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Build Advice PLEASE HELP. I have built 10 computers over 15 years and I have never not been able to diagnose the problem, until now. Computer won't turn on, + more

Jul 22, 2023
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Hello, I am earnestly asking for any help anyone can give me here. This problem has skyrocketed into many hours and days of frustration and exhaustion. For reference, I have been more than 10 computers in the last 15 years and am an enthusiast. I decided to upgrade some components, primarily GPU recently and it has turned into a never-ending nightmare. Below I will list the components and ALL the issues I have and what I have already tried to do to fix them:



B760 Elite AX Motherboard aorus (Gigabyte) [new component]

RTX 4070 Ti [new]

i5 13600kf [new]

Hyper 212

750cxm psu corsair

2x16 vengeance ddr5 [new]

980 pro 1tb Samsung (m.2 nvme is in the correct slot closest to the cpu)



Day 1:

Computer won't turn on. Can not figure out why. All connections are right. I reseat RAM, CPU, and do the paperclick trick (psu is fine). After pushing in the power switch two pin connector from the case it turned on. I thought that's all it was. That was not it.

After the computer turns on, I update everything, the chipset, the bios, wifi, gpu, everything.

Day 2:


After setting RAM to xmp and VERY conservatively overclocking with msi afterburner which I have experience doing with two other cards, I get three different error messages and bsods and freezing up during gameplay and also just browsing. All three errors are relating to hardware issues. I think it is the overclock and so I turn it down. Keeps happening. Turn it down, keeps happening. REMOVED THE ENTIRE OVERCLOCK BACK TO DEFAULT, KEEPS HAPPENING.

Day 3:

Read about how some motherboards do badly with the default settings for xmp so I disable xmp and decide I will fiddle with the ram manually later. To my sad surprise, the freezing keeps happening. Now my mouse and keyboard and all other usb and bluetooth devices randomly disconnect.

Day 4:

I run sfc /scannow and it does find and repairs some corrupted files. I think maybe that's all it was. I start going down the whole list of components, running memtest which returned 0 errors, testing the cpu, and gpu, and hard disk for errors, just to be sure. all seems fine. I start playing halo infinite and even though I seemingly have 140 fps, it feels choppy and awful. I exit the game and a new problem emerges. when I open file explorer, it seems delayed, taking about 4 or 5 seconds. I start to notice that anything I open, no matter what it is, is delayed. when I type, sometimes it lags and hickups for a few seconds. so I think it is the ssd. I check with samsung magician and on a 980 pro it says the read and write speed is less than 300. that's my problem! my ssd is degraded or failing for some reason. (it's not, I believe it is the connection on the mobo and not the ssd itself)

Day 5:


I get new 1tb drive (wd sn850x) and replace it in the m.2 slot closest to the cpu to start the process of downloading windows and everything else. THE COMPUTER NOW WILL NOT TURN ON. Back to square one. I check the psu with the paperclip trick, it is fine. I use different psu and connectors to see if that is it, nothing. I change the outlet it is getting power from, nothing, I check the possibly loose power switch connector again nothing. now here is where it gets strange. when my arm brushes against the 24 pin connector, the computer TURNS ON, without me pressing anything, although there is no signal to the peripherals or display. I can not recreate that since. ANOTHER STRANGE THING, I at one time slightly loosened one of the screws on the mobo thinking the seating was wrong even though I had already checked that, and the computer turned on again. Again, I could not recreate that again.

Day 6:


Finally, after testing everything and ruling out almost everything, I just have come to the conclusion that the motherboard might be faulty. I have ordered another one hoping that is all it is and that my problems will dissapear.

I know this is a lot to read and help with but please someone that has experienced anything like this or can at least reaffirm my idea as to the bad mobo or some other idea, I would really appreciate the help! I am at a loss and feeling very frustrated. THANK YOU.
 
Last edited:
and do the paperclick trick (psu is fine).
No. You can't use paperclip test to determinate if PSU works fine. All what it does, is turning the PSU on, with 0 load on it.

Same is when you turn the car engine on, and once the engine starts, you instantly assume the car drives just fine, WITHOUT doing the actual test drive.
So, no. Paperclip test doesn't tell almost anything.

All-in-all, your MoBo seemed to die on you. Why? Hard to tell.
But if i'd had to guess, i'd suspect the mediocre quality PSU (which you cheaped out on), compared to using high-end hardware. Oh, your CPU cooler is also a poor one.

Also, if you're enthusiast builder, how come you didn't breadboard your MoBo beforehand? 🙄 Thus making sure that everything works fine?
 
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No. You can't use paperclip test to determinate if PSU works fine. All what it does, is turning the PSU on, with 0 load on it.

Same is when you turn the car engine on, and once the engine starts, you instantly assume the car drives just fine, WITHOUT doing the actual test drive.
So, no. Paperclip test doesn't tell almost anything.

All-in-all, your MoBo seemed to die on you. Why? Hard to tell.
But if i'd had to guess, i'd suspect the mediocre quality PSU (which you cheaped out on), compared to using high-end hardware. Oh, your CPU cooler is also a poor one.

