Question Red CPU MB light, No Display, No Peripherals - Please Help

[Phill3990]

Hey all, Looking for some help/advice. I recently built a new PC. It seemed to work fine to start. But I have noticed when it gets restarted or switched off it doesn't boot back up properly. Here's the exact issue.

• It starts but has no display and no USB devices.
• Fans and Case RGB are all on
• Red CPU EZ diagnose light on MB
• If I hard reset 3-5 times, it will finally boot normally and work fine.
• I have tried to replicate but it's very inconsistent sometimes it doesn't work sometimes it boots fine.

Here are my Specs for the build:

OS: Windows 10 Pro
CPU: Intel Core i5-13400F - 10 Core
MB: MSI MAG B760 Mortar WIFI DDR4
RAM: 64GB Corsair Vengence
SSD: Samsung 870 1TB SSD
GPU: Gigabyte Nvidia FGeforce RTX 3060
PSU: Asus ROG Strix 750W Gold 80+
Case stuff: Corsair Fans, NZXT H7 Elite.

Things I have Tried:

1. Removed and Reseated RAM,
2. Removed and reseated CMOS
3. Updated BIOS
4. Used HDMI instead of DP
5. Reseated GPU
6. Reseated CPU, reapplied Thermal Paste.
7. Ran Intel's CPU checker (Passed)

I just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas on some other things I can try before forking out for another CPU. I bought this one off eBay so it's possible I got a dud.

Thanks in advance for any help given

 

[beyondlogic]

Hey all, Looking for some help/advice. I recently built a new PC. It seemed to work fine to start. But I have noticed when it gets restarted or switched off it doesn't boot back up properly. Here's the exact issue.

• It starts but has no display and no USB devices.
• Fans and Case RGB are all on
• Red CPU EZ diagnose light on MB
• If I hard reset 3-5 times, it will finally boot normally and work fine.
• I have tried to replicate but it's very inconsistent sometimes it doesn't work sometimes it boots fine.

Here are my Specs for the build:

OS: Windows 10 Pro
CPU: Intel Core i5-13400F - 10 Core
MB: MSI MAG B760 Mortar WIFI DDR4
RAM: 64GB Corsair Vengence
SSD: Samsung 870 1TB SSD
GPU: Gigabyte Nvidia FGeforce RTX 3060
PSU: Asus ROG Strix 750W Gold 80+
Case stuff: Corsair Fans, NZXT H7 Elite.

Things I have Tried:

1. Removed and Reseated RAM,
2. Removed and reseated CMOS
3. Updated BIOS
4. Used HDMI instead of DP
5. Reseated GPU
6. Reseated CPU, reapplied Thermal Paste.
7. Ran Intel's CPU checker (Passed)

I just wanted to see if anyone had any ideas on some other things I can try before forking out for another CPU. I bought this one off eBay so it's possible I got a dud.

Thanks in advance for any help given

try with 1 stick of ram

in slots make sure ram is seated in slot 2 and 4

make sure all screws are holding the motherboard are installed properly as it may be causing a short.

make sure the cpu power cable is plugged in correctly

make sure your 24 pin motherboard connector is inserted properly the 20+4 pin header is a royal pain as the last 4 pins have a nasty habit of not installing properly.

test power supply with a power supply tester.

i use this one

Amazon.co.uk

every light should light up minus the -5v if any other light doesnt show up its a bad power supply.

other ideas remove all boot devices hd etc and just let it try to boot to bios to see if it can do that.

if you get into bios

click default in bios and save and try this will remove any overclocks your ram has set if you ever applied them prior as it could be a picky board for xmp.

 

[Phill3990]

try with 1 stick of ram

in slots make sure ram is seated in slot 2 and 4

make sure all screws are holding the motherboard are installed properly as it may be causing a short.

make sure the cpu power cable is plugged in correctly

make sure your 24 pin motherboard connector is inserted properly the 20+4 pin header is a royal pain as the last 4 pins have a nasty habit of not installing properly.

test power supply with a power supply tester.

i use this one

Amazon.co.uk

every light should light up minus the -5v if any other light doesnt show up its a bad power supply.

other ideas remove all boot devices hd etc and just let it try to boot to bios to see if it can do that.

if you get into bios

click default in bios and save and try this will remove any overclocks your ram has set if you ever applied them prior as it could be a picky board for xmp.

Thanks for the suggestions, I have ordered the PSU tester. I will try the other suggestions and let you know if anything changes.

