[SOLVED] SSD caused increased PSU fan speed

[Dan Crookes]

Hello all, this is my first post here hoping to find some help!

I today cloned my existing HDD onto a new SSD in the hope of getting some speed improvements. After cloning to my new SSD, after selecting this as the boot drive, my PSU fan got very fast and loud (annoyingly so) it didn’t do this when the SSD was plugged in (sata) and being cloned, only once used as the boot drive.

i decided to switch back to the HDD, I unplugged the SSD, and PSU fan returned to normal. Plugged SSD back in, PSU fan maxed out again. However this time after removing the SSD, the PSU fan has remained loud and fast with just the HDD, any ideas??

If any further info would be of use I’m happy to provide this (may need a description on how to provide it though!)

PSU - fractal design 500w essence fd-psu-es1b-si9-500w - computer was purchased in 2018. PSU is difficult to get at and do a visible check without removing, but all looks ok, no sign of any damage or much dust either.

HDD - Western Digital WDC WD10EZEX-75WN4A0 1TB (560GB occupied)
SSD - Crucial CT1000MX500SSD1 1TB (560GB occupied - Clone)

BIOS - American Megatrends F22 Version 3
OS - Windows 10 Home 10.0.19044
Motherboard - Gigabyte H110M-S2H-CF
Processor - Intel Core i5-7400 3GHz
Graphics - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB

Clone done with AOMI Backupper

Later Update - after leaving the computer powered down for a while, the PSU fan has returned to "normal" again, this is with just the HDD.

thanks in advance,
Dan

 

[Ralston18]

Update your post to include full system hardware specs and OS information.

Include PSU: make, model, wattage, age, condition?

Disk drive(s): make, model, capacity, how full.

How did you clone the drive - what app?

Do a screen capture of the full Management Window and post here via imgur (www.imgur.com).

 

[Satan-IR]

You've been monitoring this in the BIOS or same in the OS after it boots too? In BIOS almost all system fans speed up and CPU is not idle either.

 

[Dan Crookes]

Update your post to include full system hardware specs and OS information.

Include PSU: make, model, wattage, age, condition?

Disk drive(s): make, model, capacity, how full.

How did you clone the drive - what app?

Do a screen capture of the full Management Window and post here via imgur (www.imgur.com).

Think thats all the details asked for except for the "Management Window" not sure what this is, sorry! Did a quick google but nothing obviouse came up either?

BR,
Dan

 

[Dan Crookes]

You've been monitoring this in the BIOS or same in the OS after it boots too? In BIOS almost all system fans speed up and CPU is not idle either.

Same in the OS after too

 

[jonnyguru]

i decided to switch back to the HDD, I unplugged the SSD, and PSU fan returned to normal. Plugged SSD back in, PSU fan maxed out again. However this time after removing the SSD, the PSU fan has remained loud and fast with just the HDD

For how long? How long did you wait for the PSU to cool down and the fan to stop spinning too fast after unplugging the SSD?

 

[USAFRet]

After the clone process, did you physically remove the HDD and allow the system to try to boot form only the OS?
This is not an optional step.

 

[Dan Crookes]

For how long? How long did you wait for the PSU to cool down and the fan to stop spinning too fast after unplugging the SSD?

not 100% sure how long the second time, the first time was very quick, second 10 mins maybe. I don’t think it’s a temp issue though, unless the PSU is getting very hot very quick. Which it doesn’t feel to be.

I left the PC sat idle for 5-10 mins after startup process waiting for the fan to settle, but this didn’t happen, should I wait longer?

 

[Dan Crookes]

After the clone process, did you physically remove the HDD and allow the system to try to boot form only the OS?
This is not an optional step.

‘first time after the clone, went into bios and couldn’t see the new SSD, did some googling and so second time removed the old HDD, I could then see the SSD in the bios and booted from this. It was from this boot up the fan first started going fast.

 

[USAFRet]

‘first time after the clone, went into bios and couldn’t see the new SSD, did some googling and so second time removed the old HDD, I could then see the SSD in the bios and booted from this. It was from this boot up the fan first started going fast.

And the HDD is still physically disconnected?

Since they are both (hopefully) identical, you really want only one or the other connected.

