Radicly cooling idea

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Blade9030

Blade9030

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Sep 1, 2009
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if you were to put a raiator the reserve and the pump into a minifride and a secound radiator onto your computer to blow COLD AIR INTO you system would it work?

just a idea i had last night wonderin if it works
 
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exactly, we (and others) have already told you the poblems with negative temps, rads in ice boxes, or dry ice. but you still ask "could I drop my rad in dry ice" when we just told you why a rad in an ice box or fridge doesn't work.
 
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i asked if you could MAKE DRY ICCE then would it be possible

if it is possible to make it then you could make a sepetere automated system to work with it and be able to keep the Comp cold
 
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Do you know the process of making dry ice? (neither do i)

But the process for making ln2 requires some Heavy duty machinery and some very high pressures.

so i doubt u can make dry ice in your house.


Also -79c is very hard to operate 24/7. When im benching with dice the board will get soggy after about 4hrs. I cant immagine 24/7.

The best you can do 24/7 is a phase change. That will be like -40. You still need to insulate very heavily.
 
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ok thank you
what would happen if you separated the mother board from the case and cooled it?
i read a forum were a guy cooled the back of a GPU and had decent results what if you put it to the back of a MB?
 
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To overshocked, I think they make dry ice the same way, since it is like N2, and is a gas at STP, (dry ice is just solid CO2 but you probably new that)

To Blade- like overschocked said, it isn't a good long term solution, because even though the mobo is out of the case, it doesn't matter. What you are trying NOT to short out is the mobo, so no matter where you move it, you've got problems. because the negative temps are directed on the CPU which is on the mobo.

The insulation that he stated keeps (for a short time like said) keeps the condensation from condensating as much and absorbs the watter that does condensate.

I've cooled the back of my GPU (just for fun, maybe you read my post), and while it works ok, it isn't worth it unless your trying to increase your GPU overclock.

As for the back mobo cooler, thermalright has something like this for their ix-14 i belevie. it cools directly behind the CPU, which makes sense, the only other place that would make sense to cool on the back mobo, would be the mosfets or the chipset. But you would get much better temps (and decent enough temps for almost all things) if you just replaced the stock cooler. Thermalright also makes these.

Any other place on the rear of the mobo just wouldn't make sense becasue it doesn't get that hot anywhere else, that i'm aware of.
(though cooling the backside of the mobo, anywhere else besides the cpu, is kinda crazy and would be hard to do.)

OK hope that clears some stuff up, sorry if i restated anything that anybody has already said.
 
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let me see of i got this right

insulation keeps the condensation from gathering in one spot so it dose not short out?
but what if you sealed the case and had something to pull all the water out of the air?
i know of something similar for violins that are supposed to keep the humidity a certen % but i don't know if it would work for this application
 
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If you sealed the case, you could do this, but it would have to e a sealed cooling loop, also.

Like condudrum said you can seal it up, use an AC unit to cool (and dry the air). AND If you had your esaust fans either duct back to the ac unit or, it might also work if they were just powerful fans (enough so no air would get back in through them)

But the case has to be SEALED. I don't know how well those "dehumidifier" work, but again you would have to seal your case, even if you were using one. (moist air comming in might condensate before it reaches the thing). Also those dehumidifiers probably don't work constantly to take the moisture out. meaning they reach a certain saturation level and then don't work anymore, but like i said i don't really know what you are referening to.
 
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This is so fun. Blade, quit asking questions, they are so general and your way past any comprehensive idea. Your thowing stuff out into the thin air. We don't care. If you were in a Collge class and tossed such general questions out for the "Perfessor to answer" on a repeated basis you would be asked to leave and never pass the class. This ain't Middle School.

This is a PC cooling and overclocking section. Your questions belong in some odd cooling area, if you would just Google some of your keywords you would have more than enough answers and you might learn something.

We get more enjoyment from giving you a hard time than even considering your ... whatever.

Stop.
 
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Like i have stated before. THE MINIMUM TEMPERATURE YOU CAN RUN 24/7 IS ABOUT -50C!

You would need a vacuum pump working really hard to keep all the moisture out of a case. its just not practicle.

Even if you do manage to seal off the case so no air gets in you would need to spend a large amount on the cooler and the vacuum pump.

The minimum you can get if you pull a vacuum inside the case (no moisture) is with a cascade unit.

A cascade unit is basically a phase change with multiple compressors and condensors. The minimum temp that you will get with a cascade is -120c.

The price of a nice cascade (built by gomeler) would be between $1500 and $3000.

The vacuum pump that you would need to pull a vacuum in such a large area would have to be about 3.5-5CFM. So that would ring up another $300.

As you can see its just not worth it. And you still need to have the knowledge on how to run the cascadde.

Stick to short term benching.
 
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Yeah except you still have to refill it with liquid CO2, (which you have to buy, and depending on where you live, order). And take the CO2 and put it on your CPU or next to your Rad or something. Though you could probably devise a way to hook it directly up.

That is if you are talking about any time use, if you were just benchmarking, or making dry ice, this would be very useful, since the liquid CO2 lasts a long time.
 
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YEp, But for 24/7 use dry ice isn't really a good solution, even if your CPU is only at -50 (yeah only). I don't know exactly how cold dry ice is and so it might bring your CPU down more than that, but even if you were using something else (like ice) it isn't practical to keep refilling it for 24/7 use. Phase Change is good for the best 24/7 cold temps as stated before (if you have the dough).
 
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On the condensation issue, thought you guys might like this:

http://www.golden-shellback.com/

(Edit: I realise this isn't a magical solution, I'm just curious as to how it could be used, food for thought type stuff)
 
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Interesting, But it has to be fool proof an everything and even then you don't want condensation building up and leaking into your PSU, or into your Graphics Card (though you could take it apart and coat the inside to).

That is if it works, and works well for long periods of time. I still wouldn't want water just sitting in the bottom of my case, just don't trust it do always work 100% (have known lots of "water proof stuff" that fails very easily,)
 
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i have water buildup on my caps near my cpu because they are below 0c and i cant insulate them so to stop it i simply have a small 40 mm fan to blow warm case air which wicks away any moisture and keeps the caps a lil warmer, apart from that there is no water buildup in my case as i have heaters to keep the surroundings of the cpu warm
 
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