Question PC will restart all of a sudden from time to time, without any BSODs ?

Michael_123

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Nov 30, 2015
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Hi! Been a while since I last posted on here, but I'll do my best to explain! :)

For a while now, my PC has restarted from time to time without any warnings or BSODs.

So far, I've tried these steps without any success:
1. Made sure my PC wasn't overheating.
2. Made sure my drivers were updated.
3. Ran a virus scan, malware scan, adware scan, etc.
4. Ran windows memory diagnostic tool.
5. Reseated RAM/placed in other slots.
6. Disabled automatic restart.
7. Updated my BIOS.

My specs are:
-Asus ROG X570 Crosshair VIII Hero WiFi
-Ryzen 9 5950X (not overclocked)
-EVGA RTX 3070 Ti FTW3
-EVGA Supernova G6 650W fully modular
-Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32GB @2933
-Corsair H115i Elite RGB
-Crucial SSD 4TB
-Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB
-Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB
-Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB

I don't know what else to do. 🙁 I'll include the last event viewer log & some extra screenshots. If anyone can assist me with this, it'd be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! :)

event viewer log

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-EVGA Supernova G6 650W fully modular
How old is the PSU in your build? I'd try and source(borrow, not buy) an 850W reliably built PSU and see if that helps alleviate the issue.
I'm not sure how old the PSU is tbh. 🙁 probably 2 years or so? Sadly, i'm not able to borrow another PSU to test out atm. I'll try to save up enough money to get a new one.
 
I'm not sure how old the PSU is tbh. 🙁 probably 2 years or so? Sadly, i'm not able to borrow another PSU to test out atm. I'll try to save up enough money to get a new one.
Please get a reliable PSU with a long warranty of 7-12 years. That length of warranty is usually indicative of the manufacturers confidence in their product and thus the rough quality of the unit.
 
Sadly, I live in Canada, so the prices are gonna be high.
Here are a couple from Canadian retailers:
Super Flower Leadex III Gold UP 850 W
be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 750 W

Just to be clear, getting a new PSU may not fix your issue. It is still unclear if the PSU in your system is the culprit. Usually when you have sudden shutdowns the PSU is the first suspect. Are you getting restarts or shutdowns? If you are getting JUST unexpected power cutoffs then a new PSU would be a great way to rule out the current PSU as the issue or confirm it is what the problem is.
 
Here are a couple from Canadian retailers:
Super Flower Leadex III Gold UP 850 W
be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 750 W

Just to be clear, getting a new PSU may not fix your issue. It is still unclear if the PSU in your system is the culprit. Usually when you have sudden shutdowns the PSU is the first suspect. Are you getting restarts or shutdowns? If you are getting JUST unexpected power cutoffs then a new PSU would be a great way to rule out the current PSU as the issue or confirm it is what the problem is.
I get restarts.
 
Are you sure they are restarts? For instance the PC could be shutting down first, and then starting again. A restart is a continuous on procedure. A restart usually does not see LEDs across the PC turn off, et cetera. Sorry to be so exacting on this point, but the differentiation here can be crucial.
Hmm, maybe it is actually a shutdown & not a restart. 🙁 If that's the case, the likely cause would be a PSU failure, right?
 
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Got any PSU recommendations?
The EVGA G6 650w unit is an excellent power supply built for EVGA by Seasonic. I would not BUY another unit since that one has a ten year warranty, unless of course you got the unit used or as part of an already built system and have no invoice, reciept or warranty information on the unit. Otherwise, I'd RMA it to EVGA because your symptoms definitely sound like they could be PSU related HOWEVER, there are other things that could cause these issues such as overheating of the CPU or graphics card. Have you done ANY monitoring to determine that the issue is not heat related? If so, how did you do it and what did you use to monitor the thermal response?

It could also be something like an overheating cap on the motherboard that is causing a shutdown and restart much as if there had been a power outage. Once it shuts down and restarts, the cap has cooled and will work normally until it heats up again. Other, similar type issues could be occurring as well. But the PSU would normally be the most likely culprit aside from the fact that yours is a pretty good model based on the Seasonic Focus Plus platform. Could also be a memory issue although this would be less likely since usually memory issues will result in a BSOD or other errors, but in some cases, it can happen.

Why are you only running your sticks at 2933MT/s when your CPU and motherboard support much higher clocks? What is the ACTUAL speed your sticks are rated for or what is the exact model? In fact, knowing the exact model would be very helpful in determining if they are even listed as compatible with that board on the Corsair memory finder utility.
 
@helper800 So I did the power test & it came back with zero errors detected. What does that tell me exactly?
OCCT cannot be considered the end all be all. It is a decent tool that can show issues with a PSU, but the test is short, so it cannot reliably test the stability of the power delivered over longer periods of time, or the nitty gritty details of the power output that the PSU is providing. If you have another known to work PSU to test the PSU with, I would do that, however, make sure you do not reuse any PSU cables from any other PSU other than what comes with the original PSU. You only have two options to diagnose a PSU and that is to try another one you have on hand / borrow one, or buy a new one to test. As @Darkbreeze has detailed above, the PSU is not the only possible issue.
 
