Rendering Workstation Build ( 3DS MAX )

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Gaganailawadi

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Sep 10, 2011
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Hello Everyone
I am into 3D Rendering and Image/Video editing (3ds Max, After Effects, Photoshop, vray, corona) After a Long Research i want to build a Workstation for me. I am pretty noob in hardware stuff so i would be very thankful if anyone willing to help.

Cpu - thinking to go with 1950x or 2950x ( as more core will help me in rendering )

Mobo - x399 which one? the 2nd gen is too costly i guess

ram - my main concern i need atleast 3200mhz 64g. will be buying 32gb for now then will upgrade 32gb more in few months.

PSU - ?

Gpu - RTX 2070 or 1080ti ? what will be the best option ?

boot drive - i want the value for money nvme as its the fastest ( samsung 970 evo 256 gb )

Hdd- barcuda 2tb x2

cooler - have no idea about it, will overclock a bit not extreme.

cabinet - ? 50$ budget

do i have to buy any other extra fan for better temperatures? as my system have to work day and night sometimes for rendering. please suggest me the best.

Total budget 3000$ ( Rs 230000) can go little up if its really worth it.
 
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While it's true that it's better to buy your RAM as a set to minimize the risk of them not working together, individual sticks or sets (e.g 2x + 2x) still can work together when they are put in the same system.

Good example is my main build (Skylake), at 1st, i bought a set of 2x 4GB Kingston HyperX Savage 3000 Mhz RAM since at that time, i didn't have money to go with 16GB off the bat. A year later, i bought the same set of 2x 4GB Kingston HyperX Savage 3000 Mhz RAM to get 16GB in total. Of course, i was well aware that there was a risk (50:50 chance) that both of my sets won't work together in my system. While i don't like to take a risk when it comes to the RAM or PC hardware in general but when i didn't have the money to go with 16GB right away, there was little what i was able to do. Luckily, both of my RAM sets worked together without issues and i enjoy looking my MoBo with all RAM slots filled.

For 64GB RAM set, look it from amazon.
E.g Corsair LPX Vengeance, 4x 16GB, 2400 Mhz,
amazon.in: https://www.amazon.in/Corsair-Vengeance-64GB-Systems-Black/dp/B01ET6Y09C

or Kingston HyperX Predator, 4x 16GB, 2666 Mhz,
amazon.in: https://www.amazon.in/HyperX-Predator-2666MHz-HX426C13PB3K4-64/dp/B071JM59B2

or Corsair LPX Vengeance, 4x 16GB, 3000 Mhz,
amazon.in: https://www.amazon.in/Corsair-Vengeance-4x16GB-PC4-24000-Desktop/dp/B07B4GNMS7
 
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I'd avoid AliExpress and buy my stuff from far more trusted source, e.g Amazon.
Reason why: https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/safe-shop-aliexpress/

Within that nice article, there's also written:
The Real Danger of AliExpress: Fraudsters

6. Be Careful With Storage and Memory Components

It’s a common scam even if you’re buying from a Shenzhen market stall, but even easier to pull off online. You buy a memory stick that reports itself to be 64Gb when put into Windows Explorer, but it’s actually a lot less. The firmware has been hacked, but you won’t know until you actually try to use the whole drive. The scammer is long gone with your money.
Click to expand...
The very same RAM kit linked by Lucky_SLS costs 41.899 rupees on amazon.in,
link: https://www.amazon.in/dp/B01MSBS0UT

And when convert it to USD, it's $582.58. AliExpress offers it $142.59 cheaper, at $439.99. I, personally, would not risk it.

Amazon.com offers the very same RAM kit at: $328.98 + $149.16 Shipping & Import Fees Deposit to India (total of $478.14),
link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSBS0UT
 
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@aeacus i kinda feel hurt that u would consider me not considering these things before recommending it to a person in a public forum.

if u search in aliexpress, 3 buying options come for the G.Skill rams. now the seller profile in aliexpress : https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1739322?spm=2114.search0104.3.23.7ccf3165Sd4RDD and https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1668175?spm=2114.search0104.3.17.7ccf3165Sd4RDD and https://www.aliexpress.com/store/3895029?spm=2114.search0104.3.11.7ccf3165Sd4RDD

u can see the general reviews of those stores. 2 of them are there foor 3 years. and moreover, the US price is 310 dollars compared to aliexpress' 440 https://pcpartpicker.com/product/KJ2rxr/gskill-tridentz-rgb-32gb-4-x-8gb-ddr4-3200-memory-f4-3200c16q-32gtzr

but yeah, if u wanna feel safe, go for amazon.
 
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yes, there are these options but i was thinking for 3200mhz as tr4 work best with higher mhz
 
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i had really bad experience with aliexpress few years back, they show something else and give something else, but yes thats for cloths. also it takes so long to reach here i guess 1 month.

i want to buy 64gb 3200 mhz 8gbx8 or 16x4
 
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also final words on cooler? Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3 or cooler master wraith ripper, there is 30$ difference between the two, cooler master wraith ripper being cheaper. want best between the two no issue for 30$. also the ram can fit easily as i read some ram is having big size.
 
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Well, i didn't see a warning from you about AliExpress when you suggested that store. Also, you can't expect that everyone knows the shady business of AliExpress. So, to keep OP aware, i wrote my reply about AliExpress.

Some people in the forums suggest buying only a Win 10 activation key, rather than full OS since it's far cheaper. People who preach this think it's completely normal but in reality, that too is shady business.


