System Builder Marathon: Day Two

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2) Overall a solid build. Definitely would choose a different PSU though. Some things (HSF, case) are obviously subjective to person preference, so can't knock those choices. But great selection on components in general (except PSU, just my opinion though LOL)
I agree here, PC Power & Cooling Silencer is the best, can't mistake that. 610 EPS12V with 49A on the 12v Single Rail for $155 is a great choice, and the warranty is real, they fix it. They test and brand their supplies @ 50°C too.

1) Typical overclocking done on each system (though if they were going to OC, I think the 4300 might have been mandatory) to see how much performance a typical person could get out of each system across the different apps.

2) A comparison to slightly older systems. I know there are a ton of us out there that still have S939 single or dual core procs and good but aging gpus. I'd love to see some numbers concerning the improvement one could expect with each of these systems. (yea, this one might be a little to personalized for the series.)

. . .

Budget built would have a 3800+ or 4300 (many would OC both though), a cheap but decent mobo (Biostar 550, DS/S 3, and the MSI come to mind), and the graphics would, I think depend more on exactly what a person's budget is.

For midrange, I think most people would still choose the 6600 and if they could afford it, the 8800gts.
DFI Infinity II M2 SLI is only $90 right now, free shipping too, if the urge for AM2 overclocking or budget builds comes to mind. Just makes a budget build better. The 4600+ is the best price/performance out there right now, not to mention the 12x multiplier lets you hit 3Ghz @ 250 on the FSB and maintain the RAM at full-speed. I had a 3Ghz San Diego 939 Single Core for the last 6 months until I sold it recently, I was really left out of all the goings-on in the benchmarked world, especially with concern to the 8800 series cards and any overclocking discussion. The sad thing is that I did this on the bundled cooler and the PSU that came with my $35 case, and it was rock-freaking-solid at that clock, for $80 it was a lot of processor, now it is only $62.


My point was "most".

The number of people using 1680x1050 and such resolutions is well below 50%.

Your WoW issue is most likely RAM or CPU related not graphics.
I've run WoW on a 5900Ultra w/o issues.

If you are running in Windowed Mode, try w/o Windowed mode.
This seemed to help me alot on my one system until I upgraded my RAM.

I realize WoW can be run on really low end systems, and I concede there COULD be a bottleneck elsewhere. I recently increased from 1gb to 2gb of DDR RAM without a noticeable improvement besides load screens, so the last likely culprit is my A643200+ 939 processor. I know it's not much of a processor, but I'd be surprised if WoW was significantly impacted by it (rather than the video card). I even upgraded my power supply to a 550w modular unit to ensure that was'nt the issue in power delivery to the video card. Video drivers are the latest catalyst.

1680x1050 is a lot of resolution. I would love to hear from someone with a similar PC to mine, but a recent tom's article (sorry I don't recall the title) seemed to suggest to me that my A643200 would be a minimal bottleneck for this video card. Most benchmarks are based on a solo player with only CPU enemies running around, multiplayer is a lot more demanding (also with Ventrilo running in the background).

I'll investigate "windowed mode". I'm just running whatever mode is default currently AFAIK. I thought windowed mode referred to running the game in a smaller window than full screen? I would think that would make it run a lot faster if anything...Modular PSU isn't a good thing, neither is split rails, especially at 550w, but it should work anyway, despite being a bad idea in theory.

Your CPU is definitely limiting you. Get a $62 San Diego 1MB lvl2 Cache 4000+ and a Zalman 7000B Cu/Alu for $30, I had this setup running @3Ghz for the last 6 months and it was fast. Vista even gave me a 4.5 for the processor :). Gaming was insanely good. The Dual-Core s939 are on sell-out at Newegg, I was really debating whether to pick one up. On eBay there is a dual core 3800+ 939 out for $77 and $8 shipping: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280111081537&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D280111081537%26fvi%3D1

Windowed mode is worse because the video card is forced to keep a large chunk of memory dedicated to the desktop, instead of allowing it to be cached away. I wouldn't do less than an overclocked 7900/7950 (NOT dual card, just the single 7950), 550-600mhz for the core OC seems good 512MB of ram is best, these are available for ~$150 if you watch ebay, ~$130 for the 256MB versions.

