Question Seemingly random BSOD's

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Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
If you don't mind my asking, where ARE you from, as I might be able to better guide you towards a good unit if I know? Any of those units is fine, I'd definitely go for the 2018 version of the RMx over the older version though. Either the RMi or RMx are better than the RM, which has an inferior capacitor selection and an inferior fan compared to the other two.

The Earthwatts Gold is a fine unit too. Not as good as the RMx, but better by FAR than what you had.


This is what our old tier list, that was fairly accurate as compared to ALL other existing or defunct tier lists, had to say. The old HardOCP review for the FSP Raider said it was a POS too, but that review is gone now because all of the old HardOCP reviews are lost now that the entire site has been taken down.

Looking at it's companions there, the quality of it's company on that level of the tier list was extremely poor. Not the worst, as they weren't tier five, but all these units listed below were just really bad power supplies. Any time I come across one of these they go straight into the trash can.



Tier Four - Not for overclocking systems or high end gaming rigs. May not even output labeled power and fail standard ATX specifications slightly. May even use cheap components to meet a price
Aerocool
GT Series 500s 700s 1050s
Integrator 600w
Strike-X series 800w 1100w
Templarius Imperator series

E-power units
Firepower Fatal1ty 2013
FSP Raider series
InWin Glacier
LC power
LEPA MX-F1 series (Trigger-happy Overcurrent protection and very poor quality capacitors)

NZXT
Hale82N 650w
Hale82 V2 700w

Thermaltake Smart series[/b]
Zalman US Fanless 400w (HardOCP reports some poor quality issues at such a high price)
 
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I'm from Denmark.

And the reason I'm asking about the RMi is because the guide you linked mentioned it as better than the RMx. So if they're basically the same I might as well take the cheaper one, but otherwise $15 isn't a lot of money.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Either of them are good. The only REAL difference is that the RMi integrated the use of the Corsair link for some internal monitoring while the RMx does not have this feature. Mostly, this is not a necessary feature as it is not present on any but a handful of power supplies across the industry.

This looks like your best choice right now.


PCPartPicker Part List

Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply (873.00kr @ Alternate)
Total: 873.00kr
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-02-06 18:53 CET+0100
 
Jan 28, 2020
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I have now ordered the RMx. Hopefully it arrives tomorrow, and then I'll see if that does the trick.

Thank you all so much for your help so far.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Don't be entirely surprised if the problem isn't instantly fixed, just know that THIS is the MOST likely culprit and without eliminating it as a possiblity, doing anything else is just more like chasing ghosts than anything else.
 
Reactions: DMAN999

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
I think it's about a 50/50 chance to be honest. But if the PSU is not the problem, I think it makes it a lot easier to figure out what it IS from that point on though. Plus, given what you had as a power supply, it was really a necessity anyhow and you can sleep better at night, well, I can anyhow, knowing that your machine isn't likely to burn up anytime soon due to the PSU.
 
Jan 28, 2020
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Yeah, even if it doesn't help solve it I'm absolutely fine with replacing the old one.

So if there is a chance it solves it, it makes it easier to troubleshoot, and gives you some peace of mind that's just a bonus ;)
 
Jan 28, 2020
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So, it's been about a week since I changed PSU.
I have since then had 2 BSOD's, one Tuesday, and one Wednesday. It does seem to have improved, but I'm a little hestitant to say that it definitely has since I also went without BSOD's fri-mon the week before.

Are we back at RAM being the most likely culprit? If so I'll just buy a new set. Currently looking at these:

https://www.gskill.com/product/165/184/1536113464/F4-3600C16D-16GVKRipjaws-VDDR4-3600MHz-CL16-16-16-36-1.35V16GB-(2x8GB) (I think we were looking at these the first time around as well, but they weren't in stock anywere)

https://www.gskill.com/product/165/184/1536055178/F4-3200C14D-16GVKRipjaws-VDDR4-3200MHz-CL14-14-14-34-1.35V16GB-(2x8GB)

Their specs seem decent and aren't too pricey. They should also be compatible ;)
I have also looked at the similarly specced TridentZ's, but they're more expensive, and I'm not sure what the difference is.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
As per my good friend and fellow moderator Computronix:

Memory specifications and overclocking can be very deceiving. If you're unaware, here's the formula for "True Latency":

1 / Frequency (not DDR) x Latency = True Latency (nanoseconds).

Stock 3200 @ 14 is faster than Stock 3600 @ 16:

1 / 1.600GHz x 14 = 8.75nS
1 / 1.800GHz x 16 = 8.89nS

Stable Overclock with 3733 @ 16 is faster:

3733 @ 16 is 1 / 1.867GHz x 16 = 8.57nS
So I'd go with the CL 14 3200mhz kit, which in fact is a Samsung B-die kit anyhow, meaning it is a terrific memory kit using the absolute best memory chips on the market. Regardless that it is Ripjaws and not Trident Z or Dominator Platinum, they are still superb memory modules and should actually be faster than the 3600mhz kit in terms of actual latency, which is where the rub lies anyhow.
 
