Question New PC build shutdowns (likely because of the power)

[AntonTokar]

Hi!

This is my setup.
Motherboard: B550M PRO-VDH WIFI
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5GHz
CPU FAN: Be Quiet Pure Rock 2
GPU: PNY GeForce RTX 3070 8GB GDDR6 UPRISING Dual Fan
PSU: Corsair TX-M Series TX650M 650W
SSD: Silicon Power P34A60 SSD 1TB M.2 NVMe PCI Express 3.0
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16GB DDR4 RAM with 2 Modules (2x8GB) and Speed 3200
Monitor: Dell 1440p 75hz

The problem is that the PC randomly shuts down in the games.

All sensonrs are just fine, no overhitting.
Here is the log (tracks every second the last second just before the moment of the shutdown in the game)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1n38qv1UnJTI_V6-_ADCZkctJXPWuE6okSsqCvp9kDtc/edit?usp=sharing
You can see that the temperature is fine on the ultra+ settings, 75fps and 1440p.

The strange thing is that I can play games normally in the technician offices, but at home I have shutdowns. Maybe because my flat has sometimes low voltage...

Do you need to

1. get a more powerful PSU?
2. get a voltage stabilizer?
3. anything else? maybe the GPU is the problem. (but it works well during any benchmarks, only in games there is a problem)

or motherboard...
Just using a browser or playing games on low settings -> I can do it for hours, with no shutdowns.

Also, an interesting fact is that I can play for about 15 minutes -> the PC shuts down and turn on automatically -> and then I can't play even 1 min because now the PC shuts down much faster.
(and it is not overheating)

 

[Roland Of Gilead]

Hey there,

Are you OC'ing any components? If so, run at stock. Try PBO on/off. What bios are you running? You should be running 7C95v2C bios.

How old is the PSU? New one 2021 model? The newer model is a bit better.

Your mobo also has a basic power phase set up. Running with just 4+2. Your VRM's may get very hot if you are OC'ing the CPU, so not advisable.

 

[drivinfast247]

Hi!

This is my setup.
Motherboard: B550M PRO-VDH WIFI
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600 3.5GHz
CPU FAN: Be Quiet Pure Rock 2
GPU: PNY GeForce RTX 3070 8GB GDDR6 UPRISING Dual Fan
PSU: Corsair TX-M Series TX650M 650W
SSD: Silicon Power P34A60 SSD 1TB M.2 NVMe PCI Express 3.0
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V 16GB DDR4 RAM with 2 Modules (2x8GB) and Speed 3200
Monitor: Dell 1440p 75hz

The problem is that the PC randomly shuts down in the games.

All sensonrs are just fine, no overhitting.
Here is the log (tracks every second the last second just before the moment of the shutdown in the game)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1n38qv1UnJTI_V6-_ADCZkctJXPWuE6okSsqCvp9kDtc/edit?usp=sharing
You can see that the temperature is fine on the ultra+ settings, 75fps and 1440p.

The strange thing is that I can play games normally in the technician offices, but at home I have shutdowns. Maybe because my flat has sometimes low voltage...

Do you need to

1. get a more powerful PSU?
2. get a voltage stabilizer?
3. anything else? maybe the GPU is the problem. (but it works well during any benchmarks, only in games there is a problem)

or motherboard...
Just using a browser or playing games on low settings -> I can do it for hours, with no shutdowns.

Also, an interesting fact is that I can play for about 15 minutes -> the PC shuts down and turn on automatically -> and then I can't play even 1 min because now the PC shuts down much faster.
(and it is not overheating)

If it works without issue at another location but shuts off only in your home, you probably have voltage/power issues.

 

[AntonTokar]

Hey there,

Are you OC'ing any components? If so, run at stock. Try PBO on/off. What bios are you running? You should be running 7C95v2C bios.

How old is the PSU? New one 2021 model? The newer model is a bit better.

Your mobo also has a basic power phase set up. Running with just 4+2. Your VRM's may get very hot if you are OC'ing the CPU, so not advisable.

no OC. everything is up to date. bios are the latest from the MSI website. all drivers and utilities are updated for everything.
I built a PC just a couple of days ago.
I'm not sure how old is this PSU, I've just bought it.
On the box, there is "2016-2018 Corsair Inc.".

 

[AntonTokar]

If it works without issue at another location but shuts off only in your home, you probably have voltage issues.

okay. how can I fix it for this flat?

 

[DSzymborski]

okay. how can I fix it for this flat?

An electrician.

 

[AntonTokar]

An electrician.

any other options? a voltage stabilizer?

