Question PC CRASHING NEED HELP

May 14, 2021
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Problem: When i am mid game my PC tends to lose signal and i will hear my game crash in the background, my PC stays on but with no signal, it’s not the HDMI cable as i’ve tried several of them, i’ve checked ALL connections on the motherboard. removed RAM and GPU and reconnected and tried again, still continues to crash. i’ve updated drivers and reset the overclock i had done a long time ago, temps are fine and all parts are compatible. one time it crashed when it booted again it scanned and “fixed” my SSD on the boot screen but nothing has changed. i don’t have a lot of space on my SSD (10GB) but it’s sort of always been the case. my specs
i5 8600
RTX 3070
16GB DDR4 2666MHz
MSI z390
Cooler master 80+ Bronze 650W
2TB HDD 250GB m.2 nvme SSD
any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!!
 
Last edited:

Phaaze88

Titan
Ambassador
May 14, 2021
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helper800

Distinguished
If your screen blacked out but you can hear Windows in the background functioning normally then I would suspect the GPU or GPU drivers as the issue first. Use DDU to uninstall your current GPU drivers and then install the latest Nvidia drivers manually without auto detect or GeForce Experience. If your screen go's black again but you notice windows still running in the background try the following shortcut to reset graphics drivers; Ctrl + Shift + Windows Key + B
 
May 14, 2021
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If your screen blacked out but you can hear Windows in the background functioning normally then I would suspect the GPU or GPU drivers as the issue first. Use DDU to uninstall your current GPU drivers and then install the latest Nvidia drivers manually without auto detect or GeForce Experience. If your screen go's black again but you notice windows still running in the background again try the following shortcut to reset graphics drivers; Ctrl + Shift + Windows Key + B
i had noticed i didn’t have the latest driver but i installed it and restarted but continued to crash afterwards. the GPU is 3 months old so i don’t imagine it would have any issues but i’ll give it a go thank you
 
May 9, 2021
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I had somewhat similar issues even after tons of troubleshooting (including replacing ram, psu). I fixed it by simply updating motherboard BIOS,
 
May 14, 2021
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If your screen blacked out but you can hear Windows in the background functioning normally then I would suspect the GPU or GPU drivers as the issue first. Use DDU to uninstall your current GPU drivers and then install the latest Nvidia drivers manually without auto detect or GeForce Experience. If your screen go's black again but you notice windows still running in the background try the following shortcut to reset graphics drivers; Ctrl + Shift + Windows Key + B
hey so i used ddu to uninstall drivers in safe mode, i then reinstalled the latest drivers and the problem still occurs. it was when i was in games but i had only chrome open before watching youtube and i lost signal. my youtube continued to play and i could pause it with space bar.
 
May 14, 2021
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maybe your hdd is failing. can u shift one game to ssd, remove hdd and then try to run the game??
i can try, i actually recently installed a second hand HDD, but could that cause the PC to lose signal but still run? because i can’t use the PC at all when it crashes it shows my monitors no signal screen. happened just now :/
 
May 9, 2021
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i can try, i actually recently installed a second hand HDD, but could that cause the PC to lose signal but still run? because i can’t use the PC at all when it crashes it shows my monitors no signal screen. happened just now :/
not sure but it might be the cause. You will have to try various methods for troubleshooting the problem so i guess its better to try.
Also, have you tried memtest86 for ram test??
 
May 14, 2021
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not sure but it might be the cause. You will have to try various methods for troubleshooting the problem so i guess its better to try.
i’ve done:
BIOS update
swapped out the GPU
swapped out the RAM
different PCIe cable
checked all connections
ddu and uninstalled gpu drivers and reinstalled
booted through safe mode
erased and overclock settings i had
don’t know what else i can do
 

PC Tailor

Judicious
Ambassador
I would agree with the first comment you received from @Phaaze88.

The CM MWE White is not a great quality PSU and I agree with @helper800 that the issues you've faced would much sooner lend itself to looking at GPU, or the monitor (and cables from GPU to monitor) along with PSU.

You say you have already swapped the GPU, have you also swapped all display cables just to be sure?

Then PSU is the next thing I would look at, especially considering the quality of the unit you have. Then you can always try running SFC on the drive and checking it with some HDD/SSD checking software such as HD Sentinel, CrystalDiskInfo etc.
 
