Question Problem with my GTX 1080 Ti - - - or is it something else ?

[Miki248]

I have this serious issue with my PC.
Sometimes the PC crashes at the very beginning when MSI loading screen appears. And sometimes it randomly crashes after some time while casually using the computer such as browsing the web, playing games etc. In the second case usually numerous pixels appear on the screen, it freezes and crashes.

I think that the issue is the Display adapter or graphic card itself, because when I go to the Device Manager and choose Display adapters there is an exclamation mark on my NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti, and when I choose properties on it, there is a message saying "Device status: Windows has stopped this device because it has reported problems. (Code 43). Recently, I can't even play games and also there is no sound output anymore.

I tried everything I could think of. The voltage or PSU has no issues, it has more than enough capacity. Even windows clean reinstall didn't help.

I did the clean uninstall of drivers with DDU in safe mode with no Internet connection and did a clean install of latest nvidia drivers. After I did this it worked, the sound was back and the graphic card was recognized. However, as soon as I tried to test it with Heaven Benchmark it worked only for about 30 seconds, afterwards pc went frozen, changed to black screen, and restarted Windows. Afterwards, same issue: no sound, gpu is not recognized and can't even start the heaven benchmark test.

Here are my PC specs:
- Processor AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 8-Core Processor GHz
- 16 GB RAM
- Windows 11 Pro 64-bit OS
- ACPI x64-based PC
- MSI MS-7B78
- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti

Is the problem with the graphic card only or something else? Should I just buy a new graphic card and be able to solve the problem?

Thank you.

 

[Aeacus]

The voltage or PSU has no issues, it has more than enough capacity.

PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?

However, as soon as I tried to test it with Heaven Benchmark it worked only for about 30 seconds, afterwards pc went frozen, changed to black screen, and restarted Windows.

Symptom of dying GPU.

Now, GPU could die on it's own, or is caused by PSU. Without knowing which PSU you have + it's age, i can't tell if you should look toward new PSU too or not. So, answer the 1st two questions i asked.

 

[Miki248]

PSU make and model (or part number) is? Also, how old the PSU is, and was the PSU bought new or used/refurbished?


Symptom of dying GPU.

Now, GPU could die on it's own, or is caused by PSU. Without knowing which PSU you have + it's age, i can't tell if you should look toward new PSU too or not. So, answer the 1st two questions i asked.

Thank you for the reply.
The PSU model is FSP RAIDER II 750W Silver ++. I bought this configuration as used two years ago, so I'm not exactly sure how old is it...

 

[stonecarver]

At the very, very least have you checked the card for dust and or time to re paste.

Easy way to check is hold a flashlight up to the fan on the card than look in the card from the back of the machine where you plug in the HDMI/ Display port cords.

You have to look into the card like you looking down a gun scope to see properly.

If you can see the light clearly down the heatsink than card is at least cooling properly. If you see all dark it's clogged.

I will let Aeacus guild you about the power supply.

 

[Miki248]

At the very, very least have you checked the card for dust and or time to re paste.

Easy way to check is hold a flashlight up to the fan on the card than look in the card from the back of the machine where you plug in the HDMI/ Display port cords.

You have to look into the card like you looking down a gun scope to see properly.

If you can see the light clearly down the heatsink than card is at least cooling properly. If you see all dark it's clogged.

I will let Aeacus guild you about the power supply.

Thank you for the comment.
I'm a total noob for this and the only maintenance I've ever done so far is opening the case and using an air duster 1-2 times a year. Could you please tell me more details of where exactly should I take a look? I'll take a screenshot and send it soon.

 

[Miki248]

At the very, very least have you checked the card for dust and or time to re paste.

Easy way to check is hold a flashlight up to the fan on the card than look in the card from the back of the machine where you plug in the HDMI/ Display port cords.

You have to look into the card like you looking down a gun scope to see properly.

If you can see the light clearly down the heatsink than card is at least cooling properly. If you see all dark it's clogged.

I will let Aeacus guild you about the power supply.

Here are the screenshots.

https://ibb.co/NNcWcgk

DSC-1214 hosted at ImgBB

Image DSC-1214 hosted in ImgBB

ibb.co

 

[Aeacus]

The PSU model is FSP RAIDER II 750W Silver ++. I bought this configuration as used two years ago, so I'm not exactly sure how old is it...

FSP Raider II 750W was released back in 2016 and it has high ripple issues. Also, it wasn't good PSU back then, more like mediocre/low quality unit.

Given that your PSU isn't good one to begin with and you bought it used, which is even worse idea, it is very likely that your used FSP unit killed your fancy GTX 1080 Ti.

Since you're running R7 3700X which doesn't have iGPU in it, you need 2nd, dedicated GPU, to validate GPU issue. And new PSU is a must as well.

Good PSUs to go for, are: Seasonic Focus/Vertex/PRIME, Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi, Super Flower Leadex Gold/Platinum/Titanium.
Or if you want the latest ATX 3.0/3.1 PSU, then list is here: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atxv3-pcie5-ready-psus-picks-hardware-busters/

(My 3x PCs are also powered by Seasonic. I have 2x PRIME TX-650 units and one Focus PX-550 unit. Full specs with pics in my sig.)