 

[Roland Of Gilead]

When you did the bios update, did you clear CMOS? If not, do that just to be sure and rule it out.

The older model TXM, may not be quite enough for the 3070, although really should be. It's a pretty solid PSU.

Yes, if it's a case that you have an issue with power in your home, then maybe that's the route to follow.

 

[AntonTokar]

When you did the bios update, did you clear CMOS? If not, do that just to be sure and rule it out.

The older model TXM, may not be quite enough for the 3070, although really should be. It's a pretty solid PSU.

Yes, if it's a case that you have an issue with power in your home, then maybe that's the route to follow.

Update!

I'm keeping track of GPU watts consumption now.
And I'm trying to keep it around 100w. so the PC never shuts down with these watts.

So, you are right.

What do I do now?

1. Change PSU to something more powerful? 850, better 1000w.
2. or find a stabilizer to guarantee that PSU has 220v input (standard here) so PSU can deliver promised 650w.

(becasue for many people from forums 650w is enouhgh for rtx3070 and even for rtx3080).
3. maybe also GPU is to blame, I think we cannot exclude its guilt yet.

I've not cleared SMOS, btw. I'm not sure I need to do that. I have not changed things in bios. but I've used "reset to default" during my discoveries. I gues it does the same as removing the mobo battery.

 

[drivinfast247]

Update!

I'm keeping track of GPU watts consumption now.
And I'm trying to keep it around 100w. so the PC never shuts down with these watts.

So, you are right.

What do I do now?

1. Change PSU to something more powerful? 850, better 1000w.
2. or find a stabilizer to guarantee that PSU has 220v input (standard here) so PSU can deliver promised 650w.

(becasue for many people from forums 650w is enouhgh for rtx3070 and even for rtx3080).
3. maybe also GPU is to blame, I think we cannot exclude its guilt yet.

I've not cleared SMOS, btw. I'm not sure I need to do that. I have not changed things in bios. but I've used "reset to default" during my discoveries. I gues it does the same as removing the mobo battery.

850 would be best bet. The price difference between a quality 650 and 850 is negligible. But it doesn't matter the PSU if you have an electrical issue.

 

[Roland Of Gilead]

Agree with @drivinfast247 , a decent 650/750/850 are worth considering if they are close in price. A good RMX650w would be great with your build. A 750w give more clearance for a more power hungry GPU.

Power stabiliser might help.

Clearing CMOS is very important. It is not enough to 'reset defaults'. If you don't old remnant microcode can remain and cause bugs like this. It's REALLY important.

 

[rcald2000]

AntonTokar Hello, and sorry that you're experiencing this problem. I've read all of the responses above and agree that it's entirely possible that the voltage in your flat is different than that of the office that you mentioned. If so, a Sine wave UPS would solve this problem, but the starting cost of one is a hefty $200 USD. To locate one, simply search "sine wave ups" on either amazon or newegg. But please be prepared to the fact that the issue may not be with your home's electrical, so this purchase may be wasted.

You could also check your flat's voltage with an "outlet tester", which I searched on Home Depot. I personally have no experience using one, nor am I an electrician, but I assume that they are simple enough to use.

GFCI Electrical Outlet Tester with LCD
$20.97
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-GFCI-Electrical-Outlet-Tester-with-LCD-RT250/313832938

Theory 2:

However, I believe it's also possible that both location's voltages are slightly dissimilar but also both within spec. If true, that could still indicate a problem with your power supply, after-all.

Question: Do you have a PC power supply that you could borrow from someone to test your setup? If not, you could of course purchase a new one. 1st selection is a traditional PSU, and the 2nd option has one of the new ATX 3.0/PCIe 5.0 power supplies with the 600 watt connector, that might come in hand for future graphics cards. Also, keep in mind that your existing power supply probably has a warranty length of 5-7 years. If you suspect the power supply is at fault, then it's probably worth opening a ticket with Corsair for your TX model.

Corsair RMx Series (2021), RM850x, 850 Watt, GOLD, Fully Modular Power Supply (CP-9020200-NA)
$139.97
https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rmx-series-rm850x-cp-9020200-na-850w/p/N82E16817139272

MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 W ATX / ATX (ATX 3.0 Compatible) 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply
$159.99
https://www.newegg.com/msi-mpg-a850g-pcie5-850-w/p/N82E16817701017

Solutions listed from cheapest to most expensive: (1) open ticket with Corsair (free) -> outlet test ($20) -> PSU ($80 - $160) -> Sine wave UPS ($200+)

 

[AntonTokar]

AntonTokar Hello, and sorry that you're experiencing this problem. I've read all of the responses above and agree that it's entirely possible that the voltage in your flat is different than that of the office that you mentioned. If so, a Sine wave UPS would solve this problem, but the starting cost of one is a hefty $200 USD. To locate one, simply search "sine wave ups" on either amazon or newegg. But please be prepared to the fact that the issue is not your home's electrical, so this purchase may be wasted.