 

[Dan Crookes]

And the HDD is still physically disconnected?

Since they are both (hopefully) identical, you really want only one or the other connected.

I have tried to boot it from the SD with and without the HDD connected now, both occasions I had the fan issue, this seems to go away if I remove the SSD and restore the HDD only and leave powered down for a few mins before rebooting. As soon as I swap back to the SSD the fan goes full throttle as soon as I power up.

once i resolve the PSU fan issue I want to format the old HDD and just use for storage, so yes ideally just have the one OS drive, but want to be sure everything is working ok first!

 

[USAFRet]

I have tried to boot it with and without the HDD now, both occasions I had the fan issue, this seems to go away if I remove the SSD and restore the HDD only and leave powered down for a few mins before rebooting. As soon as I swap back to the SSD the fan goes full throttle as soon as I power up.

once i resolve the PSU fan issue I want to format the old HDD and just use for storage, so yes ideally just have the one OS drive, but want to be sure everything is working ok first!

So the system works OK with the original HDD, but acts weird with the cloned SSD?

Assuming it all still works with the original, I'd consider redoing the clone operation.

Just like this....

-----------------------------
Specific steps for a successful clone operation:
-----------------------------
Verify the actual used space on the current drive is significantly below the size of the new SSD
Both drives must be the same partitioning scheme, either MBR or GPT
Download and install Macrium Reflect (or Samsung Data Migration, if a Samsung SSD)
If you are cloning from a SATA drive to PCIe/NVMe, install the relevant driver for this new NVMe/PCIe drive.
Power off
Disconnect ALL drives except the current C and the new SSD
Power up
Run the Macrium Reflect (or Samsung Data Migration)
Select ALL the partitions on the existing C drive

[Ignore this section if using the SDM. It does this automatically]
If you are going from a smaller drive to a larger, by default, the target partition size will be the same as the Source. You probably don't want that
You can manipulate the size of the partitions on the target (larger)drive
Click on "Cloned Partition Properties", and you can specifiy the resulting partition size, to even include the whole thing
[/end ignore]

Click the 'Clone' button
Wait until it is done
When it finishes, power off
Disconnect ALL drives except for the new SSD. This is not optional.
This is to allow the system to try to boot from ONLY the SSD
Swap the SATA cables around so that the new drive is connected to the same SATA port as the old drive
Power up, and verify the BIOS boot order
If good, continue the power up

It should boot from the new drive, just like the old drive.
Maybe reboot a time or two, just to make sure.

If it works, and it should, all is good.

Later, reconnect the old drive and wipe all partitions on it.
This will probably require the commandline diskpart function, and the clean command.

Ask questions if anything is unclear.
-----------------------------

 

[Dan Crookes]

So the system works OK with the original HDD, but acts weird with the cloned SSD?

Assuming it all still works with the original, I'd consider redoing the clone operation.

Just like this....

-----------------------------
Specific steps for a successful clone operation:
-----------------------------
Verify the actual used space on the current drive is significantly below the size of the new SSD
Both drives must be the same partitioning scheme, either MBR or GPT
Download and install Macrium Reflect (or Samsung Data Migration, if a Samsung SSD)
If you are cloning from a SATA drive to PCIe/NVMe, install the relevant driver for this new NVMe/PCIe drive.
Power off
Disconnect ALL drives except the current C and the new SSD
Power up
Run the Macrium Reflect (or Samsung Data Migration)
Select ALL the partitions on the existing C drive

[Ignore this section if using the SDM. It does this automatically]
If you are going from a smaller drive to a larger, by default, the target partition size will be the same as the Source. You probably don't want that
You can manipulate the size of the partitions on the target (larger)drive
Click on "Cloned Partition Properties", and you can specifiy the resulting partition size, to even include the whole thing
[/end ignore]

Click the 'Clone' button
Wait until it is done
When it finishes, power off
Disconnect ALL drives except for the new SSD. This is not optional.
This is to allow the system to try to boot from ONLY the SSD
Swap the SATA cables around so that the new drive is connected to the same SATA port as the old drive
Power up, and verify the BIOS boot order
If good, continue the power up

It should boot from the new drive, just like the old drive.
Maybe reboot a time or two, just to make sure.

