Question New pc shut off and can not power on into the bios or windows

[JennyDeath34]

I built a pc 3 weeks ago and have been using it since, then in the middle of playing games a few days ago my pc shut off and now is stuck in a bootloop where it will power on for a few seconds, power off, then try to power on again. I can’t get a display on screen, and i cant boot into the bios or into windows. All the fans and lights in the pc turn on when i power the system.

Ive tried reseating the ram, plugging my video output into the motherboard, tested a different power supply, tried a different wall outlet, checked all cable connections to and from the psu, and nothing has had an effect. Any help or suggestions would be really appreciated

My specs are: (all parts were recently bought brand new)
Cpu: intel 13900k
Motherboard: gigabyte aorus z790 elite ax
Ram: corsair vengeance ddr5 5600mhz 64gb
Gpu: msi rtx 4090 24gb
Psu: corsair hx1200 80+ platinum
Storage: 2 samsung nvme ssds, 1 corsair nvme ssds, and 2 hdds, 1 seagate and one wd, all except the corsair nvme are over half full
Cooling: 6 noctua case fans and a deepcool 360mm aio
Case: lian li 011 dynamic

 

[Darkbreeze]

What happens if you disconnect ALL drives, including all M.2 NVME drives, as well as all SATA devices? No difference?

Do you have two or four DIMMs making up that 64gb of memory?

How old is that HX1200?

 

[Ralston18]

OS?

Disk drives: As I understand your post there are 5 installed disk drives - is that correct?

Will the PC boot into Safe Mode and remain stable?

After the next successful boot look in Reliability History/Monitor, andEvent Viewer.

Either one or both tools may have captured some related error codes, warnings, or even informational events just before or at the time of the PC shut offs.

Also look in Update History for some problem or failed update.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, if it powers on and then off every few seconds and he can't get into the BIOS even, I'm guessing that none of the Windows related resolutions are going to be helpful here. Has to pretty much be something hardware level.

 

[JennyDeath34]

Well, if it powers on and then off every few seconds and he can't get into the BIOS even, I'm guessing that none of the Windows related resolutions are going to be helpful here. Has to pretty much be something hardware level.

My hunch is that its a hardware issue, also to answer your questions, the hx1200 is brand new, and the 64gb of ram is a 4 stick kit. Ill try disconnecting all drives and see if theres any change.

Edit: i removed all drives from the pc and tried again, same result.

 

[Darkbreeze]

So, take two sticks out leaving DIMMs only in the A2 and B2 slots. See if it will POST or boot. If not, try one stick in the A2 slot. If not, try the other three DIMMs individually in the A2 slot.

If it still doesn't work or there is no change I think I'd pull the CPU cooler and CPU and make sure there are no bent pins on the motherboard CPU socket. Even one pin minutely deformed out of normal shape, much less any that are mangled, can cause problems and it's always worth checking even if it worked ok for a while. It just happens that way sometimes. Just bent enough that it still works and then bam, at some point, it doesn't anymore and or something starts triggering protections.

I would make absolutely certain everything is exactly where it supposed to be by going through this thread and double checking each and every item.

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

 

[JennyDeath34]

So, take two sticks out leaving DIMMs only in the A2 and B2 slots. See if it will POST or boot. If not, try one stick in the A2 slot. If not, try the other three DIMMs individually in the A2 slot.

If it still doesn't work or there is no change I think I'd pull the CPU cooler and CPU and make sure there are no bent pins on the motherboard CPU socket. Even one pin minutely deformed out of normal shape, much less any that are mangled, can cause problems and it's always worth checking even if it worked ok for a while. It just happens that way sometimes. Just bent enough that it still works and then bam, at some point, it doesn't anymore and or something starts triggering protections.

I would make absolutely certain everything is exactly where it supposed to be by going through this thread and double checking each and every item.

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

So, take two sticks out leaving DIMMs only in the A2 and B2 slots. See if it will POST or boot. If not, try one stick in the A2 slot. If not, try the other three DIMMs individually in the A2 slot.

If it still doesn't work or there is no change I think I'd pull the CPU cooler and CPU and make sure there are no bent pins on the motherboard CPU socket. Even one pin minutely deformed out of normal shape, much less any that are mangled, can cause problems and it's always worth checking even if it worked ok for a while. It just happens that way sometimes. Just bent enough that it still works and then bam, at some point, it doesn't anymore and or something starts triggering protections.

