[SOLVED] PC only boots up after the second time powering it on

[vinnni]

Hi, I've been having this problem with my computer that started after I removed the BIOS battery to reset it when I was having some other problem - related to my monitor (screen tearing while running games in fullscreen, seems pretty common from what I could find).

Anyway, the situation is that my computer does not boot after I shut it down. After powering it on, it always goes to that "no bootable device -- insert boot disk and press any key " screen.

• Trying to restart it with ctrl+alt+del returns to the same screen, if I access the BIOS, Windows Boot Manager (SSD) does not appear on the available boot devices, usually only the HD; which is used as a storage partition. I noticed that sometimes it doesn't even read the HD as well, it's random.
• However, if I power the computer off and turn it back on for a second time, the computer would usually boots up. Sometimes it'd require more attempts doing this. Recently, what has been happening is that after the second attempt the computer doesn't boot up imediately, but by accessing the BIOS Windows Boot Manager shows up this time, though in #2 at the boot order list and the HD in #1 as shown in Figure 1. Switching this and saving the configuration boots Windows properly but the problem persists afterwards.
• One thing I noticed is that the problem described above happens if I leave the computer turned off for a long period of time (like overnight). However, if I shut the computer down, with windows boot up, and imediately try to turn it back on, WBM doesn't show up in BIOS even after multiple attempts powering on and off. The only solution I found was to remove the BIOS battery, remove the PSU cable and hold the power button down for a few seconds. After doing this, the situation returned to what's described in the second bullet point.

Figure 1​

Here is a list of things that I tried already and didn't work:

1. Swapping the BIOS battery for a new one;
2. Formatting the SSD and installing Windows again;
3. Similar problems found online were solved by disabling the Hibernate option and Fast Boot in power options;
4. Updating the BIOS.

I don't know what else to try, maybe go through a trial and error process to find if there is any faulty part? I.e. removing one ram stick at a time, switching the SATA ports, etc. Some users reported that this was fixed by changing the PSU, though that is the last option that I'd want to try since it'd require me to buy a new one (they aren't that cheap here in Brazil).
Maybe it's some configuration in the BIOS that's causing this? I can provide more images if needed.

Here are the PC specs (built in 2016):
Corsair 600W PSU
PNY 240GB SSD
WD 1TB HD
Intel Core i5-6500
AMD radeon R9 380x
Crucial Ballistix 16gb ram
Gigabyte GA-H110M-A Motheboard

Thanks for the help!

 

[Ralston18]

Seems to be heat related.

Consider: When cold no boot but that effort warms up the system so something heats up, expands, makes a good connection, and leads to a successful boot thereafter.

Power down. Unplug. Open the case.

Check the power and data cables to both the SSD and HDD. Ensure that all are fully and firmly seated. No kinks, no pinches, hard twists. No signs of bare conductor or damage.

Then check that all other cards, cables, RAM, jumpers are likewise in place and secure.

Do so by feel - no just by sight. Unplug and re-plug to be certain.

Determine if first boots are successful.

If not - drive cables: If you have extra power and data cables (hopefully known working) swap them in.

 

[vinnni]

Seems to be heat related.

Consider: When cold no boot but that effort warms up the system so something heats up, expands, makes a good connection, and leads to a successful boot thereafter.

Power down. Unplug. Open the case.

Check the power and data cables to both the SSD and HDD. Ensure that all are fully and firmly seated. No kinks, no pinches, hard twists. No signs of bare conductor or damage.

Then check that all other cards, cables, RAM, jumpers are likewise in place and secure.

Do so by feel - no just by sight. Unplug and re-plug to be certain.

Determine if first boots are successful.

If not - drive cables: If you have extra power and data cables (hopefully known working) swap them in.

Okay so I tried reseating all of the cables and the problem persisted. So I swaped the data cables and powered the SDD with one of the SATA cables from the PSU since I was using a MOLEX to SATA adapter to power it. I thought maybe that adapter would be faulty but doing that didn't solve it. Except this time when I powered the PC on there was no signal on the monitor... After a few power cycles I eventually got that "no bootable device" screen and windows to boot up (still had to go to BIOS and change the boot order between HDD and SSD). Unfortunately I couldn't find a spare power cable so I gotta get one to see if that's the problem.

