Question After a CPU upgrade, the PC constantly reboots after 1/2 minutes of being turned on ?

[Rekyeme]

Hi everyone!

So, I recently just swapped out my old Intel i3-10105 CPU for a better one, an Intel i9-10900KF.
After having some trouble getting the PC to even display any kind of image I was finally able to boot into Windows 11.

Now, after some minutes (More precisely, after1/2 minutes) the PC just reboots without even displaying any kind of error message or even the infamous Windows bluescreen.

I did some light research and found something that should solve the problem, which is to reinstall Windows 11. After trying, in the middle of setting it up, it did the same thing it did earlier...It rebooted in the middle of the Windows 11 installation.

That said, I'm quite frustrated, since it is compatible with my motherboard and there is no lack of resources.

PC Specs
Motherboard: Asus Prime H410M-K
CPU: I9 10900KF (I might revert to the i3-10105 if this persists)
RAM: 32GB 2666MHz
GPU: Intel Arc A750
Storage: 1TB Crucial SSD

 

[Lutfij]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

You don't put a processor like an i9 on a motherboard that's got a horribly designed VRM, let alone a motherboard that's meant for an office machine.

Get a new motherboard with a beefy VRM design(and a heatsink atop of it,. notably an Z490 or Z590 chipset board.

On second thoughts, please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.

 

[Rekyeme]

Welcome to the forums, newcomer!

You don't put a processor like an i9 on a motherboard that's got a horribly designed VRM, let alone a motherboard that's meant for an office machine.

Get a new motherboard with a beefy VRM design(and a heatsink atop of it,. notably an Z490 or 590 chipset board.

On second thoughts, please list the specs to your build like so:
CPU:
CPU cooler:
Motherboard:
Ram:
SSD/HDD:
GPU:
PSU:
Chassis:
OS:
Monitor:
include the age of the PSU apart from it's make and model. BIOS version for your motherboard at this moment of time.

So, regarding the motherboard being for office use...That I didn't know. In my country this was sold as an entry gaming desktop for around 400 Euros in 2021(Be aware that almost everything is already modified from the original, that being said the only "original parts" on this are the Motherboard, the PSU and the I3 CPU). This said, I can't exactly spend more on the machine for now and I need it. If there is a way to somewhat dodge that option for now, that would be good.

PC Specs:
CPU: Intel I9 10900KF (Or Intel I3 10105)
CPU Cooler: The cooler that came with the I3 10105
Motherboard: Asus Prime H410M-K (The most recent one, which should be 2.20)
RAM: 32GB 2666MHz
SSD: 1TB Crucial (SATA)
GPU: SPARKLE Intel® Arc™ A750 ORC OC Edition, 8GB GDDR6
PSU: Hummer Alpha 600W Bronze
Chassis: AeroCool Cyclon
OS: Windows 11 Pro
Monitor: LG UltraGear 32GS60QC-B 31.5" LED VA QHD 180Hz FreeSync

 

[geofelt]

Failure after a time suggests a heat issue.
The Intel stock cooler is not really good enough to cool an I9.
It is also possible that reinstalling it was not done well.
Run HWmonitor and look for core temperatures of 100c. in red.
That indicates throttling.
You should probably invest in a stronger cooler.
As a temporary measure, turn off some cores.
Do not use motherboard settings such as load optimal defaults.


If you want to remount, here are my canned instructions:
----------------how to mount the stock Intel cooler--------------

The stock Intel cooler can be tricky to install.
A poor installation will result in higher cpu temperatures.
If properly mounted, you should expect temperatures at idle to be 10-15c. over ambient.