It's just more annoying it doesn't do on every restart so it can take some time to replicate it to test. Usually 1 in 5 restarts/shutdowns gets the issue. Thanks again will let you know what happens

 

[beyondlogic]

Thanks for the suggestions, I have ordered the PSU tester. I will try the other suggestions and let you know if anything changes.

It's just more annoying it doesn't do on every restart so it can take some time to replicate it to test. Usually 1 in 5 restarts/shutdowns gets the issue. Thanks again will let you know what happens

no problem personally i have had nothing but trouble with msi motherboards and most posts i see are msi related lol.

i seriously doubt its a cpu issue as to me thats more rare.

if anything could be a bad motherboard just curious what is your cpu cooler ?.

 

[Phill3990]

no problem personally i have had nothing but trouble with msi motherboards and most posts i see are msi related lol.

i seriously doubt its a cpu issue as to me thats more rare.

if anything could be a bad motherboard just curious what is your cpu cooler ?.

I have a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Halo on the CPU.

hmm now that you mention it when I recieved the MB it looked like it had been opened and the black CPU plastic plate was off and loose in the box. None of pins looked damaged but I found it odd as I bought off amazon as new. Thinking I might have got sent a return item instead of New 🤔 .

MB isn't too bad to swap out and if it works fine on a new board. I should still be in the timeframe to return the MSI to Amazon. I have some time on Wednesday to try the other suggestions you made, so will report back when I have tried those.

 

[beyondlogic]

I have a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Halo on the CPU.

hmm now that you mention it when I recieved the MB it looked like it had been opened and the black CPU plastic plate was off and loose in the box. None of pins looked damaged but I found it odd as I bought off amazon as new. Thinking I might have got sent a return item instead of New 🤔 .

MB isn't too bad to swap out and if it works fine on a new board. I should still be in the timeframe to return the MSI to Amazon. I have some time on Wednesday to try the other suggestions you made, so will report back when I have tried those.

def replace the motherboard looks like you got sent a used board nothing should be floating around in the box def a return. or a refurbished board by the sound of it.

also i have no love for coolermaster hyper 212 the mounting mechanism to me is trash and the stand off sheered of part of a motherboard of mine because they cheaped out on the rubber guard on stand off that when tightened it actually took a piece of pcb with it. not saying this happened to you but its possible to do when tightening.

i recomend this cpu cooler with a board change the mounting is better also you get one additional heatpipe for disspating heat and it wont break the bank.

its slightly smaller then the coolermaster hyper 212 but offers better cooling

Amazon.co.uk

 

[Phill3990]

def replace the motherboard looks like you got sent a used board nothing should be floating around in the box def a return. or a refurbished board by the sound of it.

also i have no love for coolermaster hyper 212 the mounting mechanism to me is trash and the stand off sheered of part of a motherboard of mine because they cheaped out on the rubber guard on stand off that when tightened it actually took a piece of pcb with it. not saying this happened to you but its possible to do when tightening.

i recomend this cpu cooler with a board change the mounting is better also you get one additional heatpipe for disspating heat and it wont break the bank.

its slightly smaller then the coolermaster hyper 212 but offers better cooling

Amazon.co.uk

Yeah I was afraid of that so I guess I ignored it as I was excited to build. I'm looking at some ASUS Prime MBs to replace or maybe a ROG one if i save a bit. I kind of like the NZXT white one too. Luckily it still kind of works so it's not massively urgent for right now so I may save a bit and invest a bit more into a decent MB. Would you have any recommendations?

I checked the returns and looks like I missed it by a few weeks but I'll be opening a ticket with amazon for sure.

I was looking into a Noctua cpu fan as I have no massive love for the rgb on the cooler but that one you suggest will be sufficient as they do a white one (my build is mostly white).

Thanks again for all of your help, after spending so much on my build its been stressful to see it have an issue.

 

[beyondlogic]

Yeah I was afraid of that so I guess I ignored it as I was excited to build. I'm looking at some ASUS Prime MBs to replace or maybe a ROG one if i save a bit. I kind of like the NZXT white one too. Luckily it still kind of works so it's not massively urgent for right now so I may save a bit and invest a bit more into a decent MB. Would you have any recommendations?

I checked the returns and looks like I missed it by a few weeks but I'll be opening a ticket with amazon for sure.

I was looking into a Noctua cpu fan as I have no massive love for the rgb on the cooler but that one you suggest will be sufficient as they do a white one (my build is mostly white).