I would make absolutely certain everything is exactly where it supposed to be by going through this thread and double checking each and every item.

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist

"No POST", "system won't boot", and "no video output" troubleshooting checklist This checklist is a compilation of troubleshooting ideas from many forum members. It's very important to actually perform every step in the checklist if you want to effectively troubleshoot your problem. 1.Did you...

forums.tomshardware.com

How To - Motherboard bench testing

Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...

forums.tomshardware.com

First up, sorry for the wait for an update, I’ve been busy with work.

So, I tested my ram in the a2 and b2 slots, then each stick individually in the a2 slot with no changes, then I removed my cpu cooler and verified that there are no bent pins or obstructions in or around the cpu socket and the cpu itself. Everything there looked normal.

Then I checked the first thread you linked with the troubleshooting checklist and went down each item to double checked I passed each one. The only thing I havent done yet is bench test my motherboard, but Ill try that next and see what happens.

Also thank you all for the help so far, I really do appreciate it.

 

[JennyDeath34]

First up, sorry for the wait for an update, I’ve been busy with work.

So, I tested my ram in the a2 and b2 slots, then each stick individually in the a2 slot with no changes, then I removed my cpu cooler and verified that there are no bent pins or obstructions in or around the cpu socket and the cpu itself. Everything there looked normal.

Then I checked the first thread you linked with the troubleshooting checklist and went down each item to double checked I passed each one. The only thing I havent done yet is bench test my motherboard, but Ill try that next and see what happens.

Also thank you all for the help so far, I really do appreciate it.

So Ive just bench tested my motherboard while following your guide, I had it set up with only the cpu, cpu cooler, and psu connected and tried to power up.

I got the same behavior as before where it would power on for about 7 seconds, shut down, and try to start again. My motherboard doesnt have an error code led or speaker, but it does have indicator leds for power labeled cpu, dram, boot, and vgu. The indicator light for cpu was lit, but that was all.

Then, I added 1 stick of ram to the correct slot and powered it again, and nothing changed. Still couldnt boot and the only indicator light that was on was the cpu led. My cpu cooler was powered and working for both of these tests.

So with that being said I think that either my motherboard or cpu is dead, but Im leaning towards it being the motherboard, please let me know what you think.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Where did you buy your parts through? Yes, I'd lean towards motherboard because CPU failures are rare occurrences except where user error has caused damage or failure, except that, it has become increasingly more common (Still not very common at all though) to see a CPU failure here or there, and especially since we've seen some fraud where people have purchased a CPU then swapped the heat spreader for an older model and sent it back or caused some kind of damage to it and sent it back and then that retailer sends it back out to the next customer, dead.

But motherboard failures are a lot more common AND the same thing can happen there with an unexperienced user trying to do their own build, toasts the motherboard, sends it back, retailer slaps new shrink wrap (Or even doesn't in some cases) on the box and sends it back out, DOA, knowing that for maybe three or four out of ten cases that person will just write it off and buy another board in which case the retailer has now managed to not lose money off a board they knew was bad and I assure you this DOES happen.

 

[JennyDeath34]

Where did you buy your parts through? Yes, I'd lean towards motherboard because CPU failures are rare occurrences except where user error has caused damage or failure, except that, it has become increasingly more common (Still not very common at all though) to see a CPU failure here or there, and especially since we've seen some fraud where people have purchased a CPU then swapped the heat spreader for an older model and sent it back or caused some kind of damage to it and sent it back and then that retailer sends it back out to the next customer, dead.

But motherboard failures are a lot more common AND the same thing can happen there with an unexperienced user trying to do their own build, toasts the motherboard, sends it back, retailer slaps new shrink wrap (Or even doesn't in some cases) on the box and sends it back out, DOA, knowing that for maybe three or four out of ten cases that person will just write it off and buy another board in which case the retailer has now managed to not lose money off a board they knew was bad and I assure you this DOES happen.

Update:
I rma’d my motherboard and ended up just getting a refund and getting a different model of motherboard, this time an msi mpg z790 edge wifi.

I plugged everything in and powered up, only to be hit with the same issue as before. So I guess its the cpu.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Well, it's honestly about the only option left other than the PSU or something flaky like a bad connection not fully plugged in or a dead graphics card.

