[SOLVED] PC wont post and no keyboard/mouse input after upgrading to Ryzen 5600x and installing Corsair H60 Liquid Cooler

Jun 8, 2021
3
0
10
Hello, I'm new here so not sure of the best way to layout all of the information.

System Specs:
Windows 10 64 bit
Motherboard: Asus TUF B450-PLUS Gaming
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600x (upgrading to Ryzen 5 5600x)
GPU: ZOTAC Nvidia GTX 1070 8GB MINI
RAM: Corsair CMK16GX4M2D3000C16 Vengeance LPX 16gb (2x8gb sticks)
Storage: Samsung 1tb SSD/Kingston 256gb SSD
PSU: Not even sure but I know that's not the issue.

I wanted to upgrade my CPU from my AMD Ryzen 5 2600x to a Ryzen 5 5600x. I bought the new CPU from Amazon and installed it. I did not realise however that the BIOS needed to be updated for this motherboard to be compatible with the 5600x, so the system would not post with the new CPU.

I removed the 5600x and replaced it with my old 2600x so that I could update the BIOS version, as this motherboard doesn't have a BIOS flashback button. I then formatted a USB stick in the correct way and put the update file on the stick, I then updated the BIOS to the new version using the Ez flash tool utility.
After the PC restarted the new BIOS was laggy when moving the cursor like it had low FPS but thought nothing of it. I then installed the new 5600x with the new cooler and the computer booted up fine with the new CPU so it seemed the BIOS update worked fine.

I was playing Battlefield 5 to test the new CPU and I was getting almost double the FPS I had with the 2600x which was great. After playing for about 20 minutes I noticed the CPU temperatures were high, at about 85C under load, but after research it seems its normal for the 5600x to run this hot under load. I decided that I wanted to get a liquid cooler anyway as I wanted the CPU to run cooler than it was.

I bought a Corsair H60 120mm liquid CPU cooler. As it said it supports both Intel and AMD socket I thought it would be an easy install, so I unscrewed and took off the stock wraith stealth cooler, carefully cleaned the thermal paste on the 5600x with acetone, but then realised I was missing the stock AMD mounting bracket that comes with the motherboard. I ordered one off Amazon and put my PC to the side for the day until the bracket arrived.

Yesterday the bracket arrived, I installed it and then was able to install the Corsair H60 liquid cooler. The only issue I had with this was that the cable for the liquid pump that is meant to connect to the 4 pin CPU Fan Header on the motherboard simply did not fit the CPU Fan pins. The cable was for a 3 pin and it would simply not fit onto the CPU fan header as the instructions said, it was too loose and wouldn't click in properly.
The radiator fan and the cable from the cooler into the power supply worked fine though on its own and the cooler LED'S lit up, and I even heard the liquid start pumping through briefly when I turned it on even without the cable connected to the CPU Fan Header.

Now this is where the real issues began. My PC would turn on fine, all fans and RGB running normally, the cooler was on, GPU spinning, but my system would simply not post, no display at all on the monitor, and keyboard and mouse would not respond or turn on no matter which USB port they are in.

Yesterday I spent hours researching and doing trial and error, I unplugged everything from my PC apart from the essentials, still nothing. I tried without RAM, with 1 stick, without GPU, without any other USB's connected, nothing at all. This has left me really confused and feeling helpless, as all I have done since the computer was last working with the new 5600x and playing Battlefield 5 is unscrew the stock cooler, and attach and plug in the new Corsair h60 cooler.
Maybe issues didn't arise at first, maybe it is to do with the laggy BIOS after the update and the new CPU install, but last I know it was working fine before I changed the cooler. After trying everything with the new 5600x and H60, I decided to unplug the H60, take out the 5600x and then reinstall my old 2600x to see if that worked, but still nothing even with old cpu and cooler now, computer turns on with everything running, but no post and no keyboard and mouse input so I can't even get into the BIOS.

I'm really stuck here, so any help and advice would be really appreciated, I feel like somehow it is the motherboard that's the issue, but I'm unsure.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Solution
It's been a decade since a mainstream consumer motherboard had its own integrated graphics (some of the old AM3 motherboards) and Ryzen CPUs that have integrated graphics have a G in the name (3200G, 3400G, etc). You'll never see anything here without a GPU.

At this point, when old components are giving you new trouble now, I would usually breadboard the build outside the case. Reduce the variables and be able to test and swap out parts easily and directly. I'd definitely make sure to double-check the pins on the CPUs too to make sure none got bended.

The PSU information would be very useful. If there's an additional problem, it would make sense to try to resolve any areas of concern. That you don't know the most important part of...
Hello, I'm new here so not sure of the best way to layout all of the information.

System Specs:
Windows 10 64 bit
Motherboard: Asus TUF B450-PLUS Gaming
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600x (upgrading to Ryzen 5 5600x)
GPU: ZOTAC Nvidia GTX 1070 8GB MINI
RAM: Corsair CMK16GX4M2D3000C16 Vengeance LPX 16gb (2x8gb sticks)
Storage: Samsung 1tb SSD/Kingston 256gb SSD
PSU: Not even sure but I know that's not the issue.

