[SOLVED] Ryzen 2600 and XFX 5700 XT system issues

Sep 15, 2020
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I am having some trouble with my computer. I'll explain some of the issues.
Issues: System will run fine and be stable then randomly freeze up and drop to nearly 0 fps. Looking at the graphs in task manager it seems the GPU is dropping down to nearly 0% usage and the CPU is jumping to nearly %100. All other stats seem to be stable when this happens (memory and all 3 disks).

I used to run this set up:
CPU: Ryzen 5 2600x (Stock Cooler)
RAM: 32GB Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 2666 MHz DDR4 DRAM CL16 (I know that's slow for Ryzen I plan an upgrade soon)
MoBo: MSI B350M Pro VDH motherboard (Budget system I've been slowly upgrading so a cheapo board)
GPU: MSI GTX 1060 6GB (single fan don't know the model)
Storage: 2x 1TB HDD (I can provide more details if necessary but they are both 7200 RPM I just salvaged from other builds)
Storage: 1x 256 GB SSD (This is my boot drive)
Power Supply: EVGA 600W 80+ Certified Non-Modular Power Supply with P/N of 100-w1-0600-k1
Case: Thermaltake S100 Snow Edition (2 Intake and 1 Outtake Fan)


Some Explanation: I was running pretty demanding games and thought maybe the graphics card was overheating and decided to perform an upgrade with my graduation money.

I now run this set up:
CPU: Ryzen 5 2600x (Stock Cooler)
RAM: 32GB Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 2666 MHz DDR4 DRAM CL16 (I know that's slow for Ryzen I plan an upgrade soon)
MoBo: MSI B350M Pro VDH motherboard (Budget system I've been slowly upgrading so a cheapo board)
GPU: XFX Radeon RX 5700XT RAV II (maybe III box is pretty confusing)
Storage: 2x 1TB HDD (I can provide more details if necessary but they are both 7200 RPM I just salvaged from other builds)
Storage: 1x 256 GB SSD (This is my boot drive)
Power Supply: EVGA 600W 80+ Certified Non-Modular Power Supply with P/N of 100-w1-0600-k1
Case: Thermaltake S100 Snow Edition (2 Intake and 1 Outtake Fan)


Issues Continued: The same issues as before seem to persist with the same situation in my task manager. It also has started making weird beeping noises randomly that sound almost like morse code? I'm not sure where this came from. Here are some things I have tried

Trouble Shooting Tried: I have tried running stress tests on CPU and GPU separately as well as together watching thermals and power consumption on CPU hardware monitors and the problems persisted in all tests (can provide exact names of programs if needed). I have reset the entire system (went in and reformatted and cleared every drive then went in removed even windows and reinstalled windows). I have triple checked drives solo installing them and having windows find drivers. I've tried monitoring things while in-game to find answers and still no answers.

Information that may be useful?: I have a keyboard and mouse hooked up (obviously, also can provide models and stuff). A large mousepad that lights up (wow cool). A blue snowball microphone (really new). A PS4 controller than I run DS4 Windows to use on all my games. A printer (Hp Deskjet 2542). A Corsair Wireless Headset (can get the exact model if needed it does have a wireless USB dongle) and a USB BlueTooth dongle to connect my wireless Bluetooth soundbar and stuff. I also hook up 2 monitors and a TV (2 Sceptre 1080P 60 HZ monitors exact models can be provided if necessary, as well as information on how I have them connected and a cheap 1080P TV thats, hooked up with a long cable that I mainly use for watching movies and stuff).

Please help if you can and ask for any extra information that's needed!
 
Solution
Okay any suggestions for wattage? And should I be looking at like 80+ gold or higher? Also a concern is that the problem was happening with the old 1060 or was the PSU no reliable enough for that either?
That PSU should only be used in an office system at best. With wattage you will want at least a 550W PSU you can go with a 650W to have some extra room. Here are a few ideas.

550W 80+ Gold:
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/3H...d-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-focus-gx-550
...
I am having some trouble with my computer. I'll explain some of the issues.
Issues: System will run fine and be stable then randomly freeze up and drop to nearly 0 fps. Looking at the graphs in task manager it seems the GPU is dropping down to nearly 0% usage and the CPU is jumping to nearly %100. All other stats seem to be stable when this happens (memory and all 3 disks).

