Sabertooth x58

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mefa_star

mefa_star

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Mar 17, 2011
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Hello, I bought sabertooth x58 motherboard few days ago, I need to know what is this circled in red
img0r127.jpg

It's getting way to hot probably 60-70⁰C
I'm using i7 stock fan no additional cooling, cpu is running at default 3.06ghz (not overclocked) atmosphere temperature is 25-28 ⁰C, CPU temp. is at 37⁰C IDLE. Any help is welcome
 
Those in re circles are coated heatsink... the bottom red circle is the northbridge and tes it does get hot but shouldn't be passing 66*C... I got the same board with an i7 950 and i assume yours is too... It shouldn't be passing 65*C.. i Overclocked mine and it never passes 64*C and it's stuck right at 64*C MAX and around 59-60*C idle... I would recommend using a 40MM to cool it down and it does give you stability of OC... IF NorthBridge ever get 70*C, get a 40MM fan to blow on it otherwise your OC ain't ganna be stable... If you want to OC yours, use my settings 😀 XD BTW it's at 3.8GHz:

Asus SaberTooth X58 - i7 950

CPU-3841MHz, RAM-2009MHz
Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
CPU Ratio Setting - 23(If you want 1800MHx set this to 21)
Intel (R) SpeedStep (TM) Tech - Enabled
Intel (R) Turbo Mode Tech - Enabled
BCLK Frequency - 167(If you want 1800MHz set this to 181)
PCIE Fequency - 100
DRAM Frequency - DDR3 - 2009MHz

DRAM CAS# Latency - 9
DRAM RAS# to CAS# Delay - 10(Original is 9, have to get it stable with 10)
DRAM RAS# PRE Time - 9
DRAM RAS# ACT Time - 24
NOTE: My RAM is Kingston Hyper X 1800MHz... I also OC it to 2009MHz and is stable with 6 passes with memtest64 tested at boot with no error...

CPU Voltage 1.21875v(May require a bit or a bit less voltage)
CPU PLL Voltage - Auto
QPI/DRAM Voltage - Auto
IOH Voltage - Auto
IOH PCIE Voltage - Auto
ICH Voltage - Auto
ICH Voltage - Auto

DRAM Bus Voltage - 1.60v
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHA - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHA - Auto
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHB - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHB - Auto
DRAM DATA REF Voltage on CHC - Auto
DRAM CTRL REF Voltage on CHC - Auto

Load-Line Calibration - Enabled
CPU Differential Amplitude - Auto
CPU Clock Skew - Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum - Disabled
IOH Clock Skew - Auto
PCIE Spread Spectrum - Disabled

C1E Support.................. = [Disabled]
Hardware Prefetcher.......... = [Enabled]
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetch. = [Enabled]
Intel(r) Virtualization Tech. = [Enable]
CPU TM Function.............. = [Enable]
Execute Disable Bit.......... = [Enabled]
Intel(r) HT Technology....... = [Enabled]
Active Processor Cores....... = [All]
A20M......................... = [Disabled]
Intel(r) SpeedStep(tm) Tech.. = [Enabled]
Intel(r) C-STATE Tech........ = [Disabled]
 
Thanks a lot LegendKiller, your recommendations really worked, I've put 3 fans inside and i got these temperatures now
CPU is at 33⁰C IDLE / max load 63⁰C
System 34⁰C IDLE / max load 39⁰C (before Idle was over 41⁰C and under full load 57⁰C)
AUXIN (No Idea what is it) Idle 47⁰C / max load 54.5⁰C (before Idle was 57⁰C and under full load 68⁰C)
But i noticed a strange thing the CPU fan is not going over 2100rpm even though the cpu temp was 63⁰C. Before i mounted 3 other fans the rpm were going at over 2900 under load.
 
the AUXIN is the northbridge which is the bottom red circle... mine is like at 66*C... BTW If you dont have a fan on the northbridge, it'll keep rising when oyu kept using it... it goes down when you set the computer idle... But can you take a pic of your computer???
 
Here you go. http://imageshack.us/g/199/tempnow.jpg/
uploaded 11 images just don't laugh. I had to improvise the fans because i couldn't find to buy, (i live in a small town has only one PC store an that nothing useful so i had to... well you can see your self) i'm using one processor fan from an old system that i found with improvised connector to the motherboard, and 2 small ElectroMotors taken from CD Rom (they are not so laud that's why i used them) connected with a 2x12volts AC adapters. Until i buy new couple of 120mm fans i'll stick to this solution. not pretty but it works keeping the temps down as you can see. and the picture has been take few minutes after i closed Call of Duty Waw. Graphic card used to reach 80⁰C now as you can see 63⁰C is the max 😀
 
Just commenting:

Load-Line Calibration - Enabled ; good for 4GHz+ OC for vDroop, unnecessary for stock

The following most don't understand and if not OC leave as Defaults. See -> http://www.overclock.net/faqs/119265-how-clock-skew-can-save-your.html They do improve OC CPU & RAM if you know how to set them, but for the OP leave them alone.
CPU Differential Amplitude - Auto ; leave Auto
CPU Clock Skew - Auto
CPU Spread Spectrum - Disabled
IOH Clock Skew - Auto
PCIE Spread Spectrum - Disabled ; agreed -> http://zone.ni.com/devzone/cda/tut/p/id/4154