Thanks again for all of help after spending so much on my build its been stressful to see it have an issue.

the fans are quite quiet and if you have no love for the rgb just dont plug in the fan cable. labeled rgb as the fan header and rgb are seperate. on this cooler.

if your not planning any overclocking i would recomend the b series

https://www.newegg.com/global/uk-en/p/N82E16813162108

the pros of this motherboard is you can get a wifi card for it unlike your previous board if the wifi card goes bad on the msi you cant replace it on this one however you can just remove it and get a new one.

im all for practibility and keeping it safe ive owned 2 asrock boards none gave me issues on posting or start up.

im not a huge fan of asus

in keeping with your white theme

also recomended for better mounting pressure

LGA1700-BCF BLACK – Thermalright

www.thermalright.com

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYU1OskbY-Q

 

[Phill3990]

the fans are quite quiet and if you have no love for the rgb just dont plug in the fan cable. labeled rgb as the fan header and rgb are seperate. on this cooler.

if your not planning any overclocking i would recomend the b series

https://www.newegg.com/global/uk-en/p/N82E16813162108

the pros of this motherboard is you can get a wifi card for it unlike your previous board if the wifi card goes bad on the msi you cant replace it on this one however you can just remove it and get a new one.

im all for practibility and keeping it safe ive owned 2 asrock boards none gave me issues on posting or start up.

im not a huge fan of asus

in keeping with your white theme

also recomended for better mounting pressure

LGA1700-BCF BLACK – Thermalright

www.thermalright.com

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iYU1OskbY-Q

Ok so a quick update as a few more symptoms have emerged. I have not yet got around to testing the PSU using the Tester or replacing the Motherboard, this will likely be an end-of-the-month payday thing.

I have however noticed a few more symptoms of this issue.

When the PC has been in sleep for a long period (overnight and most of the day) pressing the power button makes it turn on for 1/2sec then it instantly turns off and restarts like its lost power this then results in the red CPU light on the motherboard.

Unsure if this changes any recommendations or if it's just going to still be a new MB at this point?

 

[beyondlogic]

Ok so a quick update as a few more symptoms have emerged. I have not yet got around to testing the PSU using the Tester or replacing the Motherboard, this will likely be an end-of-the-month payday thing.

I have however noticed a few more symptoms of this issue.

When the PC has been in sleep for a long period (overnight and most of the day) pressing the power button makes it turn on for 1/2sec then it instantly turns off and restarts like its lost power this then results in the red CPU light on the motherboard.

Unsure if this changes any recommendations or if it's just going to still be a new MB at this point?

that would be a short on the psu or motherboard you can try this kit

Amazon.co.uk

if you can check around the motherboard for any screws that hold the motherboard in place if any are half out or not seated properly it can cause a short sometimes. i use the red nylon paper washers for every build if done in pcs and this has stopped this issue from cropping up as i found some motherboards had really crap mounting holes that were either badly shielded or i just got unlucky.

other thing you can do is remove the motherboard and make sure there isnt a rogue standoff under the motherboard thats touching it.


you can also try to take it out the case and do what this guy does. on top of a cardboard box or wood table ( no metal /no carpet)

View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/YfD4iCYd0GU

and this

View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/XbHKtkB4Udk


you also want to check for standoffs that arent screwed down properly ( you may need a pair of plyers to fix those ( i had this happen on a
metalic gear neo).

 

[Phill3990]

that would be a short on the psu or motherboard you can try this kit

Amazon.co.uk

if you can check around the motherboard for any screws that hold the motherboard in place if any are half out or not seated properly it can cause a short sometimes. i use the red nylon paper washers for every build if done in pcs and this has stopped this issue from cropping up as i found some motherboards had really crap mounting holes that were either badly shielded or i just got unlucky.

other thing you can do is remove the motherboard and make sure there isnt a rogue standoff under the motherboard thats touching it.


you can also try to take it out the case and do what this guy does. on top of a cardboard box or wood table ( no metal /no carpet)

View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/YfD4iCYd0GU

and this

View: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/XbHKtkB4Udk


you also want to check for standoffs that arent screwed down properly ( you may need a pair of plyers to fix those ( i had this happen on a
metalic gear neo).

Quick Update

I managed to get some time yesterday to disassemble the PC and try some of your suggestions.

I found a random stand-off (that I did screw into the MB) in the incorrect slot for this board. This was in the zone for an ITX board yet this is MicroATX. The socket for this was below the "stay away" icon on the back of the board. This standoff was also loose in the case. I have since removed this stand-off.