You could also check your flat's voltage with an "outlet tester", which I search on Home Depot. I personally have no experience using one, nor am I an electrician, but I assume that they are simple enough to use.

GFCI Electrical Outlet Tester with LCD
$20.97
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-GFCI-Electrical-Outlet-Tester-with-LCD-RT250/313832938

Theory 2:

However, I believe it's also possible that both location's voltages are slightly dissimilar but also both within spec. If true, that could still indicate a problem with your power supply, after-all.

Question: Do you have a PC power supply that you could borrow from someone to test your setup? If not, you could of course purchase a new one. 1st selection is a traditional PSU, and the 2nd option has one of the new ATX 3.0/PCIe 5.0 power supplies with the 600 watt connector, that might come in hand for future graphics cards. Also, keep in mind that your existing power supply probably has a warranty length of 5-7 years. If you suspect the power supply is at fault, then it's probably worth opening a ticket with Corsair for your TX model.

Corsair RMx Series (2021), RM850x, 850 Watt, GOLD, Fully Modular Power Supply (CP-9020200-NA)
$139.97
https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rmx-series-rm850x-cp-9020200-na-850w/p/N82E16817139272

MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 W ATX / ATX (ATX 3.0 Compatible) 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply
$159.99
https://www.newegg.com/msi-mpg-a850g-pcie5-850-w/p/N82E16817701017

Solutions listed from cheapest to most expensive: (1) open ticket with Corsair (free) -> outlet test ($20) -> PSU ($80 - $160) -> Sine wave UPS ($200+)

Thank you for the extended advice!
I'll try to measure voltage in the flat,
also, I'm going to borrow 750 or 850 PSU for testing.

About the first option, Ticket with Corsair,
how can it help? I thought that they can only replace the deficient PSU with the same PSU (650w again).
Or they could do something else?

BTW
I have Corsair 4000d AirFlow PC case. The tempered glass exploded to pieces when I first tried to open the case (did everything right as per their instructions). I created a ticket. A week passed from that moment and they even haven't replied.

 

[AntonTokar]

AntonTokar Hello, and sorry that you're experiencing this problem. I've read all of the responses above and agree that it's entirely possible that the voltage in your flat is different than that of the office that you mentioned. If so, a Sine wave UPS would solve this problem, but the starting cost of one is a hefty $200 USD. To locate one, simply search "sine wave ups" on either amazon or newegg. But please be prepared to the fact that the issue may not be with your home's electrical, so this purchase may be wasted.

You could also check your flat's voltage with an "outlet tester", which I searched on Home Depot. I personally have no experience using one, nor am I an electrician, but I assume that they are simple enough to use.

GFCI Electrical Outlet Tester with LCD
$20.97
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-GFCI-Electrical-Outlet-Tester-with-LCD-RT250/313832938

Theory 2:

However, I believe it's also possible that both location's voltages are slightly dissimilar but also both within spec. If true, that could still indicate a problem with your power supply, after-all.

Question: Do you have a PC power supply that you could borrow from someone to test your setup? If not, you could of course purchase a new one. 1st selection is a traditional PSU, and the 2nd option has one of the new ATX 3.0/PCIe 5.0 power supplies with the 600 watt connector, that might come in hand for future graphics cards. Also, keep in mind that your existing power supply probably has a warranty length of 5-7 years. If you suspect the power supply is at fault, then it's probably worth opening a ticket with Corsair for your TX model.

Corsair RMx Series (2021), RM850x, 850 Watt, GOLD, Fully Modular Power Supply (CP-9020200-NA)
$139.97
https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rmx-series-rm850x-cp-9020200-na-850w/p/N82E16817139272

MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 W ATX / ATX (ATX 3.0 Compatible) 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply
$159.99
https://www.newegg.com/msi-mpg-a850g-pcie5-850-w/p/N82E16817701017

Solutions listed from cheapest to most expensive: (1) open ticket with Corsair (free) -> outlet test ($20) -> PSU ($80 - $160) -> Sine wave UPS ($200+)

UPDATE

When I turn on Air Conditioner - during the game PC shuts down.

