Question Only One PWM SYS_FAN header on my motherbaord. Can I use multiple splitters?

Oct 11, 2020
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Hi! So I have a Gigabyte B450M DS3H Motherboard. It has 1 SYS_FAN 4 pin 12V header, 1 CPU_FAN 4 pin header and 1 CPU_LED 4 pin VGRB header. I wanted to connect three ARGB Antec Prizm 120MM fans and 1 Non-RGB Fan to my system, The Antec ARGB fans use 0.216A max current and the other NON-RGB fan uses 0.2 A max current. My SYS_FAN 4 Pin 12V header is something Gigabyte calls Hybrid Fan Pin Headers and it supports up to 2A.
All Hybrid Fan Headers can automatically detect the type of cooling device whether it be a fan or pump with different PWM or Voltage mode.
So, was thinking to buy a PWM fan splitter and connect 3 ARGB fans to it for power and 1 Non-RGB fan. Will it work? WIll all the fans run properly?


 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
More than two fans on any one fan header, is a recipe for disaster. Not necessarily because of the fan header specifically, but because of the wiring itself, and in some cases also the header. Unless of course you're using an aftermarket hub or controller, that will usually have it's own supplemental power source.

At most, you COULD run three fans off a single header using one three way PWM cable splitter, but I don't recommend it as a matter of course. Four, absolutely not.

If you need to run four PWM fans, get one of these.

https://www.newegg.com/global/in-en/phanteks-ph-pwhub-02-black/p/N82E16811984030?Description=PWM fan controller&cm_re=PWM_fan controller-_-11-984-030-_-Product&quicklink=true
 

dimtodim

Respectable
Sep 4, 2018
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1,990
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Hi! So I have a Gigabyte B450M DS3H Motherboard. It has 1 SYS_FAN 4 pin 12V header, 1 CPU_FAN 4 pin header and 1 CPU_LED 4 pin VGRB header. I wanted to connect three ARGB Antec Prizm 120MM fans and 1 Non-RGB Fan to my system, The Antec ARGB fans use 0.216A max current and the other NON-RGB fan uses 0.2 A max current. My SYS_FAN 4 Pin 12V header is something Gigabyte calls Hybrid Fan Pin Headers and it supports up to 2A.
All Hybrid Fan Headers can automatically detect the type of cooling device whether it be a fan or pump with different PWM or Voltage mode.
So, was thinking to buy a PWM fan splitter and connect 3 ARGB fans to it for power and 1 Non-RGB fan. Will it work? WIll all the fans run properly?
the best way is buy funhub cost around 5$ and u can connect 10 fans...u will never overload motherboard with fanhub...
https://www.arctic.ac/en/Case-Fan-Hub/ACFAN00175A
 
Oct 11, 2020
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Yes, I was doing my research while I hadn't got any replies and I have decided to buy a fan hub instead of a splitter as that would be better. I wanted to buy a hub which had at least 6 PWM fan header but none are available in my country other than this one from Deepcool-
https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B07LGWHHXV/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AXPHJ4KBOYXKY&psc=1
I think this hub will work just fine as this one also pulls power from the PSU separately.
 
Oct 11, 2020
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But now I just realised that my PSU only came with one Sata cable which is connected to my WD 1TB HDD. What shall I buy so that I can connect a hub with sata?
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
If you have a power supply that has only one SATA cable, then you need a better power supply in general. There isn't a single halfway decent power supply out there anymore that has only a single SATA power cable, so you either have one that is extremely old, or you have a REALLY low end OEM power supply. Either way, that's probably a much bigger concern than how to connect some fans and RGB stuff.
 
Oct 11, 2020
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If you have a power supply that has only one SATA cable, then you need a better power supply in general. There isn't a single halfway decent power supply out there anymore that has only a single SATA power cable, so you either have one that is extremely old, or you have a REALLY low end OEM power supply. Either way, that's probably a much bigger concern than how to connect some fans and RGB st
 

dimtodim

Respectable
Sep 4, 2018
680
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1,990
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If you have a power supply that has only one SATA cable, then you need a better power supply in general. There isn't a single halfway decent power supply out there anymore that has only a single SATA power cable, so you either have one that is extremely old, or you have a REALLY low end OEM power supply. Either way, that's probably a much bigger concern than how to connect some fans and RGB stuff.
probably he only thinking about how to get lights on fans :) that is so funny...how to make circus inside pc case on the best cheapest way?
 
