PSU tier list 2.0

[Karadjgne]

No reason it shouldn't.

 

[stavrosmast]

Good 😀 thanks

 

[tiny voices]

Yes I would get the XFX.

 

[pianoplayer88key]

While I'm not here to bash anyone, I'd say the tier-based list model has a few flaws. Instead, wouldn't it work better if we rated PSUs based on where they belong? For example why not have "categories" such as "low end gaming rig acceptable", "high end gaming rig acceptable", "office computer acceptable" and so on and so forth (with a "trash" category of course)? …

^That's not a bad idea at all. The only point it might miss is durability, but even that can be addressed in a notation.
You can still arrange them in "tiers" so to speak, to account for a suggestion like "If the power in your area is bad, move up a tier (or two), or make sure you use a good surge protector or UPS."

That would work, except it's not what posters I've seen here are asking for. Where would you put a 550w psu? High end is where? My rig is all good quality, but not all that powerful, a 550w G2, 3770k,msi mpower, STRIX 970. Does cost donate high end? Or performance. …
All I'm saying, as I've said before, this list is a tool. It complicated enough for advanced users and simple enough for beginners to understand.
…

Additionally, that's already been suggested in one form or another and is kind of irrelevant anyhow as there are really no units that are only for one thing or another once you get to a certain point. …

I like the idea of reducing the number of tiers, or re-categorizing them. For example, maybe something like "gaming/enthusiast/overclocking", "home/office", "屁话". Maybe also have an in-between category for "keep if your pre-built PC came with it, but upgrade if you upgrade anything else, and for sure before the PC's warranty expires." (Anything in the trash category would mean "don't even plug in your pre-built PC until you've ripped this out and installed a better PSU!")

Also I'd like to see longevity (in usage at least) taken into account. For example, if you live in Barrow, AK, only use your computer a few hours a day a couple days a week with light loads and are replacing it after a few years, you can get away with a lower-end PSU. But, if you live in a metal non-insulated shed in Yuma, AZ, with no A/C, play Crysis 3 at 4K 144fps max settings 14 hours a day 6 days a week, are folding when you're not gaming, and are keeping your i7-6950X-based system until an Atom's single threaded cinebench score creams your i7's multi-threaded score, then get a tier or two better PSU than otherwise recommended.

Also I was briefly thinking a little bit ago, something like ... "if it can't run the advertised wattage, all on the 12V rail(s), 24/7, in a 50°C environment, for the entire warranty period, and if it exceeds more than 10% of ATX specifications for things like voltage regulation and ripple, then it's Tier 5" (based on the current list methodology) … but would that be a bit harsh?

You will see that happening in Newegg reviews, which is one of the reasons why I'm against store reviews. Poor models get rated too low, and good models don't get the praise they deserve because of bad refunds. :lol:

OMG I hate user reviews from online retailers. The average consumer is so stupid and ignorant they shouldn't be allowed to give a rating. People give great products 1 star because shipping was slow or they didn't receive their rebate, and they give crap products 5 starts because "I plugged it in and it worked". …
So yeah, people are stupid, and you can't trust most user reviews.

I've seen worse. Person bought a 980 Ti, complained GTA V didn't run at the FPS he saw in 980 Ti benchmarks. He had a 30$ Pentium and 6GB of RAM.

I actually do check out the Newegg reviews when shopping. Generally on most things, I'm much less likely to consider an item if it has 3 or fewer eggs overall, has less than 70% 5-egg reviews, more than 20% 1-egg reviews, etc. I do bend that somewhat for items with few reviews, and I usually do read the actual reviews, especially the 1 and 2-egg ones, before deciding on a particular product. (There's been several occasions where I saw a product with one bad review dragging its overall score down, but reading the reviews, the person that gave it the 1-egg re-reviewed it with 5 eggs, saying he'd made some mistake when he gave it the 1-egg score. On at least a couple things - I think RAM sticks or something, it would be all 5-egg reviews if it wasn't for that 1-egg anomaly.)

I agree, though, reviews for service should be kept separate from reviews for the product.



Edit: Hmm... I guess this isn't quite like another forum I'm sometimes on. 🙁 There, when you quote someone, it makes a link to their post, but this doesn't seem to work that way. :/

 

[Darkbreeze]

As has been discussed elsewhere, this really isn't a democracy so it really doesn't matter what we think or how we think it should be arranged. This is Dottorent's discussion and tier list, and as such, he's able to arrange things the way he feels is best suited to what he's trying to present. While I'm sure he's always willing to hear suggestions, I wouldn't assume that they can or will be implemented.

 

[Karadjgne]

Amen.

 

[CTurbo]

After a $20 rebate


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $79.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-19 13:02 EST-0500

 

[Mr Kagouris]

80$ for an EVGA P2... this is worse than Steam sales ;_;

 

[pnmtbe]

Hi guys! I'm from '3rd tier' country 😀 so I put together my future gaming build one component at a time. My goal is the end of 2016/early 2017 when I will look on basic 4-threads Zen/Kabylake CPUs along with low-middle range Pascal/Polaris videocards that should hit the market by that time or perhaps will go with 1151 platform.

