Serious Liquid Cooling Problem

[amd_overclocker]

Ok so my Friends new computer is having a very bad liquid cooling problem, IT LEAKS. the liquid cooling is compleatly custom.
cooling system
2x danger den black ice gt stealth radiators
2x swiftech MCW60 vga waterblocks (where the leak is)
swiftech apogee GTZ cpu waterblock (AM2)
swiftech MCRES rev. 2
all on 1/2 inch lines

the gpu water block just dont seem to want to stop leaking. we have tried pipe thread and using epoxy(which made it not fit right)
any one have any ideas?

if you have any questions for me i will provide the best answer i can.

Thank You in advance

 

[Mondoman]

The epoxy has likely ruined the block if it wasn't already. Just buy a new block. In the future, you can try using a bit of automotive PST like this: http://www.captainsmarinesupply.com/permatex-pst-pipe-sealant-w-teflon-ind.html

 

[Conumdrum]

Where is it leaking? Where the barbs screw into the block or the hose on the barbs?

 

[amd_overclocker]

It was leaking where the barbs screw into the block, we put teflon tape on it but it didnt seem to help.

 

[Conumdrum]

What barbs did you use and what happened to the o-rings?

 

[amd_overclocker]

I used the barbs they came with. the o rings are fine. my friend thinks that it now has been fixed. he is also just going to get a 4870x2 and water cooler instead.

 

[Conumdrum]

A water cooler. What is a 'water cooler'?

The barbs shouldn't of leaked. Something happened wrong. Anyway, if they are metal barbs from a reputable WC company and installed properly they shouldn't leak. Get good aftermarket barbs, like Fatboys. The plastic ones suck.

Tighten to firm hand tight and 1/2 with a wrench. More than that and the oring can pop out if it's not a captive oring barb. I spend 2-3 minutes inspecting barbs after tightening them to closely inspect the o-ring. I even remove the oring and inspect it before installing the barb. Need a TON of care with water in the PC.

You never ever need tape or gunk to seal an oring seal if done right. You just screw up the threads.

Hope this helps when your friend gets his more expensive card and block.

 

[amd_overclocker]

srry i meant to say waterblock not water cooler. i think it was leaking because of the cheap plastic barbs.

 

[Conumdrum]

Cool, best of luck. Give Danger Den a look for WB, a top place.

 

[richardscott]

when useing teflon tape you have to turn it onto the thread the correct way so that it doesnt unravel and all end up at the top of the thread.

 

[rubix_1011]

Make sure you don't strip or overtighten those barbs...if you do, chances are you will cause leaking with those acetal tops. Also, like Conumdrum said...only use metal barbs, especially for blocks. You can get away with plastic elbows at times, but on your blocks, only use metal.

I finally got my old TDX off and installed my D-Tek v.2 on Friday night. I am seeing 8-10C drops across all cores at load. I can't believe I stuck with that old block sooo long. I got the quad nozzle insert and tried it with both, but didn't really see the difference between with it and without, so I went without it since it seemed to provide about twice the flow rate.

 

[wickedsnow]

Make sure you put the input and output hoses in the right spots. I have seen people put cooling kits on backwards, and it causes too much pressure and leaks. Some systems will work bi-directionally, however in most cases, it's only one direction. Just a thought.

 

[rubix_1011]

In theory, it shouldn't matter which direction the coolant is pumped as long as it's running in a constant loop and properly bled. At any single point in the loop, the coolant is being both pushed and pulled by the pump, much like a train running in a circle with the locomotive hitched up to the back of the last car. You might get minimal temperature differences depending on placement of components in the loop, such as the radiator in relation to your specific water blocks, but outside of this, fluid dynamics should be the same in either direction because the coolant is still passing through both in\out fittings and blocks. The only way this would be different would be if directional flow valves were put in place on components, but that would create a specific fail point of the loop if you did get the install wrong...but I don't think a 'dummy kit' would employ a device like that.