So I'm not sure if stabilizer would help.

I'm almost sure that more powerfull PSU would not help because it would need even more power to work.

 

[AntonTokar]

so. today I cannot play even with GPU consuming less than 100 watts,
so, I can say that it is not a PSU fault due to spikes.


Looks like there is just not enough energy.
Since it is colder now here, and our flat and other flats turn on Air Conditioners...


So, my only hope is a power stabilizer...
That would guarantee me 1200 watts by squeezing it from the net.

I'm considering this device
Σταθεροποιητής - Ρυθμιστής τάσης 2000VA ψηφιακός Servo (SDC) Kebo

www.cosmodata.gr

(sorry for not sending at least Amazon link,
here in Greece not many products are available and the ones that available are not sold on Amazon and outside Greece)


UPDATE:
Ordered this one

StudioMao

StudioMao :: Ηχοσυστήματα αυτοκινήτου και ηλεκτρονικά είδη σε τεράστια ποικιλία και μοναδικές τιμές

www.studiomao.gr

 

[AntonTokar]

AntonTokar Hello, and sorry that you're experiencing this problem. I've read all of the responses above and agree that it's entirely possible that the voltage in your flat is different than that of the office that you mentioned. If so, a Sine wave UPS would solve this problem, but the starting cost of one is a hefty $200 USD. To locate one, simply search "sine wave ups" on either amazon or newegg. But please be prepared to the fact that the issue may not be with your home's electrical, so this purchase may be wasted.

You could also check your flat's voltage with an "outlet tester", which I searched on Home Depot. I personally have no experience using one, nor am I an electrician, but I assume that they are simple enough to use.

GFCI Electrical Outlet Tester with LCD
$20.97
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-GFCI-Electrical-Outlet-Tester-with-LCD-RT250/313832938

Theory 2:

However, I believe it's also possible that both location's voltages are slightly dissimilar but also both within spec. If true, that could still indicate a problem with your power supply, after-all.

Question: Do you have a PC power supply that you could borrow from someone to test your setup? If not, you could of course purchase a new one. 1st selection is a traditional PSU, and the 2nd option has one of the new ATX 3.0/PCIe 5.0 power supplies with the 600 watt connector, that might come in hand for future graphics cards. Also, keep in mind that your existing power supply probably has a warranty length of 5-7 years. If you suspect the power supply is at fault, then it's probably worth opening a ticket with Corsair for your TX model.

Corsair RMx Series (2021), RM850x, 850 Watt, GOLD, Fully Modular Power Supply (CP-9020200-NA)
$139.97
https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rmx-series-rm850x-cp-9020200-na-850w/p/N82E16817139272

MSI MPG A850G PCIE5 850 W ATX / ATX (ATX 3.0 Compatible) 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply
$159.99
https://www.newegg.com/msi-mpg-a850g-pcie5-850-w/p/N82E16817701017

Solutions listed from cheapest to most expensive: (1) open ticket with Corsair (free) -> outlet test ($20) -> PSU ($80 - $160) -> Sine wave UPS ($200+)

Hi! I have an update!

So, I got a voltage stabilizer.
It has a display, and now I see that shutdowns are not connected to low/high-voltage spikes.

Also, I've got a socket with a display to see the power consumption.
And I see that in games the maximum consumption is 350w.

The last PC shutdown was when the consumption was just 280w...


So, now I'm fully confused about what is going on.

 

[rcald2000]

So if you're sure the issue isn't with your flat's electrical, then I assume that your power supply may be the culprit. Were you ever able to borrow and install a different power supply?

 

[AntonTokar]

So if you're sure the issue isn't with your flat's electrical, then I assume that your power supply may be the culprit. Were you ever able to borrow and install a different power supply?

This is not funny anymore...

I've bought and installed a new PSU.
Corsair RM1000x 1000w (2021)

And the PC shuts down again (not even with problem #2 with high settings in the latest games,
but again (!) problem #1 when it shuts down always, not in games, but every minute).

I even don't have time to launch a game...

So, the problem is not power spikes in GPU and insufficient PSU.
And not drivers.

It looks like I moved something a bit in the setup and again I have this problem I don't know how to help with.
Maybe the adapter cable that goes in between PSU PCIe 6+2pin and RTX3700 12pin,
maybe a broken socket in GPU, or Mobo...

It looks like I'd need to buy each component, one by one,
until I replace the whole system and then it might work...

 

[AntonTokar]

update.

now I cannot enter even windows.
stuck at BIOS,

and (!) PC shuts down even BIOS now, in less than a minute after entering BIOS