Archived from groups: rec.games.pinball (
More info?)
Esch:
It is the responsibility of the Bally MPU board to NOT allow this to occur.
A shorted switch at the pop bumper should not allow
a bally pin to hold in the coil. Ie: on bally of that generation holding
down a switch should not cause a stuck ON solenoid.
Probable causes are:
Bad driver transistor on solenoid board.
Bad MPU: (try swapping U10 with U11 PIA's and see if something changes).
Also Verify continuity of the solenoid control signals from MPU J4 to
Solenoid driver J4.
Verify with Flashlight that connector shell pins look good on MPU J4.
Verify with magnifier that there are no cracks in solder on solenoid driver
J4 on solder side.
Since you claim you've swapped driver boards I'll "assume" your driver board
itself is not the problem.
(I'd feel better if you said it was from working game?? and thus known good!
and that both solenoid boards work
in that game.) Note: Untill you've done that and verified the solenoid
board in a game or test jig is actually working
you have not totally ruled out the driver transistor. (could be both boards
have a bad one).
Regards, Dallas...
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<eschenbach@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:1125196177.190782.327400@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I need some help from this great group. I have a Bally Power Play that
> has a pop bumper coil that stays energized from start-up. The coil and
> diode are new. I changed out the solenoid driver board with a spare
> that I had and saw no change. I assume that eliminates the driver
> transistor as the problem. I clipped the capacitor across the pop
> bumper's switch and it still stays energized. I'm not sure what to try
> next. If I unhook that coil completely , the game functions normally.
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Esch
>