May 14, 2021
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I would agree with the first comment you received from @Phaaze88.

The CM MWE White is not a great quality PSU and I agree with @helper800 that the issues you've faced would much sooner lend itself to looking at PSU, GPU, or the monitor (and cables from GPU to monitor).

You say you have already swapped the GPU, have you also swapped all display cables just to be sure?

Then PSU is the next thing I would look at, especially considering the quality of the unit you have.
i have swapped the cable yes. i have tried two different monitors and did swap out the GPU. what psu would you recommend for my build? as i thought what i had would have done it but apparently not ahah
 

PC Tailor

Judicious
Ambassador
i have swapped the cable yes. i have tried two different monitors and did swap out the GPU. what psu would you recommend for my build? as i thought what i had would have done it but apparently not ahah
It's not that it isn't enough wattage, it's that the quality of it isn't great. Wattage is useless without quality.

I am always a bit reluctant to say "buy a new one" when there is no guarantee that is the answer, it's just a possibility. If you have a friend who has a good quality PSU they are willing to let you test with, that would be better.

There would be nothing wrong with exhausting software tests before buying hardware also, so even though I wouldn't typically expect a failing drive to cause the issue you've described, you've also stated you have seen previous errors relating to your drives, so it would be worth checking them.

Any 650W will be fine, just a good quality one, depends on your budget and local prices.
 
May 14, 2021
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It's not that it isn't enough wattage, it's that the quality of it isn't great. Wattage is useless without quality.

I am always a bit reluctant to say "buy a new one" when there is no guarantee that is the answer, it's just a possibility. If you have a friend who has a good quality PSU they are willing to let you test with, that would be better.

There would be nothing wrong with exhausting software tests before buying hardware also, so even though I wouldn't typically expect a failing drive to cause the issue you've described, you've also stated you have seen previous errors relating to your drives, so it would be worth checking them.

Any 650W will be fine, just a good quality one, depends on your budget and local prices.
is there a way i can see besides using another psu if it is the issue? as i live in a small town and i dont know anybody with another better psu
 

PC Tailor

Judicious
Ambassador
is there a way i can see besides using another psu if it is the issue? as i live in a small town and i dont know anybody with another better psu
No unfortunately. Only very basic tests that won't really help you in this situation. For example:
  • You can monitor and log 12V, 3.3V, and 5V rail voltages over time and see if any of them show any issues (typically if they fluctuate around and outside 5%) however standard widely available software is often inaccurate at being able to get precise measurements, it also requires the system to log under load as this is where issues are likely to occur.
  • You can do a paperclip test on the PSU, however this is useless in your situation as it only tells you if the PSU can power up, not if it is delivering power correctly. Yours can clearly power up, that's more like a DOA type test.
  • You can swap out other components first to see.
With any component, the only truly robust way to test if a component works or not is by replacing it with a known working unit and seeing the results.

I'm looking back at the link you posted for your PSU (I didn't check this originally) and looks like one of the better white models. But could potentially still be a culprit.

Whilst I usually wouldn't recommend throwing everything at the wall and seeing what sticks, it may be worth testing your storage drive and perhaps RAM through memtest, just do see if anything obvious comes up before replacing parts.
 
Reactions: helper800
May 14, 2021
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No unfortunately. Only very basic tests that won't really help you in this situation. For example:
  • You can monitor and log 12V, 3.3V, and 5V rail voltages over time and see if any of them show any issues (typically if they fluctuate around and outside 5%) however standard widely available software is often inaccurate at being able to get precise measurements, it also requires the system to log under load as this is where issues are likely to occur.
  • You can do a paperclip test on the PSU, however this is useless in your situation as it only tells you if the PSU can power up, not if it is delivering power correctly. Yours can clearly power up, that's more like a DOA type test.
  • You can swap out other components first to see.
With any component, the only truly robust way to test if a component works or not is by replacing it with a known working unit and seeing the results.

I'm looking back at the link you posted for your PSU (I didn't check this originally) and looks like one of the better white models. But could potentially still be a culprit.

Whilst I usually wouldn't recommend throwing everything at the wall and seeing what sticks, it may be worth testing your storage drive and perhaps RAM through memtest, just do see if anything obvious comes up before replacing parts.
i tested my ram about 2 hours ago and now i’m testing my HDD, i u plugged the HDD and am going to run the game off my SSD now
 

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