PC Freezing/Crashing While Playing Games

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WigglesR

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Jan 23, 2016
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Built my PC about a year and a half ago (bought from iBP) and have since replaced the PSU, all stock fans and the RAM. Been playing Overwatch/Borderland Pre-Sequel recently and I can only play for about 5-10 minutes on each one before the computer crashes. Temperatures are stable hovering at around 60 degrees c at the time of the crashes. The activity on the GPU and CPU seem fine (from what Speedfan and AMD Radeon are telling me). I've no idea what can be causing this. I've ran into this problem before but it only started getting bad again about two days ago, with about two months since the last major occurrences. (I also run Chrome with YouTube open while playing Pre-Sequel.) I also got an IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL error while playing Pre-Sequel.

Specs:

Operating System
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit
CPU
AMD FX-9590
Vishera 32nm Technology
RAM
16.0GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 669MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
Gigabyte Technology Co. Ltd. 990FXA-UD3 (CPU 1)
Graphics
S24E510C (1920x1080@60Hz)
HP 2159 (1920x1080@60Hz)
2048MB ATI AMD Radeon R9 200 Series (C.P. Technology)
Storage
74GB INTEL SSDSA2M080G2GC SATA Disk Device (SSD)
931GB Western Digital WDC WD10EZEX-75M2NA0 SATA Disk Device (SATA)
Optical Drives
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH24NSC0 SATA CdRom Device
PSU
Corsair RM1000 (1000 watt)
 
Solution
Darkbreeze
Equipment: i7-6700k
Gigabyte Z170X-Gaming 5
16GB G.Skill Tri-X 3000mhz
Sapphire R9 280 (Temp)
EVGA G2 750w
Noctua NH-U14S
with an NF-A14 PWM fan
4 x Aerocool DS 140 red/black case fans with 4 Noctua NF-A15's as backups
Fractal Design Define S
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The IRQL... is generally driver related. I have minimal patience, so when I came across that in a secondary rig, I simply reinstalled the OS.

Realistically though, you can remove/reinstall drivers. You can use DDU to simplify the process. http://www.guru3d.com/files-details/display-driver-uninstaller-download.html

I'd start removing any display drivers, reboot & reinstall the latest drivers from AMD's site
 
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Hope it's software. Backlevel your video card driver to a driver older than the day you started seeing problems. See if things stabilize. If not re download and re-install a fresh copy of the current win10 video driver from amd.

Assume not. Guess its the GPU and do a big underclock -- maybe 20% or more for G{U and Video Memory. You can do this from AMD overdrive, or from your favorite OC'ing tool. See if this takes you from "play for about 5-10 minutes" to no problems. If so suspect the video card. Physically remove it. Blow compressed air ($5 to $10 per can on amazon) into the x16 PCI slot and all over the card. Maybe a part that does not have a temp sensor was getting hot (vrm ?). Remove and re-insert the 6-pin power cable. Reinsert Card. Hope for the best. Sometimes card is not stable because of corrosion on pins, reinserting it fixes that.

If underclocking the card does not help assume some other software problem. Build a new win10 system on a spare drive. See if it has a problem.

GL
 
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Could be ram. Usual test for that is to use stock timings (not XMP or custom), pull one dimm, and run with just the other dimm. Whether or not that works, swap to just the other dimm then to both dimm again. If after a few swap the problem only happens with one dimm then the dimm is likely bad. The multiple swap is both to get more fail data and to re-seat the dimm in the MB.

You don't normally see CPUs fail unless they have been hit with OC'ing voltage on the high end, but parts do fail. You can try underclocking the CPU also. I'd try memory first. How hard have you been pushing the FX-9590? That CPU uses an awesome amount of power even w/o OC'ing. 220W ? Note: if underclocking the CPU helps then it's likely the MB, CPU or PSU. MB voltage regulators would be working hard to give the 200 amps you need (this is almost jump starting car battery amperage)

Checking the MB, the REV4 specs support the 220W from the CPU socket, but rev 1 does not. Any idea what rev your board is ? (Pulling too much power could have hurt the MB over long term. Testing the MB is a pain - the only way I know is a MB swap).

Does you PC fail (lock) only during gaming? Or will it lock up just sitting there ?

Do you think the PC will lock if you run a benchmark suite instead of a game? http://www.3dmark.com/ (That takes some but not all software out of the test)

PSU could cause this also, but that is a really really good PSU and it is loafing in your system. Test would be a swap to another PSU and see if the system still hangs.
 
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Mobo = rev 4.0, the CPU is stock, I haven't touched it via. OC. It's sitting at 4.7 GHz right now. It could be ram, I'll try that after I benchmark. I'll ask my dad if I can swap with his PSU to test, but I'm 99% sure it's not the PSU, that thing is brand new, got it like a month ago. It only locks up while playing games. And only some games, like Rainbow 6 Siege, Borderlands: Pre-Sequel, Overwatch, Rust at ultra, etc.
 
