Yep, that's a lot better. Thanks.
So, to start with, if you can, return that PSU. It's 100% complete garbage. Not kidding, completely serious. Not even a question. The N1 and W1 series power supplies are some of the worst ones ever sold by any otherwise well known and respected PSU brand name company. Probably worse even or at least as bad as the old Corsair CX series, especially the CX600 units. Sure, they are probably "ok" for a business machine or mom and pop internet browsing machine, but they are not ok for systems that utilize a discreet graphics card meant for gaming.
For recommendations on what you SHOULD be targeting, you want something GOOD in the 450-550w range for that build. If you plan to upgrade the graphics card in the next few years, might be better to target a GOOD model in the 550-650w range, but for what you have 450-550w is plenty for your current hardware IF the unit is halfway decent. What you have, is not. I'm not saying that your PSU "IS" your problem entirely, but it might be, and no matter what it isn't helping things and assuredly WILL cause you problems sooner rather than later. These are the kind of units also known to occasionally take other hardware out with them when their protections fail too.
Look to these links for recommendations on good PSU models. Don't skimp. The PSU is more important than ANY other component in the system, because NONE of the other hardware works properly if the PSU doesn't work properly and there are a lot more considerations to "works properly" than just "has power". Power good signal, inrush current, capacitor selection, ripple and noise levels, voltage regulation, how the protections are implemented and a variety of other considerations are all at play here and ARE important. Unlike many people wrongly believe, it's NOT simply a matter of "well, it has power so it must be ok". Doesn't work that way.
First thing I'd recommend you do is make sure you are connecting your monitor to the outputs on the graphics card, not on the motherboard. As well, make sure that if your graphics card requires supplemental auxiliary power to be plugged into the card itself, that it is and that the card is fully seated so that the lock is engaged in the end of the PCIe slot to the cutout on the bottom of the graphics card.
Then, I'd unplug ALL of the connections coming from the power switch and front panel, and try jumping the pwr pins on the motherboard using a small flat screwdriver because it's possible they are not plugged in correctly.
In fact, it's probably a really good idea to take the WHOLE THING back out of the case and build it on top of the motherboard box in order to bench test it as I have outlined at the following link.
Finding the problem through bench testing If you are here then it’s likely you have encountered a serious hardware issue and have been unable to resolve it using the standard no-POST troubleshooting procedures. If you have not yet attempted to resolve your issues using the no-POST...
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