In fact, nevermind, you are running AGP still, switch to something different, sell your card and you should have enough scratch to get a dual-core AM2 2.4Ghz 4600+ and that DFI Infinity II Ultra/SLI I mention above, AGP cards/systems cost a lot more than a solid PCI-E setup, especially now that there is a lot of nice DDR2-800 for $100-150 in 2x 1GB kits.

That AM2 is the 65w version btw.


@ Cleeve:

So, you will take a minimum system and chuck a GTX at it?

Logic behind this (besides the "cpu-limited" argument)?

Maybe $40 is better spent on the processor and then use a 8800GTS 320MB to make it a mid-range system for $XXX less than your "mid-range" system?? AKA a $715 system?? I know you are just trying a little experiment with what you have around, but I can't understand how comparing a bottom-rung system with a graphics card of almost equal cost to the entire remainder of the system will help anyone but those silly enough to buy/build such a system. And then you will hand down your usual "this doesn't work" conclusion, prompting all the Intel Fanboys to continue with renewed zeal in the forums spouting that the AMD budget solutions are indeed worthless. (I am planning a 4600+ overclock on my DFI board when it comes Friday, so we will see how crap it really is for clocking, maybe my 3Ghz San Diego is a better clocker than the standard AMD)

(Edit: WTF: http://www.tomshardware.com/2006/11/29/geforce_8800_needs_the_fastest_cpu/page3.html, I recall reading this, an FX-60 was used. My $62 3Ghz San Diego could have easily helped out there, why do only the Intel setups get overclocked? Not to mention that nobody, NOBODY in their right mind would force a GTX into an older system, yet a lot of us would like to know what we would get from an 8800GTS 320MB on our slightly aged 3Ghz (or otherwise) K8 systems. We really, really need a best price/performance series and most depreciated Hardware at-the-moment update, like we have going for the Video cards, I like that series, provides useful information.)

Maybe 3 installments is OK, but perhaps a tighter range could be produced for everyone's respective wallets if you grabbed the actual best value/most depreciated parts and threw them on for each step, instead of a cursory dismissal of them for your own personal reasons. Perhaps I just can't relate to your way of thinking, as I seem to be taken aback daily by your articles.

For example a jump to a low-end $150 7900 series and $20-40 jump to the 4200+ or 4600+ (Making the total system cost 575 with the 4200+ and 595 with the 4600+) would make a real budget system, for $70 the system will perform much better for only 13% more money the performance is much higher than 13% (totally specious reasoning here, but you haven't provided the facts to disprove me, so we will never know 😛). Also the system would have a longer useful life without buying parts too far depreciated in value for the long term, always buy the best price/performance, or regret it later. You can't unload the 3800+ to upgrade, but you can use the 4600+ for only $40 more. If it was a real budget system, use a single-core. Put the difference into $80-100 for 2GB of Dual Channel DDR2-800, only $10-30 more than your 1GB, that is really going to help the overall performance of the system.

I know you are just doing your business, perhaps my questions/comments/suggestions are more geared toward a best price/performance analysis.

On rechecking I see that you chose a pretty good budget build, the only thing I did better was to find a $120 7900GS, luck out on a $5 Zalman NIB at the second-hand store and clock it to 650mhz core with a voltmod, thoroughly trouncing all the 8600 series and putting myself out of range for an upgrade until I can afford the 8800 320, there is really nothing from the $150-$270 price range that is worth buying unless you run super high-res.

I also traded on the power-supply and case, the PSU is a 470 PC Power Silencer ($100) and the case is a super-cheapo($20), I plan to handle it with kid gloves and maybe upgrade to Cooler-Master or Lian-Li as budget permits (this is the only area where you can skimp to the bottom and retain all your performance :)).

The DFI SLI I only chose because it was actually $4 more than the Ultra because of free shipping. They are the same board if you want to solder or conductive pen the "SLI functionality" back onto the Northbridge by closing 2 contacts, but I figured it was smarter to just buy the real SLI for $4.

I am still not convinced of Dual-Core viability or necessity just yet for the gamer, I would have gone Core2 Solo if such a product had existed, just for the pure overclockability of the system and the pure gaming (and single threaded application) performance it would have afforded me. But Intel is too smart for me, they knew that the gaming benchmarks would show the Dual-Core to be unneeded by 95% of the games/gamers out there, and thus would be losing the price difference to all the gamers who knew better. Besides the thermal envelope of one core would have allowed even better clocks and price/performance and would seriously put the dual-core market at risk.