The PSU tester came back fine. All green except -5V

No visible damage to the board or the contacts/solder. No burn or scorch marks.

Reseated RAM once more, reseated GPU

I managed to get all of the power cables plugged in before securing the MB so they are 100% seated in their sockets.

Here's the good news, I have restarted 7-8 times, shut down several times also and the issue has not appeared. Obviously, it was inconsistent anyway and didn't show on every reboot but I am hoping that it's gone and it was that stand-off screw. I will continue to monitor and if the issue reoccurs it's likely to be a new MB but hopefully it won't come to that.

 

[beyondlogic]

Quick Update

I managed to get some time yesterday to disassemble the PC and try some of your suggestions.

I found a random stand-off (that I did screw into the MB) in the incorrect slot for this board. This was in the zone for an ITX board yet this is MicroATX. The socket for this was below the "stay away" icon on the back of the board. This standoff was also loose in the case. I have since removed this stand-off.

The PSU tester came back fine. All green except -5V

No visible damage to the board or the contacts/solder. No burn or scorch marks.

Reseated RAM once more, reseated GPU

I managed to get all of the power cables plugged in before securing the MB so they are 100% seated in their sockets.

Here's the good news, I have restarted 7-8 times, shut down several times also and the issue has not appeared. Obviously, it was inconsistent anyway and didn't show on every reboot but I am hoping that it's gone and it was that stand-off screw. I will continue to monitor and if the issue reoccurs it's likely to be a new MB but hopefully it won't come to that.

sounds like the standoff was the issue to me glad it seems sorted on plus side you have a psu tester incase you ever need to check it in future. i doubt any lasting damage has occured if issue crops up just drop a pm.

 

[Phill3990]

sounds like the standoff was the issue to me glad it seems sorted on plus side you have a psu tester incase you ever need to check it in future. i doubt any lasting damage has occured if issue crops up just drop a pm.

Sadly the issue is still present and seems to be more stubborn to get out of this error than before.

Going to try one last ditch effort to reflash the bios then it's going to be an MB swap I think.

 

[beyondlogic]

Sadly the issue is still present and seems to be more stubborn to get out of this error than before.

Going to try one last ditch effort to reflash the bios then it's going to be an MB swap I think.

thats annoying i recomend asus or asrock or gigabyte i have more success with those boards.

 

[Phill3990]

thats annoying i recomend asus or asrock or gigabyte i have more success with those boards.

I ordered an ASUS TUF Gaming B760-PLUS WiFi D4 off Amazon, It's coming on Saturday. Its an ATX and black but it looks like a decent board and the color doesn't bother me as my other parts cover most of the white/metal parts on this one anyway

I also ordered some CMOS batteries, my final stand. if the cmos replace doesn't work I'll swap in the new board.

If that works fine then ill either return/warranty replace the broken one and sell the replacement to recoup some money or If the new board does the same then it'll be more diagnostics and i'll be sad.

 

[beyondlogic]

I ordered an ASUS TUF Gaming B760-PLUS WiFi D4 off Amazon, It's coming on Saturday. Its an ATX and black but it looks like a decent board and the color doesn't bother me as my other parts cover most of the white/metal parts on this one anyway

I also ordered some CMOS batteries, my final stand. if the cmos replace doesn't work I'll swap in the new board.

If that works fine then ill either return/warranty replace the broken one and sell the replacement to recoup some money or If the new board does the same then it'll be more diagnostics and i'll be sad.

i doubt the new board will be the same my experiance with msi motherboards are just trash they used to be a good brand but there plagued with alot of issues from faulty ram slots to being doa. etc the list goes on if you look on toms i can say ive at least ran into at least 12 threads all plagued with issues that involve a msi motherboard. ive had 3 dead myself.

 

[Phill3990]

i doubt the new board will be the same my experiance with msi motherboards are just trash they used to be a good brand but there plagued with alot of issues from faulty ram slots to being doa. etc the list goes on if you look on toms i can say ive at least ran into at least 12 threads all plagued with issues that involve a msi motherboard. ive had 3 dead myself.

Just wanted to update you,

I have installed the new board and the issue is still present. It booted fine a few times. Then it crashed so I restarted it and the issue cropped up again.

This time however the light is orange on DRAM and occasionally the red CPU light joins in.

Edit: After a few hours of troubleshooting I have found out the below.