Oct 11, 2020
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probably he only thinking about how to get lights on fans :) that is so funny...how to make circus inside pc case on the best cheapest way?
I'm buying fans so that I can have good airflow in my pc, currently I only have one 120mm fan in my PC. And if you are taking about having a circus, then you should know that I am getting the Antec Prizm 120mm fans which provide a minimalistic RGB look.
It's so easy to be rude to people online when they are in need help right?
 

dimtodim

Respectable
Sep 4, 2018
680
64
1,990
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I'm buying fans so that I can have good airflow in my pc, currently I only have one 120mm fan in my PC. And if you are taking about having a circus, then you should know that I am getting the Antec Prizm 120mm fans which provide a minimalistic RGB look.
It's so easy to be rude to people online when they are in need help right?
what case u have?
 
Oct 11, 2020
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Then you have 4 sata power connectors on 1 string, not 1.

Also if you're buying the antec prizm in a 3 pack they should come with a powered pwm and argb hub?
Hey, thanks for the info, sorry but I am kinda new to this stuff that's why I didn't know about the Sata thing. And I am buying 3 Antec Prizm fans separately as I don't need the RGB strips and my case, Antec DP501, already came with a ARGB hub pre-installed which I can also control with a button on my case. As for the PWM, I don't mind buying another hub separately as I'm also getting a Deepcool RGB convertor with it. My motherboard only has one SYS_FAN header that's why I need the hub and also it only has one 4 pin 12V VGRB header, so the Deepcool RGB convertor will help me to use my lighting on the case, fans and other peripherals via software.
 
Oct 11, 2020
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And now that the topic has come to the case, how to I orientate my fans? The Antec ARGB Fans provide 2000RPM and 45.03 CFM Maximum and the other Non-RGB fan provides 1000RPM and 42.6 CFM Maximum and I am also willing to buy 2 more Non-RGB fans to fill empty fan spaces.
 
Oct 11, 2020
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problem with case is close front panel and u will not get something special with adding extra fans, fresh air is hard to intake inside that case...see this case antec nx800...u must have case with front mesh panel
I know that air intake is not so good on my case but I will have to work with what I have right. Although there is a small space on the front of the case which can be used for intake so I'm planning to put three 120mm Non-RGB fans in the front of the case, RGB fan on the rear and 2 RBG fans on the top of the case.
 

dimtodim

Respectable
Sep 4, 2018
680
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1,990
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I know that air intake is not so good on my case but I will have to work with what I have right. Although there is a small space on the front of the case which can be used for intake so I'm planning to put three 120mm Non-RGB fans in the front of the case, RGB fan on the rear and 2 RBG fans on the top of the case.
what is most important with good air flow...provide fresh air to income inside case and pull after that hot air out...most important thing is have in line front back and cpu cooler that 3 or more fans must be in same direction and one minimum at top case just below cpu to exhaust hot air from cpu cooler...main problem with closed case like yours is u have inside that case hot air from cpu cooler and mostly gpu and motherboard, psu...one solution temporally is remove that glass panel and keep your case open, tray install fans and monitoring temps u will see u will not get any or less improvement...i can see u have micro atx motherboard u can buy great case for less then 50$ with great air flow...
 