Amazon.in has plenty of choices of 4x 16GB 3200 Mhz RAM sets, e.g
Kingston HyperX Predator, link: https://www.amazon.in/HyperX-Predator-3200MHz-HX432C16PB3K4-64/dp/B07GNKGZMH
Corsair Vengeance RGB, link: https://www.amazon.in/Corsair-CMR64GX4M4C3200C16-Vengeance-PC4-25600-Desktop/dp/B071JQJG13

CPU cooler performance wise, as Lucky_SLS already stated, Cooler Master CPU cooler is better than Noctua CPU cooler due to the heatsink size.
 
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When looking for an UPS, there are 2 things to look out:
1. Output waveform (square wave, simulated sine wave and true/pure sine wave)
2. Design (stand-by, line-interactive and online)

From here you can read about the differences between output waveform,
link: http://www.minutemanups.com/support/pwr_un10.php

And here are explanations about the UPS design,
stand-by: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/ext/ups/typesStandby-c.html
line-interactive: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/ext/ups/typesLineInt-c.html
online: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/power/ext/ups/typesOnLine-c.html

Waveform and design
For PCs, line-interactive UPS would be more than enough since PSUs can easily handle the 2ms to 5ms transfer time of line-interactive UPS.
As far as output waveform goes, true/pure sine wave UPS is best used. While simulated sine wave UPSes are cheaper than true/pure sine wave UPSes, PSUs with Active PFC aren't compatible with simulated sine wave. You might get simulated sine wave UPS running with Active PFC PSU but there can be some major issues. Here's what, how and why.

How do you know which PSUs have Active PFC and which ones don't?
Simple, every PSU that has 80+ certification (e.g 80+ Bronze or 80+ Gold) has Active PFC.

What is Active PFC?
Further reading: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_factor#Power_factor_correction_(PFC)_in_non-linear_loads

What can happen when using simulated sine wave UPS with Active PFC PSU?
When simulated sine wave UPS switches over to the battery power, one of 3 things can happen:
1. UPS displays error resulting PC to shut down immediately.
2. UPS shuts down resulting PC to shut down immediately.
3. UPS switches to battery power resulting PC to power off from UPS (PC stays on).

Why it happens?
Simulated sine wave UPS produces a zero output state during the phase change cycle resulting in a power “gap”. This gap may cause power interruption for active PFC PSUs when switching from AC power output to simulated sine wave output (battery mode).

What to do next?
As stated above, your PC can run off from simulated sine wave UPS but be prepared when you face issues with it. When issues do rise, your best bet would be returning the simulated sine wave UPS and getting true/pure sine wave UPS. Or you can go with true/pure sine wave UPS off the bat.

Wattage
As far as UPS wattage goes, you need to consider the power draw of your PC and monitors. Maybe speakers and wi-fi router too if you plan to plug those into the UPS as well. Though, printers, scanners and other such hardware (full list on your UPS manual) don't plug to the UPS since their startup power draw is way too much for UPS to handle and you can fry your UPS.

Taking PSU's max wattage as a baseline is good idea since it will give your UPS more headroom and you can get longer runtime out of your UPS. Since your PSU is 850W, at least one monitor is added on top of it. Depending on the monitor size, they use between 23W to 52W. Wi-fi routers don't consume much power. For example, my Cisco EPC3940L consumes 12V at 3A which means 36W.

Good UPS brands to go for are CyberPower, TrippLite and APC. While there are other UPS brands as well, those three are the best out there.
Note: The more powerful UPS you have, the longer UPS can keep your PC running before it's battery is empty.
 
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This thread is no more simply a question thread, it's turned into a question and discussion thread.

One does not simply closes a discussion thread...
boromir1.jpg

 
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hahaha, sorry i know i am asking too much, but aeacus & lucky helped me a lot and. it will end soon as i am buying this system in just 3 days.
 
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thanks for the detailed reply, one guy is selling this USED ups, should i buy it?

https://www.apc.com/shop/in/en/products/APC-Smart-UPS-XL-1000VA-USB-Serial-230V-No-Battery/P-SUA1000UXI


i will attach this monitor

https://www.dell.com/en-us/work/shop/dell-ultrasharp-27-infinityedge-monitor-u2717d/apd/210-ahgv/monitors-monitor-accessories
 
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Your monitor consumes 74W but to be safe, i'd consider it at 100W. That would bring the total to (850W PSU + 100W monitor) 950W. In reality, your PC and monitor combined would consume about 600W max. Getting an UPS that can sustain 950W would give you more runtime on UPS.

AS far as the APC 1000VA/800W UPS goes, it is line-interactive and it does output true/pure sine wave. But since someone is selling it as used, there are issues with it. You can buy it if you like but if you do, also buy a brand new battery for it. Though, getting a new battery for it can be hard since that model is discontinued (it's probably the reason why this guy sells it in the first place, because there are no new batteries for it),
link: https://www.apc.com/shop/in/en/tools/replacement-battery-selector?Nr=OR%28sku.partNum%3ARBC7%29&parentCategory=Smart-UPS&partNumber=SU1000XLI&rbcQty=1&showAll=false

Also, battery isn't internal (like my CyberPower UPSes are) but instead, it's external. Meaning that battery sits openly next to the UPS itself. Due to the external battery design, APC doesn't list the runtime of that UPS.
 
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