Jan 28, 2020
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Swapped out the RAM-sticks wednesday (and also made sure XMP was enabled), and just got another BSOD. Although i think this is the first time I've gotten an ATTEMPTED_EXECUTE_OF_NOEXECUTE_MEMORY, but I'm not sure.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
Did you do a hard reset of the BIOS after installing the new sticks? If not, I would do that. Power off. Unplug the cable or switch the PSU to the "0" position. Pull the CMOS battery for five minutes. Press the power button for 30 seconds continuously during that five minutes. Put the CMOS battery back in. Plug back in or switch PSU back to the "I" position. Power on. Go into BIOS and enable XMP. See how it does.

Do you have a Windows 7 or 8 driver installed for any piece of hardware or peripheral, maybe one that doesn't HAVE a Windows 10 driver available?
 

DMAN999

Reputable
Ambassador
That new RAM kit is listed by G.Skill as compatible with your MB so I would clear the CMOS using the CMOS jumper shown on page 15 of your manual:
https://download.gigabyte.com/FileList/Manual/mb_manual_x570-aorus-elite-wifi_e.pdf
Using these steps:
  1. Unplug the PC (PSU).
  2. Then press the Power Button for at least 30 seconds.
  3. Use a flat headed screwdriver to short the CLR CMOS Jumper (Touch both jumper pins with the screwdriver) for at least 15 seconds.
  4. Plug the PC back in.
  5. Press the Power Button to turn the PC on.
  6. Repeatedly tap the DEL key
  7. A screen should come up telling you to press the F1 key, do that.
  8. Set the Optimized Default settings and Press OK (this is on the EXIT tab)
  9. Save and exit the BIOS.
  10. Tap the DEL key again to enter the BIOS and change any settings you want changed then save and exit again.
Then try a clean re-install of Windows 10 to eliminate a software (OS) issue.
 
Jan 28, 2020
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Tried Darkbreezes approach, BSOD'ed within 15 minutes, and the tried DMAN999s approach including clean install.
So far I've let Windows Update do its thing, installed radeon software 20.1.3, Google Chrome, Discord and League of Legends. Haven't touched Device Manager or the drivers on the motherboards page at GIGABYTE.

Let's see how it goes.
 

gardenman

Admirable
Ambassador
I tried to download the memory.dmp and it failed (right as it finished). It took me about an hour due to my slow connection. I'll try again later if needed, but I get the same info from a full memory.dmp as I do the normal minidumps. There are others around who can get more info from the memory.dmp but they are not around as often.

Minidump results: https://silkiestcaterpillar.htmlpasta.com/

File information:022420-5515-01.dmp (Feb 24 2020 - 13:12:17)
Bugcheck:IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL (A)
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: System)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 21 Hour(s), 31 Min(s), and 27 Sec(s)

File information:022220-5421-01.dmp (Feb 22 2020 - 13:10:08)
Bugcheck:REFERENCE_BY_POINTER (18)
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: chrome.exe)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 2 Hour(s), 42 Min(s), and 18 Sec(s)

This information can be used by others to help you. I can't help you with this. Someone else will post with more information. Please wait for additional answers. Good luck.
 

Colif

Win 10 Master
Moderator
Jan 28, 2020
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I'll get on it when I get home. I purposefully skipped it to limit moderations as it hasn't changed much in the past, but that was before new PSU/RAM.
 
Jan 28, 2020
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Updated LAN-driver to the one specified on the motherboard support page, and crashed again not long after. Dump file added to the previously linked one-drive folder.
 

gardenman

Admirable
Ambassador
I ran the new dump file through the debugger and got the following information: https://garretedtoaster.htmlpasta.com/

File information:022520-5421-01.dmp (Feb 25 2020 - 11:42:35)
Bugcheck:SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION (3B)
Probably caused by:memory_corruption (Process: Discord.exe)
Uptime:0 Day(s), 22 Hour(s), 14 Min(s), and 05 Sec(s)

This information can be used by others to help you. I can't help you with this. Someone else will post with more information. Please wait for additional answers. Good luck.
 

Darkbreeze

Titan
Moderator
I would uninstall Discord and see if you continue to have problems. If not, then it is probably because Discord, much like Skype used to, might tend to be very buggy at times. I've seen a fair number of people here lately with random BSOD problems that were using Discord. Never heard back from any of them after suggesting that might be the problem but I think that alone makes it at least moderately likely it was. Could also be that it is conflicting with something else on your system. Could also be that some resource it is using is the actual problem, but as a test it's probably worth avoiding for a day or two to check if it goes away.
 
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