New Gaming PC Build from Newegg

[Frankenstein606]

Hello there, I have a question about a custom gaming build I plan on doing in the near future from Newegg.

I've never built a custom PC before but I'm a huge gamer and I'm sick of buying a stock $600 medium-grade PC every 2 or so years. It's time to invest some effort and money.

So I know a good bit about parts and such but I'm certain there are people on here that know A LOT more than I do.

Here's my wish list: https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.aspx?ID=22496625

Also, In there is a monitor that I plan on buying to go with the monitor I already have (both monitors are exactly the same). I plan on having a dual screen set-up.

Please check it out and let me know what I've done wrong/what I could do better.

Thanks

 

[X79]

Could you post the parts here perhaps?

Requires a user to check the link...

 

[Frankenstein606]

Oh, I'm sorry I though the link was public.
Here's the parts-

Case: Rosewill THOR V2 Gaming ATX Full Tower
Motherboard ASUS Sabertooth Z77
GPU: (2x) MSI GTX 780
CPU: Intel i7 3770K
CPU Cooling: CORSAIR Hydro Series H80
Power Supply: Rosewill TACHYON-1000w
Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 2TB
SSD: Crucial M4 512GB
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB)
DVD: ASUS 24X DVD Burner

Monitors: (x2) LG 23" LED Monitor (I already own 1)
Keyboard: Rosewill Illuminated Mechanical Gaming Keyboard
Mouse: RAZER Orochi 2013

 

[X79]

Okay so I voted for "you can do better".

1 - I'm more into Cooler Master (CM) cases like the HAF X or NZXT Phantom stuff.

2 - Sabertooth is a bit too high-end a motherboard I think. A B75 motherboard would be better if you're not OC'ing.

3 - Get an i5 CPU and K for OC'ing or no K if you're not OC'ing.

4 - Only 1 GPU. SLI/CF is not a point you want to start at, usually.

5 - You won't need extra cooling if you don't OC.

6 - You can lower the PSU a little. Perhaps 650W-700W, if you take 1 GPU away. Also don't go for Rosewill and keep it 80+ bronze/silver etc.

7 - You can go for a 1TB 7200RPM HDD and then one 128GB SSD for a balance of speed and storage.

8 - NOT 512GB SSD! (Unless you're swimming in cash or something). Too expensive as of yet, per GB.

9 - Only 8GB RAM is needed for gaming and 1600Mhz is the sweetpot.

10 - There's lesser optical drives that'll do you just as well.

11 - Check out the K90 keyboard from Corsair.

 

[Frankenstein606]

Okay so I voted for "you can do better".

1 - I'm more into Cooler Master (CM) cases like the HAF X or NZXT Phantom stuff.

2 - Sabertooth is a bit too high-end a motherboard I think. A B75 motherboard would be better if you're not OC'ing.

3 - Get an i5 CPU and K for OC'ing or no K if you're not OC'ing.

4 - Only 1 GPU. SLI/CF is not a point you want to start at, usually.

5 - You won't need extra cooling if you don't OC.

6 - You can lower the PSU a little. Perhaps 650W-700W, if you take 1 GPU away. Also don't go for Rosewill and keep it 80+ bronze/silver etc.

7 - You can go for a 1TB 7200RPM HDD and then one 128GB SSD for a balance of speed and storage.

8 - NOT 512GB SSD! (Unless you're swimming in cash or something). Too expensive as of yet, per GB.

9 - Only 8GB RAM is needed for gaming and 1600Mhz is the sweetpot.

10 - There's lesser optical drives that'll do you just as well.

11 - Check out the K90 keyboard from Corsair.

1- I like the HAF series but after lookng through the sizes and the specs I like the Rosewill. Plus my friends have had good experiences with Rosewill products. Also it's a simple case, and I like simple.

2- I actually plan on overclocking. I know it's my first time and I understand there is a high risk over error, but I've decided I'm going balls-out.

3- I've actually heard this a lot. But for some reason my brain just tells me, "go all out! i7K woo!". What's the difference between an i5 and an i7? I assume there's only an improvement when going with the i7.

4- Again, my brain...haha. But yes after thinking about it I don't think I'll need much more than a 780. If anything I'll just trash the 780 idea and just throw one of the GTX Titan's in there. It would be cheaper than two 780's anyways.

5- Again, repeating myself (my bad) but I plan to OC.

6- What PSU would you recommend now that I've decided to run only 1 GPU?

7- So 1TB + 128GB SSD would be faster than a 2TB + 512GB? Could you explain a little please? (Newb)

8- So besides the price of the 512, what are the negatives?

9- I assume 8gb would be great for gaming but I also plan on using the PC for many things such as editing, music, 3d modeling and stuff like that. If I'm doing all of this is 16gb sufficient or do I have to go 32gb? Thanks.

10- The price of the optical drive isn't really a big deal, I just prefer ASUS for little things like that. Just a strange personal preference that I've gained over a year or so.

11- It's a nice keyboard but honestly It looks a little strange to use. I like the simplicity of the Rosewill, and the LED functions are also simple and great.

Thanks for such an in depth reply and I hope we can continue the discussion so I can figure out my rig.

 

[X79]

1 - That's fair enough.

2 - That's fair enough too.

