[SOLVED] Numerous issues after installing new Motherboard, CPU and RAM ?

[ImTimIsMe]

I no longer need help, I installed a new SSD and have a fresh Windows install on it. Everything is working perfectly fine now.


I had upgraded some major components of my pc not too long ago.

Ever since then I've been having some pretty annoying issues. Everything worked fine prior. Sometimes, when using my mouse and keyboard, primarily during games, they sometimes become unresponsive, the screen freezes for a short moment, then the Keyboard and Mouse will hold any button that was pressed before the freeze until I re-input it, and the mouse will jerk in a random direction. Also, when restarting the pc, my keyboard and/or mouse will disconnect and I have to unplug and re-plug to get them working again. (The mouse will turn on but not work, and the keyboard will shut off after being on for a moment) I have a Tourbox, which is a drawing controller plugged in via usb, and that will also have issues on occasion. It will sometimes just fully stop working and have to unplug and re-plug in to get working as well.

I have already replaced my ram with new, completely different brand sticks and gotten a replacement motherboard from Asus under warranty. I've tried updating every driver, and doing temperature tests while playing and nothing is out of the ordinary. Ive tried using different keyboards and mice, using them in different usb ports. Nothing has fixed anything

Possibly unrelated but just in case it happens to be related, while playing Overwatch, the game crashes randomly in the middle of matches. Only this game has that issue, but suffers the worst from all the other issues mentioned.

Motherboard- Asus Tuf Gaming B650-E Wifi
Bios- American Megatrends Inc. 3222
Ram-Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
CPU- Ryzen 7 7800X3D
CPU Cooler- NZXT Kraken 240
GPU- Radeon RX 7800 XT
PSU- EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GM, 80 Plus Gold (Idk how hold, maybe 8 years minimum)
Chassis- Hyte Y60
OS- Windows 11
Monitors- Dell S3222DGM, Dell S2721HGF
SSD/HDD- Samsung 98- Pro 2 TB M.2 2280 PCIe 4.0, Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500 GB, Seagate Barracuda St2000DM08-2FR102 (Windows main)

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Did you reinstall the OS after the parts upgrade/swap? If not, that's the root of your issue.

Motherboard- Asus Tuf Gaming B650-E Wifi
Ram-Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
CPU- Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU-Radeon RX 7800 XT (Just in case it matters. I got this after these issues happened, I had a 3060ti when I replaced the other components)
When posting a thread of troubleshooting nature, it's customary to include your full system's specs. Please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.

Moved thread from Components section to Systems section.

 

[ImTimIsMe]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Did you reinstall the OS after the parts upgrade/swap? If not, that's the root of your issue.

Motherboard- Asus Tuf Gaming B650-E Wifi
Ram-Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
CPU- Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU-Radeon RX 7800 XT (Just in case it matters. I got this after these issues happened, I had a 3060ti when I replaced the other components)
When posting a thread of troubleshooting nature, it's customary to include your full system's specs. Please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.

Moved thread from Components section to Systems section.

I had to upgrade to Windows 11 from 10 during the time period. Would that count as a re-install or no

 

[ImTimIsMe]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

Did you reinstall the OS after the parts upgrade/swap? If not, that's the root of your issue.

Motherboard- Asus Tuf Gaming B650-E Wifi
Ram-Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36
CPU- Ryzen 7 7800X3D
GPU-Radeon RX 7800 XT (Just in case it matters. I got this after these issues happened, I had a 3060ti when I replaced the other components)
When posting a thread of troubleshooting nature, it's customary to include your full system's specs. Please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.

Moved thread from Components section to Systems section.

After a few days of testing, I can confidently say this did not fix the issue. The issues are as persistent and occasional as they were prior

 

[Misgar]

Ram-Corsair Vengeance 32GB DDR5-6000 CL36

Are you running your RAM at XMP/EXPO/DOCP 6000MT/s or at the JEDEC default of 4800MT/s?

If you're overclocking your RAM, disable DOCP (Asus BIOS) and check stability at 4800MT/s.

I recommend booting the machine from a USB flash drive containing MemTest86 and leave it running for at least one complete pass (2 to 4 hours). Repeat a full MemTest86 test scan at each RAM speed you set in the BIOS, e.g. at 4800MT/s and 6000Mt/s. Aim for zero errors in MemTest86. Even one error means your RAM is not stable.
https://www.memtest86.com/

If 6000MT/s is unstable in MemTest86, learn how to manually overclock RAM and try 5200MT/s, 5400MT/s, 5600MT/s, 5800MT/s, until you start to get errors in MemTest86. Then reduce the speed by at least 200MT/s to return a stable setting. Slower stable memory is far more important than flaky high speed memory settings.