Now, without knowing which GPU you end up going, to replace your GTX 1080 Ti, PSU wattage also depends on it.
If RTX 4090, then minimum 1.2kW unit, while 1.6kW is better suited.
If RTX 4080/Super, then minimum 1kW unit.
RTX 4070 Ti and Ti Super do fine with 750W unit.
RTX 4060, 4060 Ti, 4070 and 4070 Super do fine with 650W unit.

With PSUs, having more wattage capacity doesn't hurt. Issue is if you have too less wattage capacity.

 

[Miki248]

FSP Raider II 750W was released back in 2016 and it has high ripple issues. Also, it wasn't good PSU back then, more like mediocre/low quality unit.

Given that your PSU isn't good one to begin with and you bought it used, which is even worse idea, it is very likely that your used FSP unit killed your fancy GTX 1080 Ti.

Since you're running R7 3700X which doesn't have iGPU in it, you need 2nd, dedicated GPU, to validate GPU issue. And new PSU is a must as well.

Good PSUs to go for, are: Seasonic Focus/Vertex/PRIME, Corsair RMx/RMi/HXi/AXi, Super Flower Leadex Gold/Platinum/Titanium.
Or if you want the latest ATX 3.0/3.1 PSU, then list is here: https://hwbusters.com/best_picks/best-atxv3-pcie5-ready-psus-picks-hardware-busters/

(My 3x PCs are also powered by Seasonic. I have 2x PRIME TX-650 units and one Focus PX-550 unit. Full specs with pics in my sig.)

Now, without knowing which GPU you end up going, to replace your GTX 1080 Ti, PSU wattage also depends on it.
If RTX 4090, then minimum 1.2kW unit, while 1.6kW is better suited.
If RTX 4080/Super, then minimum 1kW unit.
RTX 4070 Ti and Ti Super do fine with 750W unit.
RTX 4060, 4060 Ti, 4070 and 4070 Super do fine with 650W unit.

With PSUs, having more wattage capacity doesn't hurt. Issue is if you have too less wattage capacity.

Thank you for the information and tips.
I kinda feel devastated that I would have to buy new PSU as well if you really think it's a must.
As for the GPU, my budget would be MSI GeForce RTX 3060 VENTUS 2X 12G OC Gaming Graphics Card.
As for the PSU, I could probably afford 70-80 dollars max, so I'm not sure what should I buy for that amount...

 

[Miki248]

When I tried turning on my PC now, it can't even go past the BIOS loading screen anymore, just stops there frozen... I really hope that it's just the PSU and GPU issue, I can't afford more than that...

 

[Aeacus]

As for the GPU, my budget would be MSI GeForce RTX 3060 VENTUS 2X 12G OC Gaming Graphics Card.
As for the PSU, I could probably afford 70-80 dollars max, so I'm not sure what should I buy for that amount...

RTX 3060, with transient power spikes (2-3 times TDP), would require 650W unit.

Luckily for you, Corsair RMx 750W is currently on sale on the Egg, at 80 bucks,
link: https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rmx-...50-w-80-plus-gold-certified/p/N82E16817139271

Good quality PSU, 10 years warranty, fully-modular, 80+ Gold efficiency.

When I tried turning on my PC now, it can't even go past the BIOS loading screen anymore, just stops there frozen... I really hope that it's just the PSU and GPU issue, I can't afford more than that...

At this point, you can consider everything that was connected to that FSP unit - dead.

This is the price of cheaping out on PSU. Since when PSU acts up, it has the magical ability to fry everything it is connected to. Aka your whole PC. And the lower the PSU build quality is - the higher the chance that PSU takes other components with it.

Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.

Hence why NEVER cheap out on PSU!
Also, never buy used PSU either! Because you have 0 idea what kind of abuse the PSU has seen and if it even outputs voltages within spec.
Sadly for you, you did both wrong. Cheap and used PSU.

MoBo is usually 1st to go when PSU acts up. GPU is followed closely by. RAM and CPU are more durable but not invulnerable either.

At this point, don't power the PC on until you've replaced the PSU. Once you have proper PSU powering the build, then look if GPU acts up again or not (could be the high ripple issue that makes GPU unstable). But if no dice, new GPU is needed. But current symptoms also showcase CPU, MoBo or RAM issue. Could be that all three are toast as well.

 

[Miki248]

RTX 3060, with transient power spikes (2-3 times TDP), would require 650W unit.

Luckily for you, Corsair RMx 750W is currently on sale on the Egg, at 80 bucks,
link: https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rmx-...50-w-80-plus-gold-certified/p/N82E16817139271

Good quality PSU, 10 years warranty, fully-modular, 80+ Gold efficiency.


At this point, you can consider everything that was connected to that FSP unit - dead.

This is the price of cheaping out on PSU. Since when PSU acts up, it has the magical ability to fry everything it is connected to. Aka your whole PC. And the lower the PSU build quality is - the higher the chance that PSU takes other components with it.

Since PSU powers everything, it is the most important component inside the PC.