I wanted to upgrade my CPU from my AMD Ryzen 5 2600x to a Ryzen 5 5600x. I bought the new CPU from Amazon and installed it. I did not realise however that the BIOS needed to be updated for this motherboard to be compatible with the 5600x, so the system would not post with the new CPU.

I removed the 5600x and replaced it with my old 2600x so that I could update the BIOS version, as this motherboard doesn't have a BIOS flashback button. I then formatted a USB stick in the correct way and put the update file on the stick, I then updated the BIOS to the new version using the Ez flash tool utility.
After the PC restarted the new BIOS was laggy when moving the cursor like it had low FPS but thought nothing of it. I then installed the new 5600x with the new cooler and the computer booted up fine with the new CPU so it seemed the BIOS update worked fine.

I was playing Battlefield 5 to test the new CPU and I was getting almost double the FPS I had with the 2600x which was great. After playing for about 20 minutes I noticed the CPU temperatures were high, at about 85C under load, but after research it seems its normal for the 5600x to run this hot under load. I decided that I wanted to get a liquid cooler anyway as I wanted the CPU to run cooler than it was.

I bought a Corsair H60 120mm liquid CPU cooler. As it said it supports both Intel and AMD socket I thought it would be an easy install, so I unscrewed and took off the stock wraith stealth cooler, carefully cleaned the thermal paste on the 5600x with acetone, but then realised I was missing the stock AMD mounting bracket that comes with the motherboard. I ordered one off Amazon and put my PC to the side for the day until the bracket arrived.

Yesterday the bracket arrived, I installed it and then was able to install the Corsair H60 liquid cooler. The only issue I had with this was that the cable for the liquid pump that is meant to connect to the 4 pin CPU Fan Header on the motherboard simply did not fit the CPU Fan pins. The cable was for a 3 pin and it would simply not fit onto the CPU fan header as the instructions said, it was too loose and wouldn't click in properly.
The radiator fan and the cable from the cooler into the power supply worked fine though on its own and the cooler LED'S lit up, and I even heard the liquid start pumping through briefly when I turned it on even without the cable connected to the CPU Fan Header.

Now this is where the real issues began. My PC would turn on fine, all fans and RGB running normally, the cooler was on, GPU spinning, but my system would simply not post, no display at all on the monitor, and keyboard and mouse would not respond or turn on no matter which USB port they are in.

Yesterday I spent hours researching and doing trial and error, I unplugged everything from my PC apart from the essentials, still nothing. I tried without RAM, with 1 stick, without GPU, without any other USB's connected, nothing at all. This has left me really confused and feeling helpless, as all I have done since the computer was last working with the new 5600x and playing Battlefield 5 is unscrew the stock cooler, and attach and plug in the new Corsair h60 cooler.
Maybe issues didn't arise at first, maybe it is to do with the laggy BIOS after the update and the new CPU install, but last I know it was working fine before I changed the cooler. After trying everything with the new 5600x and H60, I decided to unplug the H60, take out the 5600x and then reinstall my old 2600x to see if that worked, but still nothing even with old cpu and cooler now, computer turns on with everything running, but no post and no keyboard and mouse input so I can't even get into the BIOS.

I'm really stuck here, so any help and advice would be really appreciated, I feel like somehow it is the motherboard that's the issue, but I'm unsure.
After reinstalling the 2600x you should do a clear CMOS. Just take out the battery from your mobo, after having unpluged from electricity.
Wait 10 min. Replace the battery and reconnect
 
Jun 4, 2021
22
0
10
Hello, I'm new here so not sure of the best way to layout all of the information.

System Specs:
Windows 10 64 bit
Motherboard: Asus TUF B450-PLUS Gaming
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600x (upgrading to Ryzen 5 5600x)
GPU: ZOTAC Nvidia GTX 1070 8GB MINI
RAM: Corsair CMK16GX4M2D3000C16 Vengeance LPX 16gb (2x8gb sticks)
Storage: Samsung 1tb SSD/Kingston 256gb SSD
PSU: Not even sure but I know that's not the issue.

I wanted to upgrade my CPU from my AMD Ryzen 5 2600x to a Ryzen 5 5600x. I bought the new CPU from Amazon and installed it. I did not realise however that the BIOS needed to be updated for this motherboard to be compatible with the 5600x, so the system would not post with the new CPU.

I removed the 5600x and replaced it with my old 2600x so that I could update the BIOS version, as this motherboard doesn't have a BIOS flashback button. I then formatted a USB stick in the correct way and put the update file on the stick, I then updated the BIOS to the new version using the Ez flash tool utility.
After the PC restarted the new BIOS was laggy when moving the cursor like it had low FPS but thought nothing of it. I then installed the new 5600x with the new cooler and the computer booted up fine with the new CPU so it seemed the BIOS update worked fine.

I was playing Battlefield 5 to test the new CPU and I was getting almost double the FPS I had with the 2600x which was great. After playing for about 20 minutes I noticed the CPU temperatures were high, at about 85C under load, but after research it seems its normal for the 5600x to run this hot under load. I decided that I wanted to get a liquid cooler anyway as I wanted the CPU to run cooler than it was.