If it works, and it should, all is good.

Later, reconnect the old drive and wipe all partitions on it.
This will probably require the commandline diskpart function, and the clean command.

Ask questions if anything is unclear.
-----------------------------

Thank you, will give this a try tomorrow evening.
With regards to how to handle the cloning re different drive sizes. Both my drives are 1TB, so assuming it’s ok to just clone like for like?

 

[USAFRet]

Thank you, will give this a try tomorrow evening.
With regards to how to handle the cloning re different drive sizes. Both my drives are 1TB, so assuming it’s ok to just clone like for like?

Yes.

 

[jonnyguru]

not 100% sure how long the second time, the first time was very quick, second 10 mins maybe. I don’t think it’s a temp issue though, unless the PSU is getting very hot very quick. Which it doesn’t feel to be.

I left the PC sat idle for 5-10 mins after startup process waiting for the fan to settle, but this didn’t happen, should I wait longer?

Possibly.

You can't "feel" if a PSU is getting too hot because different components inside operate at different temperatures and you're not feeling those components.

Here's what I'm getting at: No offense, but that PSU is hot garbage. One of the worse. The HDD runs primarily off of +12V. The SSD runs only off of +5V. Lower voltage, higher current. Higher current, higher temperatures. And it's not like a Fractal Essence is an efficient PSU (which means it generates a lot of heat by it's very nature.) You're increasing the +5V load and the PSU is overheating because of it and that's why the fan is spinning like nuts. If you want the problem to go away, you'll want to replace the potato.

 

[Dan Crookes]

Possibly.

You can't "feel" if a PSU is getting too hot because different components inside operate at different temperatures and you're not feeling those components.

Here's what I'm getting at: No offense, but that PSU is hot garbage. One of the worse. The HDD runs primarily off of +12V. The SSD runs only off of +5V. Lower voltage, higher current. Higher current, higher temperatures. And it's not like a Fractal Essence is an efficient PSU (which means it generates a lot of heat by it's very nature.) You're increasing the +5V load and the PSU is overheating because of it and that's why the fan is spinning like nuts. If you want the problem to go away, you'll want to replace the potato.

thanks for the info, after finding the make and model of it and the doing a bit of research it did come across as garbage, so I will look to see if I can replace this (looks like I’ll be learning something new!)

this is a potentially really stupid question, but should I be using a different cable from the PSU if the SSD is pulling 5V rather than 12V?
that appears to be the only line with that power connection, but I can look again for another.

 

[jonnyguru]

thanks for the info, after finding the make and model of it and the doing a bit of research it did come across as garbage, so I will look to see if I can replace this (looks like I’ll be learning something new!)

this is a potentially really stupid question, but should I be using a different cable from the PSU if the SSD is pulling 5V rather than 12V?
that appears to be the only line with that power connection, but I can look again for another.

No. An SSD is SUPPOSED TO USE +5V. That's typical of logic boards. So, for an HDD, it is using +12V and just the I/O is using +5V and that's why the +5V load is much lower.

But I see this all of the time with stupid stuff like RGB. People put a bunch of lighting strips that use +5V in their PC and all of the sudden their PSU fan spins up.

I really wish PSU voltages would go up and not down, but c'est la vie.

You don't even really need a spectacular PSU. You just need to go from a Yugo crashed in a ditch to at least a Hyundai with half a tank of gas.

 

[Dan Crookes]

Possibly.

You can't "feel" if a PSU is getting too hot because different components inside operate at different temperatures and you're not feeling those components.

Here's what I'm getting at: No offense, but that PSU is hot garbage. One of the worse. The HDD runs primarily off of +12V. The SSD runs only off of +5V. Lower voltage, higher current. Higher current, higher temperatures. And it's not like a Fractal Essence is an efficient PSU (which means it generates a lot of heat by it's very nature.) You're increasing the +5V load and the PSU is overheating because of it and that's why the fan is spinning like nuts. If you want the problem to go away, you'll want to replace the potato.