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The EVGA G6 650w unit is an excellent power supply built for EVGA by Seasonic. I would not BUY another unit since that one has a ten year warranty, unless of course you got the unit used or as part of an already built system and have no invoice, reciept or warranty information on the unit. Otherwise, I'd RMA it to EVGA because your symptoms definitely sound like they could be PSU related HOWEVER, there are other things that could cause these issues such as overheating of the CPU or graphics card. Have you done ANY monitoring to determine that the issue is not heat related? If so, how did you do it and what did you use to monitor the thermal response?

It could also be something like an overheating cap on the motherboard that is causing a shutdown and restart much as if there had been a power outage. Once it shuts down and restarts, the cap has cooled and will work normally until it heats up again. Other, similar type issues could be occurring as well. But the PSU would normally be the most likely culprit aside from the fact that yours is a pretty good model based on the Seasonic Focus Plus platform. Could also be a memory issue although this would be less likely since usually memory issues will result in a BSOD or other errors, but in some cases, it can happen.

Why are you only running your sticks at 2933MT/s when your CPU and motherboard support much higher clocks? What is the ACTUAL speed your sticks are rated for or what is the exact model? In fact, knowing the exact model would be very helpful in determining if they are even listed as compatible with that board on the Corsair memory finder utility.
1. The PSU was used so I can't RMA it.

2. I usually monitor my CPU temps inside the iCue software & my GPU temps with msi afterburner. There doesn't seem to be any heat issues that I noticed.

3. Cause if I run it at anything higher, my PC will shut off/start up a few times before booting back into the BIOS. They're the Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600. (CMW32GX4M2D3600C18)

UPDATE: seems my RAM is holding stability at 3600MT/s, for some reason. :O It never did that before.
 
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Please, for your sake, do this. Download and install HWinfo. I'm going to paste a general reply which I haven't been doing much lately because there hasn't been much reason to but more importantly, because it has all the right steps to help us here. And, from that, a LOT of things could be determined. It would be most useful if you could do stress as outlined and report back. Thanks. We can, and will, go from there.

If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility. Also, don't "tweak" on the fact that this is geared towards graphics card issues, because honestly, it's just for MOST issues.



First,

Make sure your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release. In cases where you DO already have the latest BIOS version, simply resetting the BIOS as follows has a fairly high percentage chance of effecting a positive change in some cases so it is ALWAYS worth TRYING, at the very least.


BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.

It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.

Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens.


Second,

Go to the product page for your motherboard on the manufacturer website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates. When it comes to the chipset drivers, if your motherboard manufacturer lists a chipset driver that is newer than what the chipset developer (Intel or AMD, for our purposes) lists, then use that one. If Intel (Or AMD) shows a chipset driver version that is newer than what is available from the motherboard product page, then use that one. Always use the newest chipset driver that you can get and always use ONLY the chipset drivers available from either the motherboard manufacturer, AMD or Intel.


IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory and SPD tabs. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.



Fourth (And often tied for most important along with an up-to-date motherboard BIOS),

A clean install of the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.


Graphics card driver CLEAN install guide using the Wagnard tools DDU



And last, but not least, if you have never done a CLEAN install of Windows, or have upgraded from an older version to Windows 10, or have been through several spring or fall major Windows updates, it might be a very good idea to consider doing a clean install of Windows if none of these other solutions has helped. IF you are using a Windows installation from a previous system and you didn't do a clean install of Windows after building the new system, then it's 99.99% likely that you NEED to do a CLEAN install before trying any other solutions.


How to do a CLEAN installation of Windows 10, the RIGHT way
 
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Please, for your sake, do this. Download and install HWinfo. I'm going to paste a general reply which I haven't been doing much lately because there hasn't been much reason to but more importantly, because it has all the right steps to help us here. And, from that, a LOT of things could be determined. It would be most useful if you could do stress as outlined and report back. Thanks. We can, and will, go from there.

If there are any steps listed here that you have not already done, it would be advisable to do so if for no other reason than to be able to say you've already done it and eliminate that possibility. Also, don't "tweak" on the fact that this is geared towards graphics card issues, because honestly, it's just for MOST issues.



First,

Make sure your motherboard has the MOST recent BIOS version installed. If it does not, then update. This solves a high number of issues even in cases where the release that is newer than yours makes no mention of improving graphics card or other hardware compatibility. They do not list every change they have made when they post a new BIOS release. In cases where you DO already have the latest BIOS version, simply resetting the BIOS as follows has a fairly high percentage chance of effecting a positive change in some cases so it is ALWAYS worth TRYING, at the very least.


BIOS Hard Reset procedure

Power off the unit, switch the PSU off and unplug the PSU cord from either the wall or the power supply.