According to CPU World, the 7800X3D is "guaranteed" up to 5200MT/s. You may simply be running your CPU's Integrated Memeory Controller channels too fast if you're using 6000MT/s. There's an art to overclocking RAM and automatic XMP settings don't always work.
https://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Zen/AMD-Ryzen 7 7800X3D.html

Memory controller

Memory channels (total): 2 Supported memory: DDR5-5200 ECC supported: Yes

I had to upgrade to Windows 11 from 10 during the time period. Would that count as a re-install or no

If you upgraded from Windows 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the new motherboard, you should be OK.

If you upgraded from 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the old motherboard, then moved the drive to the new motherboard, this can cause problems.

Some people (including myself) get lazy and transfer old Windows SSDs to different motherboards. Windows may seem to work fine in the new system, but wierd things can happen because you failed to observe "best practice"". On one of my systems, things ran incredibly slowly, until I reinstalled Windows properly from scratch.

It takes me 15 to 20 minutes to install Windows on an SSD, plus several hours to tweak settings and install all my favourite programs. Total time 4 to 5 hours. Contrast this with 60 seconds to plug an existing Windows drive into a new system and you can see why some people take a chance.

If you have any doubts, reinstall Windows 11 from scratch, e.g. on a spare drive (even a 120GB SATA SSD will do as a test). Once you've sorted things out, you can wipe your main boot drive (M.2 NVMe?) and reinstall Windows.

It's often best to "nuke it from orbit" (Aliens quotation) by wiping the drive and performing a clean install (no old data or settings retained). Backup any important files elsewhere if necessary.

Make sure any other hard disks and SSDs are physically disconnected during Windows installation. This is to ensure all necessary hidden and visible partitions created by Windows are written to the correct (boot) drive only.

You can reconnect any other drives, after booting into the new Windows Desktop for the first time.

I have a Tourbox, which is a drawing controller plugged in via usb, and that will also have issues on occasion.

Whilst fault finding, unplug all external hardware apart from the essentials (mouse, keyboard, monitor). Get the basic system working first, then add peripherals.

 

[ImTimIsMe]

Are you running your RAM at XMP/EXPO/DOCP 6000MT/s or at the JEDEC default of 4800MT/s?

If you're overclocking your RAM, disable DOCP (Asus BIOS) and check stability at 4800MT/s.

I havent overclocked anything, so its whatever the default is. I can try and do an Auto Overclock via AMD Adrenaline since I dont know enough about it to confidently do it on my own.

If you upgraded from Windows 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the new motherboard, you should be OK.

If you upgraded from 10 to 11 on a drive connected to the old motherboard, then moved the drive to the new motherboard, this can cause problems.

Some people (including myself) get lazy and transfer old Windows SSDs to different motherboards. Windows may seem to work fine in the new system, but wierd things can happen because you failed to observe "best practice"". On one of my systems, things ran incredibly slowly, until I reinstalled Windows properly from scratch.

I had reset my pc and reinstalled Windows a couple days ago, and there were no improvements.
Unfortunately as well, my windows is on an HDD that I havent upgraded since my first build nearly 10 years ago. I definitely plan to upgrade, and transfer all files to a new SSD, in the near future to get rid of it.

 

[Misgar]

I can try and do an Auto Overclock via AMD Adrenaline since I dont know enough about it to confidently do it on my own.

If your system is unstable and still running at "stock" frequencies, I strongly advise against overclocking. You'll only make things worse. I'd be inclined to check carefully and to if your RAM is being overclocked. If the BIOS setting isn't obvious, try some test software and look at the memory frequency.

https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/cpu-z.html
https://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

If your RAM is running at stock JEDEC settings, you should see 2400MHz RAM clcok speed (when multiplied by 2 for DDR this gives 4800MT/s (which may be shown as 4800MHz). If you see 3000MHz (or 6000MT/s) your RAM is being overclocked. Remove the overclock if it's enabled.

Unfortunately as well, my windows is on an HDD that I havent upgraded since my first build nearly 10 years ago.

Apart from the fact Windows will be very slow running hard disk (I still have some XP systems that boot from hard disks), if the drive is 10 years old, it may be on its way out with "bad blocks", "pending sectors" or corrupted files, etc.

Three things you can try:

CHKDSK
DISM
SFC

If you run CHKDSK on drive C: with the /F switch, you can check the hard disk for errors and attempt to fix them.
https://www.howtogeek.com/1033/how-to-use-chkdsk-on-windows/

If you run sfc /scannow from the Command Prompt (with Admin rights) and DISM, they should correct most OS related problems.
https://woshub.com/dism-cleanup-image-restorehealth/

I definitely plan to upgrade, and transfer all files to a new SSD

A cheap120GB SATA SSD costing around $15 is sufficient to install Windows (but not much else) and use as a temporary replacement. If you can afford it, buy a 500GB or 1TB SATA SSD with DRAM cache (considerably more expensive).