Well, same old Intel story, pushing tech we don't really need onto the market, at least dual-core is useful outside of gaming, unlike HT and Netburst and Rambus.
 
Motherboard: Not sure what it is about TG and MSI. Since no sound card was used, I think the superior onboard sound of both Intel and Gigabyte boards make them better choices than the MSI. The MSI P965 Platinum is aimed at the budget market, and really isn't a good match for the rest of the components selected IMO. Again, this seems like a gaming choice much more than an all purpose board. No E-SATA??

Why use the MSI board? Uh, gee, because it performs better? Wait, let me guess, you wanted more features and less performance in your mid-priced build, right?
 
I read the first page of Yesturdays article and ran across a discrepancy in your figures. The FSP AX-450 450W PSU's total +12v amperage is not 36A. The total combined amperage of the +12v rails is not the sum of the 2 rails. Each 18A rating is the max that rail can sustain without failing but the unit is not able to supply more then 29A. As you can see on the label there is a max of 348W going to the +12v rails. So using the formula of E*I=P we find that the unit can only offer a max of 29A.

Now I agree the unit can handle a basic system with an 8800GTX but I would not want to put that much strain on the PSU. That's just my opinion.

We both know it is not a PC Power & Cooling PSU...it was just the highest claimed wattage output for the price.
At least they did not use an Elite!

Silverstone is my only 2nd tier PSU if the cusomer won't pay a few extra $ for a real PSU.

I perfer Coolermaster cases for overall airflow,PC Power & Cooling for a "real" PSU,DFI MB's,Themalright CPC/GPU/MD HS's,Silverstone FM-121's for fans.
CPU and RAM per customer....most go with AMD and G.Skill/Patriate.
 
Silverstone is my only 2nd tier PSU if the cusomer won't pay a few extra $ for a real PSU.

LOL, FSP are real PSU's. Probably better than most of the "good" brands you can think of.

I said Silverstone is my only 2nd tier opyion when I build for people.
As good as Silverstone is they are NOT as good as a PC Power & Cooling PSU.

Seach the web for yourself (no leads from me or others) and you will find a few "outside of company" tests that show PSU's under FULL load and temp rateings....NOTHING provides cleaner/regulated power than PC Power & Cooling on a SCOPE and only Silverstone comes close.

A PC Power & Cooling 510-ASL provides more/cleaner power than an OCZ 600-700.
A PC Pwr&Cooling Silent 750 ($169 USD dirrect) is the best bang PSU for high end systems and TWO of them in a CM Stacker provide a constant 1,500 Watts of clean power (1,700 surge) for less than the price of a 1KW (call company and ask for a Tech to get the lowered price).
 
Yeh, well this goes back to his day 1 comment, now I can't think of anyone besides you who would put a $100+ power supply in a $500 computer.

Yes you have a piont....and even I would not do so on a $700 USD build.
I would use a lower rated PC P& C unit if I could. Thing is I charge 6 times what all the other shops in Los Angeles do to slap parts together.
I spend a full week fine adjusting settings and often get as much as 200Mhz higher clocks at stock volts and the lowest air cooled temps around (Optrons).

I perfer DFI MB's.

My systems with the exact same MB/CPU/RAM all OC higher and do so on stock volts....becuase of the PSU.

PSU's like RAM of the same power/speed rateings are not all the same.

If you going to build a system (and OC it) the first thing to buy is the PSU and then a case with correct airflow.....3rd is RAM and a close 4th is cooler(s) and fan(s).
All the parts must work together for best results and longest life.

Being in 2-way radio mods for well over 25 years and computers for a bit over 20 years helps me to understand how all the parts come together to get the best bang.

Dealing with high currant draws and heat I can only say that todays trend with modular connections,multi "rails" and built in 120MM fans are NOT anything a person that understands thier week points would want to provide to a customer when it comes to PSU constuction.

If your not into OC'ing then there are many very good PSU's to pick from as long as you know that the caps in them are most likely to fail near the end of the 3 year warrenty.
 
Congratulations, this article got me to quit lurking after all these years...
Keep up the good work.

I am curious about the "low end" system with one out-of-whack component like a 8800 GTX w/ the E6320.

