finished I hit the power button and nothing. After going calling Asus we thought my MOBO was faulty, so I picked up a new one but I still am having the same issue - when I press power nothing happens. I'm hard pressed to think I have bought 2 faulty boards so I suspect the issue lies elsewhere.

Both the power and reset buttons are illuminated so it seems the board is getting some juice but it still won't turn on. I've tried everything from booting with no memory, no CPU, no video card and just about every combination of them and still nothing. I know my PSU still works, I unbuilt things and put my original rig back together last night and it worked fine (I'm using my original PSU, vid card and case, everything else is brand new). I have the speaker hooked up and no beeps, nothing. I've tried resetting the CMOS, several times.

Any thoughts? Is it possible my PSU isn't compatible?

ASUS P8Z68-V PRO
Intel Core i5-2500K
CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (tried both sticks separately)
OCZ StealthXStream OCZ600SXS 600W

Nothing else is hooked up at the moment.
 
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danraies

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It does seem unlikely that you get two defective motherboards. Maybe test the psu? (don't electrocute yourself...safety first) It's very strange that you get the lights on the buttons but nothing happens when you try to power up. You can also try resetting the cmos by (first removing power cables) removing the battery and switching the jumper for 15 seconds (check your manual), but that's a long shot. Only other thing I can think of is that you somehow exposed both motherboards to the same jolt of static electricity between the box and the case. Might check your ground wire, but it's another long shot.
 
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BGA23

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I've tried resetting the CMOS several times, no difference. I hooked up the second board without ever even taking it of the packaging cardboard, I was as careful as possible with it.

I'm gonna try and pick up a new PSU over the weekend, unless there are any other thoughts and see if this makes a difference. I'm thinking for some reason my current power supply just isn't playing nice with the board.
 
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neon neophyte

neon neophyte

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my first thought... is it plugged in? lol.

i mean, are all the power sockets on the board plugged in. sometimes theres more than 1.

apparently someone else in the forums with the same board had the same problem, until he realized the cmos jumper was missing. he replaced it and all worked fine.

good luck.
 
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igorjl

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Did you solve the problem?

The same thing is happening to me. Just finished mounting, turned the psu on, everything lights up, but when I press the power button, nothing happens...

I have no idea what's wrong...

The build:

Asus P8Z68 Deluxe
Intel Core i7 2600K
G-Skill F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL
MSI GeForce N460GTX Cyclone
Satellite SL-8600
 
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hoopdloop

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I have the same motherboard, and on my first attempt, I missed the fact that in addition to the normal 24-pin power connection, there is also an 8-pin supplementary power plug located at the top of the board between the DigiVRM/EPU processor and the I/O panel. Both must be connected.
 
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altus25

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Is the ram socketed in the first two channels? Very important with Intel. You have most likley two options. One, a faulty PSU you can find from the manufacturer website what pins to jumper to test it. Two, you are having a motherboard grounding iusse. Have you tried leaving the motherboard on the carpeting or wood floor and booting up?
 
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jsc

jsc

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Breadboard, yes. But not on the carpet. You can rest the motherboard on the box it came in. Then build and test in stages.

The following is an expansion of my troubleshooting tips in the breadboarding link in the "Cannot boot" thread.

I have tested the following beep patterns on Gigabyte, eVGA, and ECS motherboards. Other BIOS' may be different, but they all use a single short beep for a successful POST.

Breadboard - that will help isolate any kind of case problem you might have.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/262730-31-breadboarding

Breadboard with just motherboard, CPU & HSF, case speaker, and PSU.

Make sure you plug the CPU power cable in. The system will not boot without it.

I always breadboard a new build. It takes only a few minutes, and you know you are putting good parts in the case once you are finished.

You can turn on the PC by momentarily shorting the two pins that the case power switch goes to. You should hear a series of long, single beeps indicating memory problems. Silence indicates a problem with (in most likely order) the PSU, motherboard, or CPU. Remember, at this time, you do not have a graphics card installed so the load on your PSU will be reduced.

If no beeps:
Running fans and drives and motherboard LED's do not necessarily indicate a good PSU. In the absence of a single short beep, they also do not indicate that the system is booting.

At this point, you can sort of check the PSU. Try to borrow a known good PSU of around 550 - 600 watts. That will power just about any system with a single GPU. If you cannot do that, use a DMM to measure the voltages. Measure between the colored wires and either chassis ground or the black wires. Yellow wires should be 12 volts. Red wires: +5 volts, orange wires: +3.3 volts, blue wire : -12 volts, violet wire (standby power supply): 5 volts always on. Tolerances are +/- 5% except for the -12 volts which is +/- 10%.

The gray wire is really important. It should go from 0 to +5 volts when you turn the PSU on with the case switch. CPU needs this signal to boot.

You can turn on the PSU by completely disconnecting the PSU and using a paperclip or jumper wire to short the green wire to one of the neighboring black wires.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FWXgQSokF4&feature=youtube_gdata

A way that might be easier is to use the main power plug. Working from the back of the plug where the wires come out, use a bare paperclip to short between the green wire and one of the neighboring black wires. That will do the same thing with an installed PSU. It is also an easy way to bypass a questionable case power switch.

