Archived from groups: alt.comp.periphs.mainboard.asus (
More info?)
On Sun, 10 Oct 2004 15:49:18 -0400, nospam@needed.com (Paul) wrote:
>In article <t88im0dsqedj18lgpdn7ujbo062063cijh@4ax.com>, Jay Peterman
><biteme@thelibrary.net> wrote:
>
>> On Sun, 10 Oct 2004 07:22:26 -0400, Jay Peterman
>> <biteme@thelibrary.net> wrote:
>>
>> >It's about to drive me insane. The manual says:
>> >
>> >High frequency beeps when system is working -
>> >
>> >CPU overheated
>> >System running at a lower fequency
>> >
>> >I just installed a new Antec 450 power supply and the MOBO fan is
>> >working so I don't really think overheating is the problem.
>> >
>> >If the system is running at a lower frequency
>> >I don't know how to fix that part.
>> >
>> >Thanks for any suggestions.
>> >
>> >I think I'll install the software that came with the MOBO to see what
>> >it tells me.
>>
>> After installing the software I get this readout:
>>
>> Power Fan below threshold (with zero flashing)
>> Chassis fan below threshold (with zero flashing)
>>
>> Under settings it reads:
>>
>> Power fan threshold 1200 RPM
>> Chassis fan threshold 1200 RPM
>>
>> I looked at all the fans and they do initiate upon boot.
>
>The probe software can only detect a fan if the fan has a tachometer
>output. A fan with three wires has tacho output, one with two wires
>does not. The only fan with a reasonable guarantee of having tacho
>output, is the CPU fan.
>
>High frequency beeping could be the overheat alarm. Using the probe
>software, is the CPU temperature listed as being a "sky high" number ?
>Maybe, another reason for crazy beeping would be if the Vcore for
>the processor is out of whack.
>
>Things to check:
>
>1) CPU is actually overheating. Check that heatsink clip is secure
> and that an effective heatsink compound was applied between CPU
> and heatsink/fan.
>2) Vcore is low. This could be caused by the CPU overloading the
> circuit (CPU is failing). It could be caused by bad caps in the
> Vcore circuit (check for bulging tops on the electrolytic caps
> near the processor, also look for signs of leaking or brown stains
> on the motherboard surface from the electrolyte). If one capacitor
> is failing, the others will eventually follow. Their failure can
> short out Vcore. Using the Vcore value measured in the BIOS or in
> Asus Probe, compare the value to Vcore printed on the box the
> processor came in, or look on processorfinder.intel.com, for data
> on the processor you bought.
>3) Connector problem. On a P4, there is a 2x2 connector for processor
> power (actually, there are two connectors next to one another, and
> you can use both or either if you wish, without a problem). Make
> sure the connector is fully seated. Pull the plug out and look for
> signs the pins are burnt or the plastic on the connector is melted.
> If a connector becomes ohmic (i.e. a bad connection), power will
> get dropped inside the connector, and the heat will melt the
> plastic. The only way to permanently correct a connector problem
> is to replace it. On the PSU end, this is easy, as you can buy a
> new one. On the motherboard, it means doing some soldering. You can
> buy Molex Mini-Fit Jr connectors at Digikey, for example. I don't
> know if all the part numbers necessary for repairing computers are
> at Digikey or not.
>
> For many people, reseating the connectors from PSU to motherboard
> is enough to fix it, at least for a few months.
>
> The 20 pin connector can also cause problems, so pull it out and
> examine the pins on it as well. Some people suffer from low +3.3V,
> and that would be related to the 20 pin connector.
>
>HTH,
> Paul
Thanks Paul. The temperature is 90-94 which if I remember is within
the tolerance. I'll check out the other things when I get a little
more time. Ten hour days are killing my hobby time.
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