I also wonder about 2 8800GTS 320MB in SLI vs. 1 8800GTX - the cost is roughly the same.

I will cast a vote for adding wide screen resolutions in the video benchmarks even though they can be approximated from similar 4:3 resolutions.

I am currently working on a system upgrade, and am debating the tradeoff between a lower end CPU and MB w/ an 8800GTX or a better CPU and MB and a 320MB 8800GTS. The most demanding applications I run are games: NWN2 and Oblivion currently. I am looking for 3 years of acceptable performance out of this upgrade (hopefully). I figure the GTX configuration will be better unless it is CPU bound, but if 2 GTS in SLI perform similar to the GTX then that would push me towards the GTS configuration w/ a future upgrade.

According to the VGA charts, the 2 GTS seem to outperform the single GTX. Does anyone have any practical experience with this configuration? I have heard that SLI is a PITA compared to a single card. Is this still true?

To the person looking for the Sony-NEC Optiarc, here it is on newegg:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16827152079
 
Agree with the comments on PSUs and wondered what you were saying about RAM. How do you rate the different brands and do you go with the slower RAM theory.
 
Well the world as you know it is about to change. AMD now has shown (May 9th,Califonia,USA) Native Quad core CPU's on a 45nm build with 16% power savings and higher work-per-clock than any other CPU running at same same clock speed.

Google todays news.

As for my self and those I build for about 1 year after they hit market is the good time to buy and OC.

Hell my 1 yr old Optron 146 w/50% OC and 7900GT will run anything for years to come.

Buy the time software (Games for me and most people here) needs more than 1 core these will be a bargain even if the are "old news" in 3-5 years.

Yes I said 3-5 years...game makers are NOT going to make DX-10 or multi-core games when most of the customes do not have hardware to support it.

One software company has alread said it will NOT be making any DX-10 games (Chrome engine games).

It is the same thing for games/programs running in 64 bit mode....it is not time yet.

But that time does come closer....just not this or next year (again).
 
Agree with the comments on PSUs and wondered what you were saying about RAM. How do you rate the different brands and do you go with the slower RAM theory.

You need to do it on a "per build" as the specs are ever changing and the prices/"able to even buy" change the most with good RAM.

Just follow Neweggs ram offerings as a basic guide.

Over the most adverted ram I have found that G.Skill is one of the best RAM stick sources with Patriot (spelling,I am 72 and need sleep) runing very close overall.

Back in the AMD XP days I only used Antec,Asus and Corsair....not any longer.
In fact I will not use Antec or Asus at all due to poor cap life.
 
Motherboard: Not sure what it is about TG and MSI. Since no sound card was used, I think the superior onboard sound of both Intel and Gigabyte boards make them better choices than the MSI. The MSI P965 Platinum is aimed at the budget market, and really isn't a good match for the rest of the components selected IMO. Again, this seems like a gaming choice much more than an all purpose board. No E-SATA??

Why use the MSI board? Uh, gee, because it performs better? Wait, let me guess, you wanted more features and less performance in your mid-priced build, right?

Wait, let me guess, you've used this particular motherboard and love it.

Actually, I wanted roughly the same performance (any 965P is similar in performance) and more features in a upper-mid range system, which would more closely match the rest of this system (with the exception of the cheap CPU cooler). My experience with MSI is that while they come out of the gate fast, they don't last. Count yourself lucky if it makes it to the end of the 12 month warranty. Our preferred boards have the same performance, much more features, and have yet to see one die. Even MSI's website says this motherboard is aimed at the "budget minded". Its not really a true mid range board IMO.

2 things I don't think you skimp on are PSU and motherboard. I don't think a $180USD or so motherboard is too much to ask for a mid range system, since the high end board will probablay be an Asus Striker for $320.
 
Agree with the comments on PSUs and wondered what you were saying about RAM. How do you rate the different brands and do you go with the slower RAM theory.

You need to do it on a "per build" as the specs are ever changing and the prices/"able to even buy" change the most with good RAM.

Just follow Neweggs ram offerings as a basic guide.

Over the most adverted ram I have found that G.Skill is one of the best RAM stick sources with Patriot (spelling,I am 72 and need sleep) runing very close overall.