This checks the PSU under no load conditions, so it is not completely reliable. But if it can not pass this, it is dead. Then repeat the checks with the PSU plugged into the computer to put a load on the PSU.

If the system beeps:
If it looks like the PSU is good, install a memory stick. Boot. Beep pattern should change to one long and several short beeps indicating a missing graphics card.

Silence, long single beeps, or series of short beeps indicate a problem with the memory. If you get short beeps verify that the memory is in the appropriate motherboard slots.

Insert the video card and connect any necessary PCIe power connectors. Boot. At this point, the system should POST successfully (a single short beep). Notice that you do not need keyboard, mouse, monitor, or drives to successfully POST.
At this point, if the system doesn't work, it's either the video card or an inadequate PSU. Or rarely - the motherboard's PCIe interface.

Now start connecting the rest of the devices starting with the monitor, then keyboard and mouse, then the rest of the devices, testing after each step. It's possible that you can pass the POST with a defective video card. The POST routines can only check the video interface. It cannot check the internal parts of the video card.
 
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Wish I Was Wealthy

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I had some idiot problem happen to me that was similar to what you had. What I done was just to press the start button twice. So every time I use it,I press it once & wait for a little while,than press a second time & then it boots up into the operating system.
 
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awsmpwr

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Hi. My system was working fine for a few weeks then it suddenly stopped powering up. On the motherboard, the power on and reset button were lid up.

I had my power supply checked, which showed that the main voltage was 13v instead of 12v. The guy at the computer shop said that shouldn't be the problem but I got a new power supply anyway and try in on my set up --> No joy.

So I got a new Asus P8Z68 V Pro, using the new power supply (didn't really want to take the risk of using the old power supply, in case the 13v was the problem the shorted the MOBO in the first place), and rebuilt the system.

Now everything is work perfectly again, with new MOBO and Power supply.

CPU - i7 2600k
Graphics Asus ENGTX 460 TOP 1G
Cooler Noctua N14H
Memory - Corsair Vengeance 4G x4
MOBO - Asus P8Z68 V Pro
HDD - OCZ vertex 2 120G
HDD seagate 2Tb 7200RPM
Power supply Antec 620
 
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epiekarc

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Just got a ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe. Very similar issue. I loaded W7, started updating it, it asked to restart to apply updates, and it won't turn back on now. Sure the lights light up, I can switch the TPU and the LED turns green, but I get nothing no matter what I do. I called ASUS, they to have Newegg RMA it. Hopefully this was a fluke, but boy it doesn't sound like it.
 
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eleserv

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eleserv - Hi, I had the same problem with the Asus P8Z68 mother bds. After trying new ram, processor, as well as setting bios to default, I then picked up a second new P8Z68, but same problem!
I then used the jumper(CLRTC) to clear the CMOS. PROBLEM SOLVED!
I then did the same to the original new P8Z68 enabling it to work as well.
 
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ko888

ko888

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On the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe look on the rear I/O panel. There's no need to even open the case.

P8_Z68_Deluxe_Clear_CMOS_switch.png
 
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hanand

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ko888

ko888

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I hope you realize that the information, on that web page you linked to, is generic and is used for more than just the ASUS P8Z68 Deluxe. You're never going to find that CLRTC_SW jumper on your motherboard because there isn't one.

The only part of that web page that applies to you is:

There is a CMOS switch on the back I/O of the motherboard.
1.) Press down the “clr CMOS” switch on the back I/O.
2.) Hold down the < Del > key during the boot process and enter BIOS setup to re-enter data.

I use an ASUS P8Z68-V PRO that I know doesn't have a CLR_CMOS switch on the back I/O panel but ASUS still uses the same generic "Troubleshooting : How to clear CMOS" web page for it that you've linked to.
 
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sidgup

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I had the EXACT same problem. The mobo is NOT faulty and I got it to work.

I am posting here an excerpt from something I wrote on a different forum:

---------------
The one main problem I ran into was that I tried to turn on bare bone CPU, Mobo and RAM and it would not turn on! When the PSU was turned on, the power and reset button lights on the mobo lit up, but pressing the power button did NOT turn the PC on. I debugged for a while and it turned out the following steps were required:

1. Turn on PSU, lights lit up, but does not turn on.
2. Turn PSU off, lights still stay on for a while - basically caps are still charged.
3. In this PSU OFF setting, press the power button on the mobo once or twice - this just discharges the caps quickly and the light will fade to off.
4. Turn PSU ON - lights will come on.
5. Press power button and voila, it works!

After 5, BIOS says to press F1 to recover settings. If after that you don't turn off the PSU, i.e., "no loss of power" to the mobo, everything is good and works perfectly fine. This is probably because of the battery, must be dying OR a setting in BIOS which dictates what to do in case of "power loss". I have now set it to "last state". The board is NOT DOA! It is perfectly fine!
---------------------------------------

Once I assembled my PC in the case, and did the 5 steps above, I have not had ANY problems with this amazing mobo. I did however once to just for the sake of trying, turned the PSU off, i.e. similar to killing all power and I had to redo the 5 steps, however I *think* the permanent solution is to set the "last power state" in BIOS.

Hope it helps.

Rgds,
Sid

 
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