PSU tier list 2.0

kwa-e · Jan 12, 2016

It's probably closest to fireworks if anything.

Karadjgne · Jan 12, 2016

True that, had my old toaster for @ 8 years. Wouldn't give that Herculean disaster that amount of trust.

Saga Lout · Jan 12, 2016

I was thinking just the other it's high time we had a tier list for toasters.

kwa-e · Jan 12, 2016

Karadjgne :

At least you have something to spark at new years.

kwa-e · Jan 12, 2016

Saga Lout :

To be honest this really wouldn't be bad of an idea, Toasters are still hardware by the definition aren't they :v

Saga Lout · Jan 12, 2016

Absolutely. There are some PSUs in Tier 5 that would make better toasters than many toasters.

kwa-e · Jan 12, 2016

Saga Lout :

Rating the toasters by how magnificent their explosions are would be a much better comparison though.

Onus · Jan 12, 2016

PureBlackFire :

No. This might have been a typo, but it is important enough to fix. Power in Watts=voltage in Volts x current in Amps (P = E x I)
The other one is Voltage in Volts = current in Amps x Resistance in Ohms (E = I x R).

Darkbreeze · Jan 12, 2016

Yeah, that's definitely NOT right.

On another note, it might not be far fetched to assume a toaster tier list might be needed at some point with most kitchen appliances being internet ready with IOT technology these days.

stavrosmast · Jan 12, 2016

Can a 850w evga g2 power the following?
i7-4790k stock
gtx 980 ti SLI OC
1x500gb ssd
1x4tb hdd
1x1tb hdd
6 case fans
hyper 212 evo

Darkbreeze · Jan 12, 2016

Yes, it should be capable of that, no problem.

turkey3_scratch · Jan 12, 2016

Onus :

I'm so used to seeing watts = amps * volts that I didn't even noticed he mixed them up!

I actually watched a video today of a guy who cooked bacon on his gun barrel.

Onus · Jan 12, 2016

I saw that video! Off topic for here though; perhaps it would be possible to cook bacon on an Apevia PSU-shaped object, and least until some grease dripped into it. Now there would be a spectacular PSU detonation, and it would probably actually smell good.

turkey3_scratch · Jan 12, 2016

I would think it'd only be a matter of time before a PSU shows up in a court case. I mean, it is absolutely shocking that these things are legally sold in the U.S. Units that catch fire very quickly, or just damage your entire computer, and have completely lies and falsehoods about the specifications. Maybe someday I'll take a PSU company to court. I could easily win against the Hercules 500W, it's just sad how bad that thing is, and the court would realize it.

pianoplayer88key · Jan 12, 2016

Speaking of legally (or not) selling PSUs in the US, I was thinking maybe it should be illegal to sell (except on the used market like craigslist? and in those cases it should be clearly mentioned in the ad) any PSU that JonnyGuru would start to dock points for in performance, stability, etc. Or, at least, no sales of Tier 5 PSUs, and limited sales of Tier 4 and Tier 3 PSUs.

I've been keeping my eyes on hardware to be able to help my parents build a computer when they're ready to replace their 7.5 year old laptop. (My dad a couple months ago said he would like to get a desktop.) They're not gamers at all, probably just typical home use, but I'm not going to put less than a Tier 2 PSU in their computer, with the possible sole exception (since they're un-tiered) of an OEM SeaSonic unit that's Haswell compatible and has a 120mm fan.

Also I was thinking, would it be possible to consider having a short list of slightly older PSUs that may be discontinued, but still decent enough in some situations? (Nothing that was below Tier 3 would make this list.)

And I was waxing nostalgic a little and thinking about older hardware, like Pentium III's, 486's, even back to 286's, etc. If someone wanted to get one of those running again and needed to replace the PSU, what would be general recommendations? Would a Tier 5 PSU (or something with less than 75% of its power on the 12V rail) work for a really old system that has a higher concentration of power use on the 5V and 3.3V rails, or would a 12V-centric PSU still be the recommended solution for those PCs?
For example if my brother or I wanted to get this PC up and running again...
https://goo.gl/photos/vj1i6wuNXnFhoRpY9
would the PSU recommendation be much different for that older hardware compared to a modern PC?

turkey3_scratch · Jan 12, 2016

Yeah older PSUs do have more amperage on the 5V and 3.3V rails, not to mention that they may even have different types of connectors. Well, the only real different connector may be the motherboard connector. Initially it was an ATX12V 1.x cable which had 6 pins, then was increased to 12 pins, and now we are at 24.

Now, according to Hardwaresecrets, the 12-pinner was compliant with the AT standard, not the ATX standard, and the 6-pin cable was mostly with sockets 423 and 478. Unfortunately, that's all the information I got on that

in those time periods, early 2000s, I was just playing on some Dell computer of some sort never imagining I would fall in love with hardware.