Back in the AMD XP days I only used Antec,Asus and Corsair....not any longer.
In fact I will not use Antec or Asus at all due to poor cap life.

and do you go with the slower RAM theory

In the Optron 146/150 builds I find that the DDR1 G.Skill 4000HZ ram run OC'ed with a 1:1 CPU ratio gives up to 1,000+ points higher Read/Write/Copy than a core 2 with DDR2-800.
Everest is the memory benchmark for this.

DDR1 does have only half the buss of DDR2....but DDR2-800's stock settings are put to shame with the combo of G.Skll 4000HZ and my CPU settings (DDR1-520 3.4.4.8 T1 43ns).
This by the way is THIS computers settings not the week long settup I do for those who pay me.

I can post Everest RAM tests vs Core 2 @ DDR-800 if anyone PM's me so I remember to do so.

The Optron 146 out preforms the 6600 w/DDR2-8000 (in ram tests) with the ram I use due to the dirrict connect of CPU/RAM and the rams much lower latency....at stock times and just a 10Mhz OC.

This ram has been often OC'd to 280Mhz (DDR1-560) but this machine has it set at 260Mhz,stock times and volts.

Now notice that newer DDR2 ram/CPU combo's will soon outpace the currant advantage I can build on a older system....but they will cost many times the amount of money this system costs.
A few weeks ago the CPU (146) was $69 USD,this week it came up to $79 USD boxed.
AMD no longer makes it...and G.Skill I don't think any longer makes the ram I used the past year.
 
The mid-range system should not be comprised of solely mid-range priced components.

The longevity of a system is dictated by the future-proofness of the system.

MOBO has to be top of the list. Screw the 8800GT out the window. 680i chipset so that when you get more money you can really milk the graphics, and mem frequency for the QUAD ability in generations to come.

CPU is good. RAM is good, but personally i would choose a 4x 512Mb set dual dual channel. Having more smaller units operating synchronously is faster than 2 big units operating synchronously. This leaves the ooption for 4x 1Gb or an opulent 4x2Gb for high end pc.

PSU whatever. Heatsink O.K. Case, not worth spending on as it does NOT effect the performance. It was stated that only performance affecting things hold value for this test, so WHY THE EXP.CASE.

Hard disks should be RAID 0 74Gb raptors, with one or 2 large capacity (if 2 RAID 0 again) slower drives. In High-end should have Raid 0+1 150 Gb raptors and HUGE (Tb) RAID 0 storage array

I thought Toms hardware had some moves, but choosing all the components from mid range, instead of mixing important parts of high end, and less important of low end to acheive a mid-range beaster, is an oversight and misleads buyers into regrettable decisions.
 
It's just that you want a more expensive board and a cheaper processor. This goes against bang for the buck.

I own the P5B Deluxe WiFi-AP 😛 And a few other boards.

I don't see the point in building a mid range system with a budget motherboard, as that's probably the most important component. Its a fast gaming board, but has no frills for the average computer user, and every MSI board that we've ever used had reliability problems.

Bang for the buck, I think the E6420 is a much better bargain than the E6600. The E6600 is still on the high side price wise. With the stock cooler, the E6420 will clock past an E6600 easily, has the same cache, and requires less power (for anyone that cares about power consumption, not that I do). In fact, I believe the E6420 will overclock to the same GHz as the E6600, and costs less.

I'm pretty much in agreement with Americanbrian, that the components should be better for motherboard and RAM, except I think the 965P is as good a choice as the 680i for longevity. The Raptors are noisy and no longer the best option for hard drives (depending upon your usage). Check out TG's hard drive charts to see what hard drives will best match your usage.
 
Motherboard: Not sure what it is about TG and MSI. Since no sound card was used, I think the superior onboard sound of both Intel and Gigabyte boards make them better choices than the MSI. The MSI P965 Platinum is aimed at the budget market, and really isn't a good match for the rest of the components selected IMO. Again, this seems like a gaming choice much more than an all purpose board. No E-SATA??

Why use the MSI board? Uh, gee, because it performs better? Wait, let me guess, you wanted more features and less performance in your mid-priced build, right?
Today's article wasn't as good as yesterday's. A few problems:

1) you got an aftermarket cooler but got a motherboard that can't OC. So why did you spend money on nothing when the stock cooler works great at stock speeds? (and don't tell me because of noise, because the stock cooler is below the system noise floor of just about any quiet PSU)

2) you mentioned the E6600 is the cheapest C2D with 4MB cache. You're embarassing yourselves again, THG. The 6320 and 6420 have been out for weeks now.