3 - The difference between an i7 and i5 is that the i7 has a technology called HT (Hyper-Threading). It takes the number of cores, 4 in the

this and doubled it to 8. Meaning you've got 4 physical and 4 virtual cores. This makes the i7 good for when dealing with heavily threaded

applications and for editing software. The i7 does perform better, but the reason it's so often ill-advised, is that you'll pay several hundred

dollars more and get very marginal returns. This is why the i5 is the sweetspot, as it already has 4 cores. Games can run fine on at least

dual-core setups, but quad-core will become increasingly necessary. So it's in the interest of saving money, because afterall, if yo're into

games that much anyway, what's usually more important? The CPU or GPU? Usually it's the GPU. Thus you can get the optimum

performance for the money and then sink the money you would've used on an i7, into a better GPU, thus netting a better result for the

same money. You can get extreme edition i7s where the only difference between them and their lower 3570K i7s, is that they have a

300Mhz clock and a few more MB L3 or L2 cache. But they can cost up to a thousand $ or something crazy like that. For what? A few FPS

difference? Now that's diminishing returns if I ever saw it, using that much money and not seeing a SUBSTANTIAL performance boost.

In your case, since you're into editing and such, I wouldn't be too averse to you getting an i7.

4 - Same deal as before. Titan, massive cost, low-returns. That's in fact what the GTX 780 set out to counter. It provides much of the same

power of the Titan, as it's still using a GK110 GPU, but with a little less of things like CUDA cores (proprietary Nvidia tech). BUT it also does

so at a much cheaper price point. There's also cheaper cards in SLI which beat the Titan. So I think it's a bad investment. My policy is get

what you need (and you won't need a Titan/SLI GTX 780) unless perhaps you're running several monitors. You're better off getting a GTX

770 or 780 now and then upgrading again when you feel you need it. Thus you'll save money and the money saved, can be used to

incrementally upgrade your rig, rather than splash once and then never again for a long time.

5 - Have fun.

6 - Something Corsair perhaps, at 650W-700W, depending on the rest of your setup.

7 - Be my guest and go with a 512GB SSD. But as I said, it's hugely expensive and a waste of money by most peoples standards. You're

welcome to do what you feel is best however. I prefer 1TB to 1.5TB and 128GB or 256GB tops. If I need more storage, I add more HDDs,

instead of increasing the size of individual HDDs. Adds more redundancy in case of failures and so forth. Sort of like not putting all your eggs

in one basket.

8 - Mostly it's the price alone really and the thought that you could be spending the cash on things more worthwhile. Up to you .

9 - Well since you're editing too, 16GB will feel nice. 8GB is the "recommended" while 4GB is the minimum. At least for things like PhotoShop

I believe. Very rarely will you ever need 32GB or more. Check my signature.

10 - Asus is good too.

11 - Fair enough. It's personal preference.

By the way if you're using 3D modelling software and it's stuff like 3ds Max, you'll usually need a Pro edition of Windows I believe.

You're welcome mate.

 

[Frankenstein606]

So I've come to the conclusion that spending $3,500 on a gaming rig is too much as of now.

I need to spend $1,000-$2,000 MAX. I need to spend the least amount of money while still being able to play on high settings with crisp movement and be able to do my graphics stuff.
So basically if anyone wants to put together a list of hardware that can accomplish this please feel free.

Basically what I'm looking for:
-Being able to run dual monitors crisp and cleanly
-Dual GTX graphics cards for high performance and overclocking.
-Intel chipset preferable i7.
-Nice gaming motherboard
-Nice mid-full tower
-8-16gb of ram, preferably 16

Pretty much just make the most badass gaming/graphics PC you can think of for the cheapest amount of dough.

Go!

...Thanks.

 

[X79]

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($78.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair XMS3 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($115.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($94.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($653.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF X ATX Full Tower Case ($179.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic X Series 850W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($164.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($17.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($87.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1899.85
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-06 05:47 EDT-0400)


Check the price in this link too, as it doesn't always display correctly otherwise:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/13xuK


If you want SLI (even though not required most likely) then you should change the GPU

to a less expensive one. Then the PSU will probably also be more than enough. So you

can change those two things. SLI isn't necessarily the best for games either.

 

[Frankenstein606]

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($279.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($78.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair XMS3 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($115.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($94.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($64.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 780 3GB Video Card ($653.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF X ATX Full Tower Case ($179.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: SeaSonic X Series 850W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($164.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($17.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($87.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $1899.85
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-06 05:47 EDT-0400)


Check the price in this link too, as it doesn't always display correctly otherwise:

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/13xuK


If you want SLI (even though not required most likely) then you should change the GPU

to a less expensive one. Then the PSU will probably also be more than enough. So you

can change those two things. SLI isn't necessarily the best for games either.

Ok, thank you for getting back to me quickly X79 you've been a big help.
I'll get the rest of the money together and start purchasing/building.

Thanks!

 

[X79]

You're welcome.

I would recommend searching for a PSU that is "Haswell certified" if you can however.

Because Haswell certified PSUs will be sure to work at the very low idle voltages; whereas

other PSUs won't as much. If you also only stick to the 780, you can also lower the Watts on the

PSU a bit I'm sure.

Take care.