C1E Support.................. = [Disabled] ; Enabled for stock, Disabled for high OC to prevent vDrop
Hardware Prefetcher.......... = [Enabled] ; agreed/Default
Adjacent Cache Line Prefetch. = [Enabled] ; agreed/Default
Intel(r) Virtualization Tech. = [Enable] ; agreed/Default, not necessary unless running Virtualization, but won't help/harm
CPU TM Function.............. = [Enable] ; agreed/Default, prevents OC from harming CPU
Execute Disable Bit.......... = [Enabled] ; agreed/Default, most circumstances leave ON prevent malicious code from being inserted
Intel(r) HT Technology....... = [Enabled] ; OC + Gaming Disabled, HT adds 0 to Gaming, adds a lot of unnecessary heat and 9/10 why LegendKiller is at 3.8GHz
Active Processor Cores....... = [All] ; agreed/Default
A20M......................... = [Disabled] ; agreed/Default, for old OSes
Intel(r) SpeedStep(tm) Tech.. = [Enabled] ; agreed/Default, but conflicts with C1E Support above and for OC?!
Intel(r) C-STATE Tech........ = [Disabled] ; agreed/Default, depends on CPU used

---
@mefa_star - Interesting 'fan'. More than likely a lot of your heat is from your case design. Ideally, you want a case with PSU on the bottom, front/rear/top venting and fans. The X58 in particular the NB gets very hot so I also like side fan cases if possible. Further, as mentioned the TOP ventilation is key, and ideally NEGATIVE pressure inside the case; more air going OUT than In while maintaining Front/Bottom IN and Rear/Top out. A 120mm rear fan really isn;'t enough. IMO it's time for a new case e.g. $85 CM690 II Advanced -> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119216
 
I was at 3841MHz was because I got a Tt V1 AX which that is making me reaches 100*C so if i dont use 100% it regularly reaches around 50-73*C(Max when playing games) Disabled HTT is a good idea for "Gaming" but I also do some other stuff.. It's used for encoding/converting videos/music(Sometimes) But most of the time it's used for Gaming... BTW I see no Different from OverClocking from 1.6GHz(8Threads) and to 3.8GHz(With 8 Threads) and on 1920x1200 and it was used on a graphic card GT 220... I see no differees from OC for FPS and it's stuck in the low 15s FPS with the free to play game from steam-A.V.A.(Alliance of Valiant Arms) at max/full settings
 
@LegendKiller - I wasn't so much 'critiquing' your OC as much as I was discouraging @mefa_star from attempting to clone your BIOS settings on his rig at least until the heating problem is corrected.

IMO - Use Profiles 'Render 4GHz' with HT, without HT 'Gaming 4GHz', Stock, Crazy 5GHz, etc - it's silly to have your rig run so hot Googling or doing MS Word...you want to Game use 'Gaming 4GHz', etc.
 
Thanks both of you guys for your suggestions but i'm not overclocking it right not, at least not until i buy some good fans to really cool it down and maybe change the case also. The temps are not that bad, but improvised "cd rom fan" is not a solution so till i buy few big and power full fans i'm not overclocking.
one more question If anyone of you has a fan controller what's the weight, I'm not looking for a high tech controller, just a simple one that gets the job done.
 
BTW Where do you guys go to post these threads? I been searching for the last few days and not find out how to post one or where to post it... CAN HELP PLEASE...

You dont need big and powerful fan unless something is reaching around the 70s(Celsius) and if nothing is reaching than your good... BTW, when you do buy a heatsink, either get a CMH212+, ThermalRight Venomous X, OR ZALMAN CNPS11X Extreme... I recommend you getting the CMH212+ right now because it went up $5 just in few month from $30...
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=6506388&CatId=798
 
Find the 'section' that best matches your request e.g. ASUS MOBO -> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/forum-30-188.html ; you'll see 'Ask the Community' button click it to start a thread.

Master {all Forum topics} -> http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/ then narrow down from there. :)

We each have our fav's IMO I like the $70 Prolimatech Megahalems Rev.B http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835242001 the $50 CM 212+ http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103065 is okay when priced at $35 but at $50 it's too high now. You really want 2 fans for push-pull.

The $90 Noctua NH-D14 has very good cooling (particularly when in 3 fan) but it's really BIG like a lawn mower engine. The $60 Thermaltake Frio http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106150 {when push-pull} is a good performer and good looking.

The best for the money {performance & looks} IMO is the ~$45 is the Scythe SCMG-2100 but recently deactivated http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185142 other online stores carry it.
 
Thanks jaquith for youe help 😀...

If your doing extreme Overclocking, get the Thermright Venomous X for around $60 and it's better than most cooler(The fitting and the cooling)

You can find a lot of 'High Performance Cooler" but there's only one that is better than most of them in all kind of ways LOL... Here's a Shoot Out of which the BEST!!!

http://clunk.org.uk/reviews/high-performance-cpu-cooler-shootout-q2-2011.html

Edit: Dont the get the Noctua NH-D14 because at the same price, there's a way better one:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835118091&cm_re=Copper-_-35-118-091-_-Product
 
I appreciate 'tests', but when it comes to HSF it all about the CFM of the fans and to that the NOISE they produce. You can take ANY HSF and team it up with a pair of Delta AFB1212GHE-CF00 240+ CFM/62 dBA if you're DEAF and beat a liquid loop.

Most 3000 RPM fans are a deafening 40~50+ dBA which is WAY too loud; aka Useless.

Therefore, the 'KEY' to to find Reasonable cooling to Reasonable noise at a price you can afford to the OC needed. If you want to OC any i7 9xx >4GHz, and in particular 4.2GHz+ then it's time to shop for water.
 
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