Problem with Home Network Ethernet Speeds (GreyFox Home Systems)

[FLRM]

When sending the ethernet signal from my modem in my office to my GreyFox F7810 home system through the ethernet outlet in the wall and then out to another room, I sometimes get the 100mbps download that I should be getting but other times I only get 10mbps, how can I make it so that it is always 100mbps and I don't have to unplug and replug several times to get my full internet speed?
The connection up until the home system (modem>computer or modem>wall>computer) is always 100 mbps, when it gets to the DATA cable in/out on the home system is when it lowers (or doesn't if I'm lucky) the speed. I have tried directly from the hub to my computer and from the F7810 home gatweay hub to another room and get the same results every time: sometimes 100mbps sometimes 10 mbps...

 

[kanewolf]

This DEFINITELY sounds like a cable problem. Could be the short cable from the device (either end) to the wall or could be in between. Start with a BRAND NEW cable from the devices to the wall at both ends. If that doesn't change anything, then take the wall plate apart and check the wiring. It is possible that the wire in the wall(s) is not cat5 or better. You won't know until you start checking.

 

[FLRM]

This DEFINITELY sounds like a cable problem. Could be the short cable from the device (either end) to the wall or could be in between. Start with a BRAND NEW cable from the devices to the wall at both ends. If that doesn't change anything, then take the wall plate apart and check the wiring. It is possible that the wire in the wall(s) is not cat5 or better. You won't know until you start checking.

Well I accidentally selected it as the solution *facepalm*

But it is not any of the cable wiring because the cable from the modem to the wall, to the computer without the cable going through the greyfox hub is 100mbps every time I try. The connection speed only goes down when the connection goes through the hub. It is something with the hub because if the connection goes to the hub and then to my laptop without going to the other room it is sometimes 100 mbps and sometimes 10 mbps, which is the same thing that is happening when it connects in the other room.

 

[kanewolf]

Doing a quick Google search, it looks like the GrayFox is a structured home wiring box. It isn't obvious what type of network hardware it has in it.

Do you have a Cat 5 tester? I would still look VERY closely at the quality of the wiring, make sure that everything follow 568B color code and that all 8 wires are connected everywhere. To me this still seems like a wiring problem somewhere ...

Something (switch in the GrayFox?) is trying to autonegotiate. It isn't successful in negotiating 100mbit all the time and sometimes falls back to 10Mbit.

 

[FLRM]

Doing a quick Google search, it looks like the GrayFox is a structured home wiring box. It isn't obvious what type of network hardware it has in it.

Do you have a Cat 5 tester? I would still look VERY closely at the quality of the wiring, make sure that everything follow 568B color code and that all 8 wires are connected everywhere. To me this still seems like a wiring problem somewhere ...

Something (switch in the GrayFox?) is trying to autonegotiate. It isn't successful in negotiating 100mbit all the time and sometimes falls back to 10Mbit.

The wiring seems good quality but the ones coming out of all the rooms to the box I think are all 568A, would that make a difference? I don't have a Cat 5 tester, though.

I get that the switch is trying to autonegotiate and isn't working, but that means it is a problem with the switch then, doesn't it? Because the same cable that the switch sometimes autonegotiates to 100mb and sometimes to 10mb, which comes from the room with the modem, always gets 100mb if it goes straight to the laptop and not through the switch.

 

[kanewolf]

Doing a quick Google search, it looks like the GrayFox is a structured home wiring box. It isn't obvious what type of network hardware it has in it.

Do you have a Cat 5 tester? I would still look VERY closely at the quality of the wiring, make sure that everything follow 568B color code and that all 8 wires are connected everywhere. To me this still seems like a wiring problem somewhere ...

Something (switch in the GrayFox?) is trying to autonegotiate. It isn't successful in negotiating 100mbit all the time and sometimes falls back to 10Mbit.

The wiring seems good quality but the ones coming out of all the rooms to the box I think are all 568A, would that make a difference? I don't have a Cat 5 tester, though.

I get that the switch is trying to autonegotiate and isn't working, but that means it is a problem with the switch then, doesn't it? Because the same cable that the switch sometimes autonegotiates to 100mb and sometimes to 10mb, which comes from the room with the modem, always gets 100mb if it goes straight to the laptop and not through the switch.

It might be a switch problem. A new generic (not GrayFox mountable) switch is an easy way to test.

568A is OK as long as it is consistent. From scratch, I recommend 568B.

 

[FLRM]

Doing a quick Google search, it looks like the GrayFox is a structured home wiring box. It isn't obvious what type of network hardware it has in it.

Do you have a Cat 5 tester? I would still look VERY closely at the quality of the wiring, make sure that everything follow 568B color code and that all 8 wires are connected everywhere. To me this still seems like a wiring problem somewhere ...

Something (switch in the GrayFox?) is trying to autonegotiate. It isn't successful in negotiating 100mbit all the time and sometimes falls back to 10Mbit.

The wiring seems good quality but the ones coming out of all the rooms to the box I think are all 568A, would that make a difference? I don't have a Cat 5 tester, though.