To mount the Intel stock cooler properly, place the motherboard on top of the foam or cardboard backing that was packed with the motherboard.
The stock cooler will come with paste pre applied, it looks like three grey strips.
The 4 push pins should come in the proper position for installation, that is with the pins rotated in the opposite direction of the arrow,(clockwise)
and pulled up as far as they can go.
Take the time to play with the pushpin mechanism until you know how they work.
Orient the 4 pins so that they are exactly over the motherboard holes.
If one is out of place, you will damage the pins which are delicate.
Push down on a DIAGONAL pair of pins at the same time. Then the other pair.
When you push down on the top black pins, it expands the white plastic pins to fix the cooler in place.
If you do them one at a time, you will not get the cooler on straight.
Lastly, look at the back of the motherboard to verify that all 4 pins are equally through the motherboard, and that the cooler is on firmly.
This last step must be done, which is why the motherboard should be out of the case to do the job. Or you need a case with a opening that lets you see the pins.
It is possible to mount the cooler with the motherboard mounted in the case, but you can then never be certain that the push pins are inserted properly
unless you can verify that the pins are through the motherboard and locked.

If you should need to remove the cooler, first run the cpu to heat it up and soften the paste before shutting down and powering off the pc. That makes it easy to unstick the old cooler.
Turn the pins counter clockwise to unlock them.
You will need to clean off the old paste and reapply new if you ever take the cooler off.
Clean off old paste with alcohol and a lint free paper like a coffee filter.
Apply new paste sparingly. A small rice sized drop in the center will spread our under heat and pressure.

It is hard to use too little.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Rekyeme]

Failure after a time suggests a heat issue.
The Intel stock cooler is not really good enough to cool an I9.
It is also possible that reinstalling it was not done well.
Run HWmonitor and look for core temperatures of 100c. in red.
That indicates throttling.
You should probably invest in a stronger cooler.
As a temporary measure, turn off some cores.
Do not use motherboard settings such as load optimal defaults.


If you want to remount, here are my canned instructions:
----------------how to mount the stock Intel cooler--------------

The stock Intel cooler can be tricky to install.
A poor installation will result in higher cpu temperatures.
If properly mounted, you should expect temperatures at idle to be 10-15c. over ambient.

To mount the Intel stock cooler properly, place the motherboard on top of the foam or cardboard backing that was packed with the motherboard.
The stock cooler will come with paste pre applied, it looks like three grey strips.
The 4 push pins should come in the proper position for installation, that is with the pins rotated in the opposite direction of the arrow,(clockwise)
and pulled up as far as they can go.
Take the time to play with the pushpin mechanism until you know how they work.
Orient the 4 pins so that they are exactly over the motherboard holes.
If one is out of place, you will damage the pins which are delicate.
Push down on a DIAGONAL pair of pins at the same time. Then the other pair.
When you push down on the top black pins, it expands the white plastic pins to fix the cooler in place.
If you do them one at a time, you will not get the cooler on straight.
Lastly, look at the back of the motherboard to verify that all 4 pins are equally through the motherboard, and that the cooler is on firmly.
This last step must be done, which is why the motherboard should be out of the case to do the job. Or you need a case with a opening that lets you see the pins.
It is possible to mount the cooler with the motherboard mounted in the case, but you can then never be certain that the push pins are inserted properly
unless you can verify that the pins are through the motherboard and locked.

If you should need to remove the cooler, first run the cpu to heat it up and soften the paste before shutting down and powering off the pc. That makes it easy to unstick the old cooler.
Turn the pins counter clockwise to unlock them.
You will need to clean off the old paste and reapply new if you ever take the cooler off.
Clean off old paste with alcohol and a lint free paper like a coffee filter.
Apply new paste sparingly. A small rice sized drop in the center will spread our under heat and pressure.

It is hard to use too little.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok, that appear to be the problem...The thing is , the temperatures never reached that number, at best I was able to register it to 81c.
Also, on idle...Well, not really but with Brave and HWmonitor I'm detecting temperatures of around 41/44c.
Also, regarding the cooler...I did that but I will redo it just to make sure.
Now, the thermal paste was also new.
A little detail is that the place where the machine is doesn't have a good "ventilation"....It has some space to breath, but not much.
Also regarding the Intel cooler, this one is very slim...So, I don't know if that is a problem

 

[kgt1182]

Disable Intel Turbo boost and run on stock speeds.
If thermal issues persist disable E-cores or consider slight undervolting.