Have you TRIED completely removing the graphics card and using the integrated graphics? You need to actually REMOVE the card, because MANY times a system will not POST even with nothing plugged into the graphics card except the slot power from the board IF there is a problem with it. It needs to be totally out of the board when you test the iGPU.

 

[Teknoman2]

Here's a generic advice i learned the hard way. if you are buying multiple parts, unless they are unrelated in their function (i.e a mouse, a SSD and a printer), ALWAYS buy them all from the same store. This way, if something is wrong, you can do a quick troubleshooting to see if you can find out what it is and fix it and if not, you take them all back to the store and have them find out the problem for you. Since there is a warranty, they will have to find and replace whatever is broken and you shouldn't have to pay for any of it.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Here's a generic advice i learned the hard way. if you are buying multiple parts, unless they are unrelated in their function (i.e a mouse, a SSD and a printer), ALWAYS buy them all from the same store. This way, if something is wrong, you can do a quick troubleshooting to see if you can find out what it is and fix it and if not, you take them all back to the store and have them find out the problem for you. Since there is a warranty, they will have to find and replace whatever is broken and you shouldn't have to pay for any of it.

Unfortunately, while this might SOUND like good advice, these days it's rarely relevant or possible. With the exception of the larger urban cities, most of the smaller PC shops, electronics stores and computer hardware retailers are gone. Completely out of business. For example, where I live in Colorado, there isn't a store other than Best Buy (Which has like ten things PC related that are all junk and way over priced) within like 100 miles where I could go to buy everything needed for a new build, which is not uncommon these days in the advent of there not being many (Or any) places like Radio shack, Circuit city, Tech 4 less, Fry's, Microcenter or any of the small mom and pop shops anymore for most small to mid sized towns.

Online retailers like Newegg, Amazon, Adorama, Microcenter, etc. have driven them all out of business except potentially in the large cities where there is enough population to support some form of them, but even then, options are very limited compared to what there used to be in this regard for local options. So, I'd say 80-90% of PC hardware gets ordered online these days which makes taking them back to the store not an option, and that's aside from the fact that unless you had them assemble it for you, most of them will want to charge you something for any testing or troubleshooting they have to do even if you bought the hardware there. There are exceptions, but few of them, and not available to the majority of people. And if you assembled the hardware yourself, then other than directly from the manufacturer (Who the warranty comes from, since warranties do NOT come through the retailer other than very minimal basic ones required by SOME state laws for like 30 days) you will have no manner of recourse. Some places like Microcenter or Geeksquad/Best Buy MIGHT try to help you out IF you bought the hardware from them, but for the most part these days, they ain't doing it for free unless you already paid them to do the build assembly and ended up with a problem.

And furthermore, if YOU assembled it and you DO have a problem, they ABSOLUTELY have the option of telling you to shove off and go deal directly with the manufacturer, because in most cases it will be probable that any damage was a result of you not knowing what you were doing or being careless and they are not going to eat the cost of that hardware because you screwed something up. I assure you. I see it ALL THE TIME from people who end up bringing their stuff to me after attempting to go down the avenue you are talking about.

Conversely, places like Amazon might actually be a lot MORE inclined to simply replace the hardware because it is more cost effective for them than to get into legal arguments about whether something was already borked or not, considering the high volume of retail sales they deal with. Plus, it's a hell of a lot cheaper to buy just about EVERYTHING online these days, especially when it comes to PC hardware, than it is to buy any of it locally. Places that have a Microcenter or something similar may be exceptions if they have sales on certain components, but again, there aren't that many places like that anymore if you don't live in a big city.

 

[Teknoman2]

The thing is though, don't buy the CPU form Newegg, the mobo from Amazon, the RAM from Microcenter and the PSU from somewhere else. If you get them all from the same place you only need to deal with one customer support.

 

[Darkbreeze]

You only need to deal with one customer support anyhow if you are troubleshooting properly, because only one component is likely to have failed or have problems unless you've done something ridiculous or had extraordinarily bad luck with a catastrophic failure due to something beyond your control, which is extremely seldom. Besides which, if you buy a motherboard, CPU, CPU cooler, memory, power supply, graphics card and storage devices from ANY online retailer, they are NOT going to allow you to ship all of it back to them, or the assembled build, so that you can have them figure out what is wrong. So it still doesn't make any sense AND doing that will almost always result in paying significantly more overall for the whole build because prices on at least some of the components will generally be cheaper at one retailer while other parts are cheaper at another.