Edit: Also tried switching the sata ports from 0 and 1 (SSD and HDD respectively) to 2 and 3, no success. I noticed that sometimes when I boot it up, neither the HDD and the SSD show in the 'Boot Option Priorities' show in the Figure above, instead it shows TC58NC1000 which I have no idea what that is. When this happens the HDD does show in the 'Boot Order' located in the Save & Exit tab though. Again, after a couple of reboots this goes back to the situation in Figure 1.

 

[Ralston18]

Next time there is a successful boot look in Reliability History for any error codes, warnings or informational events.

How old is that Corsair 600W PSU? Has the PSU been heavily used for gaming, graphics work, bit-mining?

 

[vinnni]

Next time there is a successful boot look in Reliability History for any error codes, warnings or informational events.

How old is that Corsair 600W PSU? Has the PSU been heavily used for gaming, graphics work, bit-mining?

Hey, I checked the Reliability History and most of the critical events listed are the "Windows wan't shut down correctly" and "Desktop Window Manager stopped working". Can't say if it has anything to do with this issue though, since they are not showing up after I manage to boot the computer. Actually, no error appears there after I get windows to boot. This PSU is from 2013, I used it on a previous built before this current one. And yes, I have been gaming a lot since then (TF2 and CSGO mostly).

I returned home today after leaving the computer on since saturday. I powered it off and after powering it on I got the "insert disk" screen. However, after trying to turn it off and on the monitor didn't get any signal and the keyboard and mouse wouldn't turn on. I had to leave it powered off for several minutes in order for it work again and then go to BIOS to switch to WBM.

Maybe it is indeed a PSU problem?

 

[Calvin7]

Memory is wrong speed. Ballistix is not available in 2133MHz, which is what your motherboard needs.

Restarting is the BIOS readjusting settings to get something that boots up.

 

[vinnni]

Memory is wrong speed. Ballistix is not available in 2133MHz, which is what your motherboard needs.

Restarting is the BIOS readjusting settings to get something that boots up.

So what would be a solution? Never had this problem before, it started a few months ago. Here is how the memory settings in the bios looks:

https://imgur.com/a/bMXCMPM

View: https://imgur.com/a/bMXCMPM

 

[Ralston18]

Does the following link present your motherboard?

https://www.cnet.com/products/gigabyte-ga-h110m-a-1-0-motherboard-micro-atx-lga1151-socket-h110/

(Verify that correctly matched your motherboard).

However, unless I missed something, I did not note any RAM changes. Specs list 2133MHz.

Has the computer been working all along with the same RAM?

A 7+ year old PSU that has been heavily used for gaming would be, in my mind, a prime suspect.

 

[vinnni]

Does the following link present your motherboard?

https://www.cnet.com/products/gigabyte-ga-h110m-a-1-0-motherboard-micro-atx-lga1151-socket-h110/

(Verify that correctly matched your motherboard).

However, unless I missed something, I did not note any RAM changes. Specs list 2133MHz.

Has the computer been working all along with the same RAM?

A 7+ year old PSU that has been heavily used for gaming would be, in my mind, a prime suspect.

Yep, that's the motherboard I have. I built this pc on Dec/2016 or Jan/17, can't remember exactly, but I never changed anything on it, it has been running with the same RAM and components that I listed. Here is the exact RAM I have: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJ6629Z/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_1NgQEb1JDM7JP

I just bought a new power cable, gonna do some tests and if that doesn't work I guess I'll buy a new PSU.

 

[Ralston18]

What do you mean by "a new power cable"?

The cable between the wall outlet and PSU or an internal power connection cable?

If the latter, be very careful about the connection being made.

Very possible to mismatch connectors and that may not end well.

 

[vinnni]

What do you mean by "a new power cable"?

The cable between the wall outlet and PSU or an internal power connection cable?

If the latter, be very careful about the connection being made.

Very possible to mismatch connectors and that may not end well.

Yea, I meant the cable to power the PSU. Swapping it didn't solve the problem either. I am gonna look into a new PSU, really liked the evga 650bq but they are out of stock everywhere...

 

[vinnni]

Does the following link present your motherboard?

https://www.cnet.com/products/gigabyte-ga-h110m-a-1-0-motherboard-micro-atx-lga1151-socket-h110/

(Verify that correctly matched your motherboard).

However, unless I missed something, I did not note any RAM changes. Specs list 2133MHz.

Has the computer been working all along with the same RAM?

A 7+ year old PSU that has been heavily used for gaming would be, in my mind, a prime suspect.

Update: swapped the PSU for a new one ( CX550W) 3 days ago and haven't had any problems booting up. Thanks for all the help given!