[SOLVED] PC won't post.. same exact issue I have had to fix twice already!!

zacharythach

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Hello everybody, before I start, yes, I have read the sticky and performed all steps on it, except for the breadboarding part as I currently do not have enough time to do so.
This issue is definitely the most annoying issue I have ever had, in all of my life. So about a year ago, my PC suddenly stopped posting. The fans would turn on, and after every couple minutes it would reboot and fail to post. I solved this problem by getting a new motherboard, and the PC worked completely fine for about 6-7 months before I ran into the same exact problem; the PC failed to post the fans turned on, and rebooted every couple minutes. I solved this issue yet again by installing a brand new PSU, and the PC worked for maybe around 3 months before.. what do you know?? It's the SAME EXACT issue. I've spent hours on hours in the past working to diagnose and solve the problem, and I'm just about ready to give up on on this PC and sell the parts. What should I do? At this point I'm open to ANY help at all, it's getting extremely frustrating trying to maintain this computer.

Specs:
CPU: Intel Core i7 4790k (LGA1150 Socket)
GPU: MSI GTX 980Ti Gaming 6G
PSU: Corsair RM750i
MOBO: Supermicro Micro-ATX DDR3 2600 C7Z97-M-O
RAM: G Skill Sniper Series 16GB DDR3 1866 Model F3-1866C9D-16GSR
CASE: Azza Csaz-XT1B
SSD: Samsung SSD 850 Pro (512 GB)
OS: Windows 10 64 bit

In the past, I thought that my broken USB ports on the front of the case caused a short to my motherboard, so after getting the new motherboard I never plugged in those usb ports to my mobo, only the working USB 3.0 ports. When the same issue occurred, I had the mobo sent in to Supermicro to diagnose any problems, and they said it was working perfectly fine, so I bought the new PSU. Now, I'm suspecting it might actually be a mobo issue, since it's been about a year with the new mobo. I couldn't find any better motherboards, since the socket type/chipset I require is no longer in production, so I had to settle for this one. Is it just time to scrap this build and build a new PC? Every temperature was fine, except for my CPU which was teetering on getting too hot, reaching around 75 degrees when gaming for several hours. The PC was working completely fine, with no errors until this morning, when it would not post.
 
Solution
The power supply should be turned on, and video cable into onboard graphics? 1 stick of ram? SSD plugged in? About how long would it take, and should I be worried if it doesn't do anything?
Before do anything costy, just disassemble entire thing, give it a quick dust down/clean then re-seat everything (cmos batter out entire time)

Yes, extract the files, the psu needs to be on, the flash is from a usb, the mobos that have the flash button have a usb port (works as a normal port) marked as the flash port (where pc will read for the bios). Maintain power, the computer will reboot on its own, unplug your hard drives if you want (to prevent going any further past bios, this way you can catch it).

As for what boju said about...

boju

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Which slots? The red slots are the primary slots.

So do you still get no display if populate only the first red slot with either stick of ram?

Try, turn off your monitor leave it for a couple of minutes. After which, turn your PC on and monitor shortly afterwards.
 

zacharythach

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Which slots? The red slots are the primary slots.

So do you still get no display if populate only the first red slot with either stick of ram?

Try, turn off your monitor leave it for a couple of minutes. After which, turn your PC on and monitor shortly afterwards.

Yeah I tried the first and second red slots with both sticks of ram individually, should I also try the black ones? I still get no display, because it doesn't post; there's no beep code.
 

boju

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I went through your manual regarding beep codes. I'm not sure, did it ever beep before when the system did post properly? According to the manual, the way they wrote it, appears it'll beep if there's a problem but not if post succeeds. There's only three beep codes listed relating to errors, there's no indicating beep code for power on self test.

During the POST (Power-On Self-Test) routines, which are performed each time the system is powered on, errors may occur.

Non-fatal errors are those which, in most cases, allow the system to continue with bootup. The error messages normally appear on the screen. Fatal errors will not allow the system to continue to bootup.

If a fatal error occurs, you should consult with your system manufacturer for possible repairs.These fatal errors are usually communicated through a series of audible beeps. The numbers on the fatal error list correspond to the number of beeps for the corresponding error

I'm wondering it may not be the motherboard/ram at all but possibly, video card or the monitor? Try a different monitor or Tv? Have you tried removing the gpu and test with igpu?
 

Does it work

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I mean, to be clear, you have at least shorted the cmos and ran everything at stock right? Flashed newest bios?