Remove the motherboard CMOS battery for about three to five minutes. In some cases it may be necessary to remove the graphics card to access the CMOS battery.

During that five minutes while the CMOS battery is out of the motherboard, press the power button on the case, continuously, for 15-30 seconds, in order to deplete any residual charge that might be present in the CMOS circuit. After the five minutes is up, reinstall the CMOS battery making sure to insert it with the correct side up just as it came out.

If you had to remove the graphics card you can now reinstall it, but remember to reconnect your power cables if there were any attached to it as well as your display cable.

Now, plug the power supply cable back in, switch the PSU back on and power up the system. It should display the POST screen and the options to enter CMOS/BIOS setup. Enter the bios setup program and reconfigure the boot settings for either the Windows boot manager or for legacy systems, the drive your OS is installed on if necessary.

Save settings and exit. If the system will POST and boot then you can move forward from there including going back into the bios and configuring any other custom settings you may need to configure such as Memory XMP, A-XMP or D.O.C.P profile settings, custom fan profile settings or other specific settings you may have previously had configured that were wiped out by resetting the CMOS.

In some cases it may be necessary when you go into the BIOS after a reset, to load the Optimal default or Default values and then save settings, to actually get the hardware tables to reset in the boot manager.

It is probably also worth mentioning that for anything that might require an attempt to DO a hard reset in the first place, IF the problem is related to a lack of video signal, it is a GOOD IDEA to try a different type of display as many systems will not work properly for some reason with displayport configurations. It is worth trying HDMI if you are having no display or lack of visual ability to enter the BIOS, or no signal messages.

Trying a different monitor as well, if possible, is also a good idea if there is a lack of display. It happens.


Second,

Go to the product page for your motherboard on the manufacturer website. Download and install the latest driver versions for the chipset, storage controllers, audio and network adapters. Do not skip installing a newer driver just because you think it is not relevant to the problem you are having. The drivers for one device can often affect ALL other devices and a questionable driver release can cause instability in the OS itself. They don't release new drivers just for fun. If there is a new driver release for a component, there is a good reason for it. The same goes for BIOS updates. When it comes to the chipset drivers, if your motherboard manufacturer lists a chipset driver that is newer than what the chipset developer (Intel or AMD, for our purposes) lists, then use that one. If Intel (Or AMD) shows a chipset driver version that is newer than what is available from the motherboard product page, then use that one. Always use the newest chipset driver that you can get and always use ONLY the chipset drivers available from either the motherboard manufacturer, AMD or Intel.


IF you have other hardware installed or attached to the system that are not a part of the systems covered by the motherboard drivers, then go to the support page for THAT component and check to see if there are newer drivers available for that as well. If there are, install them.


Third,

Make sure your memory is running at the correct advertised speed in the BIOS. This may require that you set the memory to run at the XMP profile settings. Also, make sure you have the memory installed in the correct slots and that they are running in dual channel which you can check by installing CPU-Z and checking the Memory and SPD tabs. For all modern motherboards that are dual channel memory architectures, from the last ten years at least, if you have two sticks installed they should be in the A2 (Called DDR4_1 on some boards) or B2 (Called DDR4_2 on some boards) which are ALWAYS the SECOND and FOURTH slots over from the CPU socket, counting TOWARDS the edge of the motherboard EXCEPT on boards that only have two memory slots total. In that case, if you have two modules it's not rocket science, but if you have only one, then install it in the A1 or DDR4_1 slot.



Fourth (And often tied for most important along with an up-to-date motherboard BIOS),

A clean install of the graphics card drivers. Regardless of whether you "already installed the newest drivers" for your graphics card or not, it is OFTEN a good idea to do a CLEAN install of the graphics card drivers. Just installing over the old drivers OR trying to use what Nvidia and AMD consider a clean install is not good enough and does not usually give the same result as using the Display Driver Uninstaller utility. This has a very high success rate and is always worth a shot.


If you have had both Nvidia and AMD cards installed at any point on that operating system then you will want to run the DDU twice. Once for the old card drivers (ie, Nvidia or AMD) and again for the currently installed graphics card drivers (ie, AMD or Nvidia). So if you had an Nvidia card at some point in the past, run it first for Nvidia and then after that is complete, run it again for AMD if you currently have an AMD card installed.


Graphics card driver CLEAN install guide using the Wagnard tools DDU



And last, but not least, if you have never done a CLEAN install of Windows, or have upgraded from an older version to Windows 10, or have been through several spring or fall major Windows updates, it might be a very good idea to consider doing a clean install of Windows if none of these other solutions has helped. IF you are using a Windows installation from a previous system and you didn't do a clean install of Windows after building the new system, then it's 99.99% likely that you NEED to do a CLEAN install before trying any other solutions.


How to do a CLEAN installation of Windows 10, the RIGHT way
Wow! :O Thanks for all this! I'll try to do all this today & report back! :)