You don't need an electrical engineer to understand how heat pumps, or home heating systems in general, work. It would be HVAC engineers business to understand them anyway.Can yall hire someone who has an electrical engineering background, for the love of god... the only appropriate reaction to PR this stupid, is to have someone who knows the difference between central air blowers, and 120mm computer case fans, mock it mercilessly, and have actually send a list of genuine follow up questions on the calculations they used, to feel confident their "solution" is better than the much more established (central air, mini-splits, etc), and often much much cheaper per fan, and per fan meters³ of air moved. Typically a small/medium sized house with central air has a several HP motor running the large metal fan/air mover. In the US expect to pay $100 a HP for a new motor... how many HP do $100 of noctuas fans have?
Everyone... that dude... the writer of this article .. should also know wafting air over a home radiator is an extremely inefficient way to transfer heat from the stationary, small object, to air that's not markedly cooler. Central heating with air works, because the air is being 1. Compressed by that massive motor/fan assembly, denser air has more thermal conductivity, and 2. It's in that preferred state as it's pushed through extremely hot heating elements. Much hotter than any exposed radiator could ever be.
Y'alls current "work" is so disrespectful to who tomshardware used to be back in the day,
In a central air heating system you're using a "several HP motor" to do two tasks, transfer heat from a heat source with a relatively small footprint (since it must fit inside the machine) AND to move that heat into every room of a house.
In a central water heating system you're using a water pump to move the heat into every room of the house. Then, you are using relatively large, passive radiators in each room to transfer the heat into ambient air. So by default, the whole system is intented to work with no fans at all, unlike the centrail air heating.
If you've done any research on PC water cooling, you'll already know that radiators that are designed to be passively cooled are much larger than ones intented to be used with fans, but you can still massively increase passive coolers performance with fans. I've already explained in other comments why "cooling" the home radiators as much as possible is important, so I wont explain that again here.
What I do agree with that I would like to see some more detailed calculations than just the 5-10% estimation they give. Estimation based on what.
That's cool, I didn't know they already made products for this.There are already dedicated products on the market that fill the same role much better. The Kermi x-flair is a radiator with fans designed right into it (no eyesore), and for improving the existing radiators the SpeedComfort Duo offers an aftermarket alternative.
In both cases the idea is the same as with the CPU coolers: you have a warm spot, from which you want to transfer as much heat energy to the ambient air as possible. Passive convection could work, but quickly hits its limits. A single large fan would work marginally better. But for the best results you'll want to push lots of air over the heat exchanger fins. And for that nothing can beat built-in fans.