Karadjgne · Jan 12, 2016

You are forgetting the 20 pin which was/is still standard for some psus and some motherboards. The 20+4 became ATX standard, and still is for most, if not all, non enthusiast class psus. It's only the high end psus aimed at high end enthusiast class boards that are full 24pin, most 20+4pin just being a marketing strategy, since it'll fit either style. Just as some eps are 4 pin, some 4+4 and some are a full 8pin.

pianoplayer88key · Jan 13, 2016

Ahh, I was aware of the 20+4, but don't specifically recall the 12 or 6 pin connectors.

Another thing I was thinking, too... at least for people who want a "simple" answer to what PSU to get ... are there general rules on which brands, or OEMs, are usually "good enough"? I'm guessing something like SeaSonic and EVGA are usually always good (or at least won't blow when stressed), Corsair is usually good except the CX, Super Flower is good, etc. I'm mostly talking about for non-enthusiast hardware. For enthusiast hardware I'm guessing of those names, mostly the SeaSonic X or Platinum (or new Prime?), EVGA G2/P2/T2, Corsair AX/i, and the Super Flower on which the aforementioned EVGAs are built would be recommended, right? Or what would be general broad-reaching recommendations for or against, if blanket statements could be made on any particular brands?

And what might happen if you put a newer high-quality PSU, like one of the current Tier 1 Platinum or Titanium units, in a much older PC like an 8086 or 286 with comparable hardware to what those would have had included with them when new? Or would that be a case when a Tier 4 or even a Tier 5 might be more appropriate?

kwa-e · Jan 13, 2016

pianoplayer88key :

Ahh, I was aware of the 20+4, but don't specifically recall the 12 or 6 pin connectors.

Another thing I was thinking, too... at least for people who want a "simple" answer to what PSU to get ... are there general rules on which brands, or OEMs, are usually "good enough"? I'm guessing something like SeaSonic and EVGA are usually always good (or at least won't blow when stressed), Corsair is usually good except the CX, Super Flower is good, etc. I'm mostly talking about for non-enthusiast hardware. For enthusiast hardware I'm guessing of those names, mostly the SeaSonic X or Platinum (or new Prime?), EVGA G2/P2/T2, Corsair AX/i, and the Super Flower on which the aforementioned EVGAs are built would be recommended, right? Or what would be general broad-reaching recommendations for or against, if blanket statements could be made on any particular brands?

And what might happen if you put a newer high-quality PSU, like one of the current Tier 1 Platinum or Titanium units, in a much older PC like an 8086 or 286 with comparable hardware to what those would have had included with them when new? Or would that be a case when a Tier 4 or even a Tier 5 might be more appropriate?

Aren't there cheap 300W supplies that SS makes that can fit in tier 2?

Copernicus89 · Jan 13, 2016

I'm trying to decide between 3-4 550W Modular PSUs, all sell for around 100€: the Super Flower Leadex Gold, EVGA SuperNova and Corsair RMX. I'm also considering the Leadex Titanium which sells for 115€.
Which one should I pick? My system holds a 2600K and a GTX760 which I plan to upgrade eventually.

kwa-e · Jan 13, 2016

Copernicus89 :

Any of those are good, Though I'd personally go for the Leadex unit.

And all you really need to upgrade to have a great gaming experience is the GPU, the 2600K is still reasonably fast and keeps up with the latest i7's when overclocked.

Copernicus89 · Jan 13, 2016

kwa-e :

Which Leadex, the Gold or Titanium one? Is there any significative real-world difference?
I wasn't planning to update the processor but just the GPU, anyway I will still wait for a year or so probably. Thanks for the comment though.

kwa-e · Jan 13, 2016

Copernicus89 :

kwa-e :

Which Leadex, the Gold or Titanium one? Is there any significative real-world difference?
I wasn't planning to update the processor but just the GPU, anyway I will still wait for a year or so probably. Thanks for the comment though.

Not much noticeable difference between gold and platinum, pick whatever's cheapest.

turkey3_scratch · Jan 13, 2016

Jonnyguru updated the scoring system for voltage regulation now. Anything above or equal to 0.5% now gets a deduction. So the EVGA 1000W T2 got deducted because regulation on the 12V rail was 0.5% exactly. Anything below is considered "mystic" instead of excellent now.

PureBlackFire · Jan 13, 2016

Onus :

holy.... that was definitely a typo. thanks for correcting that.

PSU tier list 2.0

Admirable

Titan

Retired Mod

Admirable

Admirable

Retired Mod

Admirable

Titan

Retired Mod

Honorable

Retired Mod

Expert

Titan

Expert

Distinguished

Expert

Titan

Distinguished

Admirable

Reputable

Admirable

Reputable

Admirable

Expert

Reputable

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