 

[DRagor]

You are running into 3 separate problems that add together. First, mobo is insufficient for CPU. Second, cooler is insufficient. Third, PSU might not have enough power for whole system. (and possibly fourth - generic chassis not having good enough airflow). Considering how fast system fails I would assume you are hitting 1st problem - but even if you solve it by buying new mobo you'll hit 2nd and then third. So as far as I see it you have two options: return to old CPU or make a whole remake of your machine (mobo, cooler, PSU and chassis).

 

[Bo Lee]

Hi everyone!
So, I recently just swapped out my old CPU for a better one (It was a Intel I3 10105 and now it's a Intel I9 10900KF) and after having some trouble for the pc to even display any kind of image I was able to finally being able to boot into Windows 11. Now, after some minutes (More precisely, after1/2 minutes) the PC just reboots without even displaying any kind of error message or even the famous windows bluescreen.
Now, I did some light research and found something that should solve the problem, which is to reinstall Windows 11. After trying, in the middle of setting it up, it did the same thing it did earlier...It rebooted in the middle of the Windows 11 installation.
This said, I'm quite frustrated, since it is compatible with my motherboard and there is no lack of resources.
My pc specs:
Motherboard: Asus Prime H410M-K
CPU: I9 10900KF (Might revert to the I3 10105 if this persists)
RAM: 32GB 2666MHz
GPU: Intel Arc A750
Storage: 1TB Crucial SSD

Boot into safe mode and use ddu to unbdstall the arc drivers. i had a very ssimilar issue yesterday afte updatin my arc drivers. had to do that and reinstall the sofdtware and also a ststem restore point, during the driver update it somehow corrupted mty .netfiles and had to reinstall that also

 

[Bo Lee]

So, regarding the motherboard being for office use...That I didn't know. In my country this was sold as an entry gaming desktop for around 400 Euros in 2021(Be aware that almost everything is already modified from the original, that being said the only "original parts" on this are the Motherboard, the PSU and the I3 CPU). This said, I can't exactly spend more on the machine for now and I need it. If there is a way to somewhat dodge that option for now, that would be good.

PC Specs:
CPU: Intel I9 10900KF (Or Intel I3 10105)
CPU Cooler: The cooler that came with the I3 10105
Motherboard: Asus Prime H410M-K (The most recent one, which should be 2.20)
RAM: 32GB 2666MHz
SSD: 1TB Crucial (SATA)
GPU: SPARKLE Intel® Arc™ A750 ORC OC Edition, 8GB GDDR6
PSU: Hummer Alpha 600W Bronze
Chassis: Idk, some generic thing
OS: Windows 11 Pro
Monitor: LG UltraGear 32GS60QC-B 31.5" LED VA QHD 180Hz FreeSync

the salepeople in your country were right https://search.brave.com/search?q=i...conversation=53e9b1e97725aeafae2d20&summary=1

 

[Rekyeme]

You are running into 3 separate problems that add together. First, mobo is insufficient for CPU. Second, cooler is insufficient. Third, PSU might not have enough power for whole system. (and possibly fourth - generic chassis not having good enough airflow). Considering how fast system fails I would assume you are hitting 1st problem - but even if you solve it by buying new mobo you'll hit 2nd and then third. So as far as I see it you have two options: return to old CPU or make a whole remake of your machine (mobo, cooler, PSU and chassis).

Well, one of the issues is already solved which is the cooler one...Now I did have to Limit the CPU to 6/12 for it to run without restarting all the time (8/16 was working fine but if I pushed it harder for more than 1/2 hours it would then restart again). So, I figured the most urgent problem right now is PSU. Also, the chassis is an isn't a problem...I found out what it is, now whether it's a generic chassis or not IDK, all I know is that it is a AeroCool Cyclon. Now, I only have 1 fan in chassis (the one that came with it) and the CPU cooler fan.