I have had a fun morning swapping RAM about and resetting CMOS etc.

For some reason, I am unable to use 4 sticks of 16GB RAM. If I add all 4 I get the orange/red diagnostic lights and the same error will occur as the previous board.

Currently, it seems to work with 2 sticks in A2 and B2, the below is also some findings:

• A single Ram stick in A1 or B1 also works.
• 2 x Ram in A2 and B2 works
• 2 x Ram in A1 + A2 works but also gives the error LEDS most of the time.
• 4 x RAM gives an LED error.
• Tried CMOS reset
• Flashed BIOS to the latest version
• Tried with and without XMP
• Done all the usual tests such as reseating etc.

I read that this kind of issue can be caused by a faulty memory control module in the CPU (Remember I bought this CPU 2nd hand off eBay) or faulty RAM, I have however tested each stick in Slot A2 and it booted fine.

I guess I can survive on 32GB of RAM but seems strange that it wont work with all 4 but will take 2

Edit2: The PC is now running for about 20-30mins and then getting a BSOD, it restarts and presents the orange/red light

BSOD stop code: kmode_exception_not_handled
What failed: nvlddmkm

After this, I couldn't get it to boot until I removed the 2nd stick of ram and left just one in B2 slot. Then it booted fine.

Edit 3: After more research looks like the RAM I have is not on the compatibility list for the new motherboard and also the old one. Is that possibly what's been causing the issues with both boards?

 

[Phill3990]

The plot thickens

I ordered 2 sticks of 16gb, brand new from a supplier. Installed the ram in A2 and B2 as told in the manual.

This results in the orange/red board lights. The same issue as the old msi board

Remove 1 of these sticks so it only has 1 and the pc is fine. Works perfectly for everything. As soon as I add a 2nd ram stick we get the same issue again.

From a quick Google, if ram is fine and known working this problem is either and issue with the ram sockets on the board which is unlikely as the issue is present on 2 new boards or a dual channel issue on the cpu which was bought from ebay . Thinking I got scammed and sold a faulty cpu and they hoped that I wouldn't find out quick enough 🤔

 

[beyondlogic]

The plot thickens

I ordered 2 sticks of 16gb, brand new from a supplier. Installed the ram in A2 and B2 as told in the manual.

This results in the orange/red board lights. The same issue as the old msi board

Remove 1 of these sticks so it only has 1 and the pc is fine. Works perfectly for everything. As soon as I add a 2nd ram stick we get the same issue again.

From a quick Google, if ram is fine and known working this problem is either and issue with the ram sockets on the board which is unlikely as the issue is present on 2 new boards or a dual channel issue on the cpu which was bought from ebay . Thinking I got scammed and sold a faulty cpu and they hoped that I wouldn't find out quick enough 🤔

what ram are you using atm

and are you using kits ? make sure the kits are not mixed up certain kits wont play nice.

 

[Phill3990]

what ram are you using atm

and are you using kits ? make sure the kits are not mixed up certain kits wont play nice.

The first lot was a 4x16gb corsair Vengence kit

Corsair VENGEANCE RGB PRO SL 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4 3600 (PC4-28800) C18 1.35V - White, CMH64GX4M4D3600C18W https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B095HN61QW/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_aEXFT1KKVUasK

The set I tried today is a different type from corsair

2 x 16gb corsair vengence lpx which is on the compatibility list for the motherboards whereas the other 4 were not.

Corsair VENGEANCE LPX DDR4 RAM... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07RW6Z692?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

[beyondlogic]

The first lot was a 4x16gb corsair Vengence kit

Corsair VENGEANCE RGB PRO SL 64GB (4x16GB) DDR4 3600 (PC4-28800) C18 1.35V - White, CMH64GX4M4D3600C18W https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B095HN61QW/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_aEXFT1KKVUasK

The set I tried today is a different type from corsair

2 x 16gb corsair vengence lpx which is on the compatibility list for the motherboards whereas the other 4 were not.

Corsair VENGEANCE LPX DDR4 RAM... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07RW6Z692?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

one thing if its the cpu it could be the cpu isnt making good contact with socket well enough. or the substrate of cpu is a bit uneven.

probly last ditch attempt i would make before calling it a cpu problem would be to try getting one of these.