I used to run this set up:
CPU: Ryzen 5 2600x (Stock Cooler)
RAM: 32GB Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 2666 MHz DDR4 DRAM CL16 (I know that's slow for Ryzen I plan an upgrade soon)
MoBo: MSI B350M Pro VDH motherboard (Budget system I've been slowly upgrading so a cheapo board)
GPU: MSI GTX 1060 6GB (single fan don't know the model)
Storage: 2x 1TB HDD (I can provide more details if necessary but they are both 7200 RPM I just salvaged from other builds)
Storage: 1x 256 GB SSD (This is my boot drive)
Power Supply: EVGA 600W 80+ Certified Non-Modular Power Supply with P/N of 100-w1-0600-k1
Case: Thermaltake S100 Snow Edition (2 Intake and 1 Outtake Fan)


Some Explanation: I was running pretty demanding games and thought maybe the graphics card was overheating and decided to perform an upgrade with my graduation money.

I now run this set up:
CPU: Ryzen 5 2600x (Stock Cooler)
RAM: 32GB Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 2666 MHz DDR4 DRAM CL16 (I know that's slow for Ryzen I plan an upgrade soon)
MoBo: MSI B350M Pro VDH motherboard (Budget system I've been slowly upgrading so a cheapo board)
GPU: XFX Radeon RX 5700XT RAV II (maybe III box is pretty confusing)
Storage: 2x 1TB HDD (I can provide more details if necessary but they are both 7200 RPM I just salvaged from other builds)
Storage: 1x 256 GB SSD (This is my boot drive)
Power Supply: EVGA 600W 80+ Certified Non-Modular Power Supply with P/N of 100-w1-0600-k1
Case: Thermaltake S100 Snow Edition (2 Intake and 1 Outtake Fan)


Issues Continued: The same issues as before seem to persist with the same situation in my task manager. It also has started making weird beeping noises randomly that sound almost like morse code? I'm not sure where this came from. Here are some things I have tried

Trouble Shooting Tried: I have tried running stress tests on CPU and GPU separately as well as together watching thermals and power consumption on CPU hardware monitors and the problems persisted in all tests (can provide exact names of programs if needed). I have reset the entire system (went in and reformatted and cleared every drive then went in removed even windows and reinstalled windows). I have triple checked drives solo installing them and having windows find drivers. I've tried monitoring things while in-game to find answers and still no answers.

Information that may be useful?: I have a keyboard and mouse hooked up (obviously, also can provide models and stuff). A large mousepad that lights up (wow cool). A blue snowball microphone (really new). A PS4 controller than I run DS4 Windows to use on all my games. A printer (Hp Deskjet 2542). A Corsair Wireless Headset (can get the exact model if needed it does have a wireless USB dongle) and a USB BlueTooth dongle to connect my wireless Bluetooth soundbar and stuff. I also hook up 2 monitors and a TV (2 Sceptre 1080P 60 HZ monitors exact models can be provided if necessary, as well as information on how I have them connected and a cheap 1080P TV thats, hooked up with a long cable that I mainly use for watching movies and stuff).

Please help if you can and ask for any extra information that's needed!
What are the exact weird beeping noises that you are hearing? Are they a consistently the same? I agree with @madmatt30 about the PSU. It is basically garbage and shouldn't be trusted to run a gaming.
 
That psu isn't very good quality at all, and a 5700xt needs a good quality psu.

Its pretty much the only component in your system that sets alarm bells ringing.
Okay any suggestions for wattage? And should I be looking at like 80+ gold or higher? Also a concern is that the problem was happening with the old 1060 or was the PSU no reliable enough for that either?
 