I bought a Corsair H60 120mm liquid CPU cooler. As it said it supports both Intel and AMD socket I thought it would be an easy install, so I unscrewed and took off the stock wraith stealth cooler, carefully cleaned the thermal paste on the 5600x with acetone, but then realised I was missing the stock AMD mounting bracket that comes with the motherboard. I ordered one off Amazon and put my PC to the side for the day until the bracket arrived.

Yesterday the bracket arrived, I installed it and then was able to install the Corsair H60 liquid cooler. The only issue I had with this was that the cable for the liquid pump that is meant to connect to the 4 pin CPU Fan Header on the motherboard simply did not fit the CPU Fan pins. The cable was for a 3 pin and it would simply not fit onto the CPU fan header as the instructions said, it was too loose and wouldn't click in properly.
The radiator fan and the cable from the cooler into the power supply worked fine though on its own and the cooler LED'S lit up, and I even heard the liquid start pumping through briefly when I turned it on even without the cable connected to the CPU Fan Header.

Now this is where the real issues began. My PC would turn on fine, all fans and RGB running normally, the cooler was on, GPU spinning, but my system would simply not post, no display at all on the monitor, and keyboard and mouse would not respond or turn on no matter which USB port they are in.

Yesterday I spent hours researching and doing trial and error, I unplugged everything from my PC apart from the essentials, still nothing. I tried without RAM, with 1 stick, without GPU, without any other USB's connected, nothing at all. This has left me really confused and feeling helpless, as all I have done since the computer was last working with the new 5600x and playing Battlefield 5 is unscrew the stock cooler, and attach and plug in the new Corsair h60 cooler.
Maybe issues didn't arise at first, maybe it is to do with the laggy BIOS after the update and the new CPU install, but last I know it was working fine before I changed the cooler. After trying everything with the new 5600x and H60, I decided to unplug the H60, take out the 5600x and then reinstall my old 2600x to see if that worked, but still nothing even with old cpu and cooler now, computer turns on with everything running, but no post and no keyboard and mouse input so I can't even get into the BIOS.

I'm really stuck here, so any help and advice would be really appreciated, I feel like somehow it is the motherboard that's the issue, but I'm unsure.
Kinda running into same issue except mine wont post with the 5600x at all even with bios update but thankfully I was able to use the 3200g still my old one. I know some motherboards have a thing that they wont post or will throttle cpu if its not attached to the cpufan 4pin next i dont think you should of used the cooler because of this. Most times 3pins will fit into a 4 pin carefully. I would try hooking your old configuration up with the old cpu and see if you can get it to post. Id clear the CMOS maybe too. Best of luck.
 
Jun 8, 2021
3
0
10
After reinstalling the 2600x you should do a clear CMOS. Just take out the battery from your mobo, after having unpluged from electricity.
Wait 10 min. Replace the battery and reconnect

Hi, thank you for your responses.

I have reset the CMOS 5-6 times now by taking out the battery for 10 minutes, jumping the CMLRC pins on the board, and holding the power button for 10-15 seconds on the case, but still nothing sadly.

I'm aware that 3 pins can connect to 4 pins fine on the motherboard normally, but for some reason with this specific 3 pin cable from the liquid cooler it wont slot in to the CPU fan header as it says it should on the instructions, I'm not sure why but it will only go on very loosely like its not connected and wont clip in.

I've also tried using the onboard graphics without a GPU connected and still nothing, I suppose it could be the CPU but I have tried with both the 2600x and the 5600x and it wasn't posting with either, the only thing I can think of is somehow the motherboard isn't working properly, I don't know if the power supply could be a culprit, as everything powers on fine its just the display and keyboard/mouse input.

This is all just weird as the new CPU was working fine after I did the BIOS update, I was playing BF5 with almost double FPS, I put my computer to the side until I had the components to change to the liquid cooler, and since that change it hasn't been posting...very strange.

I haven't been able to use my PC for close to a week now and I'm thinking about just buying another motherboard, if you do have any other suggestions I'd be grateful though :).
 

DSzymborski

Curmudgeon Pursuivant
Moderator
It's been a decade since a mainstream consumer motherboard had its own integrated graphics (some of the old AM3 motherboards) and Ryzen CPUs that have integrated graphics have a G in the name (3200G, 3400G, etc). You'll never see anything here without a GPU.

At this point, when old components are giving you new trouble now, I would usually breadboard the build outside the case. Reduce the variables and be able to test and swap out parts easily and directly. I'd definitely make sure to double-check the pins on the CPUs too to make sure none got bended.

The PSU information would be very useful. If there's an additional problem, it would make sense to try to resolve any areas of concern. That you don't know the most important part of your PC is definitely a source of worry! We wouldn't want to resolve your issue just to have some cheapo fake 500W PSU fry your GPU a month from now.

You can save some time and energy by returning the H60. 120mm AIOs almost never make sense outside of small form factor builds. They're lousy performers and Ryzen CPUs will try and leverage your cooling as much as possible in order to wring out every last bit of performance.
 
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