Question Samsung 870 Evo SSD potentially fried ?

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fzabkar said:
That would be a start. If Vout is shorted to ground, then you would need to remove the e-fuse and retest for shorts. If the short then goes away, the e-fuse is the culprit. Otherwise we would need to look further.
Click to expand...

fzabkar said:
That would be a start. If Vout is shorted to ground, then you would need to remove the e-fuse and retest for shorts. If the short then goes away, the e-fuse is the culprit. Otherwise we would need to look further
Click to expand...
https://imgur.com/a/YyVBClY
View: https://imgur.com/a/YyVBClY


ok so I finally ended up cracking the thing open. Images attached, I suspect the eFuse is the black square in the top left of the second image in this link (let me know if im wrong). in the third image, i am showing my multimeter probe next to the board, im wondering if i need a thinner probe to actually take these readings accurately take readings as the pins on the board are much smaller than I had anticipated. Or does it not matter if the probe is touching 2 of the vout pins for instance, when im taking the reading. This is the first time im messing around with something so small and fragile like this so I apologize for the confusion haha
 
fzabkar said:
The Vout and Vin pins are internally connected within the IC, so it doesn't matter if you short them with your probe.
Click to expand...
ok cool so those probes should be fine. anything in specific i should be careful of so i dont break anything? i will check for continuity between the in and out pins. then also check if vout shorts to ground. what should i probe for "ground" ? also in the image i sent the vin and vout are the top 3 pins or the bottom 3 pins? im not sure if i have the fuse upside down in the image
 
fzabkar said:
The Vout and Vin pins are internally connected within the IC, so it doesn't matter if you short them with your probe.
Click to expand...
vout to ground - 17.23m
vin to ground - 17.5m
verified continuity between vin and vout.

so that means nothings wrong with the fuse? is the issue downstream or is there something im missing? if the fuse has power, should i now try to connect the safe mode pins . or try recovery software. what course of action do i take from here
 
Your e-fuse isn't shorted to ground at either input or output, but it is shorted from input to output. It should only pass current when the input voltage exceeds an undervoltage threshold (UVLO). In other words, the fuse is damaged.

Can you measure the resistances between ground and each of the supply voltage test points in the following images?

https://i.postimg.cc/fRK6jBPL/PMIC.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/4drMNMY8/Atxyz-Silergy-e-fuse.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/59CTkxrD/load-switch-TPS22990-1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/ZqJJJWG9/load-switch-TPS22990-2.jpg

"22Ax" appears to be a load switch which is probably similar to the TPS22990.

TPS22990, Texas Instruments, 5.5V, 10A, 3.9mΩ On-Resistance Load Switch, WSON-10:
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps22990.pdf

The e-fuse appears to be equivalent to an STEF4S and is probably made by Silergy (part marking Atxyz).

https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stef4s.pdf
 
fzabkar said:
Your e-fuse isn't shorted to ground at either input or output, but it is shorted from input to output. It should only pass current when the input voltage exceeds an undervoltage threshold (UVLO). In other words, the fuse is damaged.

Can you measure the resistances between ground and each of the supply voltage test points in the following images?

https://i.postimg.cc/fRK6jBPL/PMIC.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/4drMNMY8/Atxyz-Silergy-e-fuse.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/59CTkxrD/load-switch-TPS22990-1.jpg
https://i.postimg.cc/ZqJJJWG9/load-switch-TPS22990-2.jpg

"22Ax" appears to be a load switch which is probably similar to the TPS22990.

TPS22990, Texas Instruments, 5.5V, 10A, 3.9mΩ On-Resistance Load Switch, WSON-10:
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/tps22990.pdf

The e-fuse appears to be equivalent to an STEF4S and is probably made by Silergy (part marking Atxyz).

https://www.st.com/resource/en/datasheet/stef4s.pdf
Click to expand...
took some readings let me know if any are way off/ need to be retested. i noticed some resistances would keep fluctuating in one direction as long as i held the probes in place , which made some of these hard to get.

first image

V1 - 222.6k
V2 - 500
V3 - 133
V4 - 2430
V5 - 400m
V6 - 2540
V7 - 0.98m

second image

5out - 5.00 m (then starts slowly decreasing down to 0.300m) (much different from a few days ago not sure if i messed something up when poking around)
5vin - 17.3 m

third image

vin - 200k
vout - 19.13k
unlabeled square - 0.9m

fourth image

vin - 500
vout - 18.5k
unlabeled square - 500
 
fzabkar said:
I'm confused by "V5 - 400m". I assumed that "m" meant megohms, in which case 400m makes no sense.
Click to expand...
took the reading again, got 2.5m then after holding it in place it moves all the way to 130k (again not sure if that normal behavior), i must have jotted it incorrectly when i put 400m. if any others look way off or don't make sense, ill buy thinner probes as the ones im using now may not be the "most" accurate. let me know what you think
 
The fuse is dead. You now have some choices.

You can ask someone to desolder the e-fuse and bridge 5Vin and 5Vout with a regular 4A fuse. Alternatively, you can run a wire or fuse between 5Vin and 5Vout without removing the IC.

I'm relying on the accuracy of your resistance measurements. There are some risks with the latter approach, but they would be minimised if you were to power your drive inside a USB enclosure. These have AC adaptors that are current limited by design.

I presume that the e-fuse was not too hot to touch.
 
fzabkar said:
The fuse is dead. You now have some choices.

You can ask someone to desolder the e-fuse and bridge 5Vin and 5Vout with a regular 4A fuse. Alternatively, you can run a wire or fuse between 5Vin and 5Vout without removing the IC.

I'm relying on the accuracy of your resistance measurements. There are some risks with the latter approach, but they would be minimised if you were to power your drive inside a USB enclosure. These have AC adaptors that are current limited by design.

I presume that the e-fuse was not too hot to touch.
Click to expand...
The fuse is not hot at all.
I would definitely prefer running the wire without removing the IC. When you say USB enclosure, you are not reffering to a normal sata to usb adapter correct? instead are you referring to something like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0126R1BG...subtag=tomshardware-us-5348962646360055349-20
 
Jimmernick said:
The fuse is not hot at all.
I would definitely prefer running the wire without removing the IC. When you say USB enclosure, you are not reffering to a normal sata to usb adapter correct? instead are you referring to something like this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0126R1BG...subtag=tomshardware-us-5348962646360055349-20
Click to expand...
Either should be OK. Both are current limited by design. USB 3 is specified for 5V @ 900mA. I think that should be enough, although the rating on the 870 Evo's sticker is 1.1A.

Good luck
 
fzabkar said:
Either should be OK. Both are current limited by design. USB 3 is specified for 5V @ 900mA. I think that should be enough, although the rating on the 870 Evo's sticker is 1.1A.

Good luck
Click to expand...
thanks. i already have the sata to usb so i can try this out right now. is there a way to attach the wire without soldering? are there clips small enough for this job/ would electrical tape work etc. ?
 
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