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Question New build won’t boot, no power indication

Dec 21, 2024
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Hi. This is my second ever build so I’m still a noob.

I’ve tried everything in here https://gamesreq.com/troubleshootin...entifying-issues-with-psu-motherboard-or-cpu/

I’m building with the x870 ice, Ryzen 9 9950x cpu, Corsair h150i elite capellix aio, Corsair vengeance DDR5 6400 32gb (I have two 32gb sticks but trying to boot with one), Kingston kc3000 m.2. 1tb and Corsair RM1000x psu. No gpu as I’m waiting for 5000 series to release.

I’m getting nothing when trying to boot, no lights, no debug codes, no display. I’ve done everything on a grounded esd mat whilst wearing a wrist band. I’ve tried inside and outside the case. The standoffs are correct and nothing is touching the back of the motherboard when it’s in the case. I’ve reseated the cpu, no film on it anywhere. I’ve reset the cmos several times and tried the reset button on motherboard and Q-flash on the IO. Even tried a new cmos battery.

Currently plugged into motherboard are the 24 pin, 2x 8 pin atx (I’ve tried one), cpu fan header and hdmi.

I’ve tested my psu with a tester and all voltages are correct. I can’t try a different cpu or ram as I don’t have any but I would expect the leds to tell me if there was a fault with them. I’ve also tried letting it memory train for around 5 mins but there’s no sign of life.

Any help would be appreciated as right now it seems like the board is dead and I’ve already sent one back for the same reason. Any questions I’ll reply asap.

Manual for motherboard https://download.gigabyte.com/FileL...1005_e.pdf?v=9141322d8c7b97a3f236a50024bdf1d9
 
Same thing with previous board, makes me wonder if it's something simple missed like case power button connector not connected to the correct motherboard pins?

The cables used came with Corsair yeah? No other cables from a different psu in the mix?
 
Same thing with previous board, makes me wonder if it's something simple missed like case power button connector not connected to the correct motherboard pins?

The cables used came with Corsair yeah? No other cables from a different psu in the mix?
It’s currently outside the case so I’m using the onboard power button and also trying the power pin short

Cables are original with new psu
 
Same thing with previous board, makes me wonder if it's something simple missed like case power button connector not connected to the correct motherboard pins?

The cables used came with Corsair yeah? No other cables from a different psu in the mix?

Only other thing i can think of atm, besides being unlucky a second time with doa board, is checking modular power cables are fully plugged both ends.
Yeah I’ve tested each cable and tried every connection. But thank you. I’ve emailed support but it’s gigabyte sooooo.
 
Use a multimeter to test the PSU.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/test-a-pow...to,is properly set for your country. See More.

AND

https://www.lifewire.com/power-supply-voltage-tolerances-2624583

Any voltages out of tolerance make the PSU very suspect.

Plus I noted in the posted image some "L.L" readings which likely indicate a PSU failure.

From the first link:

" If any voltage reads "LL" or "HH" or if the LCD screen doesn't light up at all, the power supply isn't working properly; you need to replace it."
 
Forget that nonsense, it's almost less helpful than AI answers. Try all of these.


Double check all of the no-POST checkpoints, FIRST.



Manual test PSU. PSU testers are usually really not helpful other than to determine the unit can power on and that no-load voltage is present. Does not mean it "works" or doesn't have protection problems.




Bench test motherboard.

 
Any help would be appreciated as right now it seems like the board is dead and I’ve already sent one back for the same reason.
And, did they EXPLICITLY TELL YOU that yes the board was bad and here is a brand new one, or did they just send you back the same board? Did they even SAY anything, because having gone through MANY, MANY RMA processes in the past I know for a fact that often they don't tell you a damn thing, they just send you back a replacement or the same board with no information as to any findings. Sometimes, often in fact, they'll just send you another board that might have the same or different/worse problems that is supposedly "refurbished" or "tested". In my experience, these kinds of replacements are NOT "refurbished" or "tested". I've seen at least ten or twenty, conservatively, cases on this forum alone where the "replacement" board was either also no good or was in fact the same exact board.

If what you got returned was not in a brand new condition, shrink wrapped motherboard box with no signs at all that it has ever been opened or used, I would be very suspect of this fact.
 
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Use a multimeter to test the PSU.

FYI:

https://www.lifewire.com/test-a-power-supply-using-a-power-supply-tester-2626160#:~:text=How to Use a Power Supply Tester to,is properly set for your country. See More.

AND

https://www.lifewire.com/power-supply-voltage-tolerances-2624583

Any voltages out of tolerance make the PSU very suspect.

Plus I noted in the posted image some "L.L" readings which likely indicate a PSU failure.

From the first link:

" If any voltage reads "LL" or "HH" or if the LCD screen doesn't light up at all, the power supply isn't working properly; you need to replace it."
Thanks for your reply. I thought the L.L readings are because I don’t have those cables plugged in? The bottom row is all from the 24 pin, middle figure is from atx 8 pin, other two aren’t plugged in so give null readings.

I will test again with a multimeter this afternoon. Happy holidays.
 
And, did they EXPLICITLY TELL YOU that yes the board was bad and here is a brand new one, or did they just send you back the same board? Did they even SAY anything, because having gone through MANY, MANY RMA processes in the past I know for a fact that often they don't tell you a damn thing, they just send you back a replacement or the same board with no information as to any findings. Sometimes, often in fact, they'll just send you another board that might have the same or different/worse problems that is supposedly "refurbished" or "tested". In my experience, these kinds of replacements are NOT "refurbished" or "tested". I've seen at least ten or twenty, conservatively, cases on this forum alone where the "replacement" board was either also no good or was in fact the same exact board.

If what you got returned was not in a brand new condition, shrink wrapped motherboard box with no signs at all that it has ever been opened or used, I would be very suspect of this fact.
Sorry for the confusion. I bought another board because I wasn’t going to wait for the first to be tested and whatever else. So this second board is another brand new one. Both from Amazon.

Happy holidays.
 
Forget that nonsense, it's almost less helpful than AI answers. Try all of these.


Double check all of the no-POST checkpoints, FIRST.



Manual test PSU. PSU testers are usually really not helpful other than to determine the unit can power on and that no-load voltage is present. Does not mean it "works" or doesn't have protection problems.




Bench test motherboard.

Thank you I’ll do all of this later today. Happy holidays.
 
I'd also try powering on, which is outlined in the bench test guide, without that M.2 drive installed just in case there's an issue with the drive. And then also with NO memory installed, just to see if it makes a difference on showing that there's power to the board.
 
Forget that nonsense, it's almost less helpful than AI answers. Try all of these.


Double check all of the no-POST checkpoints, FIRST.



Manual test PSU. PSU testers are usually really not helpful other than to determine the unit can power on and that no-load voltage is present. Does not mean it "works" or doesn't have protection problems.




Bench test motherboard.

In one of your other replies you mentioned booting without any drives or ram, I already tried that and still no motherboard lights. So either psu or motherboard are to blame.

So. I haven’t used a multimeter in a long time. I’ve watched different videos to triple check my settings and application.

The ac plug going from the outlet to the psu should read 230-250V AC, I get 246V so that’s fine.

When I test each pin according to the corsair guide and diagram I get 0.0V from each pin. I’m definitely touching metal connections on each pin but none of them give any voltage. I’m using each DC V setting just in case but 20V should be the correct option.

I know you say to disregard it but the power supply tester tells me that the 12V supply is correct on both sides. I agree that the testers that simply light up to indicate power are only as useful as the paperclip test but mine shows individual voltages.

So from the multimeter readings it looks like it would be the 24 pin adaptor. I’ll order a new one from Corsair.