Amazon.co.uk

it holds the cpu better in the socket intels holding mechanism on there 1700 boards are a bit <Mod Edit>.
would also straighten out cpu if it isnt making contact with pins correctly

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkzqrIeDzF4

 

[Phill3990]

one thing if its the cpu it could be the cpu isnt making good contact with socket well enough. or the substrate of cpu is a bit uneven.

probly last ditch attempt i would make before calling it a cpu problem would be to try getting one of these.

Amazon.co.uk

it holds the cpu better in the socket intels holding mechanism on there 1700 boards are a bit <Mod Edit>.
would also straighten out cpu if it isnt making contact with pins correctly

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkzqrIeDzF4

I have ordered one of those brackets just in case. Not going to lie I actually kind of prefer the look of that bracket over the arm/lever style. Will likely use those from now on.

I have tried to replicate this fault with just one stick of RAM but it works perfectly. I have a feeling it's going to be the CPU.

Luckily, selling the other motherboard and the spare RAM I now have I should have enough to buy a replacement CPU. Although I was thinking about buying the cheapest 1700 socket off Amazon to test with and then upgrading it if everything works fine from that. It seems an Intel 12400F 6 core is only £125 on Amazon atm and is only a slight downgrade from the 13400F 10 core that I have currently.

I will hopefully be trying the bracket Friday morning so I will update then wether or not it's going to be a CPU replace.

Appreciate your advice on this, it's nice to have someone knowledgeable to bounce ideas off

 

[beyondlogic]

I have ordered one of those brackets just in case. Not going to lie I actually kind of prefer the look of that bracket over the arm/lever style. Will likely use those from now on.

I have tried to replicate this fault with just one stick of RAM but it works perfectly. I have a feeling it's going to be the CPU.

Luckily, selling the other motherboard and the spare RAM I now have I should have enough to buy a replacement CPU. Although I was thinking about buying the cheapest 1700 socket off Amazon to test with and then upgrading it if everything works fine from that. It seems an Intel 12400F 6 core is only £125 on Amazon atm and is only a slight downgrade from the 13400F 10 core that I have currently.

I will hopefully be trying the bracket Friday morning so I will update then wether or not it's going to be a CPU replace.

Appreciate your advice on this, it's nice to have someone knowledgeable to bounce ideas off

the bracket should straighten out the cpu if its been bent by the previous user im suspecting some of the pads on the cpu may not be contacting cpu socket properly. so hopefully it fixes it.

 

[Phill3990]

the bracket should straighten out the cpu if its been bent by the previous user im suspecting some of the pads on the cpu may not be contacting cpu socket properly. so hopefully it fixes it.

Update:

I installed the bracket this morning for the CPU (why are these brackets not default on all boards they are so much better!?)

I have placed 2 sticks of 16GB RAM (The non-rgb ones) in A2 B2 as per the MB instructions.

Typically 2 sticks in these slots caused the error to happen.

I installed the bracket and purposely left the CPU cooler a few screwdriver turns looser than full.

Booted up, the BIOS told me a new CPU had been installed, I didn't remove the CPU from the socket to install the bracket. Perhaps this now picking it up properly due to a better connection?? It's also possible the CPU cooler was too tight and it had bowed the board I guess.

Anyway, it seems to have booted fine, with no RAM issue. I still need to test it with some restart/shutdown spam. Fingers crossed though it seems to working.

I will keep my eye on it for a few days and then if it doesn't show itself again I will solve the thread.

Thanks again for all of your help, it's much appreciated!

 

[beyondlogic]

Update:

I installed the bracket this morning for the CPU (why are these brackets not default on all boards they are so much better!?)

I have placed 2 sticks of 16GB RAM (The non-rgb ones) in A2 B2 as per the MB instructions.

Typically 2 sticks in these slots caused the error to happen.

I installed the bracket and purposely left the CPU cooler a few screwdriver turns looser than full.

Booted up, the BIOS told me a new CPU had been installed, I didn't remove the CPU from the socket to install the bracket. Perhaps this now picking it up properly due to a better connection?? It's also possible the CPU cooler was too tight and it had bowed the board I guess.

Anyway, it seems to have booted fine, with no RAM issue. I still need to test it with some restart/shutdown spam. Fingers crossed though it seems to working.

I will keep my eye on it for a few days and then if it doesn't show itself again I will solve the thread.

Thanks again for all of your help, it's much appreciated!

sounds like the processors substrate was a little bowed probly from last user the lga 1700 chips have this issue for whatever reason. the bracket probly straightened it out and has made better contact with the pins.

( reason there not default is intel is lazy to come up for a solution for there own screw ups.)

no problem glad to be of help.