Furhter thought on this. If i had let the PC / PSU cool (computer off, overnight) so that everything is definitely not hot. When booting up for the first time in the morning, if it is this Amp issue as mentioned, would you expect the PSU fan to go to max immediately, i.e. the components are getting hot the moment power is passing through? or would / should there be a slight delay still on the fan going to max as the components temprature increases?

 

[Dan Crookes]

Hello all, this is my first post here hoping to find some help!

I today cloned my existing HDD onto a new SSD in the hope of getting some speed improvements. After cloning to my new SSD, after selecting this as the boot drive, my PSU fan got very fast and loud (annoyingly so) it didn’t do this when the SSD was plugged in (sata) and being cloned, only once used as the boot drive.

i decided to switch back to the HDD, I unplugged the SSD, and PSU fan returned to normal. Plugged SSD back in, PSU fan maxed out again. However this time after removing the SSD, the PSU fan has remained loud and fast with just the HDD, any ideas??

If any further info would be of use I’m happy to provide this (may need a description on how to provide it though!)

PSU - fractal design 500w essence fd-psu-es1b-si9-500w - computer was purchased in 2018. PSU is difficult to get at and do a visible check without removing, but all looks ok, no sign of any damage or much dust either.

HDD - Western Digital WDC WD10EZEX-75WN4A0 1TB (560GB occupied)
SSD - Crucial CT1000MX500SSD1 1TB (560GB occupied - Clone)

BIOS - American Megatrends F22 Version 3
OS - Windows 10 Home 10.0.19044
Motherboard - Gigabyte H110M-S2H-CF
Processor - Intel Core i5-7400 3GHz
Graphics - NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 3GB

Clone done with AOMI Backupper

Later Update - after leaving the computer powered down for a while, the PSU fan has returned to "normal" again, this is with just the HDD.

thanks in advance,
Dan

Further update, turned my PC on today for work, with just the old HDD in. Working fine for around 3 hours. Then by PSU fan has kicked in again at high speed. I work in a virtual Citrix environment, so there is very little going on on my local machine. Would this potentially indicate that my PSU is maybe past its best and just getting hotter than it used to?

 

[Satan-IR]

That PSU is bad news to begin with. Yes that might mean it's worse now.

I'd suggest you replace it with some decent brand/model before it fails and takes anything down with it.

 

[Dan Crookes]

Thanks everyone for the help so far, I think given the dodgy nature of the PSU that came with my PC and it’s age / response to adding an SSD in going to replace it, looking at one of these…

Corsair RM650, RM Series, 80 Plus Gold Certified, 650 W Fully Modular ATX Power Supply

Unless anyone has any better suggestions?

 

[AntonyLovric]

No. An SSD is SUPPOSED TO USE +5V. That's typical of logic boards. So, for an HDD, it is using +12V and just the I/O is using +5V and that's why the +5V load is much lower.

But I see this all of the time with stupid stuff like RGB. People put a bunch of lighting strips that use +5V in their PC and all of the sudden their PSU fan spins up.

I really wish PSU voltages would go up and not down, but c'est la vie.

You don't even really need a spectacular PSU. You just need to go from a Yugo crashed in a ditch to at least a Hyundai with half a tank of gas.

What do you have against Yugos?

RE: RM - those look good, the review from Tom's hardware: Corsair RM650 Power Supply Review: Silent and Efficient - Tom's Hardware | Tom's Hardware (tomshardware.com)

...mentions that the RM650x had better caps and fan but I'm sure both are way better than a Hyundai.

 

[jonnyguru]

...mentions that the RM650x had better caps and fan

Japanese capacitors don't necessarily mean better capacitors. And only the fan bearing in the RMx is better. The one in the RM is actually quieter.

 

[AntonyLovric]

Japanese capacitors don't necessarily mean better capacitors. And only the fan bearing in the RMx is better. The one in the RM is actually quieter.

I was just paraphrasing the article. Personally, I'm a fan of crappy capacitors, it's how I've picked up three (3) of my last four (4) monitors (and a couple PSUs). (Samsung/Acer/LG/Antec - all units that wouldn't power on). Recapped with Nichion / Rubycon and they're good to go. BTW, the first one I did (Samsung) was three years old when I recapped it, seven years ago and it's still working now.