I get that the switch is trying to autonegotiate and isn't working, but that means it is a problem with the switch then, doesn't it? Because the same cable that the switch sometimes autonegotiates to 100mb and sometimes to 10mb, which comes from the room with the modem, always gets 100mb if it goes straight to the laptop and not through the switch.

It might be a switch problem. A new generic (not GrayFox mountable) switch is an easy way to test.

568A is OK as long as it is consistent. From scratch, I recommend 568B.

The house came with the ethernet cables already installed as well as the greyfox system. Are there any other switches that do not require an outlet for power? There are no power outlets where all the cables meet to power the switch.... Or any other solution to get ethernet from the room with the modem to the other room with my desktop?

Thanks,
FLRM

 

[BuddhaSkoota]

Are there any other switches that do not require an outlet for power? There are no power outlets where all the cables meet to power the switch.... Or any other solution to get ethernet from the room with the modem to the other room with my desktop?

If you just need to connect the two rooms together and the cables in the panel are terminated with RJ45 plugs, you can purchase a coupler to join the two cables in the panel.

Edit: Just wanted to add that your current issue is likely due to having no network switch. The GreyFox is a patch panel only, meaning the jacks in your home are essentially wired directly together. This is good for telephone service, but extremely bad for Ethernet. The coupler will fix the issue since it is eliminating the signal degradation from running to multiple jacks.

 

[FLRM]

Doing a quick Google search, it looks like the GrayFox is a structured home wiring box. It isn't obvious what type of network hardware it has in it.

Do you have a Cat 5 tester? I would still look VERY closely at the quality of the wiring, make sure that everything follow 568B color code and that all 8 wires are connected everywhere. To me this still seems like a wiring problem somewhere ...

Something (switch in the GrayFox?) is trying to autonegotiate. It isn't successful in negotiating 100mbit all the time and sometimes falls back to 10Mbit.

Are there any other switches that do not require an outlet for power? There are no power outlets where all the cables meet to power the switch.... Or any other solution to get ethernet from the room with the modem to the other room with my desktop?

If you just need to connect the two rooms together and the cables in the panel are terminated with RJ45 plugs, you can purchase a coupler to join the two cables in the panel.

Perfect, thank you.

 

[FLRM]

Are there any other switches that do not require an outlet for power? There are no power outlets where all the cables meet to power the switch.... Or any other solution to get ethernet from the room with the modem to the other room with my desktop?

If you just need to connect the two rooms together and the cables in the panel are terminated with RJ45 plugs, you can purchase a coupler to join the two cables in the panel.

Edit: Just wanted to add that your current issue is likely due to having no network switch. The GreyFox is a patch panel only, meaning the jacks in your home are essentially wired directly together. This is good for telephone service, but extremely bad for Ethernet. The coupler will fix the issue since it is eliminating the signal degradation from running to multiple jacks.

Thanks for the idea, but the coupler did not fix the issue and I still sometimes get 10mbps or 100mbps, any ideas what could be going on?..

Why does it auto negotiate to 10mbps sometimes, that is what I don't understand? What makes it not constant?

 

[BuddhaSkoota]

Thanks for the idea, but the coupler did not fix the issue and I still sometimes get 10mbps or 100mbps, any ideas what could be going on?..

Why does it auto negotiate to 10mbps sometimes, that is what I don't understand? What makes it not constant?

You used the coupler to join only the cables to the two rooms (modem room and computer room), effectively bypassing equipment in the panel? If so, I'd recommend looking at the wiring behind the wallplates to be sure there is only one cable to each jack. You should also ensure each jack is wired correctly (colors match at each jack).

The NIC will drop to 10Mbs when there is trouble keeping it from connecting at full speed. This could be due to improperly terminated plugs or jacks, significant noise on the cable or attenuation due to length.

If you can't find an issue through visual inspection, you may have to resort to getting the jacks and/or plugs re-terminated. You may want to test the other segment of cable by temporarily placing the modem or PC at the panel. Unfortunately it takes cable testing equipment to properly determine faults that may not be readily apparent visually.

 

[kanewolf]

I agree with @BuddhaSkoota -- If you have bypassed everything in the box and still have problems then you are either going to have to pay an installer to come and test your wiring and find out what is wrong or buy test equipment and do it yourself. It is not difficult to do but the test equipment runs from $50 for a set that will tell you if all the wires are connected to >$1000 which will tell if the connection meets all the specs for Cat5 or 6.

 

[FLRM]

I agree with @BuddhaSkoota -- If you have bypassed everything in the box and still have problems then you are either going to have to pay an installer to come and test your wiring and find out what is wrong or buy test equipment and do it yourself. It is not difficult to do but the test equipment runs from $50 for a set that will tell you if all the wires are connected to >$1000 which will tell if the connection meets all the specs for Cat5 or 6.

I'm pretty sure it is the connection to my room is the only one where the speeds fluctuate like that. In any other room I always get 100mbps. I will have someone come check it out and hopefully fix the connection to my room. Of course the only ethernet I need to work in the entire house is the one to my room... Well, thanks for the help anyways.