If so, just strip pc back to the minimum, cpu, its cooler and 1 stick of ram. Use the integrated graphics.

Though many reviews of that mobo do lean towards its becomes defective quite easily. If you like the current performance of your system, a cheap am4 mobo and 2600 would be able to match it
 

zacharythach

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I went through your manual regarding beep codes. I'm not sure, did it ever beep before when the system did post properly? According to the manual, the way they wrote it, appears it'll beep if there's a problem but not if post succeeds. There's only three beep codes listed relating to errors, there's no indicating beep code for power on self test.



I'm wondering it may not be the motherboard/ram at all but possibly, video card or the monitor? Try a different monitor or Tv? Have you tried removing the gpu and test with igpu?
Alright so yeah, it did used to beep when the system posted properly. It was kind of a jumble of around 4 beeps and it would do that everytime it posted, in the past. The monitor is fine, it works with another computer. I just took out the gpu and tried the onboard graphics: same problem.
 

zacharythach

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I mean, to be clear, you have at least shorted the cmos and ran everything at stock right? Flashed newest bios?

If so, just strip pc back to the minimum, cpu, its cooler and 1 stick of ram. Use the integrated graphics.

Though many reviews of that mobo do lean towards its becomes defective quite easily. If you like the current performance of your system, a cheap am4 mobo and 2600 would be able to match it
Yes, I've taken out the cmos battery for around 15 seconds, and put it back in. I also have tried using a new cmos battery, but to no effect. I tried using just cpu, its cooler, and 1 stick of ram with integrated graphics but this also had no effect on the issue.

Edit: How would I go about flashing the new bios? There is a button that the manual describes as "BIOS Restore Button." Should I just press this button when psu is unplugged?
 

Does it work

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If you have JBAT pins use those, the battery method would rather 5 minutes over 15 seconds, just touch the 2 pins with a screw driver. Make sure to spam delete key (or whatever your bios key is, delete tends to be a secondary on most mobos) a tonne as soon as you give system power also, some screens (like mine) wont load up in time to show bios accessibility so it seems like it fails right off the bat.

As for the bios flash, you need to go to the the manufacturers website and download the latest bios flash onto an empty usb, plug that into your system and hit the bios flash button, don't let it get interrupted while its flashing, because you wont have a bios full stop if it does, all goes well, everything will update and you should be able to reset to stock and post.
 

zacharythach

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If you have JBAT pins use those, the battery method would rather 5 minutes over 15 seconds, just touch the 2 pins with a screw driver. Make sure to spam delete key (or whatever your bios key is, delete tends to be a secondary on most mobos) a tonne as soon as you give system power also, some screens (like mine) wont load up in time to show bios accessibility so it seems like it fails right off the bat.

As for the bios flash, you need to go to the the manufacturers website and download the latest bios flash onto an empty usb, plug that into your system and hit the bios flash button, don't let it get interrupted while its flashing, because you wont have a bios full stop if it does, all goes well, everything will update and you should be able to reset to stock and post.
There aren't any JBAT pins, instead there's also just a clear cmos button that I have pressed to no effect. Since there's no display at all, I can't spam my bios key as it never gets that far.
I will try to flash the bios. Just to be clear, I'm downloading the latest bios, putting the contents (BIOS ROM, Flash utility, and Readme instructions) onto the USB, and plugging it in. Would I need to unzip the file and extract before doing so? The power supply should be turned on, and video cable into onboard graphics? 1 stick of ram? SSD plugged in? About how long would it take, and should I be worried if it doesn't do anything? Sorry for the many questions, I'm just worried that it will cause irreparable problems (I read somewhere that you shouldn't update BIOS as it can lead to problems).

Also, I found out that when I press the power button, all the fans spin normally and whatever lights there are turns on, but the PSU fan spins for a split second and then stops spinning while all other fans are spinning. Does this mean anything for the PSU, or do the fans simply only turn on when it gets hot enough?
 

boju

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The cpu cooler's fan is plugged on the cpu_fan header isn't it? Having this not connected to the exact header can prevent system from properly starting as the motherboard doesn't know if the cpu is being cooled and protects it.
 

zacharythach

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Fan operation is normal, see zero rpm fan mode

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categ...upply-Units/rmi-series-config/p/CP-9020082-NA

I doubt updating bios would do anything as the motherboard already has a functional bios and was working.

But if you want to try, the bios file needs to be extracted, no folders, on a fat32 formatted usb stick.