I've already bought a case and the next thing I want to buy is PSU. Two questions:

1. Is it OK to buy a PSU now and put it on a shelf for, say, 9-10 month (in terms of internal components' life)?

2. Are Cooler Master G450M/G550M optimal 3rd tier choices for a cost? My system will require maximum 300 W on full load. I'm looking for a under 65-70 $ (semi-)modular, quite quiet PSU with ball bearings fan. As I can see, this model stays on a market for a 2+ years already and I'm afraid that it will disappear from stores soon.

 

[stavrosmast]

About the first one:

There is no point to do that because it will have more dust inside, and you will have less warranty which is something improtant about a psu

 

[pianoplayer88key]

To me, that EVGA 650-watt P2 is about $108. I don't count mail-in rebates, and I count sales tax. Still looks like a fairly decent deal, if I was in the market for one of that caliber. (I'm still keeping my eyes open for when my dad is ready to build a new PC, but I anticipate not needing more than a few hundred watts. I don't expect him to need a discrete GPU for what he'll be doing, and I'm tentatively strongly considering building around a Skylake CPU.)

 

[Someone Somewhere]

Hi guys! I'm from '3rd tier' country 😀 so I put together my future gaming build one component at a time. My goal is the end of 2016/early 2017 when I will look on basic 4-threads Zen/Kabylake CPUs along with low-middle range Pascal/Polaris videocards that should hit the market by that time or perhaps will go with 1151 platform.

I've already bought a case and the next thing I want to buy is PSU. Two questions:

1. Is it OK to buy a PSU now and put it on a shelf for, say, 9-10 month (in terms of internal components' life)?

2. Are Cooler Master G450M/G550M optimal 3rd tier choices for a cost? My system will require maximum 300 W on full load. I'm looking for a under 65-70 $ (semi-)modular, quite quiet PSU with ball bearings fan. As I can see, this model stays on a market for a 2+ years already and I'm afraid that it will disappear from stores soon.

Why would you do this? Put the money in the bank for a year. If it turns out it was dead when you bought it, you'll have to go back the the manufacturer for the warranty rather than the retailer.

 

[Karadjgne]

You want to try and buy everything all around the same time, most retailers have a 30day return policy, so you'll want everything built, so if something is wrong, its much easier to diagnose and get replaced, than ship to the manufacturer under RMA, which usually lands you a refurbished return.

 

[logainofhades]

Thinking I am going to need a new PSU, if I upgrade to Broadwell-E. At minimum, I would need at least a 750w, but was considering an 850w. Just cannot decide if the Evga P2 850 is worth the $20 increase vs the G2. The P2 has a MIR, but my luck with those has been pretty bad, over the years.

 

[CTurbo]

I got just what you need logainofhades

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: Xion 850W ATX Power Supply ($47.25 @ Amazon)
Total: $47.25
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-19 18:57 EST-0500



(snicker snicker)

 

[logainofhades]

YES! That is perfect thanks! 😛

 

[BadActor]

I got just what you need logainofhades

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Power Supply: Xion 850W ATX Power Supply ($47.25 @ Amazon)
Total: $47.25
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-02-19 18:57 EST-0500



(snicker snicker)

The blue lights of the cooling fan match the sparks from the exploding capacitors perfectly.

 

[logainofhades]

Yea it really should have purple lights to match my other lighting. :lol:

 

[Karadjgne]

And I thought ya'll liked him. At least offer something a little better.

like this one!

 

[Darkbreeze]

Thinking I am going to need a new PSU, if I upgrade to Broadwell-E. At minimum, I would need at least a 750w, but was considering an 850w. Just cannot decide if the Evga P2 850 is worth the $20 increase vs the G2. The P2 has a MIR, but my luck with those has been pretty bad, over the years.

To MY experience, EVGA is pretty excellent about their rebates. I've never failed to get on fulfilled through EVGA. Just make sure to follow the steps they expect EXACTLY and to send it right away. I think they only honor the extension of the warranty to 10 years if you register the product within 30 days. Make sure if you have to send the original UPC code from the box with the rebate form, that you scan or make a copy of it for your own records.

 

[pnmtbe]

Thank you, guys. I'll buy it later. And what about Cooler Master G550M? Good choice? It seems that other PSUs in this price range have worse noise level, sleeve bearings and they are mostly nonmodular.

 

[Deleted member 217926]

Thank you, guys. I'll buy it later. And what about Cooler Master G550M? Good choice? It seems that other PSUs in this price range have worse noise level, sleeve bearings and they are mostly nonmodular.

http://www.hardocp.com/article/2015/06/09/cooler_master_g550m_550w_power_supply_review/9#.Vsf3UdCYE3g

 

[Karadjgne]

https://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-110b10750vr

I'd trust this over the g550

 

[pnmtbe]

https://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-110b10750vr
I'd trust this over the g550

Not available in my country. :-/
OK then... I hope there will be some good new models in 2016.

 

[Karadjgne]

Go with the CS. TR2's have a nasty habit of blowing up rather spectacularly when they die.

The TR2 line is untiered (imho) because there isn't, currently, a tier 6.