What are the exact weird beeping noises that you are hearing? Are they a consistently the same? I agree with @madmatt30 about the PSU. It is basically garbage and shouldn't be trusted to run a gaming.
The noises almost sound like morse code they are high pitched and pretty consistent with occasional gaps in the sounds. They are pretty consistently the same sounds
 
Using RyzenMaster do you see what temps you are getting? Do you have an alarm set in the BIOS for when the CPU temp gets beyond a certain level?
Thanks for the PSU suggestions I will definitely look into buying on of those. I plan to upgrade MoBo and Ram soon after that hopefully. As for your question I havent purposefully set an alarm but I have found some weird Bios settings on this MoBo. I have watched it in ryzen master before I will run a benchmark and can even record CPUID HWMonitor data to provide to you if you'd like or just provide highest temp off of ryzen master as my system currently stands
 
Just the highest temp should be good. I have a feeling that there is a default alarm set to warn when the CPU is getting too hot. With the 300 series motherboards there was a 20 degree (I think it was that high) addition to temps that the motherboard saw compared to what the actual temp was. This could be causing an alarm to buzz.
 
Just the highest temp should be good. I have a feeling that there is a default alarm set to warn when the CPU is getting too hot. With the 300 series motherboards there was a 20 degree (I think it was that high) addition to temps that the motherboard saw compared to what the actual temp was. This could be causing an alarm to buzz.
The CPU hit 86.63 degrees running cinebench R20 then crashed. I don't have any overclocking set up on the system so I'm wondering if the system is over heating and limiting performance? System is Idling around 1.3 V and 3800 - 3900 MHz. I'm surprised it didn't throttle before crashing. I have a good amount of airflow? Would it have crashed because of the unreliable power supply not providing proper power?
 
Just the highest temp should be good. I have a feeling that there is a default alarm set to warn when the CPU is getting too hot. With the 300 series motherboards there was a 20 degree (I think it was that high) addition to temps that the motherboard saw compared to what the actual temp was. This could be causing an alarm to buzz.
Just ran it again crashed just above 86 again. HW monitor shows it hanging around 3800-3900 MHz the whole time. Ryzen master shows 86 temp while HW monitor was showing 78 weirdly. Voltage seemed to hang around 1.25 V. When I turn on the system the MoBo does light up CPU that turns off then VGA turns on like 5 seconds later then no light while it is running. Just trying to provide as much info as possible
 
Even 86c is fine for that chip. I don't think it is heat related. Do these crashes or freezes or frame drops happen randomly or must you play for a while? If at random then I would say it is either PSU or your video card that is the problem. You can troubleshoot whichever one you want first or is easier and what not.🤷‍♀️🖐💯✝
 
Even 86c is fine for that chip. I don't think it is heat related. Do these crashes or freezes or frame drops happen randomly or must you play for a while? If at random then I would say it is either PSU or your video card that is the problem. You can troubleshoot whichever one you want first or is easier and what not.🤷‍♀️🖐💯✝
While 86c is within spec, that is getting a bit high. The max temp on that CPU is 95c. Ideally you want your max CPU temp on stock settings to say at or below 75c.

The CPU hit 86.63 degrees running cinebench R20 then crashed. I don't have any overclocking set up on the system so I'm wondering if the system is over heating and limiting performance? System is Idling around 1.3 V and 3800 - 3900 MHz. I'm surprised it didn't throttle before crashing. I have a good amount of airflow? Would it have crashed because of the unreliable power supply not providing proper power?
It is more likely that your PSU isn't able to provide reliable power to both the CPU and GPU when they are being stressed than the GPU being bad. Reason I feel this way is the EVGA W1 series is a known poor quality PSU and you were having issues before the new GPU was put into the system as well.
 
Quickest and fastest way,,,,Like almost everyone is saying it could be your power supply unit., You can go to your closest best buy and get a power supply, they have pretty good prices and power supply's in stock.

Best buy will let you return any purchase within 14 days, try the new power supply and let us know if the problem continues. if it doesn't then we know your power supply is not delivering the right amount of power needed for you system to run stable.
 
Quickest and fastest way,,,,Like almost everyone is saying it could be your power supply unit., You can go to your closest best buy and get a power supply, they have pretty good prices and power supply's in stock.

Best buy will let you return any purchase within 14 days, try the new power supply and let us know if the problem continues. if it doesn't then we know your power supply is not delivering the right amount of power needed for you system to run stable.
What most Best Buy's have in store for PSUs are lower end models. I just looked on their website to see what is available in store around me and there are 2 PSU options. You have the EVGA W1 600W (exactly what OP has) and the Corsair CX750M. The CXM isn't a bad PSU, but for $125 it is a bad choice. Not to mention the CXM isn't as good as the non-modular CX series.
 