Hence why NEVER cheap out on PSU!
Also, never buy used PSU either! Because you have 0 idea what kind of abuse the PSU has seen and if it even outputs voltages within spec.
Sadly for you, you did both wrong. Cheap and used PSU.

MoBo is usually 1st to go when PSU acts up. GPU is followed closely by. RAM and CPU are more durable but not invulnerable either.

At this point, don't power the PC on until you've replaced the PSU. Once you have proper PSU powering the build, then look if GPU acts up again or not (could be the high ripple issue that makes GPU unstable). But if no dice, new GPU is needed. But current symptoms also showcase CPU, MoBo or RAM issue. Could be that all three are toast as well.

Thank you for your time and dedication regarding my issue, I really appreciate it.
This is really a tough situation then...
Unfortunately, my location is not supported for that store and I cannot find that PSU model here. Here is what I found for similar price here:

- SUPER FLOWER LEADEX SE PLATINUM 1000W
- Super Flower LEADEX III GOLD ARGB 850W
- SUPERFLOWER LEADEXⅢ GOLD 850W
- Thermaltake RGB 850W Platinum

They're about 20-30 dollars more expensive though. Which one of these should be the best? If none, any other suggestions?

 

[Aeacus]

Which one of these should be the best?

All three Super Flower units are good/great quality.

But i'd avoid Thermaltake. Thermaltake does have some good units, but you need to be very specific with the model. E.g the one you listed is one of the few. But overall, when you have Super Flower or Seasonic to choose from, these two are better than Thermaltake.

Also, when it comes to PSUs, better to avoid all and any LEDs or RGB LED fans in them. Since with RGB LED fan, you'd be paying for the RGB, rather than the actual build quality for the PSU. Now, few Thermaltake and Super Flower RGB LED PSUs are good, like the ones you listed.

Reviews;
Leadex SE Platinum: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/super-flower-sf-1000f14mp/
Leadex III Gold: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/super-flower-leadex-iii-850-w/
Leadex III Gold ARGB: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/super-flower-leadex-iii-argb-gold-850-w/
Grand RGB Platinum: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermaltake-toughpower-grand-rgb-850w-platinum-power-supply

Leadex SE Platinum was released back in 2013, with 5 year warranty and it would be difficult to suggest at current date. (Due to the platform being 11 years old now.)
Leadex III Gold was released in 2019 and Leadex III Gold ARGB in 2020. Either of these two would do fine. Both also have 7 years of warranty. Tt Grand RGB has 10 years of warranty and released in 2019 as well.

For comparison, Seasonic Focus (fully-modular) has 10 years of warranty, while Seasonic Vertex and Seasonic PRIME have 12 years of warranty.

 

[Miki248]

All three Super Flower units are good/great quality.

But i'd avoid Thermaltake. Thermaltake does have some good units, but you need to be very specific with the model. E.g the one you listed is one of the few. But overall, when you have Super Flower or Seasonic to choose from, these two are better than Thermaltake.

Also, when it comes to PSUs, better to avoid all and any LEDs or RGB LED fans in them. Since with RGB LED fan, you'd be paying for the RGB, rather than the actual build quality for the PSU. Now, few Thermaltake and Super Flower RGB LED PSUs are good, like the ones you listed.

Reviews;
Leadex SE Platinum: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/super-flower-sf-1000f14mp/
Leadex III Gold: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/super-flower-leadex-iii-850-w/
Leadex III Gold ARGB: https://www.techpowerup.com/review/super-flower-leadex-iii-argb-gold-850-w/
Grand RGB Platinum: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermaltake-toughpower-grand-rgb-850w-platinum-power-supply

Leadex SE Platinum was released back in 2013, with 5 year warranty and it would be difficult to suggest at current date. (Due to the platform being 11 years old now.)
Leadex III Gold was released in 2019 and Leadex III Gold ARGB in 2020. Either of these two would do fine. Both also have 7 years of warranty. Tt Grand RGB has 10 years of warranty and released in 2019 as well.

For comparison, Seasonic Focus (fully-modular) has 10 years of warranty, while Seasonic Vertex and Seasonic PRIME have 12 years of warranty.

Thank you again!
So, the best option would be Super Flower LEADEX III GOLD ARGB 850W? Sorry for all capitals, I copy/pasted the title.

 

[Aeacus]

So, the best option would be Super Flower LEADEX III GOLD ARGB 850W?

Both, the Leadex III Gold and Leadex III Gold ARGB are equally good.

 

[Miki248]

Both, the Leadex III Gold and Leadex III Gold ARGB are equally good.

Ok, I ordered the Leadex III Gold one, should arrive this week.
Should I first try replacing only the UPS unit and check if it is working properly? And if there are still issues then replace the GPU as well?
I'm sorry for asking so much but could uou please tell me where I can find easy to follow and safe tutorial that has all the steps for replacing both the UPS and GPU? I checked on youtube but there are so many different ones that it's hard to determine which way of doing is correct...

 

[mikemid]

you seems to be tried almost everything! you could try different windows (dual windows) it solves alot, when screen goes black, press Windows key + P or Ctrl + Alt + Del to reset the screen's graphics system.