Oct 11, 2020
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what is most important with good air flow...provide fresh air to income inside case and pull after that hot air out...most important thing is have in line front back and cpu cooler that 3 or more fans must be in same direction and one minimum at top case just below cpu to exhaust hot air from cpu cooler...main problem with closed case like yours is u have inside that case hot air from cpu cooler and mostly gpu and motherboard, psu...one solution temporally is remove that glass panel and keep your case open, tray install fans and monitoring temps u will see u will not get any or less improvement...i can see u have micro atx motherboard u can buy great case for less then 50$ with great air flow...
Okay, I'll buy a new case too. Thank you for the advice
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
what is most important with good air flow...provide fresh air to income inside case and pull after that hot air out...most important thing is have in line front back and cpu cooler that 3 or more fans must be in same direction and one minimum at top case just below cpu to exhaust hot air from cpu cooler...main problem with closed case like yours is u have inside that case hot air from cpu cooler and mostly gpu and motherboard, psu...one solution temporally is remove that glass panel and keep your case open, tray install fans and monitoring temps u will see u will not get any or less improvement...i can see u have micro atx motherboard u can buy great case for less then 50$ with great air flow...
You REALLY need to work on your English skills, because that paragraph right there is almost completely incomprehensible to me, and what I DO understand of it literally doesn't make a lot of sense. I'm not saying that to be offensive or to attack you in any way, it's just a fact.

If you're using a translator, you need a new one. If not, you need one.

@Vritra16 , As far as the case is concerned, don't go buying a new case until you know you need to. Get your fans. Get your fan hub. Install them. See what kind of temperatures you have. If the temperatures are not acceptable then remove the front panel and run it without the panel on. If the temperatures are good without the front panel on, THEN you need to get a case with better airflow, or a better CPU cooler, or both. THEN, not before then.
 

dimtodim

Respectable
Sep 4, 2018
680
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1,990
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You REALLY need to work on your English skills, because that paragraph right there is almost completely incomprehensible to me, and what I DO understand of it literally doesn't make a lot of sense. I'm not saying that to be offensive or to attack you in any way, it's just a fact.

If you're using a translator, you need a new one. If not, you need one.

@Vritra16 , As far as the case is concerned, don't go buying a new case until you know you need to. Get your fans. Get your fan hub. Install them. See what kind of temperatures you have. If the temperatures are not acceptable then remove the front panel and run it without the panel on. If the temperatures are good without the front panel on, THEN you need to get a case with better airflow, or a better CPU cooler, or both. THEN, not before
then.
Dont buy anything just put big house fan on front or side pc case and dont forget open side panel ;).... Yeah my english is good i dont need translator ❤
 

Darkbreeze

Retired Mod
That is the absolute worst thing you could possibly do, and his results are completely BS, full word intended.

BILLION dollar companies have done every kind of imaginable testing related to case cooling, as well as a slew of professional review sites, and in EVERY SINGLE case, when a standard tower system is being used, number 3 on that is always the most effective, bar none. You want to cook your hardware, go for it. Set it up like number 4. That idiot can buy you new hardware when you barbecue yours, just like half the replies to that POS video in the comments have indicated has happened to their hardware when they tried it like that. Pure nonsense.
 
Reactions: jasonf2

jasonf2

Honorable
Oct 11, 2015
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That is the absolute worst thing you could possibly do, and his results are completely BS, full word intended.

BILLION dollar companies have done every kind of imaginable testing related to case cooling, as well as a slew of professional review sites, and in EVERY SINGLE case, when a standard tower system is being used, number 3 on that is always the most effective, bar none. You want to cook your hardware, go for it. Set it up like number 4. That idiot can buy you new hardware when you barbecue yours, just like half the replies to that POS video in the comments have indicated has happened to their hardware when they tried it like that. Pure nonsense.
I am totally with darkbreeze here. Intake fans to the front preferably low or all the way up, At least one main exhaust up next to the cpu on the back. Any radiators blow up and away. If you have any filters on the case try to maintain more intake cfm than output so you are pulling air thru the filters instead of every hole in the case. If only using one fan the one on the back by the CPU is the one to have.

Back to your original splitter question. While the fan header might be rated for 2 amps on the power pins the driver on the PWM circuit could potentially be (and probably is) rated for almost nothing. So stacking multiple fans on PWM could overload the PWM driver and do damage to it, even though the sum of the fans themselves would amp rate ok. PWM is a very simple high speed switching pulse and not meant to be anything but a signal. A hub controller takes the PWM signal and distributes it to all of the fans taking it into consideration that the additional amperage is needed and either having a driver powerful enough to handle multiples or individual drivers to each of the fans. Depending on your hardware you may get away with it, but for a 20 dollar part I would not chance it.
 

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