Also, if you're enthusiast builder, how come you didn't breadboard your MoBo beforehand? 🙄 Thus making sure that everything works fine?
You really think a cx750m corsair would cause a system not to boot? The motherboard is 6 days old to be clear, also.
 
Unless you use top-of-the-line PSU (e.g Seasonic PRIME TX, Corsair AXi, Super Flower Leadex Titanium), you can not rule out PSU issue. Especially since your PSU isn't good enough build quality. CXm is only good for office builds, without dedicated GPU. But for any build with dedicated GPU, especially when using high-end hardware, better quality PSU should be used.

Questionable quality PSU can damage (and kill) all and any hardware it is connected to. Also your new MoBo has warranty, RMA it and get a replacement. If 2nd MoBo also dies on you within few days, get better PSU. (I'd go with better PSU before frying 2nd MoBo, less hassle this way.)
 
Unless you use top-of-the-line PSU (e.g Seasonic PRIME TX, Corsair AXi, Super Flower Leadex Titanium), you can not rule out PSU issue. Especially since your PSU isn't good enough build quality. CXm is only good for office builds, without dedicated GPU. But for any build with dedicated GPU, especially when using high-end hardware, better quality PSU should be used.

Questionable quality PSU can damage (and kill) all and any hardware it is connected to. Also your new MoBo has warranty, RMA it and get a replacement. If 2nd MoBo also dies on you within few days, get better PSU. (I'd go with better PSU before frying 2nd MoBo, less hassle this way.)
Do you think EVGA 1000 GT would be more appropriate for this build?
 
Do you think EVGA 1000 GT would be more appropriate for this build?

I think you should go with PSU that has 3.0 and direct connecter to GPU with my 4080 when first got it faced no dispaly because the PCI cables would not turn on my GPU had that extension to connect it with. So rushed to gaming store and bought 3,0 Power Supply and it still running good and pefect. So try and get PSU that are being made for the 4070Ti and above! 750cxm psu corsair been made since 2016 so maybe Your PSU is not strong enough to power on 40s cards since you might off used it for long time

850W MSI MPG A850G
1000W Corsair RM1000e
850W Corsair RM850e

There many 3,0 PSU out there at the moment and think thats best choice now!
 
Pre-ATX 3.0 PSUs with adapter can work with RTX 40-series just fine. But for peace of mind, ATX 3.0 PSU is a good option.

Besides the 3 named above, other top-end ATX 3.0 PSUs include;
MSI MEG Ai1000P, review: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/msi-meg-ai1000p-pcie-5-atx-v30-power-supply-review
Seasonic Vertex GX or PX, review: https://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/seasonic-vertex-gx-1000-100w-atx30-psu-review.html
And latest release of Seasonic PRIME PX or TX ATX 3.0, article: https://www.techpowerup.com/310278/...-prime-px-and-prime-tx-atx-3-0-power-supplies

Oh, EVGA SuperNova GT is also a solid PSU. Top tier.
 
while you're waiting for your new PSU, do you have any old GPUs laying around to make it an office build?

I do every build that way, rough-in the mobo / cpu + fan / ram with no wire clean-up, throw in an old CXM and a 730GT or integrated video just to get windows installed to see if it's stable. Makes troubleshooting much easier 🤓
 
@hoofhand. I at one time slightly loosened one of the screws on the mobo thinking the seating was wrong even though I had already checked that, and the computer turned on again.

When the computer turned on after you loosened a mounting screw, did you remove the motherboard from the case and check for any mounting pillars in the wrong place, e.g. left over from a previous build, which would have caused a short circuit?

As @Aeacus suggested, have you breadboarded the system out of the case yet. It would eliminate any potential short circuits to ground, but the damage may already have been done.

I checked the power rating of the i5-13600KF on the Intel web site:
Processor Base Power = 125W
Maxiumum Turbo Power = 181W

Whether or not the 13600KF gets up to 181W outside benchmarking stress tests I have no idea, but it will certainly get hot when boosting.
https://www.intel.com/content/www/u...-24m-cache-up-to-5-10-ghz/specifications.html

I tried to discover the TDP rating of the Evo 212, but couldn't find any figures on the Coolermaster site.

I did find a discussion on Linus Tech Tips where they theorised the 212's power rating was about 140W.
https://linustechtips.com/topic/799416-hyper-212-evo-tdp/

You might consider a replacement Noctua cooler compatible with the i5-13600KF.
There's the compact NH-12A/NH-D12L range with 12cm fans.
Or the much larger NH-D15 range with 14/15cm fans.
https://ncc.noctua.at/cpus/model/Core-i5-13600KF-1639
N.B. Noctua quote NSPR instead of TDP as the rating for their coolers.

Be Quiet Dark 3 and Dark Rock 4 are excellent coolers and significantly cheaper than Noctua.
https://www.bequiet.com/en/cpucooler/1376

Obviously, there are plenty of excellent water cooling systems available, including 240/360mm AIO.

Go on, treat yourself to a better cooler, especially if you intend to overclock the 13600KF.