Okay, thank you! I'm actually going to stop by Frys tomorrow and see if I can get a replacement for my PSU first, just in case it actually is the PSU because it's literally the same exact problem and symptoms as when I had to first replace it. I know this PSU is reliable, just going to see if I perhaps got unlucky. And yes, the cpu cooler fan is connected to the header with label Fan 1/ CPU. I'll find out if its the PSU's fault, if not I'll try flashing BIOS, and if that doesn't work I think I might have to buy a new mobo :/
 

Does it work

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The power supply should be turned on, and video cable into onboard graphics? 1 stick of ram? SSD plugged in? About how long would it take, and should I be worried if it doesn't do anything?
Before do anything costy, just disassemble entire thing, give it a quick dust down/clean then re-seat everything (cmos batter out entire time)

Yes, extract the files, the psu needs to be on, the flash is from a usb, the mobos that have the flash button have a usb port (works as a normal port) marked as the flash port (where pc will read for the bios). Maintain power, the computer will reboot on its own, unplug your hard drives if you want (to prevent going any further past bios, this way you can catch it).

As for what boju said about functional bios, yes it is functional, but sometimes driver updates may cause an issue, or they work, but not optimally. My mobo kept failing post till I flashed it, even though it was supposed to work out of box.
 
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Solution

boju

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As for what boju said about functional bios, yes it is functional, but sometimes driver updates may cause an issue, or they work, but not optimally. My mobo kept failing post till I flashed it, even though it was supposed to work out of box.

No installed or updated drivers in Windows should affect bios nor prevent post. Power on self test is pre Windows/drivers. Failed post is hardware related, be it incompatibilities, failing components or steps missed assembling the machine.
 

zacharythach

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Before do anything costy, just disassemble entire thing, give it a quick dust down/clean then re-seat everything (cmos batter out entire time)

Yes, extract the files, the psu needs to be on, the flash is from a usb, the mobos that have the flash button have a usb port (works as a normal port) marked as the flash port (where pc will read for the bios). Maintain power, the computer will reboot on its own, unplug your hard drives if you want (to prevent going any further past bios, this way you can catch it).

As for what boju said about functional bios, yes it is functional, but sometimes driver updates may cause an issue, or they work, but not optimally. My mobo kept failing post till I flashed it, even though it was supposed to work out of box.
Alright thank you! I'm pretty sure I can get a replacement for free, so I can at least try. Everything's clean, and I reseated everything including the CPU and reapplied thermal paste when I first tried to fix the problem. I did download the new Nvidia game ready drivers either yesterday or the day before, so that might've had an effect; I'll definitely try flashing bios tomorrow after seeing if I can get a free replacement. I don't see a USB port marked as the flash port, but I'll read into the manual to see if it provides any information about that.
 

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No installed or updated drivers in Windows should affect bios nor prevent post. Power on self test is pre Windows/drivers. Failed post is hardware related, be it incompatibilities, failing components or steps missed assembling the machine.
Yes, ideally they shouldn't, but some software can modify the bios settings (dragon center etc), whether this modification is benign or not depends on the software though.
 

boju

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Yes, ideally they shouldn't, but some software can modify the bios settings (dragon center etc), whether this modification is benign or not depends on the software though.

Yes true albeit, these sorts of programs, to prevent post would have had the user change values to upset cmos parameters making the system unstable. Either clearing cmos or updating bios (which resets cmos parameters anyway) would reverse settings made via programs.

Drivers for hardware ie gpu drivers the op mentioned, should have no affect during post.
 

Does it work

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Yes true albeit, these sorts of programs, to prevent post would have had the user change values to upset cmos parameters making the system unstable. Either clearing cmos or updating bios (which resets cmos parameters anyway) would reverse settings made via programs.

Drivers for hardware ie gpu drivers the op mentioned, should have no affect during post.
unless there is malicious software involved, I know someone who was tinkering away with something pretty nasty, sets the voltage on everything through the roof and fries the pc. Don't know why he does what he does, but he doesn't have malicious intent, point stands though, if he can do something like that, I'm sure others with darker intents could also mess around.
 

boju

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unless there is malicious software involved, I know someone who was tinkering away with something pretty nasty, sets the voltage on everything through the roof and fries the pc. Don't know why he does what he does, but he doesn't have malicious intent, point stands though, if he can do something like that, I'm sure others with darker intents could also mess around.

He's obviously got deep pockets.

I agree, damage can be done so fingers crossed it isn't the case here.