As a rule of thumb, DRAMless SATA SSDs are half the price of equivalent sized SATA SSDs with DRAM. A DRAM cache makes Windows faster, but it's not vital. If your motherboard has an M.2 slot, check to see if it is SATA (slower) or NVMe (faster).

 

[ImTimIsMe]

If your RAM is running at stock JEDEC settings, you should see 2400MHz RAM clcok speed (when multiplied by 2 for DDR this gives 4800MT/s (which may be shown as 4800MHz). If you see 3000MHz (or 6000MT/s) your RAM is being overclocked. Remove the overclock if it's enabled.

Ram is running just under 2400, at ~2394/5.
The scan showed that the drive did have an error and I'm going through the fix now. Insanely slow, so I'll update again after it's done it's thing. ...Probably would have been a better idea to do it at night so I wouldn't be locked out of my ps for 12 hours...
As for the SSD, I plan to get a 4tb 990 evo plus. I could use the extra space anyways, better to have more than less.

 

[Misgar]

Ram is running just under 2400, at ~2394/5.

That's fine, i.e. the memory clock is circa 2400MHz and the DDR rate is therefore 4800MT/s which should be stable with 2 DIMMs installed. You may benefit from overclocking RAM at some point, but only when you're certain everything else is OK.

The scan showed that the drive did have an error and I'm going through the fix now. Insanely slow, so I'll update again after it's done it's thing. ...Probably would have been a better idea to do it at night so I wouldn't be locked out of my ps for 12 hours...

If you'd like to run a more informative scan, download a trial copy of Hard Disk Sentinel and run a Non Destructive (read only) Disk Surface Test. You get a "map" of the drive surface showing any errors, e.g. bad blocks.

It may reveal a perfect disk or a litany of horrors. I'd definitely advise running these tests overnight. On a modern 6TB hard disk, you're looking at 10 hours+, if everything goes well.

On an older 2TB Seagate ST2000DM08-2FR102, expect 3 to 4 hours. If there are any serious problems, the scan will grind to a virtul halt, at which point you might as well stop the test. It could take days to complete.

https://www.hdsentinel.com/help/en/61_surfacetest.html

This result indicates a good healthy disk. Applicable to both hard disks and SSDs.

If you see a few red blocks, backup your data now. Dark green blocks indicate some sectors are more difficult to read, but still OK (for now).

If you see this, pray fervently all your critical files are saved elsewhere on another physical drive or USB key. Backup any remaining files and dump the drive (at a recycling centre after smashing it with a sledge hammer to prevent data recovery).

Good luck.

 

[drivinfast247]

FYI: a reset and a full wipe and reinstall are entirely different.

 

[ImTimIsMe]

If you'd like to run a more informative scan, download a trial copy of Hard Disk Sentinel and run a Non Destructive (read only) Disk Surface Test. You get a "map" of the drive surface showing any errors, e.g. bad blocks.

So for whatever reason it isnt letting me run the test without registering the product, even though I downloaded the trial. From the base though I did have some things

https://imgur.com/a/jdnITZq

The health is fairly low and seems to not have much time left. So probably good that im replacing it soon

 

[ImTimIsMe]

FYI: a reset and a full wipe and reinstall are entirely different.

It was a wipe, save personal files, and full reinstall of windows 11. I know it wasnt a full blown wipe, but I dont have the means of fully backing up everything.
So far though with what was recommended, things have improved a bit. I need a little more time to fully make sure, but its alright so far

 

[USAFRet]

but I dont have the means of fully backing up everything.

You need to fix that first.

 

[Misgar]

The health is fairly low and seems to not have much time left. So probably good that im replacing it soon

144 bad sectors means it's time to junk that drive immediately (if not sooner). I've stopped using hard disks with only 3 bad sectors. When they start to appear, it's only a matter of time before things get worse.

Regardless, back up all your personal files today, get a new SSD and install Windows from scratch. I would not trust a hard disk with that number of bad sectors for an instant longer.

You'll notice a huge performance increase after switching from Windows on a hard disk to Windows on an M.2 drive.

N.B. If you run CHKDSK /F /R, it will scan the whole drive for undetected errors and try to fix them, but running this command may render the drive unbootable. Take care.

I dont have the means of fully backing up everything.

Big mistake. You could lose everything on the hard disk if it stops working tomorrow. All you need to backup is your personal data (irreplaceable files). Collections of MP3/FLAC files, commercial movies, third party games/programs/apps, can all be downloaded again.

Concentrate on personal documents, spreadsheets, photos, home movies, anything you can't bear to lose which is impossible to replace. You might have only a few hundred MB to backup, not 2TB.