What most Best Buy's have in store for PSUs are lower end models. I just looked on their website to see what is available in store around me and there are 2 PSU options. You have the EVGA W1 600W (exactly what OP has) and the Corsair CX750M. The CXM isn't a bad PSU, but for $125 it is a bad choice. Not to mention the CXM isn't as good as the non-modular CX series.
didn't i mentioned testing the system and returned the power supply before 14 days if needed? A corsair CX750M is more than enough to test his system. Then he can buy a better one and cheaper one elsewhere . and if i remember correctly that power supply is 80+ Bronze, more than reliable enough to test his system.

Update: I checked my local best buy online store and that power supply has 5 stars and over 1,800 reviews. Cant be that bad right? remember these are true customers not biases reviews. And like I mentioned earlier it can be returned after testing his system for stability. But for $125 ill test the system and return it.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsai...tx-power-supply-black/8324202.p?skuId=8324202
 
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didn't i mentioned testing the system and returned the power supply before 14 days if needed? A corsair CX750M is more than enough to test his system. Then he can buy a better one and cheaper one elsewhere . and if i remember correctly that power supply is 80+ Bronze, more than reliable enough to test his system.

Update: I checked my local best buy online store and that power supply has 5 stars and over 1,800 reviews. Cant be that bad right? remember these are true customers not biases reviews. And like I mentioned earlier it can be returned after testing his system for stability. But for $125 ill test the system and return it.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsai...tx-power-supply-black/8324202.p?skuId=8324202


If they'd definitely return for full refund its not a bad plan but in all honesty that psu needs replacing whether it's the main issue or not. It has no place running a 5700xt at all.

I'd just plump for a good quality and reasonably priced unit in the first place.

Antec Earthwatts Gold Pro Series EA650G Pro 650W Semi-Modular, 80 Plus Gold, 120mm Silent Fan, PhaseWave Design, 7 Year Warranty
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077G9V84S/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_XWHyFb8S6T6Q6


Antec Gold Pro 650w for $96 (seasonic focus platform) - absolutely solid psu.
 
didn't i mentioned testing the system and returned the power supply before 14 days if needed? A corsair CX750M is more than enough to test his system. Then he can buy a better one and cheaper one elsewhere . and if i remember correctly that power supply is 80+ Bronze, more than reliable enough to test his system.

Update: I checked my local best buy online store and that power supply has 5 stars and over 1,800 reviews. Cant be that bad right? remember these are true customers not biases reviews. And like I mentioned earlier it can be returned after testing his system for stability. But for $125 ill test the system and return it.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsai...tx-power-supply-black/8324202.p?skuId=8324202
First that is A LOT of work to take out the old PSU, put in a new PSU, test, take out new, return new, buy another new, and then install. While there is a 14 day return period and would work, is a lot more work than most people will do.

You do realize that most users don't know anything about PSUs, especially the internal components. They buy on price and brand recognition. Overall the CXM isn't as good as the CX (non-modular) but it is an upgrade from the EVGA W1. You don't have to believe what I say, but I would believe what Jonnyguru says since he is the director of R&D at Corsair. https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/recommended-psu-to-buy.3603290/#post-21736677 The CX makes it into his list for "cheapest PSUs from each of the "big brands" that I would ever suggest." Where as the CXM is in the ""it will do" suggestions. They all have double forward topologies. I wouldn't use any of the below, but if you're on a really tight budget, they are options" section.

Overall the odds are that the EVGA W1 PSU is the problem in the system. Replacing the PSU once with a high quality model will most likely fix the issue. If the issue end up being the GPU, less likely since this was happening with the old GPU as well, then that will still be under warranty and can be replaced that way all while having a PSU that will last a decade.
 
Well long story short we all agree with starting on replacing the Power Supply and yes for most people it is a lot of work and I also agree that the Antec Earthwatts Gold Pro Series EA650G Pro 650W Is a better and also cheaper power supply so that's a good thing.