3) you got DDR2 800 memory for an E6600. That's a complete waste, since using a memory multi to run the mem at DDR2 800 speed makes almost no impact on performance on a C2D (unlike on an AMD X2). And don't tell me you're overclocking -- the E6600 has a 9x multi, so you don't need DDR2 800 to OC unless you're OC'ing to 3.6GHz. But wait -- you got an MSI motherboard that can't OC! and you got a low-end cooler that'll never take an E6600 to 3.6GHz anyway.

4) that PSU can't compare on the 12V rails to a decent 500W PSU like the Corsair HX520. Why'd you pick it? It's shiny?

So what exactly were you thinking?
 
How's this sound: looking for a balance, pushing toward gaming
e6600 225
DS-3 130
quad 750W 200
8800gts 320 300
cooler 60
320b 80
2gb 130
dvd 30
case 45
total $ 1200


forgot the cooler- duh
 
actually, it looks like I wasted a lot of time playing on messed up game video settings for no reason. I bumped up the resolution again and was playing with other settings, and somehow after restarting the game I managed to bring it to its knees getting around 1fps!!! It was not in windowed mode.

per another recommendation here, I looked in the BIOS and turned off AGP fast writes. Then I launched WoW, I clicked the "default settings" button. What do you know?? I could not figure out what settings changed from what I had input, but suddenly the game's hitting 70+fps! god it looks good at this resolution, so glad I bought this monitor.

thanks to the person recommending a replacement dual core proc for me, but there's probably no point since I'll be gone in a few months from home for almost a year. Still, it WOULD be nice. :) this video card absolutely chews HL2 and WoW for breakfast on full settings and high res. good enough for me!

To all those who are criticizing a cheap motherboard, I have been reading forum posts along these lines for years and have never been swayed to that opinion in the slightest. I have ALWAYS bought the cheapest motherboard I could from a reputable brand name (generally Asus) with the features I NEED. I admit, most recently I was let down because my mobo only had 2 SATA ports and I now have 3 hard drives so I had to add a controller card. However, that was 1.5 years after I bought the socket 939 mobo so I am glad I deferred the difference in cost for the controller card for so long before paying what I would have for a high end mobo back in the day.

a motherboard is just a big piece of electronics to hook everything up to eachother. why would you spend $200-300 for something that's basically a big card with slots to plug (the important) stuff into? Have you seen benchmarks for performance differences between cheap and high end motherboards? Not many, because it's obviously a pointlessly tiny difference.

edit: what's with the trend lately for raid 0 on gaming systems? MAYBE there would be some tangible improvements in how fast the game loads and windows loads, but that won't give you any FPS. And you're introducing a LOT more potential for failure. Raid 1 I get, but the unimportant raid0 benefits are FAR outweighed by the fact that if EITHER of two hard drives dies, you lose your OS and have to reload.

I'm also surprised at how little HD capacity people plan for. I've got around 600gb of data and I've limited myself lately. None of it is even backed up yet! I am planning a 750gb/1tb hard drive in the next month or two just to back up the data I've already got.
 
How's this sound: looking for a balance, pushing toward gaming
e6600 225
DS-3 130
quad 750W 200
8800gts 320 300
cooler 60
320b 80
2gb 130
dvd 30
case 45
total $ 1200
Total PSU overkill. Get the FSP 450watt from yesterday's budget build.
 
All of the products in that particular article can be found at Newegg. Finding them on Pricegrabber might require a different search word.

Ah. I found it. I'm retarded. Thank you. The one place I always look first I didn't even think to look this time.
 
I thought Toms hardware had some moves, but... ...is an oversight and misleads buyers into regrettable decisions.

...which is your opinion, and you're entitled to it. However, because it's your opinion doersn't make it God's Honest Truth. It doesn't make my opinion right, either.

I disagree with you, for one. Others will, too, others will disagree with me, others will agree with you or have a completely different idea. Really, it's inevitable... once you label something as 'mid-ranged', all sorts of people get their backs up. But it can't be helped, it's quite subjective really.

Sorry the article didn't do it for you, but hey - different strokes for different folks. Sounds like you have a pretty solid idea of what you like anyway. :)