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Meaning you got the same fail with each stick ? Bummer, replacing memory is easy.

Not all parts in a PC have a temp probe. If you look at infrared photos of video cards often the VRM is the hottest spot, not the GPU. And VRMs are not typically monitored. At 200W the VRMs on your motherboard must have a meaty heatsink or a fan. They are likely hotter than the CPU. But they should be OK.

Did you try any software games to see if something in your current software stack is killing you ? (fresh win10 build on spare drive? then load video drivers and games and see if it hangs)

The IRQ problem points to drivers or bad hardware. Maybe reload your audio and chipset drivers from your MB? Get a fresh copy off Gigabytes web site.

If we can't find a way to isolate this we fall into "replace and hope". That how you get drawers full of spare parts.

Any chance of swapping in another video card to see if the cards is bad ? (The underclock test is not perfect), it could still be the card ? This would be the first piece I'd replace if we don't find a way to isolate.

 
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Missed this. So 3D benchmarks do not fail --> that points to a problem in the software stack, not hardware.

 
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I could switch out the GPU with my dads, we did that last time my computer was having this problem, it did nothing. I already reloaded all of my drivers yesterday, including graphics. This is a fairly new copy of W10, like 4/5 weeks or so old. Should I try reloading Windows?
 
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IF you can reload all the data you have on your current windows, then YES, do a format down, clean install of win10. If that fails then we don't worry about partial installs or un-installs that left debris that causes win to fail.

 
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Result of SFC:

Microsoft Windows [Version 10.0.10586]
(c) 2015 Microsoft Corporation. All rights reserved.

C:\WINDOWS\system32>SFC /SCANNOW

Beginning system scan. This process will take some time.

Beginning verification phase of system scan.
Verification 100% complete.

Windows Resource Protection found corrupt files and successfully repaired
them. Details are included in the CBS.Log windir\Logs\CBS\CBS.log. For
example C:\Windows\Logs\CBS\CBS.log. Note that logging is currently not
supported in offline servicing scenarios.

C:\WINDOWS\system32>


I'll run the game and see if that helped, if not, full OS reset.
 
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As per your PM. So you installed fresh drivers, BUT, DID you run the Display driver uninstaller and do a full removal of all driver and registry settings using the DDU before you installed the drivers? If you didn't, I would do so.

If you DID, then I'd probably opt for a clean install of windows to eliminate anything on the system from past transgressions or infections being a possible culprit. I'd also listen to Tradesman, he knows his business.

If the problem was happening before, and returned, then something is persistent. You've changed RAM, so I'm assuming there was a problem with the old RAM or you upgraded to a higher quantity. Sticks fail. Boards fail too.

Could be your board has an issue due to the 9xxx series configuration and voltage. Might try reducing voltage and multiplier by a step or two.

I don't see your cooler listed in your specs. What is it? If you mentioned it elsewhere in the thread I apologize but a brief scan didn't show me any mention of it.

I'd do the clean install first, to eliminate that as a potential issue, and then move forward with troubleshooting hardware if the problem still persists.

http://www.tenforums.com/tutorials/1950-windows-10-clean-install.html


Be sure to follow the instructions EXACTLY, and do a CLEAN install, not just a reinstall or refresh.
 
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How long has that cooler been installed and did you have any issues prior to installing it or only after installing it? What is your case airflow configuration like? CPU could be cool and VRMs or other components NOT be, and create problems. VERY common with FX 9xxx series configurations due to the high power requirements. UD3 is a fairly good board, but the 9xxx series chips are problematic even with Crosshair and other top of the line boards. There are only a couple of boards that I've never seen any issues at ALL on, when using 9xxx series chips. Anyhow, yes, do the clean install, install the manufacturer motherboard drivers, install the GPU card drivers fresh and see what happens.
 
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That's totally wrong. No offense. 99% of cooling schemes should look like this, excepting units with top mounted power supplies and a handful of liquid cooled configurations with top mounted radiators, which you clearly don't have.

2008izm.jpg



Front, side and bottom fans should be intake, blowing INTO the case. Top and rear fans should be exhaust, blowing out. With a top fan blowing in, all you are really doing is recirculating the hot air that naturally rises to the top, back towards your components. I'd switch your side fans to intake, switch the top fan to exhaust and move it to the location towards the rear (Maybe even install another up there as an additional exhaust, make sure your rear fan is set to exhaust, and if you don't have any front intake fans, you seriously need to get and install some, or at least one. Otherwise you have will have a hot air eddy/pocket in the front half of the case.

You may even be overheating the VRMs and RAM with that configuration. Or at the very least, not cooling them well. On the majority of non-overclocked systems, this might not be AS crucial, but with a heat miser 9xxx series machine, cooling is paramount, especially for the motherboard and other components that don't have their own coolers, especially on a liquid cooled system that doesn't give anything the residual airflow an air CPU cooler does.
 
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