Stumped, cant get system to Post! (all green LED)

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ohiou_grad_06

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You know, it could be MSI might just be having a bad run of boards too. I had to RMA an MSI board a couple of weeks ago due to failure of all the IDE channels, tigerdirect sent me a biostar for free, now all is well:)
 

bcboy

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Oct 26, 2007
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That's not what he mentioned. He mentioned 2x4-pin CPU plugs, NOT graphics.


What piece of crap PSU did you get? I don't know how yours looks, but with mine, there is NO chance that the SLI power connector would fit in my CPU power plug, no matter how hard I try, unless I cut the SLI connector off and rewired a CPU connector in it's place. They're completely different shapes, y'know.
 

Endersun

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I think what I'm going to do is just buy another motherboard and sell the new one I get from the manufacturer on Ebay.

for two reasons...

If MSI doesn't send my new board back within two weeks of getting it, I lost my 30 day return policies on my bundle of everything I bought for my computer, thats a lot of merchandise, and also I don't really trust this board anymore the way its acting.

And also I'm impatient ):

Gonna browse the SLI motherboards the next couple of days and think this over, theres so many boards that fit the standards of what I'm looking for.
 
At the risk of sounding silly, is it possible the lack of beeps is because the speaker is not hooked up properly? Is there a piezo on this mobo? It does sound odd that diagnostic LEDs would show good and there would be no beeps.

If I were getting a new mobo though, I'd choose Gigabyte or Biostar.
 

Endersun

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At the risk of sounding silly, is it possible the lack of beeps is because the speaker is not hooked up properly? Is there a piezo on this mobo? It does sound odd that diagnostic LEDs would show good and there would be no beeps.

the beeps don't come out of the speakers, they come out of the MB itself.


I do have my eye on that line of ASUS boards... I'm thinking

ASUS P5N-E SLI LGA 775 NVIDIA nForce 650i SLI ATX Intel

it seems like the plus your paying a lot extra for the PCIEx1 sound card, not sure though, theres so many boards that fit my requirements.

all I basically need is:
DDR2800 standard
SLI compatable
takes 1333 FSB C2D

I also want it at an affordable price, but I know ill be spending over 100$ USD.

 

bcboy

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Asus makes one fine board. But a good board will cost more. Just like anything else.

You're not paying extra for just a sound card. The P5N32E-SLI Plus board that I mentioned, which cost me $225+tax (yeah its not cheap), should have been named "Overclocking for Dummies". Seriously, you can use Asus' software (ie in windows) to set your BIOS to give you 120% overclock (from 1333fsb to 1600) without knowing a thing about overclocking. Just two or three clicks, a restart, and instant goodness. It also includes automatic BIOS recovery, so if your computer crashes due to overclocking, the BIOS will know when you restart, and reset itself to normal.

After you have your oc just the way you want it, the BIOS has two 'save slots' that you can use to save your settings. I suspect these settings would be erased in the event of battery failure, or CMOS reset, but I myself have made the BIOS recovery activate, and used the 'save slot' to load the last stable overclock.

As if that wasn't enough, this board also comes with another nice feature for those that aren't so dead set on getting that last Hertz from thier setup. AI N.O.S. This nifty addition to the BIOS will enable your computer to overclock up to 110% based on system activity. With this enabled, my 2.33GHz E6550 ran at 2.0GHz at idle and 2.5GHz under load (I had set it for 108%).

Plus, you get a nice 8-channel, multi-streaming high-definition sound card...

NOTE: Under NO circumstances should you attempt to overclock a computer if you don't know what you are doing. There is a risk of destroying your computer, but that risk is minimalized if you understand the 'proper' way to do it. The features on this board make overclocking simpler, but not necessarily foolproof. ALWAYS watch your temperatures when overclocking.

:sol:
 

RonnieTheBear

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Feb 13, 2008
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Hi guys, first post here.

I'm bumping this old thread because i'm running into a very similar problem that Endersun described with his system. The only difference being is that it's happening on my rig that i've had for 4 years, instead of a newly assembled machine.

My system was working fine, allbeit a little slow, and then while i was using it locked up, and the MB emitted a beep every few seconds. I turned it off, waited a few minutes, went to turn it back on, and it wouldn't post. My D-Bracket indicates 4 green lights all the time (even when i removed my memory), and the rest of the system appears to power up (fans go, hard disks spin up, cd rom drives will open/close), but i get no video signal and no beep.

I've tried:
-clearing the CMOS (both with the jumper and battery removal)
-reseating the memory
-reseating the CPU
-reseating the video card
-running it with no video card
-running it with no memory

and nothing. the only other thing i noticed is that the fan for my northbridge chip isn't running at all, and when i removed it from the heatsink to rotate it manually, it felt really stiff (as opposed to freely rotating), but i'm not sure if that's normal for such a small fan. Is it possible i fried the NB chip at some point? would that cause the system to not post?

any help at all you guys could give me would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.
 

Dekansnowman1

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I personaly think its a ram problem. i just got done troubleshooting a friends computer, his wouldnt post for nothing did everything in the book except take out the ram and left one and boom it posted i was like how !@#$%^&&# but ya.. had a bad mem stick
 

RonnieTheBear

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I just tried running it with one stick (and then the other) and no change. if it was the ram, wouldn't the board at least give me a error with beeps when i tried to run it without any mem at all? i'm leaning towards the board being fried :-/
 

RonnieTheBear

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yeah just to clarify on the NB fan, it will turn without too much resistance if i push one of the blades with a screwdriver, etc, but it won't continue to rotate after i stop like a cpu fan or case fan will.
 



Agreed. Get a better motherboard from Gigabyte or ASUS or even Abit (their IP35 Pro is good, i hear, I personally only use Gigabyte or ASUS). I have yet to have an ASUS or a Gigabyte motherboard die on me.
 

RonnieTheBear

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Well that's the plan eventually, i'm going to build myself a nice new system after i graduate from college in may, but until then i'd like to be able to salvage this thing for minimal cost! anyone have any ideas?

I've also:
tried the mem in the different slots
checked the back of the mobo to see if a loose screw or something was shorting it to the case.

I have a spare power supply that i can test it with this weekend, but not till then...
 

johnnyq1233

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Here's another stupid question but no mention of in this thread.
Is the pice power plugged in?
I did read where you tried an old 250 watt PSU, but the first thing that clicked with me is that old 250 watters never had the 6-pin pcie connectors....

Just thought I'ld ask and sorry if it sounds too trivial.

Ronnie...If that fan don't freely spin then chances are the north bridge went south.(sorry for the pun...)
It's generally a good idea to check the "freeness" fans rotate when doing a routine clean about every 6 months or so.
 

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