Often you can save up to 25% on the cost of the build by buying from multiple retailers. Besides which, if the build was running fine for 3 weeks and then suddenly wasn't, you can be pretty sure it's because there was some kind of defect and defects are generally not going to be covered by the retailer unless they happen practically out of the box. If the build has been running for a while, even for a few weeks, they are probably going to direct you to the manufacturer for warranty concerns because it's not really their problem anymore. There are some exceptions to that as well where both Amazon and Newegg handle ALL the warranty considerations for some of the hardware manufacturers, especially ones that are not US based, but for core hardware like motherboards, CPUs, memory, storage devices and graphics cards, that is usually not going to be the case. It's much more likely for things like fans, some power supplies, third party fan and RGB controllers or hardware, some cases, some monitors, etc.

Overall, unless you are simply unlucky, like the OP in this thread was, if you are adequately capable of completing an assembly, you shouldn't HAVE problems and the percentage of users who have problems that ARE capable builders is very low in comparison to the number of builders who don't.

I think the only time buying everything from one retailer is highly important is where shipping costs might otherwise be a concern if you bought piecemeal through multiple retailers. Then it might make more sense to buy them all through one. But regardless, I think we are getting too far off topic with this now and we'll just leave off with me saying, your advice isn't the worst I've ever heard and might even be suitably accurate in some cases, it really just depends on the specifics of the situation.

 

[Teknoman2]

Where i am warranty works differently. Here the store is required to take care of everything while warranty lasts. Its their job to troubleshoot the problem and contact the manufacturer for repairs or replacement but if you have parts from several stores you need to find for sure which one is not working. If you make a mistake and its the wrong part you have to pay for their work and then try the next most likely part, but if its all from the same place you can ask for a full checkup while warranty lasts.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Yeah, it doesn't work that way for most places I know of and for sure not in the US where most of our member base is located. What country/region are you in that it works the way you've described? Always good to know so we can offer the right kind of advice based on where a person is from because, not ALL of our members are from here. We have plenty from other regions, it's just that most of them are US, Canada, Australia, UK, etc.

 

[Teknoman2]

I'm in Greece. In most countries were there is no subsidiary of the manufacturer, any service related to the warranty is performed through the store where you got the parts, either by the store itself or the store acts as an intermediary with the closest subsidiary of the manufacturer.

 

[Darkbreeze]

No. Maybe in the EU countries it is, but it's not that way for "most" countries. There are a HELL of a lot of countries that are NOT in the EU. Still, good to know which ones do things a certain way.

 

[JennyDeath34]

To answer your question, when I bench tested using the new motherbord I was using integrated graphics without the gpu being installed at all.

I purchased almost all my parts, including my cpu, from Newegg since I was trying not to feed into Amazon’s monopoly, and the warranty policy for their listing of the 13900k is a 30 day return policy and that’s it.

I’m way past the return window now so my options as I see it now are to take it to Intel’s customer support and see if they can help me, or I just cut my loses and sell the dead chip on Ebay to try and recoup some of the wasted money. Honestly both options suck but I don’t know what else I can try.

 

[Teknoman2]

Manufacturer warranty is different from store return policy, and since you are in USA and can get in contact with Intel's customer support, you should do that. As long as YOU didn't damage the CPU, the warranty is valid and they must either fix it or replace it. Now i don't know what the laws about it are there, but here the DOA period is set to 6 months.

 

[Darkbreeze]

Every state in the US has different laws on this. Some have a 30 day mandatory return policy law, others have no mandatory laws at all and it's completely up to the retailer's policies. So generally, if it's been more than 30 days, no matter what state you are in you are best off dealing directly with the manufacturer, who is the party that holds the warranty anyhow.

Intel has a 3 year warranty on it's consumer CPUs, so yours is definitely within warranty and there should be no reason for refusal unless the CPU has been visibly physically damaged by the user. If not, it should be covered so long as you purchased it through legitimate retail channels. If you bought it from a third party seller used, then you are SOL.