You've got 2.5TB of SSD storage. Check free space on these drives. Calculate how much personal data is on the hard disk and copy to SSD. Better still, buy some external storage (portable USB hard disk) and backup to that.

SSD/HDD- Samsung 98- Pro 2 TB M.2 2280 PCIe 4.0, Samsung 970 Evo Plus 500 GB, Seagate Barracuda St2000DM08-2FR102 (Windows main)

By the looks of it, you've still got one empty NVMe slot, so get rid of the Barracuda and fit a new NVMe drive for Windows. If you're not running games, you might not need anything bigger than 500GB (preferably 1TB) as the Windows boot drive. 4TB SSDs may run slightly slower than 2TB or 1TB, but it pays to check.

 

[ImTimIsMe]

144 bad sectors means it's time to junk that drive immediately (if not sooner). I've stopped using hard disks with only 3 bad sectors. When they start to appear, it's only a matter of time before things get worse.

Regardless, back up all your personal files today, get a new SSD and install Windows from scratch. I would not trust a hard disk with that number of bad sectors for an instant longer.

Well.... you see, I had gotten a new ssd yesterday, and cloned the hdd to it, following a tutorial. Which at first worked perfectly fine, until I went to turn it off and got blue screened, and kept getting blue screened on start up (Definitely not following any guide for that agian. I'll do things right next time). So I had to get a fresh Windows and go through it properly, which wiped the drive and everything on it.

I didn't really have any personal files to worry much about, just some drawings I made and a bunch of references. Even though I lost the file to edit them, I can just re-download the drawings themselves from where I post them. Plus some settings on my drawing program, but thats not anything crazy.

Concentrate on personal documents, spreadsheets, photos, home movies, anything you can't bear to lose which is impossible to replace. You might have only a few hundred MB to backup, not 2TB.

I did actually have those artworks on my usb, but they got overwritten by the windows install. oops.
Definitely learned that trying to shortcut to keep files instead of doing it properly, just aint worth the risk. Thanks for all the help though, I do appreciate it, even though I bit myself in the ass quite hard trying to go around ways

 

[USAFRet]

Definitely learned that trying to shortcut

So many mistakes...

 

[ImTimIsMe]

So many mistakes...

Sometimes the hard was is the best way to learn unfortunately

 

[digitaldata77]

Hi, "and everyone said Amen." I can relate to learning the hard way for the first 10 yrs of gaming and PC building. I have been at it for 35 yrs now and have learned a lot. I had colossal horrid disasters back in the day with losing valuable and important data. Failed HDD's and SSD's even up to today. Backups are very important these days. Especially if you have mission critical information. In my experience what has worked the best in most cases is to clean install the OS run SFC file checker to insure the OS system is OK Install all relevant updates for the OS then Install your Application programs etc. Backup Important data to a separate drive. Run regular maintenance on the complete system to insure good file integrity. Take some time to enjoy your PC system. Cheers from an old school PC builder and Gamer. All the Best.

 

[Misgar]

I had gotten a new ssd yesterday, and cloned the hdd to it, following a tutorial. Which at first worked perfectly fine, until I went to turn it off and got blue screened, and kept getting blue screened on start up

With so many bad blocks on your Windows hard disk, it's hardly surprising the cloning process to SSD wasn't 100% successful. Some files on the hard disk might be corrupted, other files could be missing. If these missing/corrupted files are part of the Windows OS, that could explain the Blue Screens Of Death. I'm surprised the cloning app managed to complete the task. I've seen Macrium grind to a halt when it encounters a problem on the source drive, requiring manual intervention or a clean install of Windows.

I didn't really have any personal files to worry much about, just some drawings I made and a bunch of references.

It can take time and effort to track down all your old data, especially if you've forgotten its existence or where it's saved. I try not to keep important files in my Windows Profile (i.e. Documents, Music, Pictures and Videos) preferring instead to create folders with more pertinent names (often on other drives). That way if your Profile stops working and you can't repair it, there's less work involved in trying to recover files from the old (broken) Profile.

For important photos and videos, I keep multiple copies on different computers and servers. An absolute minimum of 3 copies, usually far more. You never know when ransomware, drive failure, flood, lightning strike, etc., will take place.

If your system is up and running with a fresh install of Windows on the new SSD (it's much faster isn't it?) now is the time to take stock of your remaining data and start making backups. Never keep all your data on just one computer. If the PSU dies spectacularly, it could destroy all your hard disks and SSDs.

Similarly, if you leave an external USB "backup"device connected all the time, that could die too or be hit by ransomware. Keep at least 3 copies of anything important in 3 separate locations. These could be other drives/computers, USB memory sticks, portable hard disks or SSDs, in the Cloud, etc. A copy stored off site (e.g. at work or in a friend's house) copes with a fire or theft in your home.